Using Naval Jelly on a Rusty Car
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- Опубликовано: 13 ноя 2018
- I have seen videos of people using Naval Jelly on car parts, but never on a car. So, I try to tackle some rust on my 1971 Ford Torino 500. Let's see how it goes.
More Info: bit.ly/NavalJellyOnCar
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Naval jelly is not the lazy way. Use what ever tools to remove as much rust as possible. Once down to bare metal as possible...then apply the jelly. It gets all the little spots the tools do not. Two applications minimum. But yeah, great vid.
You are correct! Thank you!
Was looking for how to do so. Just got a battery powered sander and heard about naval gel. Thank you for giving further advice. Common sense and the manual aren't enough lol.
@@Dylan-tp3sx You're welcome! I wanted to know too, and no one was showing what happened, so I had to do it. Lol.
Try spreading it out in a one foot square and then covering it with plastic wrap. Thanks for the video, for some reason surface rust removal on car bodies is extremely rare to find good info on.
I might have to give that a try. I will revisit this when I have time. It is concerning though about the second layer I found. I'm not sure what that was the Naval Jelly exposed. Oh well. That's another video. Lol. And you are correct! That's why I decided to make the video.
phosphoric acid is the active ingredient in Naval Jelly and it is "THE". rust eating converter. There is no question that Phosphoric acid will remove oxygen from iron.
It's simply not that fast of a chemical reaction. It also likes heat -- and demands liquid conditions.
If given enough time -- hours and hours -- it can reverse rust -- even in seized components.
THIS is why professionals don't use it. It's too slow for them.
BUT, if you're a DIY mechanic, and have the time, repeated applications will dissolve rust.
Keeping the area WET is an issue. Dry Naval Jelly is ineffective.
Think of it as goo phosphoric acid.
Great tip! Thanks for the information!
IMO, with so much flat areas here, the guy should have mechanically removed the rust with a grinder. THEN, when most of the rust has been removed, you come in a neutralize or "suffocate" the rust with Naval Jelly. You want to chemically convert that rust to something other than rust. Then wipe it down with acetone to remove the jelly residue, then wipe it down with vinegar, then acetone again, then primer/sealer, then paint.
The video was to show if you didn't have access to tools. Also, A grinder on a heavily pitted/rusty roof is not a good idea, unless you want a convertible. Lol.
What happens if you ONLY rinse off the navel jelly with water?? Because that's what I did and then painted over it
@@ThatDeltaBravo scotch-brite clean & prep pads on a grinder work fine on thin metal. I've done it many, many times. Or a random orbital sander, or a die grinder with a sanding disc or scotchbrite roloc pad. Or just some sandpaper wrapped around a sanding block if you don't own any tools. For the same cost as a bottle of naval jelly you can get a pack of sandpaper and with enough time you could polish it to a mirror finish if you really wanted to. Tools make things faster, that's all.
Naval Jelly is a lifesaver for areas where tools won't fit and for finishing up the little pits of rust that remain after getting most of it off, but if you're gonna try to use it like this, you gotta slather on a thick layer and let it sit for an hour. 10 minutes isn't nearly long enough to take off that amount of rust. It won't eat into the base metal even if you give it a whole day (but it will dry out and you might be right back to where you started). It also works slower in cooler weather.
@@ParadigmUnkn0wn I don't think you realize how thin what's left of this metal is. Lol.
You cant left the stuff dry out. It works very slowly. if you can keep it wet and or covered it converts all the rust to a flat black primer with no red rust marks. Cover that up with some epoxy and the part stays rust free for years.
What type of epoxy?
@@countyorga4744 Any 2 part that is a primer and sealer automotive paint will work.
Thanks for vid I am restoring a 98 dodge ram pickup prepping body for painy where there are a few rust areas I have a few didfferent products I'm gonna try this is a big help
Awesome! Send me some pictures over Facebook at The Random Automotive! I'd love to see the before, during, and after. :)
Well I didnt see your post until after I had started but i have some pics of half the hood done and the other in the process I'll send them first isanded with a orbital 80 grit good as possible then I used this in sections i worked great
This stuff is the bees knees, it does all the work while i'm at work and sleeping. zzz
Next time, I'll have to try doing one of those after I apply it!
Naval Jelly definitely works good, but it's Not for every job. You really need to Blob a lot of it on......I dip rusted bolts in it. I also paint it on rusted Truck frames, since it turns Black and basically ruins the service so rust can't grow again.
the front part of the roof of my van looks like your roof, im thinking of trying that metal rescue gel....same idea as naval jelly but supposedly works better/faster
Let me know how it works! If you want, send some before an after pictures to "The Random Automotive" on Facebook!
Years ago I used Naval Jelly before it was owned by Loc-Tite. We used it to clean light rust on chrome rims and bumpers along with steel wool and it did a great job. Not sure if the product is the same now as then but it worked great back in the 1970s.
Unfortunately I can't compare it. Lol.
it's still just phosphoric acid with something to turn it into a gel and some colors and other stuff. According to the Safety Data Sheet there *may* be up to 0.1% sulfuric acid, too, but that seems like a negligible amount and perhaps is present as an impurity in industrial grade phosphoric acid? Perhaps that tine amount serves some critical role in rust removal, but I doubt it.
Use and angle grinder with a stripping wheel or even a drill with a stripping wheel bring the rust down to bare metal and paint over with POR 15 and you’ll never have to worry about the rust again
do you have to prime before applying por-15? my roof looks the same as this guy's, totally rusty. i went to the por-15 website and its confusing cause they have like hundreds of different products...different primers different coats etc
@@hugeCRSfan69 I bought a small package that came with a metal prep spray. So after You strip it down and go over it with some sand paper to smooth it out some as you would if you were spray painting something I then used some 90% rubbing alcohol to clean up any garbage then sprayed it with the metal prep. Let it sit for about 20 min or so then wash it off with a hose and dry it off using towels, I used paper towels to dry mine. Doing this will cause a flash rust to occur but don't worry that's exactly what you want to happen as a flash rust will actually help the POR-15 apply better. Did this to the engine bay in my 91 Mustang GT. Hope this helps
wire wheel attached to a drill is better for that kind of rust. maybe Naval Jelly is good to remove the leftover rust after the wire wheel.
Agreed, but I just used what I had laying around.
0:54 and that’s how I ended up here with the same roof situation 😂
Good luck! 😂
I used this back in the 90s and it would turn the rusty area black. I guess just like paint stripper it is a shadow of what it used to be.
It probably used to cause 36 types of cancer too. Oh well. I just recently got an angle grinder, so... It's on. Lmao!
Business idea: Automatic car wash that first cleans under with soap and pressure washer, then applies this rust remover (or another more effective one). Then the owner can drive away and come back after 24 hours and repeat until all the rust is gone. Then another machine can apply some rust protection film or oil. Billions of dollars are lost to rusting vehicles yearly.
Would be easier and cheaper to undercoat the car. My 2005 Mustang was undercoated with some type of paint (I believe the dealership did it), and there is zero rust under it.
Naval Jelly works but you have to use a wire brush on it while its still on the metal. The best thing I have found is muriatic acid.
I'm going to try a shotgun next.
Leave it for atleast 8hours. More it stays on rust more it removes
I let the car sit for one year, and it rusted more. Lol.
Hey Delta Bravo, I noticed that if I didn't paint over it right away, rust came back, actually new rust too.
What I need to know is what happens if it isn't rinsed off well enough
great video! obviously im late to the party. but hey, better late than never. my experience with this stuff: ive mostly used this on tools, especially tools that have been left outside for years (in a old barn thats fallen apart and so id guess some of these tools havent been used for 10-30 years). it seems to do more work when you wipe the jelly off before it dries. so 5-10 minutes. i noticed someone posted something about not letting it dry and let it sit for hours while keeping it moist. id say they are likely correct, because it doesnt do much when the stuff dries out.
Hey man! Thanks for the feedback. I think my next step is go after this with power tools. I might accidentally turn it into a convertible, but hey... Can't have rust if there is no metal there! Lol.
@@ThatDeltaBravo Hey its all about the rust. Lol its what we are all here for anyways, right?! And if power tools dont work...well...in God we rust.
@@yaze3316 Well said!
Belated comment, this stuff will work, but you need to keep it wet and leave it for MUCH longer, preferably a couple of hours. Also, keep agitating it at intervals. It will eat into the rust better that way.
I left it on overnight in a grenade restoration I did, and I would not advise it. It was obnoxious to get off.
@@ThatDeltaBravobest way to remove it is to add another thin coat, before wiping it off. It helps dissolve the previous coat (in my experience anyway).
Again, ive not used this particular brand, but have used similar, which are just phosphoric acid based.
@@ThatDeltaBravo I use very hot water with any phosphoric acid. For a grenade body threading a same-pitch bolt into the fuse threads makes it easy to hold in a vise for heavy wire brushing, but I dipped those in muriatic acid after stripping any paint. Then I did what I should have done and got two 5HP used industrial air compressors and a sand blast cabinet. They're easy to deal with only needing two separate line 240V receptacles and an air connection between them (I use red hose with Chicago couplings).
Ruff video.
Thanks
REBEL Crawdad
Uhhh... Yeehaw?
Try the easy way---it's ZEP toilet bowl cleaner; all rust will disappear in minutes with no! scrubbing. Next, water rinse.
Then coat with Naval jelly when dry. Prime and finish at your leisure.
Sweet! Next step is a grinder though. Lol.
@@ThatDeltaBravo Most people use a grinder incorrectly on light rust. Study options like flap discs.
@@oldphart-zc3jz Not light rust anymore. More like like metal. Lol
Having the car blasted would be much more cost effective.
Naval Jelly is great for the nooks and crannies, but only if you have unlimited time and patience.
Also, keeping it wet is key. Glom it on and cover the area with plastic wrap of some type... 55 gallon drum liners work great 👍
Having the car stripped with walnut shells or something similar won't warp any sheet metal and won't leave a chemical residue to worry about.
It will also blast the rest of the car away. Haha. I did try the glob and wrap method on a smaller piece of meat, and it dried and was very hard to get off. I've since just been using it for smaller sections.
Read the comments for great tips please
if you want better results use a trash bag and wrap it in order to keep it moist you'll get better results if it doesn't dry out so fast...
Awesome! Thanks!
My experience with using it.
Naval Jelly dose not dissolve the Rust.
you have to wire brush or sand away the heavy loose rust 1st.
then apply Naval Jelly at least twice
It removes the O2 from the hard to get at micro rust leaving a treated metal surface behind.
That can now be covered with primer.
It works, but it's not a magic solution.
you can't just pour it on and expect it to clean up the rust.
I do believe the can says remove loose rust first. At this point, I can't remember. Lol.
Rust mortician works well also.
You should agitate it with a metal brush that rust is thick. Mine came off good when agitated.
Yeah... The car is a lost cause. Lol.
@@ThatDeltaBravo honestly I used Rust-Oleum rust resolver. It comes in a 32oz bottle and has other stuff in it. It worked better than loctite. I let it sit and it just ate the rust. 20-30 mins and it's super gelly lol
@@joejoe7171 Sweet! I might look into that, or just keep letting the car rust. Lol.
@@ThatDeltaBravo there is a point if the rust is just scale you can. Inhibit the rust, clean with degreaser and put fiber glass body filler over it. Then sand it flat. Then it's ready to be primed and painted.
It got rid of the rust, down to the next layer of rust....ha.
Exactly!
What about Krud kutter
I did consider that, but it didn't seem strong enough. Didn't try it though.
krud kutter is krud, it did absolutely nothing.
I called the 800 number that's on the container and received a refund of the purchase price. I do that with every damn thing that does not work as promised.
why not cleaning up before applying it
#BecuaseTorino
Seems like you could've had the same result with just the wire brush or sanding. Kind of defeats the purpose of using the jelly in the first place.
Not really. Been there, done that. Watch my other videos.
You're not applying it correctly. Dab it on in a thick coat. You seem to be applying a thin coat.
Been a while since I used this. I'll try that next time.
I wouldn't use that brand "LocTite"....they're NOOBS to Naval Jelly.
This car is too far gone anyway. Lol.
read the directions and rent a grandpa to teach you some basics about using tools.
Thank you so much for the insightful comment! I don't know where I'd be in life without you. I actually did read the directions. Let's see:
1. Scrape away loose rust and dirt. Done
2. Brush on liberally, working into pitted areas. Done (You can see that quite well in the video)
3. Leave on 5-10 minutes. Done (I actually say that at 1:53)
4. Rinse off with fresh water. Done (3:18 and more, and hosed down off camera)
5. Repeat. Done.
Oh. The directions for using a wire brush are pretty simple. No grandpa required.
Anything else?