As an old-time Tool and Diemaker, (JPL_Richard) this is what I learned during my apprenticeship (1976-1978) and I still hold true today. Calipers (Any Brand or type) should NEVER be used for any work closer than +/-0.005" As a matter of fact, if you were caught using them (for close work) you got smacked....yes....the old dope slap. Today, in my home shop, I use HF for the dirty stuff (on machine measurement) and B&S calipers for inspection (+/-0.005")...Micrometers for everything else. PS: I WOULD have liked you to do a three-point comparison. OD/ID and Depth (or at lease ID/OD) for each brand, since they have that capability (and many of use all 3 measurement types in the shop).
I'm currently doing the mandatory course required to become a certified machinist in my country and our reference litterature clearly states to only use calipers down to measuring tenths of a millimeter. So what you learned back in the day is probably still the standard world wide
Thanks for doing this comparison. Most of us hobbyists cannot afford to buy a variety of the same type of instrument. BTW, I've had a no-name digital caliper that is over 10 years old and still going strong.
I agree 100%, no batteries required! But, being legally blind the digital stuff makes the difference whether I can see them or not. That being said, my $20 mic and calipers from Harbor Freight are more than accurate enough for me but there's a lot of good info here, thanks J!
@@NerdlyCNC I understand completely. And yes on a final inspection of a part I just spent 20 minutes turning or milling i will always take literally 2 seconds to wipe the face of the caliper or mic. You where splitting hairs going past tenths on your readings meanwhile any type of foreign material on the device could throw you off a couple thou.
Exactly what i was gonna say. Thermal expansion of gauge blocks is a black art so as a precaution I'd say you shouldn't have handled them bare handed for at least five minutes before using them for calibration to be extreeeeeeemely sure they are stabilised to the temperature in whatever environment they are going to calibrate stuff in.
No batteries -> mitutoyo solar powered calipers... huge game changer for me. especially for the larger sizes that you don’t use as often... it seems like every time I grabbed a 12” set of calipers they always had dead batteries.
thanks for the video, those super cheap micrometers have been smiling at me on ebay for quite some time, but I better save my money for decent quality ones.
I am also a fan of "no batteries required" tools, especially the ones with dials. When I am watching a dial I "feel" the measurement and when using a digital tool I feel like I am just reading a number without any thought what it means. That said I also value digital tools for their readability(but hate them when they run out of juice when most needed)
Having worked in a shop for a few years now, I’ll tell you guys that digitalis are the way to go. Dials WILL get chips on the teeth and will skip, and bind. Digital calipers don’t have that problem. Plus, for some reason, dials tend to be less smooth. I think maybe dials aren’t made Witt the same care they used to be. I have a pair of starrett dials I keep at home. Not that they aren’t accurate, but I know they won’t last. Mitutoyo digimatics are my favorite! Pretty durable, and the hold and incremental features are great.
whomever you use for gage calibration service, they may be able to repair any gages that have been damaged. i once had an 8" set of mitutoyo calipers get tweaked and the calibration company was able to repair them for a third of what a new one cost
Ah, you did end up with the Tormach lathe!! I don't think you'll regret that purchase at all. What year is your turret made? For some reason, my first lathe was sent with a relatively new turret. Second was sent with a 3 year older turret. Haven't had the chance to setup the second lathe, so not sure if there is a difference.
Great find. You don't see many pop up for sale. There are some mods that I have done to my tool holders to better direct coolant when using boring bars and drill bits as well as allow through coolant tools. Highly recommend that as well as a cheap ($60) 160 psi diaphragm pump off of Amazon.
I've always preferred dial-type calipers without a battery. They're always ready to go, rather than being ready to make a measurement and darn it where are all my extra watch batteries?!
As an old-time Tool and Diemaker, (JPL_Richard) this is what I learned during my apprenticeship (1976-1978) and I still hold true today. Calipers (Any Brand or type) should NEVER be used for any work closer than +/-0.005" As a matter of fact, if you were caught using them (for close work) you got smacked....yes....the old dope slap. Today, in my home shop, I use HF for the dirty stuff (on machine measurement) and B&S calipers for inspection (+/-0.005")...Micrometers for everything else. PS: I WOULD have liked you to do a three-point comparison. OD/ID and Depth (or at lease ID/OD) for each brand, since they have that capability (and many of use all 3 measurement types in the shop).
I'm currently doing the mandatory course required to become a certified machinist in my country and our reference litterature clearly states to only use calipers down to measuring tenths of a millimeter. So what you learned back in the day is probably still the standard world wide
Thanks for doing this comparison. Most of us hobbyists cannot afford to buy a variety of the same type of instrument. BTW, I've had a no-name digital caliper that is over 10 years old and still going strong.
I agree 100%, no batteries required! But, being legally blind the digital stuff makes the difference whether I can see them or not. That being said, my $20 mic and calipers from Harbor Freight are more than accurate enough for me but there's a lot of good info here, thanks J!
Thanks for watching Brian,
The best tool is the one that does the job at the price you are happy with!
Cheers,
Jason
I'm kinda shocked you didn't wipe the face of the the the mic or caliper to get it to "ring" to the Guage block. That's like machinist 101
Do you wring the mic to every part you measure?
Lmao. This was a shop floor comparison. Not a temp controlled inspection environment.
@@NerdlyCNC I understand completely. And yes on a final inspection of a part I just spent 20 minutes turning or milling i will always take literally 2 seconds to wipe the face of the caliper or mic. You where splitting hairs going past tenths on your readings meanwhile any type of foreign material on the device could throw you off a couple thou.
The longer your hold the gauge block the more it will change and grow.
Exactly what i was gonna say. Thermal expansion of gauge blocks is a black art so as a precaution I'd say you shouldn't have handled them bare handed for at least five minutes before using them for calibration to be extreeeeeeemely sure they are stabilised to the temperature in whatever environment they are going to calibrate stuff in.
I still hav my dadz Brown & Sharp electronic dijital caliper from the early 80z. It haz a glass scale and still works perfectly.
No batteries -> mitutoyo solar powered calipers... huge game changer for me. especially for the larger sizes that you don’t use as often... it seems like every time I grabbed a 12” set of calipers they always had dead batteries.
thanks for the video, those super cheap micrometers have been smiling at me on ebay for quite some time, but I better save my money for decent quality ones.
I am also a fan of "no batteries required" tools, especially the ones with dials. When I am watching a dial I "feel" the measurement and when using a digital tool I feel like I am just reading a number without any thought what it means. That said I also value digital tools for their readability(but hate them when they run out of juice when most needed)
It’s a bad day when you can see the table between the closed jaws of your caliper.
On side of the machines I use insize calipers and for inspection drawer Mitutoyo all the way i think Insize are good between price and quality
Great information about the Shars brand. Will you have a link for the 3D printed holder on thingiverse?
Having worked in a shop for a few years now, I’ll tell you guys that digitalis are the way to go. Dials WILL get chips on the teeth and will skip, and bind. Digital calipers don’t have that problem. Plus, for some reason, dials tend to be less smooth. I think maybe dials aren’t made Witt the same care they used to be. I have a pair of starrett dials I keep at home. Not that they aren’t accurate, but I know they won’t last. Mitutoyo digimatics are my favorite! Pretty durable, and the hold and incremental features are great.
Edit: calipers were called “guessing sticks” at the first shop I worked at.
whomever you use for gage calibration service, they may be able to repair any gages that have been damaged. i once had an 8" set of mitutoyo calipers get tweaked and the calibration company was able to repair them for a third of what a new one cost
Ah, you did end up with the Tormach lathe!! I don't think you'll regret that purchase at all. What year is your turret made? For some reason, my first lathe was sent with a relatively new turret. Second was sent with a 3 year older turret. Haven't had the chance to setup the second lathe, so not sure if there is a difference.
i got it used...for a reasonable deal....do we'll see how it goes :)
Great find. You don't see many pop up for sale. There are some mods that I have done to my tool holders to better direct coolant when using boring bars and drill bits as well as allow through coolant tools. Highly recommend that as well as a cheap ($60) 160 psi diaphragm pump off of Amazon.
Do you still have the Syil?
I've always preferred dial-type calipers without a battery. They're always ready to go, rather than being ready to make a measurement and darn it where are all my extra watch batteries?!
Those Husky tables are a great value aren't they.
That harbor freight one I would through out without a second thought!!! also Mitutoyo calipers are not that expensive in my mind.
Have you ever tried igaging?
damn prusa mini is too small for that holder
the mike set says lifetime warranty so return it because it suck
The very-nears
I dont like mitsyolotot due to the price you pay you got a cheap crap case, but other brand which cost less come in better case