Most slicers will let you pick your material for the support interface, which is what I use. I have a roll of PVA that has lasted me forever because I only use a tiny bit for each print that uses supports. Once the interface dissolves you just pull the rest of the support away, you don't have to use PVA for the entire support
Instead of using water souluble filament as support material, I've seen others use PETG for supports when using PLA for the main filament and vise versa. Might be somthing worth trying with a dual extruder setup.
I've use both materials for support with the other the main printed part and worked well but can't compare to soluable filament as I didnt try that. 0mm gap so printed directly on top of the suport.
They're absolutely still working out bugs and kinks, but these machines are no longer fresh off the press. Sadly it seems that customers have all been beta testers as has been a pretty universal problem with Snapmaker's products over the years. I'd love to buy one of these and have been keeping a close eye on it since release, but every day it seems another fundamental hardware flaw is found by the early buyers, and they've *still* not released their source for Marlin as used on the printer so even software bugs cannot be fixed by the community.
The white im sure didn't print properly because you didn't calibrate the z offset for it. I have the SV04 idex. You have to manually adjust it to match the first extruder
So i have had my J1 siting in tbe box , brand new since Jan 2023. My kids and i have been prinint with it for about 2 weeks now.. Using Tinkercad , not yet understand Prusa slicers .. We save the 3d model onto our file on desktop and then open it with Snapmakers Cura.. then send to machine for print.. Must be an easier way? Prusa slicer isnt working with our J1.. also can this machine print Nylon and other harder spools with just changing nozzles?
350 definitely sounds fast - but it'd have been cool to see more than just a few seconds of "live" real-time footage of the printer printing at that speed. my Delta FDM printer is advertised with "up to 90mm/s", but I've been afraid to go beyond half of that honestly 😅
I have the same printer and it did make the shark mouth open, but one of the teeth came out. No biggie though. do you know how to resume a project, deleting one of the pieces, if one of the pieces messed up?
After buying the Snakmaker A350, I am never going to my Snapmaker again. It looks excellent on print, but getting good prints off it is almost impossible. Their support is only a little help, although they do answer. I bought a Prusa i3 instead, and that thing is just truckin' on making perfect print after perfect print :D
We have an A 350 at work, surprised that my boss choose them it does seem very well made with a very solid structure. They print extremely well as long as you don’t mind waiting 3 days for a print to finish.
11/28/23 Having a hard time finding a slicer program that works with my J1. Cura is only showing other models or Makerbot printers that are compatible. Also left extruder screen options is a huge open page of info, but then the right side extrudee option minimal. How do you do the to colors and use both extruders? Only time im able to do so , is when i use already preinstalles files like the shark.. or from someone STL i downloaded which already requires 2 colors in the model.. Guess ill need to look into the water desolving support. Huge learning curve .
"The Fastest IDEX 3D Printer You Can Buy" Really? I didn't see anything in this video to support that claim. No real time print clips with sound, no clips showing how fast it is, just you talking next to an idle printer.
Preview is the thumbnail plugin in cura. It will however screw up any estimates on print length as not many printers can interpret the gcode for the thumbnail as such so they think those are print instructions
I've watched this video many times. Now it's 2/17/24 and now my J1 has a clog.. looking for a video review on how to properly take stuck filament out from hot ends.
Just trying to figure out why you would buy this when you can get a Bambu Labs Carbon X1 with four colors for a bit more? Very fast and more colors....
This one fills different needs. 1) It allows you to print 2 models at a time at speeds not quite as fast as Bambu Labs but way faster than average, in the same it takes to print 1 at those speeds. 2) It allows you to use different materials on the same print, like PETG and PLA, which don't bond well so they act as great support material for one another but can't be used together on the X1 or P1P because of the different bed and hot end temperatures required. 3) It allows you to mix two colors or filaments without requiring a prime tower, though even a small primer tower can be helpful. This one will produce way less waste for two color prints than Bambu Labs. Since getting this printer, I have also purchased both an X1 and a P1P and there are many situations where the J1 just makes the most sense.
I printed a technical part how needed letters on it. 500 filament switches with the X1C = 500 * 90s = 12.5h. J1 5s for a Switch = 0.7h 😂 And it can print TPU directly to a ABS part in one go too. Ordered a J1 now. There are on sale for 900€ and the new hotends are available end of Mai.
Thank you for the video. Looking for the STL for the collapsable light sabre and am not seeing it in the description. It was said the link would be provided. Thanks,
You're right! Not sure how I missed that but the links are there now. Here's the link specifically to the saber shown in this video: thangs.com/designer/models/3d-model/64993
That's definitely faster (I bought one, and a P1P, since making this video) but this is still the fastest Independent Dual Extruder printer out there.For those that need or want two extruders, this thing flies.
@@The3DPrintingZone yea and it's a bed slinger I didn't realize that when I saw the video. The X1 has been great I just started in 3D printing got over 100 hours on machine without a single failure because of printer I had 1 but was my fault for not using glue stick
Most slicers will let you pick your material for the support interface, which is what I use. I have a roll of PVA that has lasted me forever because I only use a tiny bit for each print that uses supports. Once the interface dissolves you just pull the rest of the support away, you don't have to use PVA for the entire support
Instead of using water souluble filament as support material, I've seen others use PETG for supports when using PLA for the main filament and vise versa. Might be somthing worth trying with a dual extruder setup.
From what videos I have seen PETG for support doesn't seem to work so well. I would think PETG for main item and PLA for support would be better.
I've seen the same thing! I definitely need to try that. From what I've seen you can go either direction with that, which is really cool.
I've use both materials for support with the other the main printed part and worked well but can't compare to soluable filament as I didnt try that. 0mm gap so printed directly on top of the suport.
They're absolutely still working out bugs and kinks, but these machines are no longer fresh off the press.
Sadly it seems that customers have all been beta testers as has been a pretty universal problem with Snapmaker's products over the years.
I'd love to buy one of these and have been keeping a close eye on it since release, but every day it seems another fundamental hardware flaw is found by the early buyers, and they've *still* not released their source for Marlin as used on the printer so even software bugs cannot be fixed by the community.
Backup mode is when extruder 1 finish filament, and you continue printing with extruder 2. Oh, right, you figured out... :D
The white im sure didn't print properly because you didn't calibrate the z offset for it. I have the SV04 idex. You have to manually adjust it to match the first extruder
So i have had my J1 siting in tbe box , brand new since Jan 2023. My kids and i have been prinint with it for about 2 weeks now.. Using Tinkercad , not yet understand Prusa slicers .. We save the 3d model onto our file on desktop and then open it with Snapmakers Cura.. then send to machine for print.. Must be an easier way? Prusa slicer isnt working with our J1.. also can this machine print Nylon and other harder spools with just changing nozzles?
350 definitely sounds fast - but it'd have been cool to see more than just a few seconds of "live" real-time footage of the printer printing at that speed.
my Delta FDM printer is advertised with "up to 90mm/s", but I've been afraid to go beyond half of that honestly 😅
I have the same printer and it did make the shark mouth open, but one of the teeth came out. No biggie though. do you know how to resume a project, deleting one of the pieces, if one of the pieces messed up?
Got my J1 from the kickstarter, I've had bed levelling issues, and that might be why you experienced your first print detaching from the bed.
After buying the Snakmaker A350, I am never going to my Snapmaker again. It looks excellent on print, but getting good prints off it is almost impossible. Their support is only a little help, although they do answer. I bought a Prusa i3 instead, and that thing is just truckin' on making perfect print after perfect print :D
We have an A 350 at work, surprised that my boss choose them it does seem very well made with a very solid structure. They print extremely well as long as you don’t mind waiting 3 days for a print to finish.
11/28/23 Having a hard time finding a slicer program that works with my J1. Cura is only showing other models or Makerbot printers that are compatible. Also left extruder screen options is a huge open page of info, but then the right side extrudee option minimal.
How do you do the to colors and use both extruders? Only time im able to do so , is when i use already preinstalles files like the shark.. or from someone STL i downloaded which already requires 2 colors in the model..
Guess ill need to look into the water desolving support. Huge learning curve .
"The Fastest IDEX 3D Printer You Can Buy" Really? I didn't see anything in this video to support that claim. No real time print clips with sound, no clips showing how fast it is, just you talking next to an idle printer.
Talking head RUclipsr are useless
Yet you couldn't even offer a potential contender in your whinging? Sad little dudes gonna sad little dude. 🤷🤣🤣🤣
Preview is the thumbnail plugin in cura. It will however screw up any estimates on print length as not many printers can interpret the gcode for the thumbnail as such so they think those are print instructions
I've watched this video many times. Now it's 2/17/24 and now my J1 has a clog.. looking for a video review on how to properly take stuck filament out from hot ends.
You are wrong about speed actually. I have 3 of 5 printers that never print below 150mm/s . Sometimes up to 250.
you have to slice with cura with the widget thing installed or there own slicer luban it wont work with prusa slicer... for the images.
Just trying to figure out why you would buy this when you can get a Bambu Labs Carbon X1 with four colors for a bit more? Very fast and more colors....
This one fills different needs.
1) It allows you to print 2 models at a time at speeds not quite as fast as Bambu Labs but way faster than average, in the same it takes to print 1 at those speeds.
2) It allows you to use different materials on the same print, like PETG and PLA, which don't bond well so they act as great support material for one another but can't be used together on the X1 or P1P because of the different bed and hot end temperatures required.
3) It allows you to mix two colors or filaments without requiring a prime tower, though even a small primer tower can be helpful. This one will produce way less waste for two color prints than Bambu Labs.
Since getting this printer, I have also purchased both an X1 and a P1P and there are many situations where the J1 just makes the most sense.
I printed a technical part how needed letters on it.
500 filament switches with the X1C = 500 * 90s = 12.5h.
J1 5s for a Switch = 0.7h 😂
And it can print TPU directly to a ABS part in one go too.
Ordered a J1 now. There are on sale for 900€ and the new hotends are available end of Mai.
Thank you for the video. Looking for the STL for the collapsable light sabre and am not seeing it in the description. It was said the link would be provided. Thanks,
You're right! Not sure how I missed that but the links are there now. Here's the link specifically to the saber shown in this video: thangs.com/designer/models/3d-model/64993
i love my J1 .. its awesome! worth the price- and perfect for my kids who are now in Robotics club.
Can you do a Video explaining Dual "Z" Axis off set?
still trying to figure out how to use 2 color at the same times.. my daughter wants to make a panda.
What firmware
Open or closed (proprietary) firmware?
It’s Marlin and open source now. Getting my printer this week. It’s for sale now. 900€ and new hotends available end of Mai how should not clog.
i send the STL with wifi from laptop
Nice ad video.
Bambu X1 Carbon. 500mm
That's definitely faster (I bought one, and a P1P, since making this video) but this is still the fastest Independent Dual Extruder printer out there.For those that need or want two extruders, this thing flies.
@@The3DPrintingZone yea and it's a bed slinger I didn't realize that when I saw the video. The X1 has been great I just started in 3D printing got over 100 hours on machine without a single failure because of printer
I had 1 but was my fault for not using glue stick
@@stealtheo , the J1 is not a bed slinger. It is a coreXY with the bed going only up and down.
$999 now. 3-22-2024