Can't wait to see the build and dyno run video! Is it available yet? Recently got my first 7.3 a couple months ago, so I'm drinking from a fire hose trying to learn all I can about them. Love your site and all the helpful videos! THANK YOU!🙌
Great video! Right now I'm trying to source a first gen super duty (1998-2007 F250 or F350, crew cab, 4x4, long bed) to rebuild with my daughter. Once I get one, I'll probably be scheduling that call!
Thank you so much for this video. This is exactly the same build I'm doing right now. I have a few more parts on order and will be pulling the engine out soon.
Stock turbo, wicked wheel two which boosts 40psi. TS 6 position tuner. 3"down pipe to 4"(no muffler) stage 1 injectors. Super duty inner cooler. On a '95. Done
This is a great kind of a walkthrough video but I've got some dumb questions about my own truck, a 1995 7.3. How far can I go before committing to changing over from T3i to T4 and what will it do with original valve train? I'm a bit budget conscious with this and don't know if 450+ hp is a must have number for my setup and usage in my application.
You stated in the video that you had done a video on the CNC Fabrication HPOP before and after. Can you provide a link to that? I cannot find it in your video list.
Do you recommend installing the Irate fuel system to use with 180/30 FFD injectors and KC300X stage 2 turbo? I was looking to add a basic regulated return setup to mine once the 180/30's were installed, but I noticed my stock fuel bowl is now leaking and it's much harder to start with the new injectors (which I expected). Trying to determine if I should go the whole nine yards with the fuel system or just stick with a basic regulated return.
You may want to fix the fuel leak at the bowl because it really shouldn't be much harder to start with 180 injectors. I did the irate fuel system for the 205 injectors I just installed
Nice to see current content for the 7.3, most content i have found is older than 6 months and not really relevant to today's technology. I have an '03 F250 SD XLT CCSB, 101,000 original miles, truck is showroom condition, a Unicorn for sure. Looking to beef up the dead spots and keep it a peppy daily driver with future possibility of towing RV Trailer (25' - 37') now and then. Current mileage averages 14mpg and it is bone stock. Ordering a Hydra this week, shopping for price and support options, but wanting to go a little more :). The powdered rods are said to fail when HP reaches 450 - 500, what would you recommend for the powdered rod trucks? Thanks.
@@1023DieselFleet I agree as well, and not by experience but by research results. I installed my Hydra yesterday and wow, what a difference. Running the 65 Fuel Sipper mode now and the pesky 'deadspots' I had, with the non-responsive throttle response through 30-50 mph, is noticeably gone. I met Bill at PHP Friday, he was an hour and a half away, so I drove over, and I liked his Team's Face to Face Customer Sevice, I like the old ways. Anyways, I took my time, and about 2 hours of tinkering, I had the Hydra programmed and installed. Totally amazed. I think I will stick to this for a while, until I start towing at least, that may be where is start seeing some gaps. Wicked wheel, EBPV delete may be my next goals. Thanks for your reply @1023 Diesel, been to your site and have a couple of items ear marked.
Real quick question, if I buy a superduty 4 inch dp, will it just straight up not fit on an obs? Or would it take some intense "persuasion" to make it fit? Asking for a friend 😉
Should I look into getting the S&B cold air intake for a 2002 ford 7.3 I have no major upgrades yet just bigger injectors and a bigger turbo, but I do plan on doing a lot more, I’m looking for speed and a equal power set up
There are not any single or even a few modifications that need to be done, you need a very well built transmission intended for use at that power level. This usually costs between $5k and $6k.
It is a worse engine if you need to make a lot of power, the 2001-2003 engines have what is commonly referred to as Powedered Metal Rods" which can nto reliably handle more than about 400HP to the ground.
Great vedeo and looks great kit for my 2001 excursión 7.3 👏👌👍 you have more 1susbscriber 👍 I would like put a little bit more power because I pulling a bigger caravan and not for driving hi speed just for climbing good on this mountains up there 😀 cheers from North of Norway
Want more power and reliability? 12 valve swap. 7.3 is not a very good base and Mpg is trash too . To each there own tho. When I go threw my 2 spare long blocks for my f350 it is getting a 12 valve for sure.
Why do you think you’ll go through motors? It’s well known how solid of a motor the 7.3 is. Also if you just swap your average 12 valve in you’ll take a big hit in power, drive ability and fuel mileage.
I don't think so. In comparison to my buddys same 94 f350 4 door but with a 12 valve swap he eats me up on hills and doesn't overheat at all on top of 24 hwy and 18 towing mpg when I am lucky to get 16 mpg out of my 7.3. I am single wheel he is dualy 4x4. The 7.3s take more money to achieve reliable power that a cummins comes stock with. I have 200k hard miles on my current engine in my welding rig and it has a slight knock but still runs tits and my spare has 72k miles on it sitting in a crate. Like I said to each there own but a 12v swap is worth it in the long run.
@@zacharybaldrige3047 it sounds like you have an issue with your 7.3. Especially if it’s knocking at only 200k miles. However most of these trucks last a very long time with no major issues. As far as power goes the absolute most power a 12 valve came with stock was 175 hp (at the crank) in the p-pumped 5 speed models (160 if you had an automatic) meanwhile super duty 7.3’s came with 275 hp (at the crank) and even the obs 7.3’s came with 210hp. Nothing wrong with 12 valves they’re great motors but the dollar to power just isn’t there compared to a 7.3 even without considering the cost of swapping it into the truck. A simple larger air filter and a good tune on a 7.3 and you’re reliably cranking out over 300hp (at the wheels)
After owning a 7.3, a 6.0, a 5.9 cummins, another 7.3, and now a 3.5 ecoboost f150, I concur. If you need a workhorse that will go 500k+ miles and don't mind slowing down on the hills when towing, the 7.3 is for you. A tuner, EGT gauge, intake, exhaust and turbo wheel is enough to wake up the 7.3 quite a bit, but anything more gets expensive fast. If you want a very fast truck and don't need to tow more than 8-12k lbs, check out the ecoboost f150s. My 2019 3.5 ecoboost f150 makes about 430rwhp and 560tq with only a tune and weighs 5100lbs. It makes >90% torque from 1800-5400rpm. It is a 4x4 crewcab truck that out-accelerates most v8 cars. It does 0-60mph in 4.3 seconds. The v6 ecoboosts are built a lot tougher than people give them credit for. Both the 2.7 and 3.5 ecoboosts use 6-bolt mains and beefy, forged rods. They do not have low-tension piston rings, which is why many modern engines burn oil, while ecoboosts rarely burn oil, even at higher mileage. They don't blow head gaskets, even at 700rwhp with full bolt-ons, running e85. My eventual goal is 600rwhp with some bolt-ons and conservative e85 tuning and 480rwhp on 91 octane. It's a blast to drive and only cost me 35k (47.5k msrp) brand new in 2019. I had also received a generous offer for my 7.3. It made financial sense for me at the time and I still love my redneck ferrari, although I'm not expecting more than 200k miles before needing a new $5-8k engine, which wouldn't be unreasonable.
@Brandon N the whole point of a 7.3 is the heaviness. It's doable to make them fast its just most people go the p pump route and won't expand the heui system
When you go from watching 200+hp per litre cars to 62hp per litre trucks and you see as much hardware as a Subaru build. Might as well toss a coyote in there.
200 hp on gasoline on 2000lb car is different to 200 hp on high volume diesel . with 200hp on gasoline you wont haul 20k lb for 100 000 miles day to day,it will last 5000 miles and blow itself up,with high volume(durable) diesel you get it done which is main purpose . if you make comparisions do it apple to apple.
Can't wait to see the build and dyno run video! Is it available yet? Recently got my first 7.3 a couple months ago, so I'm drinking from a fire hose trying to learn all I can about them. Love your site and all the helpful videos!
THANK YOU!🙌
Great video! Right now I'm trying to source a first gen super duty (1998-2007 F250 or F350, crew cab, 4x4, long bed) to rebuild with my daughter. Once I get one, I'll probably be scheduling that call!
Thank you so much for this video. This is exactly the same build I'm doing right now. I have a few more parts on order and will be pulling the engine out soon.
Very much looking forwards to this build series!
Great video and I’m sure will answered a lot of people questions now and in the future. Thank you!
$70,0000 CHEAPER THAN A NEW 6.7 .
Stock turbo, wicked wheel two which boosts 40psi. TS 6 position tuner. 3"down pipe to 4"(no muffler) stage 1 injectors. Super duty inner cooler. On a '95. Done
That is a great simple setup and works for lots of people
How much hp?
CNC fab stage 2 pump . Great customer service and product support as well .
Just picked up a 2000 excursion with the 7.3. now to plan a build lol
Well, I’m excited to see this!
My 7.3 Excursion has a 4" down pipe. I had to eliminate the transmission dipstick tube to make it fit.
Link for the HPOP video you reference??? Trying to determine the health of my HPOP and it would help.
This is a great kind of a walkthrough video but I've got some dumb questions about my own truck, a 1995 7.3. How far can I go before committing to changing over from T3i to T4 and what will it do with original valve train? I'm a bit budget conscious with this and don't know if 450+ hp is a must have number for my setup and usage in my application.
No you can definitely achieve higher power than 450 with what you have i would go with a stags 2 kc turbo completely drop in and will push 450
If you want more they have a stage 3 too drop in i went with a stage 2 you can still tow well with that set up
What kind of PSI numbers should one see on this setup?
Great video Dusty. Shits about to get lit!
Absolutely Feckin Awesome
I see some parts listed in desceiption but not all.. do you have a parts list to start buying them
Anybody quoting torque, horse power means nothing to me.
Bout 1200 ft pound
Makes it like a new truck without the emissions shit on it
How much is the complete T4 kit? How much would you estimate it should cost to have installed at a shop? Thanks
did you do anything to transmission, driveshaft, and rear end?
You stated in the video that you had done a video on the CNC Fabrication HPOP before and after. Can you provide a link to that? I cannot find it in your video list.
I'm looking for this video as well
I’m getting ready to build my own intercooler set up on my bosses 95 7.3.
Do you recommend installing the Irate fuel system to use with 180/30 FFD injectors and KC300X stage 2 turbo? I was looking to add a basic regulated return setup to mine once the 180/30's were installed, but I noticed my stock fuel bowl is now leaking and it's much harder to start with the new injectors (which I expected). Trying to determine if I should go the whole nine yards with the fuel system or just stick with a basic regulated return.
Exactly my situation I had a riff raff reg return already, just got ffd 180s with a hydra chip it's loud like it's not getting enough fuel
You may want to fix the fuel leak at the bowl because it really shouldn't be much harder to start with 180 injectors. I did the irate fuel system for the 205 injectors I just installed
@@andrewhammes1183 I decided to go with the Irate fuel kit that has the fuel bowl delete. I was not a fan of the stock fuel bowl setup.
Can u use a different intake then the blue one
Nice to see current content for the 7.3, most content i have found is older than 6 months and not really relevant to today's technology. I have an '03 F250 SD XLT CCSB, 101,000 original miles, truck is showroom condition, a Unicorn for sure. Looking to beef up the dead spots and keep it a peppy daily driver with future possibility of towing RV Trailer (25' - 37') now and then. Current mileage averages 14mpg and it is bone stock. Ordering a Hydra this week, shopping for price and support options, but wanting to go a little more :).
The powdered rods are said to fail when HP reaches 450 - 500, what would you recommend for the powdered rod trucks?
Thanks.
@@1023DieselFleet I agree as well, and not by experience but by research results. I installed my Hydra yesterday and wow, what a difference. Running the 65 Fuel Sipper mode now and the pesky 'deadspots' I had, with the non-responsive throttle response through 30-50 mph, is noticeably gone. I met Bill at PHP Friday, he was an hour and a half away, so I drove over, and I liked his Team's Face to Face Customer Sevice, I like the old ways.
Anyways, I took my time, and about 2 hours of tinkering, I had the Hydra programmed and installed. Totally amazed. I think I will stick to this for a while, until I start towing at least, that may be where is start seeing some gaps. Wicked wheel, EBPV delete may be my next goals. Thanks for your reply @1023 Diesel, been to your site and have a couple of items ear marked.
Video of the before and after of the HPOP?
Sence price is relatively similar from 450hp to 550hp what supporting mods would it take to do the 550hp kit and still have reliability
Is there a shop that would install all that on my 2000 f350 4x4 7.3
So I have the normal fuel system if my pump goes out can I just swap a fuel lab into it
Same turbo that’s on my grand national
Real quick question, if I buy a superduty 4 inch dp, will it just straight up not fit on an obs? Or would it take some intense "persuasion" to make it fit? Asking for a friend 😉
Gotta beat the firewall a decent bit to fit it.
Exotic head studs are available I’m running a set on my 6.7 powerstroke
I’m wanting to do this build on early 1999 f250 I want to price this package from you thanks
I've heard only good stuff about xotic head studs if anyone is looking for more than good enough studs for half the arp price.
Can I get a link to all those parts please
How much kit ?
Should I look into getting the S&B cold air intake for a 2002 ford 7.3 I have no major upgrades yet just bigger injectors and a bigger turbo, but I do plan on doing a lot more, I’m looking for speed and a equal power set up
Can you drop a link for that Fuel lab fuel pump kit my brother ? I can’t seem to find it
This is the fuel lab complete system mentioned in the kit: 1023diesel.com/idp-competition-fuel-system-94-03-7-3l/
We do not stock the Pump itself
Send us an email or give us a call, be happy to talk over the build
What was the rough overall price in parts for this
What upgrades are needed to the 4R100 stock auto transmission?
There are not any single or even a few modifications that need to be done, you need a very well built transmission intended for use at that power level. This usually costs between $5k and $6k.
Is there a build series of videos on all this ?
We were only abel to finish one video on this!
Here it is: ruclips.net/video/xgcMNULfXwo/видео.html
Is a 2002 a worse engine than a 2000? Just curious about what was said around the 3:30 -3:45 mark
It is a worse engine if you need to make a lot of power, the 2001-2003 engines have what is commonly referred to as Powedered Metal Rods" which can nto reliably handle more than about 400HP to the ground.
Where are you located
I put 205 30s stage 2 kc and ill be able to get 475 500 i wanted to be able to still pull with it the 80s egts get alot higher
Great vedeo and looks great kit for my 2001 excursión 7.3 👏👌👍 you have more 1susbscriber 👍 I would like put a little bit more power because I pulling a bigger caravan and not for driving hi speed just for climbing good on this mountains up there 😀 cheers from North of Norway
Roughly what is the cost of all the parts?
7-10k give or take.
You can find a lot of parts other than brand new, I'm about 3.5k in essentially similar setup
@@therealaustinbrown2712 you don’t buy a 7.3 to go fast it’s like shoveling Shit against the Tide
@@dannysavagedraftguru why are you on here? Lol the video title has 500hp 7.3 in it. LOL
Wanna do somthing like this to my 92 f350
Clicked off video at 3:45 in. Damn pmr rods.... Damn them to hell.
I also got a 2001 7.3 motor for sale. Has 110000 miles on it. Motors complete. 4500
Where u located and is engine still available
Your down pipe elbow has perpendicular faces. It is not a 45º, it is a 90º.
Want more power and reliability? 12 valve swap. 7.3 is not a very good base and Mpg is trash too . To each there own tho. When I go threw my 2 spare long blocks for my f350 it is getting a 12 valve for sure.
Why do you think you’ll go through motors? It’s well known how solid of a motor the 7.3 is. Also if you just swap your average 12 valve in you’ll take a big hit in power, drive ability and fuel mileage.
I don't think so. In comparison to my buddys same 94 f350 4 door but with a 12 valve swap he eats me up on hills and doesn't overheat at all on top of 24 hwy and 18 towing mpg when I am lucky to get 16 mpg out of my 7.3. I am single wheel he is dualy 4x4. The 7.3s take more money to achieve reliable power that a cummins comes stock with. I have 200k hard miles on my current engine in my welding rig and it has a slight knock but still runs tits and my spare has 72k miles on it sitting in a crate. Like I said to each there own but a 12v swap is worth it in the long run.
@@zacharybaldrige3047 it sounds like you have an issue with your 7.3. Especially if it’s knocking at only 200k miles. However most of these trucks last a very long time with no major issues. As far as power goes the absolute most power a 12 valve came with stock was 175 hp (at the crank) in the p-pumped 5 speed models (160 if you had an automatic) meanwhile super duty 7.3’s came with 275 hp (at the crank) and even the obs 7.3’s came with 210hp. Nothing wrong with 12 valves they’re great motors but the dollar to power just isn’t there compared to a 7.3 even without considering the cost of swapping it into the truck. A simple larger air filter and a good tune on a 7.3 and you’re reliably cranking out over 300hp (at the wheels)
703 likes 🎉
I need help with my hydra chip..
Hey Dusty you learn how to tune a stock truck yet? 😂🤡
You don’t buy a 7.3 to go fast
After owning a 7.3, a 6.0, a 5.9 cummins, another 7.3, and now a 3.5 ecoboost f150, I concur. If you need a workhorse that will go 500k+ miles and don't mind slowing down on the hills when towing, the 7.3 is for you. A tuner, EGT gauge, intake, exhaust and turbo wheel is enough to wake up the 7.3 quite a bit, but anything more gets expensive fast.
If you want a very fast truck and don't need to tow more than 8-12k lbs, check out the ecoboost f150s. My 2019 3.5 ecoboost f150 makes about 430rwhp and 560tq with only a tune and weighs 5100lbs. It makes >90% torque from 1800-5400rpm. It is a 4x4 crewcab truck that out-accelerates most v8 cars. It does 0-60mph in 4.3 seconds.
The v6 ecoboosts are built a lot tougher than people give them credit for. Both the 2.7 and 3.5 ecoboosts use 6-bolt mains and beefy, forged rods. They do not have low-tension piston rings, which is why many modern engines burn oil, while ecoboosts rarely burn oil, even at higher mileage. They don't blow head gaskets, even at 700rwhp with full bolt-ons, running e85. My eventual goal is 600rwhp with some bolt-ons and conservative e85 tuning and 480rwhp on 91 octane.
It's a blast to drive and only cost me 35k (47.5k msrp) brand new in 2019. I had also received a generous offer for my 7.3. It made financial sense for me at the time and I still love my redneck ferrari, although I'm not expecting more than 200k miles before needing a new $5-8k engine, which wouldn't be unreasonable.
@Brandon N the whole point of a 7.3 is the heaviness. It's doable to make them fast its just most people go the p pump route and won't expand the heui system
When you go from watching 200+hp per litre cars to 62hp per litre trucks and you see as much hardware as a Subaru build. Might as well toss a coyote in there.
200 hp on gasoline on 2000lb car is different to 200 hp on high volume diesel . with 200hp on gasoline you wont haul 20k lb for 100 000 miles day to day,it will last 5000 miles and blow itself up,with high volume(durable) diesel you get it done which is main purpose . if you make comparisions do it apple to apple.
I mean there is the 6.4s lol, just throw it in the 300hp tune and let it eat until it sends a piston to the diesel gods