I used to use a couple of straight edges one on top and one on bottom of the tubes find out where the strings located. You can get them really really close by eyeballing.
I wonder if there would be a way to make a small aluminum bracket with a pointer on the “business end” that projects over to the bolt head to close that 1” distance. It would need to hang level onto the string being counterbalanced. Maybe a laser that shoots a level line across the string and onto the bolt head to be able to see where it crosses.
Air Dave Amazing how accurate you have to be in this setup. Never knew it was so tight tolerance. I have a 14-19-3a 1966 model. Was just trying to figure out a way to project that level line across the string to the bolt head. Watched the earlier video of the main heat where it’s closer. Just throwing out ideas to see if they stick. Great work!!
Dave this a great contribution to the community’s fund of knowledge. Excellent video.
The knowledge you have on all of this truly amazes me!
I used to use a couple of straight edges one on top and one on bottom of the tubes find out where the strings located. You can get them really really close by eyeballing.
I wonder if there would be a way to make a small aluminum bracket with a pointer on the “business end” that projects over to the bolt head to close that 1” distance. It would need to hang level onto the string being counterbalanced.
Maybe a laser that shoots a level line across the string and onto the bolt head to be able to see where it crosses.
There are at lease 3 different drag strut configurations.
Air Dave Amazing how accurate you have to be in this setup. Never knew it was so tight tolerance. I have a 14-19-3a 1966 model.
Was just trying to figure out a way to project that level line across the string to the bolt head.
Watched the earlier video of the main heat where it’s closer. Just throwing out ideas to see if they stick. Great work!!