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- Опубликовано: 15 мар 2018
- New! ralphbacon.blog
So you might want to control some mains electrical (or lower voltage) item using your phone, perhaps? This single ESP8266 plug-in controls a relay that is built into the module.
An Android app (.apk) allows you to configure the relay to switch on and off (toggle) or have a momentary action. All well and good then. Well, **not really**. Watch the video to find out what they did wrong and how a small Arduino (eg Nano or even an ATTiney85) comes to the rescue!
The Arduino sketch is right here in the Github repository (simple would be too complex a word to describe it!).
github.com/RalphBacon/ESP8266...
Where I bought my device (Banggood)
www.aliexpress.com/item/ESP82...
Manufacturer's Webpages
www.chinalctech.com/index.php?... (this 5v relay)
www.chinalctech.com/index.php?... (all their WiFI relays)
Hackster.io page that walks you through the steps to configure it (thanks Graham Wise)
www.hackster.io/makerrelay/es...
Excellent wepages on ESP8266 and AT commands
/ getting-started-with-e...
room-15.github.io/blog/2015/03...
/ getting-started-with-e... (incl. replacement for the baud rate command)
Link to the ORIGINAL AT command firmware (from Espressif) with instructions
www.electrodragon.com/w/ESP826...
If you like this video please give it a thumbs up, share it and if you're not already subscribed please consider doing so :)
My channel and blog are here:
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/ ralphbacon
ralphbacon.blog
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Excellent, comprehensive guide to this project. I’ve not seen any of the pitfalls of this setup mentioned on any other videos anywhere. Thanks for the heads up!
Glad you liked it, thanks for posting.
Thanks for another informative video Ralph. I started playing with the ESP-01 a while ago, and found the AT commands limiting, so I installed the ESP8266 boards in Arduino, and then got a copy of Tasmota firmware, which allowed me to control the ESP-01 via MQTT with Home Assistant software (or Node-Red and so on). Once that's done, the ESP-01 will remember its settings on reboot without the need for a separate Arduino to control the boot up. Or you could just use a Sonoff switch, which has more or less the same circuitry but in a tidier package, for a few dollars more.
The Sonoff route is something I am keen on getting to grips with, MrJozza65, as that would really make this device useful.Thanks for the info on alternative solutions too. Great to hear from you.
For the record, this relay module seems to be supported by Tasmota. tasmota.github.io/docs/devices/LC-Technology-WiFi-Relay/
Very nice timing - 4 of these just arrived from China this very morning. You've saved me a ton of time. Thank you!
I don't know whether to say "Oh dear!" or "Now you know the limitations", Bruce. Or perhaps you will be the first to reprogram the ESP8266 so it "just works", like a Sonoff? Which is definitely the direction I'm headed, time permitting. Let us all know how you get on with these, yes?
As a 71 year old retired programmer that decided to get back into programming, you do a great job in quick starting anyone trying to do a restart in this field. Thank you and thank you again for your generous donation of time and sharing what you know. Respectfully, Steve - N1QDT.
CQ, CQ, this is RSB01 United Kingdom, 2 metres (that's my height, not my frequency). Anyway, I'm very glad that an experienced programmer like yourself finds my videos useful. Frankly, I just wish I was retired too but that's another story! As a programmer, you will have absolutely no difficulties getting your head around the Arduino (and related µcontrollers). Great to hear from you Steve, keep tuned (I'm just about to release a video of my [new] workshop, 7pm UK time).
Not sure if you are an amateur radio enthusiast or not. However the call sign tacked in front of the American Radio Relay League domain name @arrl.net is one of my contact emails. It just might be possible we could connect up one day because of similar interest. I have a web presence as well but this is your blog so I’ll remain in the background. Be well and respectfully, Steve
Super video, Ralph. You could have made yourself look oh so clever by simply presenting your final solution. What would we learn with that?? No, by presenting the process, warts and all, of your "faffing around", we get to learn by the process. This of course, is your raison d'etra, and given the world shortage of raisins, we are all very grateful. Thank you so much for the tremendous effort you put in to prepare this video.
My OCD forces me to suggest that an ATTiny85 could replace the Nano but given the very small difference in the price of these two devices it probably isn't worth the mustard. I suspect attempting to "add" the power up initialization to the ESP8266 firmware, is likely to lose one the AT interface (I could be wrong). A good Arduinite shouldn't be thinking "its too much work" but, rather, be focussed on putting all the spare MCU power of the Nano to work in adding glorious features to the product of the project
Nice work Ralph..
Damn, Michael, I never thought to make myself look clever just presenting the final solution, and Benny never suggested it either! A missed opportunity! If nothing else I may have prewarned others that these are not the simple IOT solution they seem to be. But that may change. Thanks for posting (and I agree that although a Tiny85 may work, it too is too much 'faffing'!)
Thank you Mr. Bacon. Another great video to expand my novice Arduino knowledge. Well done sir!
And there will be more to come on this device, Joe, read my blog post tomorrow lunchtime (UK time) to see what I plan to do! Thanks for the kind words, nice to hear from you.
Thanks Ralph for a very interesting and informative video. Cheers Erney
Thanks for your kind words, Erney Scrivens, good to hear from you.
Very interesting... and well explained. Thank you, Ralph.
Thanks for your post, Tom van Doveren, good to hear from you.
Thanks for your explanation. For a better understanding of your video, could I ask you some questions?
1. ESP relay can operate alone after I deliver AT command to ESP relay via USB-TTL. Am I right?
2. AT command also can deliver to ESP relay via Arduino Mini(Nano). Am I right?
Unfortunately I don't know the answer as I have not used AT commands. If you look at my sketch example it will show you how I have done it - it was quite a long time ago now so sthe details a bit fuzzy in my memory, sorry about that.
I'm very happy about your channel that I finally found someone who could teach Arduino. It would be greatly appreciated if you would build the next video on tft displays. Directly interested in their display of the previous video {{{# 83 Color Touch Screen TFT LCD for your Arduino - Cheap}}}}
Glad you like the channel, Lauris, and I'll add the TFT request to my long list of potential videos to do! And don't forget to look at my new blog, ralphbacon.blog, it might be an interesting 5-minute read! Thanks for posting.
Hello Ralph, that would have been a nice add on to my heating system, as i have build a homemade pellet burner for heating up my house using an arduino micro.I wouldn't have done this without any help as i started programming a couple of years ago, so does it really worth the effort? That would depend i guess on the user!
No, as it stands, Vasilis, it's too much 'faffing' as many, many others have already stated here! But I can reprogram the ESP8266 then it will be a great device. We shall see. Thanks for the post.
Ralph, thank you for the great video. I set up my module to be an access point using the AT commands. I want to switch and use STA now but That program won’t let me make the serial connect to send more AT commands. It says that the comport is in use or doesn’t exist. Any ideas on what the problem might be? Thank you in advance.
If you are using Windows you can see any ports by firing up Device Manager and opening the Ports bit, if there are any. That is the first step.
Can you use a setup like this to reverse polarity e.g. to give a motor the ability to go forward, reverse and off?
Usually, to control motors we use a motor controller, Stefan, (see video #102) but if you just wanted a motor to switch on, either forward or backwards at full throttle I guess this might work for you (but it must be a double pole relay as you need to switch both wires to the motor). Not so sure about getting it to stop though. The power is being switched one way or the other, not off. Tricky.
I'm at the point with my Arduino development where I need my UNO/Mega project to be internet connected. Mindful there there's been wifi shields for years now I went looking for them only to find that a lot of them are no longer made. Then I stumble upon the ESP8266 and ESP32... which apparently are not just wifi shields but Arduinos in thier own right.. very powerful ones too. So I'm not sure which way to turn now. A lot of my sensor logic for my project is 5v... the ESPs are 3.3v... so if I *just* use the ESP then I have a problem there. If I use the UNO for my sensors and the ESP *just* for wifi it feels like one hell of a waste....
And many would agree that just using an ESP8266 for WiFi is a bit of a waste, John.
I've covered LAN shields for the UNO in video #74, but that's a wired (very reliable) connection. The ESP8266 can be used pretty much as an Arduino ATmega328P (Uno) board but as you say it would then require voltage (level) shifters for some external devices. I covered the ESP8266 WiFi capabilities in video #33.
I even have a board (UNO sized) that has BOTH an Uno chip and an ESP8266 on it!
I would say that maybe you should get an ESP8266 board (like the Wemos D1 v2) and experiment a bit. My next video will be on the Mini version of that board - could be of interest?
Could i put a question to you? I am struggling to drive a simple 5v relay from a esp2866 nodemcu. i can set it up and run the gpio web control sketch and control an led but it will not trigger the relay the relay is active low or high so i can trigger it using 5v or 3.3 or ground to the in pin but the esp will not trigger it. i suspect its due to the voltage coming out of the nodemcu. how can i boost the signal coming out of the gpio pin to trigger the relay?
You shouldn't need to boost it, Gary. If there really is insufficient voltage for your relay then you're possibly using the wrong relay. But there are two ways of achieving what you want. One is to use a small transistor to switch the relay and the GPIO pin to switch the transistor, or, safer is to use an opto coupled relay, see video #18. If you get stuck ping me and I'll send you a circuit diagram when i return to the UK next week.
Nice and useful tutorial 👍
Thank you! Cheers!
Is there anyway I can flash this module and make it work with Amazon Alexa using MQTT? Without using any AT commands.
An ESP8266 module can run Tasmota, which supports all the things you are talking about. Look at Peter Scargill's website, he is the guru of all things Home Automation: tech.scargill.net/ and he also has several RUclips videos that explain it all. Good Luck.
Hi, Ralph, I think I will just use my Sonoff this all looks a bit convoluted just to turn one relay on off?
As it stands, Bob, I'd totally agree. That said, I've already written a new sketch for the ESP8266-01 and I'm on to the phone app, trying to make that a bit more user-friendly and simple. Assuming I have success (I know, never assume) then these devices will be a perfect Sonos alternative. We shall see!
Another option to get this to work is using the Blynk app, it is for both apple and android. You then set up a virtual pin that will send the AT commands to toggle the relay. This way you program the esp8266 with arduino ide like most people are used too then add the blynk library.
Yup, everyone is singing from the same hymn sheet here, Nathan: reprogramming that pesky ESP8266 is the answer. Nice to hear from you.
Taking back my last comment as I noticed this is posted on the GitHub link. Thanks all for this leg work for us and cheers!
Phew! A bit of forward thinking there on my part! I often discover that libraries (or other information) disappear or get replaced so I try and take a snapshot of what worked at the time to avoid others getting problems.
What power supply you suggest for NodeMCU for a long term stand alone work? I used a couple of times some Chinese USB chargers with 5V/1A, but didn't last long.
I agree that some of these Chinese chargers fail quite quickly.
Firstly determine how much current your project really needs. 100mA? 500mA? 1A? Then use a power supply with double that rating (or higher, sometimes 5A PSU's are hardly any more expensive). When the Chinese rating is 1A that means for about 5 minutes, then 0.5A if you're lucky.
12v 5A supplies are often used in CCTV setups (like my own) and they have lasted so far (apart from one cheap Chinese 2A one). If you spend a little more from a reputable retailer or local supplier they will have probably been tested for longevity as they don't want unhappy customers or blown CCTV systems.
Used laptop power supplies are quite robust and you can use a buck converter to bring the voltage down to what you want.
Or, build your own PSU with a suitably rated transformer, bridge rectifier and smoothing module and a step-down buck converter which is very efficient in dropping voltage, unlike a linear voltage converter. I'm not looking right now but I bet there are dozens of decent kits out there to do this - might cost more but if the cheap ones keep failing it might make sense? What do you reckon?
Space is the problem. Some 5x5x5cm, more or less, better less... For power supply. Any thoughts for HLK-PM01?
If you watch my video #105 I look at this device and a cheaper alternative too. The cheaper device gets a "maybe" but the HLK-PM01 gets a "probably OK". That said, as you must plug the power supply into the mains somewhere, could you not build the PSU outside of the small space and just run the 5v power wire into your project?
Just checked out the doco, and the diagram shows that GPIO2 drives the relay - has anyone tried MQTT and drive the GPIO2 directly rather than the inbuilt web interface?
The relay I show here has neither GPIO-2 nor GPIO-0 connected. The comms goes via the RX/TX to the onboard µcontroller to switch the relay. The µController checks the incoming string and switches the relay on, off or doesn't do anything. In this way, further relays could have been connected to the onboard µController and different data values used for each.
The relay I show in the [Rant included] video #110 has the relay connected to GPIO-0 (with no µController in sight) but you'll see there were other hardware optimisations required to fix that unit too.
I hope this clarifies what I found?
I have 4 of those on order. They are late getting here. I did not know they were going to be a pain in the ass. I just figured they would have code on them like the Sonoffs do. Looks like I got my work cut out for me when they arrive. Thanks for the Vid.
Or perhaps you will be first who will reprogram the ESP8266 in Sonoff style? There's more than a couple of us with these devices so someone will eventually do it, could be you, Drex Projects. It's the obvious way to go. Thanks for posting, at least you now have a heads up on what these devices are like.
They arrived but they are a different style with no TX/RX pins on them. And they are 3.3 volt. Looks like I will have to program them Off-Board then insert the modules back in. Oh well.
If you watch my video on Friday (lunchtime, UK time) I suspect the ones you have are like the one I demo in that video. Yes, you will have to program using an FTDI or the *special mini adapter* board I also demo. But there are "issues" with these ESP boards too (at the risk of telling spoilers) so I do suggest you watch that video first! There is a solution, though...
Looking forward to it. Thanks.
I came across this github code. I may try it out when I have time. It is for the Wemos D1. I have a few of those. github.com/witnessmenow/esp8266-alexa-wemo-emulator/blob/master/src/WemoSwitch.h
I know this is more than a year old already, but that should mean you now know worlds more about the esp01. I seem to remember in one of your videos you were putting values into register memory on the eprom, so when the power was restored the values could be read from memory to set up everything to run right. Would that work in this case, or am I off my rocker?
Yes, Steven, the values could indeed have been written to EEPROM. I think we do this far too little. Although I used an SD card in my Home Alone project for ease of editing, off-line. But the principle is the same!
@@RalphBacon I recall a writing voltage was needed to write to an EEPROM (MC68B701, or was that Uv erasable). Is there a Tutorial for that process on the ESP01? Is the ESP01 code available?
Ralph - please forget the other commentators recommendation to "just cut to the chase" because unlike me/us who find this side of IoT very mysterious and essentially haven't got a clue etc., we DO learn far more by your faffing around!!! Now my following question might seem like oh so a fundamental one but will demonstrate my (lack of a) level of understanding in communicating with smart phones BUT I note you are using an Android phone SO how do I go about connecting this project to my iPhone 6 - is there a similar app like the android one I should use instead?? Appreciate your help and advice on this one please. Cheers from Down Under - and keep up the really great work!!!
It's a fine line I tread here: not enough detail (and "faffing") and I lose beginners trying to understand the fundamentals. Too much detail and Arduinites already up-to-speed get frustrated by me showing them how to suck eggs. But, this channel is aimed at beginners so that they become fully fledged Arduintes, so no worries, Ian - I'll keep up the detail as best I can. Thanks for posting.
I cant open in TCP-232 software in my laptop it says comport is in use or does not exit
I can only guess that the COM port you are trying to use is either not the one you should be using or you have it already connected to an Arduino Serial Monitor or something like that?
You should go with a native sketch on the ESP... that would be also very interesting...
You are not alone in suggesting that, Pierre, and something I'd like to explore, perhaps when my new workshop is completed and I have more room (and can find all my stuff!). Thanks for posting.
I have a :
AT+GMR
AT version:1.2.0.0(Jul 1 2016 20:04:45)
SDK version:1.5.4.1(39cb9a32)
Ai-Thinker Technology Co. Ltd.
Dec 2 2016 14:21:16
OK
It does not allow me to connect, it worked once but no longer. I am not able to connect anymore.
The AP is visable, I can connect the port is just not up.
If it worked once, but now does not work, then something has changed. Either the code or hardware. You must track back all the steps you took and get back to a working state. That's why it's always useful to make copies of your sketch as you progress, so you have working states. Good luck.
Did you ever get the start up to work with just the Nano using a sketch to set it up? Good luck with your move. Cheers!
Try as I might, Lee, I cannot put your question into context (well, the video was made in March 2018) and as I'm moving house this week I don't even have time to re-watch my own video. Can you give me a timestamp on the video and reword the issue I had and I'll do my best to reply.
how to send digital pin current status from arduino and receive in android app
Watch my video on Bluetooth and an Android phone: ruclips.net/video/7XdSGU_W4ho/видео.html
21:52 you used a "gabidy gook" or how would you spell that? :). Also, if i need to connect lets say 3 devices to be controlled with Nano, how the things would work? Each esp8266 has different IP, but probably the same port. Do I need to open them all and just manage the packets send and requested thru the commands?
Ha! This made me chuckle. What I said was "then we get some gobbledygook" which means an unintelligible sentence.
From Google:
noun: gobbledygook; noun: gobbledegook
language that is meaningless or is made unintelligible by excessive use of technical terms.
"reams of financial gobbledygook"
synonyms:jargon, unintelligible language, obscure language;
Origin
1940s (originally US): probably imitating a turkey's gobble.
Regarding three different relays, frankly, I would not use this board at all. You can get multiple relay boards (or four, eight etc) very cheaply, all opto-isolated. Then just use a single ESP8266 module (not an 01 as it does not expose enough pins).
If you did use multiple ESP8266-01 boards then you could even use the *same* fixed IP address but each one listens to a _different_ port for each relay, so ports 8081, 8082 and 8083 for example. If you wanted to use a different IP address then you would probably use the same port for all of them.
If you're using a Nano, then use the multiple relay boards (see video #18) and three different GPIO pins to control them. Not controllable via wifi then, of course.
Any good?
Hello! I bought an ESP 8266 -01 wifi relay whit a preloaded software. I built up my own flashing programmer and pressing the rest button I got the info that I have wrote down using Putty.
AI-THINKER & VOWSTAR, 2014
SDK version:0.9.2
mode : sta(18:fe:34:0c:73:54) + softAP(1a:fe:34:0c:73:54)
add if0
add if1
dhcp server start:(ip:192.168.4.1,mask:255.255.255.0,gw:192.168.4.1)
bcn 100
Now I am wondering… what is next?
Do I need to re-flash the firmware again or just load an ” ON OFF ” sketch?
I presume the AT communication is not working as the firmware was erased.
I have red about VOWSTAR and softAP but my option is to follow Arduino sketch application like ON OFF switch.
As I am new in this microchips and programing word I need some advice, please!
Reply
The log indicates that your device is operating as both a client (like your PC) where is says "mode:sta" and also as an Access Point where is says "mode:softAP" on address 192.168.4.1.
If you type that address into your browser you will connect to the device and may seem something appear as a webpage.
Hi. Good video. Do you know the url I should send to activate or deactivate the relay. I want develop my own app and I can't find the. Command I must send
The URL is the one _you_ make up when programming the ESP8266 as a web server. See my code again for hints on how to do this.
Hi Ralph,thanks for your vids.I wander could you tell me if its possible to connect a lcd keyboard shield to a wemos d1 and if so what pins should i use.
If you mean on of these, Paul: www.hobbytronics.co.uk/arduino-lcd-keypad-shield then you can, let me know if that's right or provide a link to the device you mean and I'll let you know.
@@RalphBacon Hi Ralph, yes that's the board but I am struggling to find the correct pins on the D1 board to get it to give me anything on the display.
What you really need for that display is to use it with a PCF8574T "backpack" (they often sell them together, sometimes already soldered, they mate onto the board precisely). Then you can use I2C (two-wire) to update the LCD, using a library, very simple to do. The switches are probably digital so need a pin each (or maybe a matrix), depends on how they are wired up.
You can find out more about the PCF8574T in this video (ruclips.net/video/kQZU8kE3ksU/видео.html ) but you don't need to know the ins and outs, just use it using I2C and it's a black box (with the library). I also show how you can create double height digits on this display here (ruclips.net/video/8ZsUcUAsL3I/видео.html ). And more here: ruclips.net/video/ohNLQdVxKOc/видео.html wow! I have used this display a lot. Any use?
@@RalphBacon Hi Ralph, thank you for your reply but I think we talking about two different lcd, the lcd that I wish to plug directly into a wemos D1 board. I am using D8, D9, D4, D5, D6, D7 and although the screen is on no charactors appear. Your help would be most usful
Do you mean the ESP8266 Wemos D1 Mini OLED shield? www.banggood.com/3Pcs-0_66-Inch-OLED-Shield-For-WeMos-D1-Mini-64X48-IIC-I2C-p-1152437.html
If not please send me a link to the screen you are talking about.
If you are, see my video #120 here ruclips.net/video/TKN9WmunCQU/видео.html
It's a bit concerning seeing the poor pcb design re the relay 240V connections and the low voltage circuitry. On my modules it would have been better if at least the relay was rotated 180deg so that the 240V connections are furthest from the low voltage side. Anyone think the isolation could cause trouble?
Using anything with mains (240V AC) from the Far East is always a bit of a risk, and you do have to be circumspect. These boards, however, seem to have stood the test of time, and so far I've not lost any subscribers 🫨.
It's probably unfair to paint all Asian main-voltage products as having a lack of safety built-in. Many do, but the cost is higher. Apple build their iPhone chargers there and the design is top-notch. But we hobbyists buy the cheapest device we can find then are "surprised" when the design does not contain the most basic safety features! Doh!
The relay doesn't have to switch mains, of course. Lower, probably DC, voltage work fine and are a good deal safer.
Alternatively, get a Sonoff Basic device, reflash it (search Google/YT for the sketch) and put the cover back on and it should be safe enough. I've done that to a mains voltage fan and it's been running for a couple of years without mishap.
@@RalphBacon Thanks for you input Ralph. My actual concern was not specifically about 'safety' rather in regard to PCB breakdown due to proximity of PCB tracks carrying 350V (peak voltage) in close proximity with tracks that are referenced to earth. I have seen older generation of PCB carbonise due to this but the current PCB technology may perform better with small track separation. The modules I have are the single channel ESP-01S-Relay-v4.0.
As you say, we only get what we pay for yet at the same time no doubt it is important to bring to light any real issue that contradicts advertised functionality as this is essentially functionality and not cost related.
On the subject of PCB design with mains voltages, I have noticed an improvement in design over the last few years of items from the Far East. Air gaps (between L and N) and proper separation of the mains (240V) side of things from the low voltage circuitry are now much more common.
It's almost as though the designers are finally recognising that their clients consider these aspects when purchasing items! 😮
The other safeguard is an official CE (in Europe) standard marking, meaning that it does at least conform to some basic safety standards - but until you have the product in your hand to inspect it is a bit of a guessing game.
Hello, So i have the same module and i have setup everything like in the video with all the drivers installed for the usb to ttl. But when i try to send AT commands to the module there is no response back even when the app prints out that the AT command is sent successfully. I am not sure if i am doing something wrong. I think i have it all setup correctly, I even checked all the connections and they were all correct and continuous.The esp8266 seems to be working since it creates an open wifi hotspot when powered.
Initially, you have access the device's web page (look on your phone's wifi settings to see if you can see a new WiFi name suddenly appear).
@@RalphBacon Hello, I can see the WiFi named AI-Thinker appear as the device boots up. Now how do I access the devices' web server.
Try these commands to set it up initially now that you know it is working as an AP:
www.instructables.com/Getting-Started-With-the-ESP8266-ESP-01/
@@RalphBacon thanks! I will try that.
Thank you for nice video.It was really helpful. Please can you guide me, how can I sent direct Open and close command to relay.HEX A00101A2 and HEX A00100A1.I need to operate relay with time delay.Not required through android app.
Sorry, Chaminda, I can't create bespoke code, you will have to use Google as someone will have done that before, I'm sure.
@Ralph - is it absolute necessary to provide backup to esp-01? I believe it has microcontroller in it which should have the said code/settings.
The ESP8266 (of the ESP-01 module) has, I believe, quite a lot of EEPROM memory (4Mb?) that would be fine to back up the settings to. They could be read on startup to configure the device. If that's what you mean, Varun?
@@RalphBacon yes. But in my case even if i flash esp01 with any code relay still keeps blinking on very fast speed
It sounds like you are not flashing the ESP01 at all - are you _sure_ the code is being accepted and you are not just flashing the device you're using as a programmer?
@@RalphBacon it does flash ESP01. I can see a webserver running on local IP and can interact to it as well. Have recorded the video too ruclips.net/video/a9M-PvHbKFU/видео.html
ESP01 works well when its standalone.. but with relay, the relay doesnt work even if I am using serial commands
how many meters that the wireless coverage we get ?????
How long is a piece of string?
Range is always affected by your use of the product and its location: outdoors in free air, indoors behind several thick concrete walls... we've all had occasions where our phone signal disappears inside a supermarket, right?
In free air, the (expected) range is quoted in the datasheet, although they depends on what sort of antenna you are using (the built in PCB antenna is not great, and external antenna is much better).
I would expect a range of several tens of metres using the built-in PCB antenna but until you try one you will never know. In open air, line-of-sight with a decent antenna perhaps even 250m. But as I say, you need to try one out if the range is critical to your project.
Can i safety upgrade it relay to 20A?
Interesting question, Aleksy, and a pertinent one too, as the 10A is probably not 10A at all, more like 6 or 7A rating. If you can safely desolder the existing relay you could use another one, but the physical size of a larger relay may prevent you from doing that. Personally, I would create my own relay board but still use this ES8266 device with my own code - after all, it is merely driving a GPIO pin high on receipt of a valid signal. It all depends on your capabilities. Also, see video #110 for a simpler relay board.
Can you still interact with the device without a home network?
Yes, the device can act as an access point (ie its own network).
Hi Great video.very well explained.. I've folowed your procedure but still not getting the relay to trigger. I can see the ESP is getting the command (blue let blinks) but the relay doesn't trigger. I am using the A0 01 01 A2 as the message. I can see in the USR program that its receiving data ( 0D 0A 2B 49 50 44 2C 30 2C 34 3A A0 01 01 A2) Suggestions??
Regards
Meir
I haven't forgotten you, Meir, but I need more time to look at this and I'm working for the next two days. Leave it with me and I'll look at it over the weekend. Unless you discover the solution first, that is!
Hi.. Thanks for your response...Take your time.. Its been sitting on my desk for awhile .. another couple days won't hurt :)
Try different baud rates. 115200 worked for me
Is the code for the Android App, EasyTCP_20.apk, available? I have a Samsung tablet and my application needs about 25 controllable devices (each with it's own ESP01 and relay), so I would like to use a tablet for more graphic space and icons that relate to my application, namely a garden railroad that has that many turnouts. Also, bringing back the status of a pair of contacts to the tablet App for display is a need. How many spare GPIO pins are left? (If not enough, a second ESP01 at each station would work as well). I do have many decades of Fortran, C and assembly language experience, with Visual Basic added recently. Appreciations in advanced.
I've now added this to my GitHub for this video, Gene, you can find it here:
github.com/RalphBacon/ESP8266-WiFi-Relay
Awesome, thank you!
Thanks for your post, رامي قباني, good to hear from you.
Is there a GSM/GPRS Relay module or do i need to make one ?
I'm not entirely sure what you mean by a GPRS Relay, Bozo Jimmy. If you explain it a bit I might be able to help.
@@RalphBacon In your example we have a Wifi modue on the same board as the relay. Do we have any readymade boards with GSM/GPRS module on the same board as relay ?
AT commands are certainly from the 70''s / 80"s but are still very valid today. All GSM modules work this way even implementing GPS and BT actions .... :)
But when we control these units from µControllers AT commands become redundant, right?
@@RalphBacon uC commands to a modem also need AT commands. If for instance you drive a simple GSM module from a uC you still need to talk in AT language :)
@@RalphBacon no not at all. For instance AT+CMGS is used for sending SMS and the various AT+HTTPINIT etc for setting up http transactions.....
Ralph, thanks for this amazing tutorial. I have a request... can you please show us how to have it configured with Raspberry Pi as it will be more appropriate for most of us.
Thank you.
Ah, the ubiquitous Raspberry Pi, now with a Model 3B+ so it's even faster and has a quicker LAN speed. Unfortunately, this relay device only works with a plug-in ESP8266-01device but there is nothing stopping you connecting a Pi to a relay - but it is an expensive way to do it. It would be cheaper to get a simple Sonoff switch (which is also an ESP8266 built into a mains relay switch).
Can you not flash the esp with something like tasmota?
I can flash it just using a USB-to-Serial converter, Java Joe, such as the FTDI or CH340G device, and the Arduino IDE, simples. My blog post tomorrow lunchtime (ralphbacon.blog) sets out what I plan for this device to make it work as everyone (including me) seemed to expect. Now's a good time to subscribe to that blog, whadya say? Thanks for the suggestion and keep tuned.
That's my plan too I think. the eBay page I bought it from said that you should reflash the firmware I think although it was in chenglish of course
I got one of these modules but I've also got some cheap sonoff too but ultimately I want something that I can fit inside my boiler...
Great tutorial. I am also annoyed by the fact that the ESP8266 forgets some settings. It should be a plug & play solution but it's not! So, I wrote an initialization program to an ATTINY and soldered it on the board that sends those missing setting to the ESP8266.
I like this your channel a lot so I'll give you the code for anyone to use.
/* DESCRIPTION:
Initialisation add-on microcontroller for the ESP-8266 Relay module made by LC Technology
Microcontroller = ATTINY 45 or 85 with an external 8MHz resonator or Xtal
NOTE: The internal oscillator is not stable enough for reliable serial operation.
AUTHOR: Andrea Campagnolo a.k.a. =PE4CE=
DATE: 29-12-2017
*/
#include
SoftwareSerial mySerial(2, 1); // Define the RX, TX pins we want to use.
// For this purpose we will use only the TX pin, just to keep things simple.
void setup()
{
// put your setup code here, to run once:
const byte LED = 0; // Connect a status led on PB0 Active HIGH
pinMode(LED, OUTPUT); //
digitalWrite(LED, LOW); // Turn OFF the status led
mySerial.begin(9600); // Initialise the serial port and set baud rate
delay(1000); // Wait one second for ESP8266 to boot
mySerial.println("AT+CIPMUX=1"); // Set the MUX mode to multiple
delay(100); // Wait some time just to be on the safe side ;-)
mySerial.println("AT+CIPSERVER=1,8080");
delay(100); // Again, we wait a bit
digitalWrite(LED, HIGH); // All set! Turn ON the status Led to signal READY.
}
void loop()
{
// HAVE FUN! 73 de PE4CE
}
Thanks for your post, Killer_X_Treme, and thanks for sharing that code, good to hear from you.
Hi, thanks for Sharing. Where would the xtal be connected? Any info with links you can provide. Thanks so much
HI Ralph, wow, that's complex (well, faffing...), if its an esp8266 based "thing", then check out Theo Arends Github tutorial that re-tasks Sonoff WiFi Relay type box, and turns it into a very useable, multi function IOT relay, but it can also do so much more.... This Relay board seems to be extremely similar to a Sonoff, and I reckon would work.... thanks for the info though.... Rgds.
Your the zillionth person to use the "faffing" word - and I totally agree! Reprogramming the ESP8266 is the obvious answer. Thanks for posting, Tony.
any update since ?
Only that I've been informed that a V4 version is available (might have been you that told me), but I'm packing up my workshop as I type this so won't be able to do anything until later this year 2021 when I move house and get a new workshop. Easter, maybe?
Seems a decent little board just with very poor software. As it's an ESP and essentially all it will be doing is taking one GPIO high and low to trigger the relay then surely it would be simplicity itself to write some alternative software.
The device is essentially a Sonoff without the case, and there is a mass of well written third party software for the Sonoff (which also uses an ESP8266) and most of that (at least the smaller versions) should be fully compatible and also give a much nicer user interface as there are lots of UI options available in the various community Sonoff firmwares.
I'll be investigating that soonest, Gavin, as reprogramming the ESP8266 is the obvious answer. Thanks for the heads up on the Sonoff.
Actually is not "just taking one GPIO high and low to trigger the relay". There is a seperate STM microcontroller on that base board that you have to send a 4 byte string to via serial at 9600 baud. So in essence, Ralph has fired up THREE microcontrollers to switch on and off ONE relay. You have to admire his determination to make that work. Personally, I desoldered the STM8.
@@jimb032 And how do you control it after desoldering the STM8? do you have a schematic or something?
@@robioutlaw You have to replace it with a transistor - I cant remember it's been so long!
Trace the thing - it's not hard. If you cant figure it let me know and I'll try to dig that thing back out.
Awesome
Thanks! Great to hear from you.
New sub'r. Great content
Welcome aboard! I hope you're enjoying the videos!
Hi.
Do you know where can i find the firmware so i can flash it again?.
i think ive bricked it :(
THanks.
Marc.
That is the danger of using AT commands, Marc. You would think there would be sufficient "intelligence" in the software to stop users doing silly things but there we are. As it happens, I don't recommend you reflash it with the original software at all - it's brain dead, as my video shows, and loses critical settings on power down. What...
What I do recommend is to wait for my next-but-one video and flash it with the simple wi-fi program I've put together, along with a simple on/off app for your phone, turning this relay into a Sonoff lookalike! I can let you have an early release version of both - unless you have a particular desire to go back to AT commands, of course, in which case I will have to see whether the original code was ever supplied to me.
Let me know which way you'd rather go.
Ralph S Bacon i would like to use it with Blynk or something like that.
I cant wait to see.your. next video.
Thanks for ur time .
Yes, Blynk is fine, a little more to do in the setup (compared to MIT App Inventor 2) but essentially the same sort of concept. I think Blynk will allow you to do more, such as dashboards (with the corresponding increase in effort, of course). If you haven't used Blynk before you could try out MIT App Inventor first just to get yourself familiar with the concepts, but you may be keen to go directly to Blynk. Hmm, now maybe I should do a video on that too. Just a thought.
when i started the esp's, garbage comes... i just want to put the firmware back to the chip?
is it possible?
thanks.
Marc.
Apparently, it is possible. See here:
medium.com/jungletronics/flashing-the-official-espressif-firmware-in-esp8266-arduserie-17-2234fc088076
However, I just connected up my FTDI serial to USB converter directly to the RX/TX pins of the ESP8266-01 (using 3.3v setting) and it worked very well. So you may find it easier to do this than use an Arduino as is suggested here. But give it a try.
If you are getting garbage on the Serial monitor try different baud rate. The default is either 115200 or 9600 but depending on what you have done it could be something else now!
AT&W makes the unit remember the AT commands
But not for this module, more's the pity!
good job !!!!!
Thanks, Bogdan!
Ralph !!! It's mean people didnt like after all that work. THis bring us back to how many engineers does it take to turn on a lightbulb. I watched to end to see if ya bashed it.
It was pretty frustrating getting this module to play nicely but I eventually got there! Glad you found it entertaining at least. Thanks for posting, David.
can it work without the converter??
You'll have to be more specific than that, I'm afraid. What will work and what "converter"? It's been a long time since I did this video so I don't remember all the details. Let me know.
@@RalphBacon you used an adapter to connect the module to the Arduino. Can it connect without the adapter
That was possibly a USB-to-Serial adapter so I can monitor the serial output via the TX pin on the ESP8266. I don't think these ESP8266 services come with a USB adapter (to upload programs nor to read the serial output). I am guessing though. OK, I've found my one I was using I will check it out tomorrow, I hope and add more detail here. Nudge me if I forget.
Another device with plenty of potential to use with Amazon Alexa and Google Assistant devices, and a perfect candidate for EasyESP or Sinric.
Thanks for sharing.
That's the key phrase, "plenty of potential". As it stands, it's a broken bit of hardware. But reprogramming the ESP8266 is the answer. Thanks for posting.
Interesting video. My first idea would be to just put my own firmware in it
Absolutely, Ed19601, that is the answer and this is on my list - if I do that I could buy the entire stock, reprogram them, and sell them off. One way to pay for my new workshop, what do you think? Good to hear from you.
Ralph S Bacon pretty good idea, though of course anyone could just snap that idea from you. I actually don't understand why the manufacturer didn't already do that
Me neither, but that's what makes this all rather interesting. Read my blog tomorrow lunchtime all about this!
Link to documentation at "pan.baidu.com/s/1mhDfjTm" to download is locked down to those who are now subscribers of "Baidu". Not wanting to sign up to another site, is there another way to get this downloaded (LC WIFI Relay(5).zip?
Saw your next comment so all is well!
Omg...I just have one thing to say...FORGET THE NANO and just reprogram the esp firmware. There's plenty of others that work with that board. Sorry Ralph, but that "solution" isn't even faffing...it's a band-aid on a broken leg...
Yes, it was a band-aid, but for demo purposes it was something of a solution, faffing to the extreme. Now there's a title for a new channel - Extreme Faffing and I can start with this video! Totally agree with you (and everyone else who has commented here) that reprogramming the ESP8266 is the answer. Thanks for posting, James, good to hear from you.
Ralph S Bacon ok..lol..good channel name. If you are interested in pursuing it further I can give you some links to make it REST or MQQT. I also need to point out..it seems there are some firmware revisions that changed the the hex code to turn on that onboard microprocessor the esp talks to. I apparently have a later revision with a different code. I need to hook the logic analyzed to the serial and see what it is but I dropped that project due to lack of time. I'd be interesting if you finished it...
I avoided the use of MQTT, James, and have now just got a simple web interface; the ESP8266 interrogates the URI for a sequence of characters and does its thing accordingly. It's simple and it works but I'd like to get an MQTT solution even if only for my own curiosity - links would be helpful, thanks.
Hi James, I'm interested in making this relay board talk to ESP-01 without additional Arduino and stuff. Can it be made to work like a Sonoff switch? Do you have the necessary firmware or at least can you please point to the right location where I can get it? Thank you in advance!
gabimal yes, but I can tell you there are like 2 variations of the board with 2 different set of serial commands you send the onboard processor to start the relay. I have a bunch of research...tonight I'll put it on my GitHub and give you a link. I'm out of town at the moment and it's on just a home laptop
f all of that. just use a dev board 8266 and a regular relay. would cost alot less than 2 different controllers. I am glad i saw this as i was thinking of going full bore with this esp01 until I saw this. That really blows yo cant load those commands into static memory.
Sometimes simpler is best, as you say!
or just get a WeMos D1 + some relay boards and call it a day
I'd get a SonOff Basic (which I use daily here in the workshop) flashed with bespoke code that allows web control (basically, on or off). Works fine.
I subsribe to your blog but... unfortunately I do not use any of the existing social network (none of them) so I could not send back messages... I was deceived of that but that is ok, that is my choice in not being in the networks. Than you anyway for the blog.
Another Arduinite fan has told me the same story, Pierre, I'm sorry about that, it's something that WordPress insists on. But you can still follow my blog ok, with email notifications, right? But I'm glad you liked the blog anyway, and thanks for posting here.
STEP 1: Replace AT firmware with something a little smarter. Arduino, MicroPython, etc, etc.
There exists more than one AT firmware, and they're not fully compatible with each other, making the AT firmwares truly Plug'n'PRAY.
I think reprogramming the ESP8266 is the way to go, Cray Ze Ape, which I'm looking into (slowly). Stay tuned!
This link is not operated (at least in Korea)
pan.baidu.com/s/1mhDfjTm
Instead of the above link, you can download it at follow link anyway. Files are divided into 4 files.
blog.naver.com/PostView.nhn?blogId=dscloud&logNo=221217933933&parentCategoryNo=&categoryNo=1&viewDate=&isShowPopularPosts=true&from=search
Thanks for the link, most useful.
Hi Ralph does it ring home to China as you are providing your network ID and password I think I will stick to my Sonoff switch as it can remember and does the job without all that faffing about as you say too much Faffing
You think the Sonoff doesn't ring home to China, Bob? Well, unless you have flashed Tasmota and are using them locally on a Node-Red type network. But these modules have improved since I made this video, it might be time for another visit soon.
you didn't explain anything ..
just explain how to connect to the phone, it's complicated what you're saying
If this video is too complex for you then it means you need to get more experience with the basics. You can do that by watching more of my videos right here!
BEFORE YOU START DON'T BOTHER. ITS A CHINESE GAMER SITE AND THE SOFTWARE IS UNAVAILABLE
Good websites go bad, and bad websites go 404, so it's a shame the source of the code has disappeared, but that's life. I'm sure other repositories exist.