Nice informative video for the diy persons. Only thing is at the 100 hrs service your supposed to change out your waterpump impeller which you didn't show or talk about. Some might not know this. But thanks for putting up this part of the service. That helps a lot. It's possible you might have another video showing the impeller but I couldn't find one. Tight lines....
I use to think that oil extractors were ridiculous, but I now do it on my boat, mower and generator, A lot less mess and much more efficient. I take the oil plug out after I suck it out, and I seldom get even a dribble of oil. When I bought the boat the dealer really stressed the importance of changing the big water separator filter very regularly.
Brent.. thanks for posting this video. I, for one, appreciate folks like you that are willing to share their knowledge with the rest of us. For all of you who took shots at this gentleman... how about putting down your keyboard and make a video so that we can sit in awe of your expertise.
And what about thermostat, if you use the boat in the sea you should even make it clean. Then zink anodes, this engine have three button anodes that protect engine block and head.
Hey, nice video. where can I buy the pump you used to suck out the old oil? What is the brand and model of the pump? Looks like you made that your self by just mounting it on top of a 5 gal bucket. Also can you provide a diagram of the switch you add to turn on/off the pump? thanks
Plugs ? Dump old fuel from filter and clean ? gear lube still in case ? Thermostat ? Zink's ? Do not do it like this as it's half ass job! This is why you do it yourself! Man bun is to tight.
Thank heavens this guy don't work on my motors.Besides not inspecting zincs T/Stat he never started the motor to fill the new oil filter and recheck oil level, neither did he flush out the water seperator bowl after removal and he did not change gaskets on the lower unit drain screws neither did he shoot grease into the zerk fittings.Would'nt hurt changing plugs either. Better off doing your own stuff.
I seen the same things, I'm buying a set of 200 suzuki's and my guy told me that he doesn't change the gear oil on the 20 hour service and planned to test the props for speed soon as the motors are on. I said as far as the gear oil and 20 hour service I will do all my own and I don't want him putting the boat in the water at all because before the motor can go to full speed is after 3 hours of break in. Got to learn to do stuff yourself like you say.
So sad to see people doing videos like (This is the 100h service) and then isn't following the 100h protocol. The missing points on a correct 100h is: Check/replacing external anodes Check the fuel system Lubrication points Checking/replacing propeller and cotterpin Check the timing belt Can just as well do the 200h at the same time, most people won't do 100h and 200h at different times (6months and 1 year).
This boat club is doing 100 hours every month or so. These boats don't sit around and die of corrosion like most. These videos were made for training their workers.
Thank you very much for making this awesome video. I have learn alot about boat maintenance from watching it.
Nice informative video for the diy persons. Only thing is at the 100 hrs service your supposed to change out your waterpump impeller which you didn't show or talk about. Some might not know this.
But thanks for putting up this part of the service. That helps a lot.
It's possible you might have another video showing the impeller but I couldn't find one.
Tight lines....
Thank you so much for your nice work. All the best.
I use to think that oil extractors were ridiculous, but I now do it on my boat, mower and generator, A lot less mess and much more efficient. I take the oil plug out after I suck it out, and I seldom get even a dribble of oil.
When I bought the boat the dealer really stressed the importance of changing the big water separator filter very regularly.
Brent.. thanks for posting this video. I, for one, appreciate folks like you that are willing to share their knowledge with the rest of us. For all of you who took shots at this gentleman... how about putting down your keyboard and make a video so that we can sit in awe of your expertise.
I like how this dude removes the drain plugs for the Lower Unit,a flat bit screwdriver and two fingers lol.
And what about thermostat, if you use the boat in the sea you should even make it clean. Then zink anodes, this engine have three button anodes that protect engine block and head.
you still have old oil in lower unit, should have tilted the motor to get the oil to the front
“This right here is your dipstick”
enough said
? Does all boat have that big filter in boat and can you make a video how to replace the VST filter... and thank you for a great video
You should start the motor and check there are no leaks especially around the fuel filters on the boat and in the bilge and the oil filter.
And pre-fill the oil filter. Pull the fuse on the fuel pump and crank to lube the engine so not to dry start. Typically top right 20A fuse.
What about changing the spark plugs and performing a compression check?
Hey, nice video. where can I buy the pump you used to suck out the old oil? What is the brand and model of the pump? Looks like you made that your self by just mounting it on top of a 5 gal bucket. Also can you provide a diagram of the switch you add to turn on/off the pump? thanks
How can u be sure you are getting all the dirty oil out with your pump?
Dave great video !!! i can not remove the shaft collar on my 150, drives me nuts , any idea?
Plugs ? Dump old fuel from filter and clean ? gear lube still in case ? Thermostat ? Zink's ? Do not do it like this as it's half ass job! This is why you do it yourself! Man bun is to tight.
Thank heavens this guy don't work on my motors.Besides not inspecting zincs T/Stat he never started the motor to fill the new oil filter and recheck oil level, neither did he flush out the water seperator bowl after removal and he did not change gaskets on the lower unit drain screws neither did he shoot grease into the zerk fittings.Would'nt hurt changing plugs either. Better off doing your own stuff.
I seen the same things, I'm buying a set of 200 suzuki's and my guy told me that he doesn't change the gear oil on the 20 hour service and planned to test the props for speed soon as the motors are on. I said as far as the gear oil and 20 hour service I will do all my own and I don't want him putting the boat in the water at all because before the motor can go to full speed is after 3 hours of break in. Got to learn to do stuff yourself like you say.
What hour do you change the Thermostat ?
So sad to see people doing videos like (This is the 100h service) and then isn't following the 100h protocol.
The missing points on a correct 100h is:
Check/replacing external anodes
Check the fuel system
Lubrication points
Checking/replacing propeller and cotterpin
Check the timing belt
Can just as well do the 200h at the same time, most people won't do 100h and 200h at different times (6months and 1 year).
This boat club is doing 100 hours every month or so. These boats don't sit around and die of corrosion like most. These videos were made for training their workers.
Spark plugs? Compression check? Prop?
Haha he sounds so legit too, with the righty tighty lefty lossy business as well