As the temperature goes down, the length of the spindle shrinks, and the fit becomes tighter, not looser, which is why they want you to run it, to heat it up, so that it will lengthen, and become looser. I can’t really recommend way oil for the spindle. That’s for very slow operations, for a sliding fit, and is sticky, which is the opposite of spindle oil,, which is designed for high speed close tolerance rotating parts. Way oil changes its characteristics dramatically when it heats up.
Please post that manual. I don't personally need it but I can promise you someone does. I work on old equipment and know how rare manuals and schematics are becoming. So not for me or you but for the kid sixty years from now that finds that lathe. For all that lathe has done for you, it deserves it.
Great video. I ran into the same issue on mine recently, however my lathe is a bit older and has babbitt bearings. I posted a video of how I adjusted mine.
Enjoying your vids. Was reading the bearing adjust procedure along with you. Thought, wait a minute, 50 degree F temp rise? That doesn't sound right. Reread it a couple times. It's right in there with running spindle 30 - 60 min., but that's just to warm the oil. Get it to operating temp. They're not saying you should see a 50 degree temp. rise. My building, in Montana, can easily be 40F in the winter & 90F in the summer. Not trying to do any lathe work at either extreme. Think they were just pointing out the effect of work room temp. ???
Hey there Chuck. Ya, you kinda gotta read between the lines. There are too many variables to consider. Weight of chuck/work, Axial loads vs radial etc.. time in use, ambient temperature. Just let her run in a bit and your good to go. This Craftsman I can start working on just about right out of the gate. My monarch on the other hand... She'll get a good five minute warm up before I even think of touching a tool to work. I think there was a time (when these manuals were written) that every boy had gone through shop class and had the facts of lathe explained to them at an early age. Thanks for following. Don
Hi Russel. Sorry I missed this comment. Been pretty busy. I'm pretty sure its a Shars branded Asian dovetail lock AXA style. Works really well on the Atlas. I keep looking for an authentic Aloris at the flea market. Its just a matter of time. For the light work I do on this machine, this will do the trick for now. Are you looking to add a QCTP? Don
I have the same lathe and the same I Guage DRO's installed. Parting off is nerve wracking these machines just aren't all that rigid I have parted stainless steel but everything better be tight on center and parallel to the chuck or there's going to be a train wreck. I made a tool height gauge to set my turning tools to the center of the workpiece and check them often. I really need to invest in a new chuck mine is worn and I don't have the tool post grinder that came with the lathe someone swiped it out of my cousins shop where the lathe was stored or I would true the jaws up. I have adjusted my bearings before but I didn't add the preload and I use turbine oil to lubricate them. Make sure you have felt in the cups to wick the oil to the bearings I replaced mine this year.
Yes Perdido, the Atlas doesn't care much for parting harder metals. I added a 1 HP DC motor which provides a little better consistency under heavy load like parting. Of course correct spindle adjustment is necessary and honestly I almost always use HSS blades as carbide insert parting blades burn too much power. If what I'm parting is too tough for HSS, I'll pull it out and saw it, then clean up the ends. Thanks for sharing BTW. Don
@@donsengine3158 Yes carbide tools especially parting blades take quite a bit of pressure to work. I started with a thin Accusize parting tool I believe it's 2mm wide and instantly broke the first one and destroyed the holder. I only use it now for grooving and aluminum I have a heavier Shars carbide indexable that I carefully part off with and a couple of tool steel ones I use. I actually get a pretty good surface finish with my Atlas even on cold roll using small radius inserts I wish it could have a slower feed rate it would be better. Emery cloth is my friend.
I have this same lathe, have you ever changed the belts?, I went to the LINK belts, I'm having fits to get the belts to go through without it flipping....tried the "lazy" way out, but may have to take the gears loose to put on original ones..... would like to have a defendant model number for this one....got a model number 101.28900 & 101.28910 Parts book, it was as close as Icould get.... have not found the exact number...would you happen to know? like your video, mine is very tight ...no play what so ever. But may need video if I change the belt. :(
Oh jeez.. I'm not a fan at all of the link belts. I may get pummeled for that, but I just don't see them performing as well as a proper V belt. I don't have the actual part number on hand. I know that the Atlas/craftsman parts are posted on line somewhere. I run across them from time to time. Probably one of the Craftsman lathe forums has them archived. Personally when i need something like that, I just get the old part out and go match it up at one of the industrial suppliers. I would also tear my machine down to change them out. I would give me reason to do some good cleaning and lube and replace anything worn. Let me know how it turns out. Don
@@donsengine3158 i did put the link belts on they are well, but on the bull gear the small pull out button will not come out, might get another one, and when i do i'll go back with the correct belts, having trouble with my engagement handle not going in as far as it needs to, which is causing belt slippage... but i enjoying working on it....your videos are great, one of my friends down the road has the same lathe, he is helping out!
Not sure, i t must be around a 1970. I remember watching my Dad put it together on his basement floor. I'm just figuring from about my age at the time.
As the temperature goes down, the length of the spindle shrinks, and the fit becomes tighter, not looser, which is why they want you to run it, to heat it up, so that it will lengthen, and become looser. I can’t really recommend way oil for the spindle. That’s for very slow operations, for a sliding fit, and is sticky, which is the opposite of spindle oil,, which is designed for high speed close tolerance rotating parts. Way oil changes its characteristics dramatically when it heats up.
That's some good info to know. I'm gonna take another look at it. Would have thought the opposite. Thanks!👍
That should come in handy for me as I have the same lathe. Thanks for the video keep on keeping on.
Thanx ARW... Don
Illuminating plus I love that T shirt.
One of my favorites. Preferred the material I had prior to this one, but I usually wear an AC DC T... Ha ha...
Please post that manual.
I don't personally need it but I can promise you someone does. I work on old equipment and know how rare manuals and schematics are becoming. So not for me or you but for the kid sixty years from now that finds that lathe. For all that lathe has done for you, it deserves it.
That may take some time... I think there are already reprints of this out there on the net.. Don
Good video. May check my atlas as parting is always (not so sweet) sorrow..... I like the t-shirt too. lol
Yes, its always best that everything is adjusted for best performance.
Also an Electronics geek... Digital Electronics Engineering... Hence AC-DC... But I won't talk about that on this cannel. 😵👍
Great video. I ran into the same issue on mine recently, however my lathe is a bit older and has babbitt bearings. I posted a video of how I adjusted mine.
I'll have to check that out.... Always keep trying to learn something.
A link to your video, please, Dustin.
@@markkoons7488 ruclips.net/video/pCOBjc4y3X0/видео.html
Don, great video. I’m New to the world of hobby machining… I’ll have to check mine. Thanks again from Jacksonville!
Thanks..👍
Great video thanks for the info….I just found the same lathe in Daytona it needs the same adjustment
Great, glad its of use to you. Good luck with the lathe. Don
Yep that's what mine needs. Thank you.
Makes the difference.... Don
Enjoying your vids. Was reading the bearing adjust procedure along with you. Thought, wait a minute, 50 degree F temp rise? That doesn't sound right. Reread it a couple times. It's right in there with running spindle 30 - 60 min., but that's just to warm the oil. Get it to operating temp. They're not saying you should see a 50 degree temp. rise. My building, in Montana, can easily be 40F in the winter & 90F in the summer. Not trying to do any lathe work at either extreme. Think they were just pointing out the effect of work room temp. ???
Hey there Chuck. Ya, you kinda gotta read between the lines. There are too many variables to consider. Weight of chuck/work, Axial loads vs radial etc.. time in use, ambient temperature. Just let her run in a bit and your good to go. This Craftsman I can start working on just about right out of the gate. My monarch on the other hand... She'll get a good five minute warm up before I even think of touching a tool to work. I think there was a time (when these manuals were written) that every boy had gone through shop class and had the facts of lathe explained to them at an early age. Thanks for following. Don
I have the same commercial lathe , this could come in handy .
Seems any time we make those sight adjustment it helps more than we expect. Don
Thank You, I'm gonna do mine on my TH54 Atlas Lathe 😇🙏
you can use the tail stock to push spindle
Yes, Ive seen that done...
Great video!!
Thanx... Don
awesome video 👍thanks
Thank you. Don
Great job !! 🤗
Thanx Don
What brand quick change tool post do you have?
Hi Russel. Sorry I missed this comment. Been pretty busy. I'm pretty sure its a Shars branded Asian dovetail lock AXA style. Works really well on the Atlas. I keep looking for an authentic Aloris at the flea market. Its just a matter of time. For the light work I do on this machine, this will do the trick for now. Are you looking to add a QCTP? Don
I have the same lathe and the same I Guage DRO's installed. Parting off is nerve wracking these machines just aren't all that rigid I have parted stainless steel but everything better be tight on center and parallel to the chuck or there's going to be a train wreck. I made a tool height gauge to set my turning tools to the center of the workpiece and check them often. I really need to invest in a new chuck mine is worn and I don't have the tool post grinder that came with the lathe someone swiped it out of my cousins shop where the lathe was stored or I would true the jaws up. I have adjusted my bearings before but I didn't add the preload and I use turbine oil to lubricate them. Make sure you have felt in the cups to wick the oil to the bearings I replaced mine this year.
Yes Perdido, the Atlas doesn't care much for parting harder metals. I added a 1 HP DC motor which provides a little better consistency under heavy load like parting. Of course correct spindle adjustment is necessary and honestly I almost always use HSS blades as carbide insert parting blades burn too much power. If what I'm parting is too tough for HSS, I'll pull it out and saw it, then clean up the ends. Thanks for sharing BTW. Don
@@donsengine3158 Yes carbide tools especially parting blades take quite a bit of pressure to work. I started with a thin Accusize parting tool I believe it's 2mm wide and instantly broke the first one and destroyed the holder. I only use it now for grooving and aluminum I have a heavier Shars carbide indexable that I carefully part off with and a couple of tool steel ones I use. I actually get a pretty good surface finish with my Atlas even on cold roll using small radius inserts I wish it could have a slower feed rate it would be better. Emery cloth is my friend.
@@perdidocamaronero5400 OH ya. I love Emery cloth as well. Can make even my ham fisted work come out looking decent.
What spanner wrench u using?
Its just a floating pin spanner. not sure if there's a certain size to it. I've had it floating in my box for 40 years now.
i have the same model but can't find the gear on the left right movement wheel for the bed ( to move left and right)
I have this same lathe, have you ever changed the belts?, I went to the LINK belts, I'm having fits to get the belts to go through without it flipping....tried the "lazy" way out, but may have to take the gears loose to put on original ones..... would like to have a defendant model number for this one....got a model number 101.28900 & 101.28910 Parts book, it was as close as Icould get.... have not found the exact number...would you happen to know? like your video, mine is very tight ...no play what so ever. But may need video if I change the belt. :(
Oh jeez.. I'm not a fan at all of the link belts. I may get pummeled for that, but I just don't see them performing as well as a proper V belt. I don't have the actual part number on hand. I know that the Atlas/craftsman parts are posted on line somewhere. I run across them from time to time. Probably one of the Craftsman lathe forums has them archived. Personally when i need something like that, I just get the old part out and go match it up at one of the industrial suppliers. I would also tear my machine down to change them out. I would give me reason to do some good cleaning and lube and replace anything worn. Let me know how it turns out. Don
@@donsengine3158 i did put the link belts on they are well, but on the bull gear the small pull out button will not come out, might get another one, and when i do i'll go back with the correct belts, having trouble with my engagement handle not going in as far as it needs to, which is causing belt slippage... but i enjoying working on it....your videos are great, one of my friends down the road has the same lathe, he is helping out!
@@TimMoody-ud3ti Great. I love tinkering around with mine as well. Thanks.
How can I get this instruction manual for atlas lathe. I have got one incomplete machine
Did u release belt tension?
No need to . The double belts don't create enough radial load to affect the spindle axial play. Don
Thanks
salut Don`s
pare le son de tes Béring il a un son de dommage léger
merci pour les vidéo continu
Merci de vous inquiéter. Le bruit provient du petit espace dans le verrou de la roue arrière. Don
Chuck has too much overhang.
The spindle of my machine is with brass bearings
Yes, yo have an older model. You should be able to dig a manual up by Googling around. I see hem occasionally at the flea market as well. Don
what year is your lathe i have the exact same one!
Not sure, i t must be around a 1970. I remember watching my Dad put it together on his basement floor. I'm just figuring from about my age at the time.
thanks for the info!
Great video!
Thank you!