Driverless UV LED COB
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- Опубликовано: 15 окт 2024
- How to install a driverless LED COB to a heatsink with fan. This is part of a project to build a UV exposure light for alternative printing process for carbon transfer and platinum palladium prints. It can also be used for other processes such as cyanotypes, salt prints, and other alternative printing.
Hey, you did the assembly very cleanly, I'm starting to build too
thank you for the tips Best regards from Poland
Thanks, Andrio32! Good luck!
I found that warming up the COBs in a toaster oven made soldering leads on much easier.
Thanks for the tip, Josh! I'll try that next time.
@@DennisRamos You can use thermal epoxy if you dont want to drill holes in to heatsink or waterblock.
Yeah, thanks. But how will I get the top LED Chip of the cooler again when day Stick on it with thermal epoxy pls?
I'm afraid those may be "full spectrum" COBs, consisting of 445nm diodes covered with a red phosphor in silicone. They are marketed as plant growth lights. I have built several 380nm UV-a fixtures, and the chips had no phosphor and were only available in DC driven arrays. I write this as of June 2019, so you have probably already discovered this.
Yes, those were full spectrum grow lights which the seller told me were 360-420nm. I didn't know at that time and I have changed it to 365-370nm cob leds. The process of building it were the same for my alternative printing. Thanks, Davido!
So are these no good for growing?
@@brandonkruger9040 I've used them and still use them mixed with the warm white version, 6 of each on 1/4" aluminum plate. It works for 2-4 average plants. It draws about 700w full on, and I'm pretty sure 700w through samsung or equivalent diodes would yeild much more light output. When I built that light, these were really cheap so the lower efficiency was not a huge deal. Now you can get a couple mars hydro or something similar pretty cheap.
They are the worst growing led ever, juste test the PAR output with the PHOTONE app, pure BS , and they are not full spectrum at all
@@brandonkruger9040 No they are terrible grow lights
Can those be attached to a dimmer/potentiometer? Not sure since there won't be a driver.
does it has phosphor layer on it?
is this harmful without glasses?
Hi nice work!...what about 100hz flickering? I already make my own and i can notice that, and also have some concerns about the effects on my tomatoes...
How have the lights performed.. 2 years later?
Thanks. How will you get the LED cop Chip of the Cola if it is not fix with screws but with sticky heat leading paste pls?
How do you insulate the two soldier points after they have dangerous current of 230 Volts pls?
...I See, U use capton band (adhesive).
Will try and get it in Ali.
Before I had bildup these lamps with external drivers, but they break Berry quickly at least with seventy Watts cop LED Chips.
Hi .if you dont use the fan and alluminium Dissipator the light will work same?
It will work for maybe a few minutes but eventually burn out due to excessive heat.
Hi, to connect more LEDs do you recommend to put them in series or in parallel?
I always connect LEDs or any other lighting in parallel. When one goes out, others remains powered. I don’t see any advantage using series in this scenario.
Hello would you have quoted the web to give me to buy the spare parts that you used ?
Can you please share links to the suppliers of the heat sink kit and the COB?
How much of watt Led COB and temperature after complete?
Dosnt the glass block most of the uv ?
Most ordinary glass blocks uv due to iron content. The glass lens I’m using is made of borosilicate glass that can transmit UV wavelengths down to, I think 200nm.
@@DennisRamos ty for the info i did not know that
Nice video btw
...grow-light LEDs - your indoor plantation must be pretty huge :o
hi dennis, i am just planning to mount this kind of light for alt processes. it is necessary to add a collimator lens?. approximately how long the exposure worked for you? For your process choice.
Is 50w enough for 30x40cm?
Pablo Javier M. Hey Pablo! The lens is to concentrate the light on the media to maximize UV exposure. It’s optional but can gain more advantage for your alt processes. The exposure time is varies for every processes including many other parameters for each alt process so it’s very necessary to do multiple tests such as test strips or Stouffers step wedge to determine exposure times. Lastly, 50W should work with a bit longer exposure time as compared to 100W. The distance also matters as more UV is absorbed (and faster exposure) the closer it is to the sensitized media. Thanks for visiting, Pablo. Good luck!
@@DennisRamos Thanks Dennis! I prints in argyrotype, salt prints and now playing with carbon transfer; i have a modified graphic printer with 7x40w actinic uv tubes and can print argyrotypes in 12 min (similar to Kallitype times). I was wandering if this light source, can provide similar exposure times, bearing in mind the compromise between distance and effective light amount over plane.
Playing with basic trigonometry (with 120 degrees) it would be possible to cover a 50cm circle over a plane with only 15 cm of heigh!!
If this configuration could achieve similar times wolud be really great!
I really dont understand why these are even on the market they are 99% inefficient
and by the time you add a heatsink they are no longer the small compact light source you bought but almost the size of a PIR security light, transformers have almost been fazed out and they where more efficient, maybe someone could tell me the benefit of these heaters?
They work.. indont use the purple.. but I grow 5 plants at a time on 3 50w cob leds. With the heat sinks installed they are efficient enough
What are you using as an AC input for the UV light? And what voltage is the UV light rated at?
It's driverless so it's direct to 110V AC source. The IC driver is actually integrated to the COB itself. It's a smart IC driver so the voltage is either 110 or 220.
@@DennisRamos its interesing, because all of cob led projects i have seen needed driver so whats the diffrence between theese diodes (quality etc)?Why so many people use drivers for diodes and spend their money?
@@jjooijjjoo1075 These are newer cob leds that manufacturers make that integrates the drivers and the leds. These leds would need heatsinks and fans making it bulky.
@@DennisRamos of course but i havent seen any relations of grow. Which diodes would you recommend to use?
what is the size of the dril you use?
What kind of connector is that for wiring the fan??
Deez Nuts Hi Deez Nuts! I believe this is the adapter you’re asking about: www.amazon.com/dp/B01IBFNQP6/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_awdb_t1_w2nKDbRXXSE9R ..Thanks for watching!
From where did you bay heat sink with za fan?
Hi borsegoran! I bought it from eBay. You can also buy it from Alibaba if you’re buying it by bulk. Thanks!
Does anyone know how to find the light amplifiers you use on this video? aliexpress or something?
Hi,Sir, I have the source for you. If you are interested,please contact me
What is the input voltage of the LED COB?
Since this COB has Smart IC , the input voltage is 110
Muito bom!
Algorithm brought me back.
1ka pires ketana
It does not generate a lot of heat "because it is driverless", it generates a lot of heat because it is a high power led, with around 60-70 percent efficiency. So where does the rest of the energy go? Heat, the thing that your soldering gun doesn't produce 😂😂😂 you show it off like it's better while it's obviously working quite badly, get a normal 30W soldering iron and it'll work a lot better, also use flux because it makes the cold solder joints go away and makes your life easier
The on board driver lives at 130c
Using theese not insulated clamps to connect AC is just insane. Their purpose is for 12V charging a battery. No security measures alt all, no respect to high voltage. A big dislike because RUclips followers will copy you without thinking. Whats the use of the Mickey Mouse construction with capton tape ? How should the fan blow air id you put it on the table like this ? OMG what a mess.