You can prevent your elbow from dropping too soon by using a shorter bridge length when doing a draw shot. This way the tip contacts the ball before the elbow drops... but you shouldn't be dropping your elbow in the first place. But a shorter bridge will help.
Basically, you are not entirely wrong but you are not right for sure in your verbal representation even though you are doing it right. 👌 For good draw shot, POWER is not needed. You need SPEED. Let me explain. POWER represent LINEAR ENERGY that you transfer to CB. POWER is used for CB movement. More POWER you give to CB, faster it moves. You are controling the CB with power with all shots up to 1 tip max around the center. SPEED represents ROTATIONAL ENERGY that you transfer to CB. More SPEED you give to CB, FASTER it ROTATE. Not all shots require SPEED and You can't use SPEED for all shots. Shots that are SPEED dependable are those when you want ROTATION to do the work instead of POWER. F.E. You can ride the CB around the table 5 or 6 rails hitting it with medium POWER but with lot of SPEED applying more running english and let that rotation drive the CB whenever it hits the rail. You will notice that initially CB is not moving VERY FAST but it decelerating slower because whenever it hits the rail, rotation is adding energy to the movement. Other option is to hit it harder, with less english it will move FASTER at beginning, but it will noticeable start to decelerate because it loose more power with each contact with the rail, noticeably visible after bouncing off the 3rd rail f.e. You constantly using term POWER the wrong way, but it's obvious that you are doing it right. Notice how you have very FAST rotation of the CB, but CB itself is not moving FAST. There is noticable difference in stroke delivery also. When you want to use POWER, your stroke will reach maximum speed on impact with CB. Punch stroke is good representation of this example. When you roll the ball is another good example. Rolling the CB is perfect example of purely POWER dependable shot. Wrist and grip is more or less firm, you are using at least 3 fingers in your grip, and and your follow trough is basically shorter or not needed.. You are FORCING the cue into the CB, also getting more feedback from the CB on contact and sound on impact is fuller. When you want to use SPEED your stroke will accelerate TROUGH the CB and your cue is achieving maximum speed after contacting the CB. You are literally shooting TROUGH the CB. Any shot with english more than 1.5 tips in any direction is pretty much when you need and want to use this type of stroke. Wrist and grip are more loosen, you can use only one finger in grip hand (index or middle) and you are delivering the stroke with more ease but movement of the rear hand and cue itself is faster. You have less feedback from CB on contact and sound is almost muted. Hope it helps. 😉
Thanks for your input, but I think its more easily described as how hard you strike the cue ball and how low you strike the cue ball. The lower you hit, the greater the rotation/power. We are essentially saying the same thing. Softer lower hits for the win. Only use high power if the object ball is too far away for the draw to hold with a soft/medium hit.
Your verbal description of the draw shot is better than most videos that I’ve watched. If you’re going to use a shorter bridge, you must also lower the bridge. You can keep a normal bridge and shorten your back stroke. The cue tip must accelerate through the cue ball contact smoothly. It may also help to have your stroking hand grip the cue slightly forward of perpendicular so it’s traveling downward at contact.
I always move my up and down to adjust for where I am striking the cue ball. I tend to only adjust my bridge length for how hard I plan to hit the cue ball.
@@WorldofPoolandBilliards For me, it's the slow motion captures and the action on the cue ball.. We miss all of that in the older videos on youtube from the 80's/90's, imo.
i find that the most important thing is grip pressure in the back hand. if you tighten your hand just b4 impact there's a big chance for a miscue .and its a hard thing to change because your brain sees that there's resistance when you hit the cue ball. that's the most important thing to work on. and when you get the felling you can use it on all shots.
Keeping your wrist loose seems to help on draw shots and having a smoother faster stroke. That is a common mistake, gripping the cue harder during the follow through than keeping the same grip throughout the stroke.
You should film your wrist and elbow. I think they’re very important with draw shots. Everyone knows they’re supposed to aim low. And people can easily practice hitting the exact point of the cue ball they want. But a lot of players struggle with not dropping the elbow, keeping the shoulder still, having a loose wrist, and smooth acceleration
Also, I find that when people miscue on a low power draw shot. they will often have a short stabby stroke and that makes the cue tip drop. Long slower strokes make for much better draw when using extreme draw. I watch Tyler styer draw the ball back full table on a 9ft with a medium stroke with the cue ball in the kitchen and the object ball on the 2nd diamond at the foot of the table.
@@WorldofPoolandBilliards I don't want to lessen this video as one can see that you can put a lot of time & effort into these, but I'd like to make a suggestion. You see a lot of videos where they only focus on one drill at a time, so to me this one is just another one of those...and even though it is a good one, it's more of the same. It would be cool to see an entire practice session video. Where you show a few drills that focus on a certain area of pool. For example, "9ball practice session", "position session", or "defense session". They could be set up in a way (most likely going from simple to difficult) where someone could follow your video and have an hour or two practice session based on a set of drills that works that specific aspect of the game. Just a suggestion of a way that you could differentiate yourself and your RUclips videos/channel from other pool channels.
@@xavielgaram I have the same issue. I'm obviously getting under the ball, so should I be using a downward angle on the stroke? The ball jumps when I increase the cue speed for longer draw shots. Any help appreciated!
I feel like your grip should universal for all shots so I didn't find it necessary to mention it in this video, but certainly a proper grip is important.
I switched my cue tip recently from a medium to a Kamui soft, massive draw power difference. The soft is much more effortless, but its still pretty damn tough to perform a power draw. This is only my opinion though, and it also relies pretty heavily on technique and your stroke.
I think the soft tip compresses more which allows the tip to stay on the ball just a little bit longer providing more grip and spin. An expert will disagree though saying that the differences are very minor however I think having a soft tip allows you to hit the ball at the miscue limit with less chalk on the tip too and with better results if you're going for a draw shot. That being said, the downside is that you can mishit the ball or add unwanted spin to the cue ball more easily for long straight shots. A lot of pros use medium-hard tips for the reason of being consistent.
Bro, when you asked at 2:00 if that would be a miss cue it totally would be as later you can clearly see by looking at the shadow of cue ball and the shaft. You were about half a tip higher on the strike
Hello, I tend to knock the cue ball off the table. Can you explain why this is happening to me. I practice the draw shot a lot but am not making much progress. Thank you, Victor from Peekskill New York.
In my video I talk about how low you can strike before you miscue. I assume that when you are knocking the cue ball off the table, you are striking below the micue limit and popping the cue ball off the table. You might also try ensuring your tip is well rounded. About the diameter of a dime or nickel.
@@WorldofPoolandBilliards IMHO, when you speak of a miscue limit, this is incorrect and also where you failed to mention in your video the TRUE secret to a powerful draw shot. There is no lower limit to where you can hit the cue ball with a 13mm or 12.5 mm tip. The tip will hit the felt first. What matters is the direction of the tip upon impact, and what determines direction is where on the pendulum you make contact with the cue ball. The secret to a powerful draw is to contact the ball just before or at the bottom of the pendulum stroke. If you do that, your tip will be either rising a tiny amount, or going straight (optimal) at impact. But players tend to tighten up when a power draw is required, which results in them hitting the cue ball late in the pendulum, and when they do that the back hand is rising which means the tip is dropping at impact, since the bridge is the fulcrum of the lever. This is what causes the miscue. If you hit the ball just before your grip hand reaches the 90 degree dead bottom, the tip is actually rising ever so slightly, but enough to really drive the energy of the shot up and into the bottom of the ball, causing it to float magically across the felt with tons of spin. So, in conclusion, the best way to improve your draw shot is to pay attention to the timing of your stroke - i.e. where on the pendulum of your grip hand you're making contact. Set up carefully so you're at or just before the bottom and miscues don't happen, as long as everything else is solid meaning no elbow drop etc. Easiest way to accomplish this at the table in the heat of battle is simply to set up for your shot as normal but then move your grip hand back on the cue a couple inches. Relax and stroke fast with confidence and watch the magic happen.
Could be a tip problem if the tip isn’t well rounded. Might be. Stroke problem if you end up hitting lower than you are aiming. Use the slow motion camera feature on your or a friends phone and watch where you actually hit the cue ball on your final stroke.
I've been watching your videos for a while and finally down loaded the app. It's awesome. I have one suggestion. Link a video in each drill in the app. You may get a few more views. The first thing I did on the first drill was look for the video. Thanks for the effort put into the app. Being able to keep track, filter by skill and other things, and you updating with new drills is awesome.
This is actually something that I have already built into the app. The problem right now is that I haven't made a video for all of the drills yet, but they are coming. I will be adding the links as I complete the videos.
I'm not really sure. Best to keep your equipment within the standard regs though just to be sure. I imagine it wouldn't have much of an effect as long as it was well-rounded. The biggest equipment problem you will come up against is a heavy bar table cue ball which is much harder to get spin on.
My first suggestion is to make sure your tip is well rounded. This allows your tip to grip the cue ball better when striking further from the center of the cue ball. When you plan to hit one of these shots that are near the miscue limit, be sure to chalk. Lastly, you may be hitting lower than you were aiming (lower than the miscue limit) on those instances where the cue ball jumps up, causing a miscue. Set up your phone and record your self and watch it back in slow motion. Look for the difference in where you aim vs where you strike the cue ball.
I'm not an expert on equipment, but Dr. Dave did a video on exactly this. The outcome of the video was that tip hardness made little to no difference in the amount of spin you could put on the cue ball.
I have a problem where When I’m trying to perform a draw shot It sometimes spins forward, side spin, jump, and do a stun shot, and most of the time won’t respond What should I do?
This is due to inconsistencies in your stroke. The better a player is the more accurate they are at hitting the cue ball precisely where they planned to. You need to practice precision cueing because it sounds like the tip of your cue is uncontrolled hitting too high, below miscue, or left/right.
@@WorldofPoolandBilliardsthanks for telling me Do you mind if you could recommend me any videos that helps my pool problem? Only tell me the title, you don’t have to send any links.
When i draw or follow, should my bridge be centered and attack down or up on the cue ball or adjust my bridge either higher or lower and attack the cue ball higher or lower from (but in a stright line) from a centered bridge? A bit confuseing but hopefully someone understands my question and can give correct advise. Thanks
You can prevent your elbow from dropping too soon by using a shorter bridge length when doing a draw shot. This way the tip contacts the ball before the elbow drops... but you shouldn't be dropping your elbow in the first place. But a shorter bridge will help.
A shorter bridge legth can really do miracles for your game.
Golden comment right here.
Basically, you are not entirely wrong but you are not right for sure in your verbal representation even though you are doing it right. 👌
For good draw shot, POWER is not needed. You need SPEED. Let me explain.
POWER represent LINEAR ENERGY that you transfer to CB. POWER is used for CB movement. More POWER you give to CB, faster it moves. You are controling the CB with power with all shots up to 1 tip max around the center.
SPEED represents ROTATIONAL ENERGY that you transfer to CB. More SPEED you give to CB, FASTER it ROTATE.
Not all shots require SPEED and You can't use SPEED for all shots.
Shots that are SPEED dependable are those when you want ROTATION to do the work instead of POWER. F.E. You can ride the CB around the table 5 or 6 rails hitting it with medium POWER but with lot of SPEED applying more running english and let that rotation drive the CB whenever it hits the rail. You will notice that initially CB is not moving VERY FAST but it decelerating slower because whenever it hits the rail, rotation is adding energy to the movement. Other option is to hit it harder, with less english it will move FASTER at beginning, but it will noticeable start to decelerate because it loose more power with each contact with the rail, noticeably visible after bouncing off the 3rd rail f.e.
You constantly using term POWER the wrong way, but it's obvious that you are doing it right. Notice how you have very FAST rotation of the CB, but CB itself is not moving FAST.
There is noticable difference in stroke delivery also.
When you want to use POWER, your stroke will reach maximum speed on impact with CB. Punch stroke is good representation of this example. When you roll the ball is another good example. Rolling the CB is perfect example of purely POWER dependable shot. Wrist and grip is more or less firm, you are using at least 3 fingers in your grip, and and your follow trough is basically shorter or not needed.. You are FORCING the cue into the CB, also getting more feedback from the CB on contact and sound on impact is fuller.
When you want to use SPEED your stroke will accelerate TROUGH the CB and your cue is achieving maximum speed after contacting the CB. You are literally shooting TROUGH the CB. Any shot with english more than 1.5 tips in any direction is pretty much when you need and want to use this type of stroke. Wrist and grip are more loosen, you can use only one finger in grip hand (index or middle) and you are delivering the stroke with more ease but movement of the rear hand and cue itself is faster. You have less feedback from CB on contact and sound is almost muted.
Hope it helps. 😉
Excellent comments. I never thought of speed vs power in those terms. Thanks.
This is true, but most players think of it conceptually as the same thing.
Thanks for your input, but I think its more easily described as how hard you strike the cue ball and how low you strike the cue ball. The lower you hit, the greater the rotation/power. We are essentially saying the same thing. Softer lower hits for the win. Only use high power if the object ball is too far away for the draw to hold with a soft/medium hit.
Rare to see good production quality and good pool instruction in the same video. Keep it up!
Much appreciated!
Your verbal description of the draw shot is better than most videos that I’ve watched.
If you’re going to use a shorter bridge, you must also lower the bridge.
You can keep a normal bridge and shorten your back stroke.
The cue tip must accelerate through the cue ball contact smoothly.
It may also help to have your stroking hand grip the cue slightly forward of perpendicular so it’s traveling downward at contact.
I always move my up and down to adjust for where I am striking the cue ball. I tend to only adjust my bridge length for how hard I plan to hit the cue ball.
Igate
This camera work makes all the difference. Thank you!
Glad you enjoy it. I spend a lot of time thinking about the different shots and camera angles I will film.
@@WorldofPoolandBilliards For me, it's the slow motion captures and the action on the cue ball.. We miss all of that in the older videos on youtube from the 80's/90's, imo.
i find that the most important thing is grip pressure in the back hand. if you tighten your hand just b4 impact there's a big chance for a miscue .and its a hard thing to change because your brain
sees that there's resistance when you hit the cue ball. that's the most important thing to work on. and when you get the felling you can use it on all shots.
Keeping your wrist loose seems to help on draw shots and having a smoother faster stroke. That is a common mistake, gripping the cue harder during the follow through than keeping the same grip throughout the stroke.
Thank You that makes sense
You should film your wrist and elbow. I think they’re very important with draw shots. Everyone knows they’re supposed to aim low. And people can easily practice hitting the exact point of the cue ball they want. But a lot of players struggle with not dropping the elbow, keeping the shoulder still, having a loose wrist, and smooth acceleration
sometimes when i tried to draw shot, the cue ball jumped...
Try to not raise the cue from behind. Instead of raising the cue just flaten your bridge hand
@nothingnothing726 thanks for the tutor 👍
Also, I find that when people miscue on a low power draw shot. they will often have a short stabby stroke and that makes the cue tip drop. Long slower strokes make for much better draw when using extreme draw. I watch Tyler styer draw the ball back full table on a 9ft with a medium stroke with the cue ball in the kitchen and the object ball on the 2nd diamond at the foot of the table.
Its all about technique.
@@WorldofPoolandBilliards
I don't want to lessen this video as one can see that you can put a lot of time & effort into these, but I'd like to make a suggestion. You see a lot of videos where they only focus on one drill at a time, so to me this one is just another one of those...and even though it is a good one, it's more of the same.
It would be cool to see an entire practice session video. Where you show a few drills that focus on a certain area of pool. For example, "9ball practice session", "position session", or "defense session". They could be set up in a way (most likely going from simple to difficult) where someone could follow your video and have an hour or two practice session based on a set of drills that works that specific aspect of the game. Just a suggestion of a way that you could differentiate yourself and your RUclips videos/channel from other pool channels.
Why did I end up scooping the ball and make it jump? Do I get too low?
@@xavielgaram I have the same issue. I'm obviously getting under the ball, so should I be using a downward angle on the stroke? The ball jumps when I increase the cue speed for longer draw shots. Any help appreciated!
@@FargoDaddy have you found the answer brother?
very well produced video and information. great suggestion to put a video link to the drills
Thanks
Leave any video requests below. Links to the app is in the description.
GREAT TO HAVE YOU BACK
Thanks
Don't forget to mention the grip!
I feel like your grip should universal for all shots so I didn't find it necessary to mention it in this video, but certainly a proper grip is important.
Very high quality video! Great job.
Thanks!
I switched my cue tip recently from a medium to a Kamui soft, massive draw power difference. The soft is much more effortless, but its still pretty damn tough to perform a power draw. This is only my opinion though, and it also relies pretty heavily on technique and your stroke.
I think the soft tip compresses more which allows the tip to stay on the ball just a little bit longer providing more grip and spin. An expert will disagree though saying that the differences are very minor however I think having a soft tip allows you to hit the ball at the miscue limit with less chalk on the tip too and with better results if you're going for a draw shot. That being said, the downside is that you can mishit the ball or add unwanted spin to the cue ball more easily for long straight shots. A lot of pros use medium-hard tips for the reason of being consistent.
@@b4ssfunk3d Agreed, medium to hard tips guarantees consistency in shots, but some people still prefer soft based on preferences.
Bro, when you asked at 2:00 if that would be a miss cue it totally would be as later you can clearly see by looking at the shadow of cue ball and the shaft. You were about half a tip higher on the strike
Hello, I tend to knock the cue ball off the table. Can you explain why this is happening to me. I practice the draw shot a lot but am not making much progress. Thank you, Victor from Peekskill New York.
In my video I talk about how low you can strike before you miscue. I assume that when you are knocking the cue ball off the table, you are striking below the micue limit and popping the cue ball off the table. You might also try ensuring your tip is well rounded. About the diameter of a dime or nickel.
@@WorldofPoolandBilliards IMHO, when you speak of a miscue limit, this is incorrect and also where you failed to mention in your video the TRUE secret to a powerful draw shot. There is no lower limit to where you can hit the cue ball with a 13mm or 12.5 mm tip. The tip will hit the felt first. What matters is the direction of the tip upon impact, and what determines direction is where on the pendulum you make contact with the cue ball. The secret to a powerful draw is to contact the ball just before or at the bottom of the pendulum stroke. If you do that, your tip will be either rising a tiny amount, or going straight (optimal) at impact. But players tend to tighten up when a power draw is required, which results in them hitting the cue ball late in the pendulum, and when they do that the back hand is rising which means the tip is dropping at impact, since the bridge is the fulcrum of the lever. This is what causes the miscue. If you hit the ball just before your grip hand reaches the 90 degree dead bottom, the tip is actually rising ever so slightly, but enough to really drive the energy of the shot up and into the bottom of the ball, causing it to float magically across the felt with tons of spin. So, in conclusion, the best way to improve your draw shot is to pay attention to the timing of your stroke - i.e. where on the pendulum of your grip hand you're making contact. Set up carefully so you're at or just before the bottom and miscues don't happen, as long as everything else is solid meaning no elbow drop etc. Easiest way to accomplish this at the table in the heat of battle is simply to set up for your shot as normal but then move your grip hand back on the cue a couple inches. Relax and stroke fast with confidence and watch the magic happen.
what camera are you using? and how many pictures in seconds are needed to make the details when the que hits the ball.
Cue ball hops when I aim that low. Is this a stroke problem or could it be a table problem?
Could be a tip problem if the tip isn’t well rounded. Might be. Stroke problem if you end up hitting lower than you are aiming. Use the slow motion camera feature on your or a friends phone and watch where you actually hit the cue ball on your final stroke.
I've been watching your videos for a while and finally down loaded the app. It's awesome. I have one suggestion. Link a video in each drill in the app. You may get a few more views. The first thing I did on the first drill was look for the video. Thanks for the effort put into the app. Being able to keep track, filter by skill and other things, and you updating with new drills is awesome.
This is actually something that I have already built into the app. The problem right now is that I haven't made a video for all of the drills yet, but they are coming. I will be adding the links as I complete the videos.
@@WorldofPoolandBilliards excellent, I hope it takes off!
Great video. Question... if I have too small of a tip. Could that also be a reason for my draw shot struggling?
I'm not really sure. Best to keep your equipment within the standard regs though just to be sure. I imagine it wouldn't have much of an effect as long as it was well-rounded. The biggest equipment problem you will come up against is a heavy bar table cue ball which is much harder to get spin on.
For me it seems like I draw the cue ball better on my shots with a 16 or 17 Oz q rather than a 18 and a half to 19 Oz cue
I’m not sure why. Seems like something dr Dave might have covered.
good video. but I really do not like the loud music which is quite an distraction to me.
Amazing content/tutorial!! 💯🔥 -a pro singer and an amateur pool player 😅
I'm glad you find my content helpful. Best of luck in your new career as a pool player!
Great video I appreciate you Brother
Thanks
My problem is that sometimes my draw shot is perfect but sometimes I jump the cue ball and I don't know why
My first suggestion is to make sure your tip is well rounded. This allows your tip to grip the cue ball better when striking further from the center of the cue ball. When you plan to hit one of these shots that are near the miscue limit, be sure to chalk. Lastly, you may be hitting lower than you were aiming (lower than the miscue limit) on those instances where the cue ball jumps up, causing a miscue. Set up your phone and record your self and watch it back in slow motion. Look for the difference in where you aim vs where you strike the cue ball.
@@WorldofPoolandBilliards thank you so much
Does the tip hardness make a difference on the draw. is soft tip better or medium or hard?? very curious about this Thanks
I'm not an expert on equipment, but Dr. Dave did a video on exactly this. The outcome of the video was that tip hardness made little to no difference in the amount of spin you could put on the cue ball.
I have a problem where
When I’m trying to perform a draw shot
It sometimes spins forward, side spin, jump, and do a stun shot, and most of the time won’t respond
What should I do?
This is due to inconsistencies in your stroke. The better a player is the more accurate they are at hitting the cue ball precisely where they planned to. You need to practice precision cueing because it sounds like the tip of your cue is uncontrolled hitting too high, below miscue, or left/right.
@@WorldofPoolandBilliardsthanks for telling me
Do you mind if you could recommend me any videos that helps my pool problem?
Only tell me the title, you don’t have to send any links.
@@rizztaker1 Try searching Mark Wilson Pool Clinic Part 1, Mark teaches stance and stroke as the two most important things to start with.
When i draw or follow, should my bridge be centered and attack down or up on the cue ball or adjust my bridge either higher or lower and attack the cue ball higher or lower from (but in a stright line) from a centered bridge? A bit confuseing but hopefully someone understands my question and can give correct advise. Thanks
It crazy I can draw shot while it close but not when I'm distant from it 🤦🏿♂
I like draw shots on Brunswick tables.. more action
I liked Diamond Tables, but I have played on some nice Brunswicks
This is the way
That it is.
You’re alone. Why the mask?
Not alone, just filmed so that nobody else would be in the frame. Also, masks are madatory in South Korea. Not really my choice.
Why are you wearing a mask in an empty pool room?
Its not empty and its the law here in South Korea. The ROK government is very proactive in fining violators.
😷🙄🤣
Can’t take seriously someone wearing a face diaper
Its not by choice.
And there he is, the ignorant 'merican.