Collin’s Lab: Desoldering
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- Опубликовано: 4 окт 2024
- Learning to remove a sturdy connection is almost as important as knowing how to make it in the first place. Electronics repairs, modifications, hacking, and salvage all necessitate one important skill - desoldering. Join Collin as he explains the basics of the electronic maker's undo button.
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thumbs up 10/10. his unique style of electronics education, with his slow/clear voice and simple explanations, is highly accessible i think to electronics newbies, and those who may have english as a second language.. a great asset to humankind!
I was looking for video that explains how desoldering gun is working. All videos was 10m+ long, but all I needed is just to see it in action. This video is the shortest of top 20 I saw in search. Clean, informative, interesting, no side stuff. I wish all videos would be short and informative like this one...
when im waching i feel like im going bak to the 1970's his dress sence and even the intro music lol i love it though
So this is what Agent Smith is up to these days
i thought the same thing haha
Mr Anderson!!!!
The Shadow Man yeah he’s really let himself go
I thought the same thing lmao
lol ""Mr. Anderson"
It's good to see you on RUclips again, Collin. Nice camera work, nice info, nice everything!
+Applied Science I love when the channels I love love the channels I love.
RSP same
nice hair
I'm finding desoldering a real pain. Thanks for the humorous attitude. It's just what I need. And there are some big tips here too.
My problem is that no matter how hot your solder iron gets that the solder doesn't liquify. I wonder what type of solder do these companies use?
@@dragnet53 unleaded solder requires more heat. I've had to turn my station up to 415C to get it to melt. of course, make sure to be generous with the flux as well, and you might find better success if you melt some leaded solder onto the joint and then remove it all together
Personal opinion, desoldering smd with a heatgun is a breeze, simply heat the element slowly up you want to desolder, and then wipe it off the board. Soldering normal solder joint get one of those solder sucking irons (a combination of soldering iron and solder sucker) and then heat the connection up and suck the solder out, the easiest method I have found so far to do the job, makes desoldering especially pin rows a breeze!
I love his suit. He looks like he's ready to take over Wall Street. Or the Matrix.
Imagine him saying: "Mr. Anderson!".
Or Scotland Yard
I can't begin to tell you how helpful your videos have been to me Collin. I've been building synthesizer modules for the past year and you've saved me a ton of time and taught me a great deal. Thanks for all the effort!
Great presentation style. Collin you rock. None of the excitable presentation style or product promotion, just to the point and simply explained with a touch of humour. 10/10. More education clips like this are needed!
LOVE Colin's Lab videos! (wish they weren't so infrequent though!)
The mans busy sharing his wisdom and cool in different mediums
He looks like someone out of the matrix and I love it.
I've finally been able to replace the switches on my mouse (G Pro Wireless) that started doubleclicking. Thanks buddy. I love slow and clear explanations that give you the time to assimilate the information. The camera work is great too.
So glad to see you again dear Collin
This is really good. Clear instructions, detailed camera work, and a pinch of goofy humor.
That's funny. I'm gonna see if I can repair my mouse, now; thank you!
This needs to be on regularly.
There is something special in his videos that makes me not forget.
It's the suit (lol) and the whole Agent Smith look. It's very effective. You dont expect to see dudes in suits doing PCB work hahah. That's gonna be memorable any time you see it. You have to dig this dudes style.
I know this is super old, but I just did my first solder today. I wanted to do something simple, so got a little blink pack that turns lights on and off. They linked to your channel for desoldering tips. Thanks a lot. This was super helpful. I was wondering what the wick was for and why my setup came with a weird suction thing. Thanks a lot for providing info to newbies like me!
Thank you, you are a hero!! I just replaced the Lclick switch on my Logitech G402 mouse. It took me an hour to remove the 3-pin switch because there was no space to hold on to the switch on the other side as i had planned. I had to de-solder whole prying it. It was a lot of work. I am going to order the Desoldering Pump and Desoldering Braid. Thanks again!! Now my mice will be repaired easily, hopefully.
both videos are quick and straight to the point
I had a solder-sucker in my beginner’s kit the whole time and I didn’t know what it was for. Thank you!
To remove SMD passives, simply put a large blob of solder on the iron tip, lay the tip on the part, and slide the blob between both joints quickly. The part will wipe off with very little effort.
Always be careful cutting apart headers while they are still soldered to the board. The pins will be forced apart from each other and this puts a lot of stress on the pads. You can easily damage a board. I recommend sliding the plastic separator off of the pins instead of cutting it.
Chip Quik is awesome for removing SMD ICs, but remember that the alloy is specially designed to create WEAK, easily removed joints. You don't won't Chip Quik to remain when you solder on the new part. After removing the old part, you should wick up all of the Chip Quik, then flood the pads with fresh solder, and wick again. This is to ensure that as much of the Chip Quik as possible is gone.
+Adafruit Industries Seriously, we need MORE Collin and MORE frequently.
I have serious respect for ANYONE that can solder. It seems so simple, yet I just can't seem to get the hang of it.
I love your little jokes and sarcasm that you threw in there. Well done.
Glad to see new Collin's Lab videos. I enjoy his quirky delivery.
I find it interesting that he was saying to use desoldering braid for "dealing with a large amount of solder". I generally thought of it in the opposite. I would use my solder sucker for quickly sucking up the majority of the solder joint, and then using my solder braid to get the last little bit of solder to free the component lead from the side of the through-hole plating. (Chem-Wik flux impregnated solder wick for the win!) Granted, all my solder suckers have the heat-resistant rigid nozzles so in order to get a good "suck" I had to quickly remove the iron and push the nozzle flat on the PWB just as I'm pressing the button in. I guess I never liked the waste of filling up inches of solder braid on one desoldering action, especially when I was the one paying for consumables. I should get myself one of those solder suckers with the heat resistant flexible tips one of these days...
I also use solder braid for cleaning excess solder from the pads (both THT and SMT pads) before applying new solder. Hold the braid against the board with the iron tip and gently wipe.
+Christopher Elliott (Sembazuru) Same
I feel like his narrative style is a throwback to 50s/60s high school education films. The black glasses frames seal the deal.
Excellent, quick easy science class all in one. The Alton Brown of electronics world!!
that music in background 🤩🤩!!! MIB 👍👏🤝🤩 soldering looks cool now after watching this video🤝🤩
I was wondering ¿why so pro? Then I saw Adafruit's logo and everything made sence.
Great video!
Do MOAR of these moving picture and sound thingies!
This video is amazingly calming and educational!
I like Collin's Lab. Very helpful.
Mr. Agent Smith, thank you for the tutorial.
Great video. Very helpful.
BTW, from Online Etymology Dictionary:
Solder (n): early 14c., soudur, from Old French soldure, soudeure, from souder, originally solder, "to consolidate, close, fasten together, join with solder" (13c.), from Latin solidare "to make solid," from solidus "solid" (see solid (adj.)).
Modern form in English is a re-Latinization from early 15c. The loss of Latin -l- in that position on the way to Old French is regular, as poudre from pulverem, cou from collum, chaud from calidus. The -l- typically is sounded in British English but not in American, according to OED, but Fowler wrote that solder without the "l" was "The only pronunciation I have ever heard, except from the half-educated to whom spelling is a final court of appeal ..." and was baffled by the OED's statement that it was American. Related: Soldered; soldering. The noun is first attested late 14c.
This video is great. Thanks so much for all the effort that went into making this informative upload. I've subbed. Looking forward to more.
I really enjoy the information formatting....superb job
He was really missed! He have a really simple way to make complex things easy to understand...
Colin is back?? Wow!
Very professional presentation, well done
I like how you put on a black suit and black tie (dark green?) to do your videos. You look like you are ready for a scene in The Matrix. The sideburns are a nice touch, too.
Tried it for the first time and it was a annoying. The pump sucker was useless but I see clearly I wasn't using it properly. Lucky I had an impact drill, I could use a very small drill bit to drill it off and then add the new component to the circuit board which I was doing it for my monitor. To my surprise I got it going (eureeka!) unbelievable. Saved me $200-300 for a new 24inch monitor. Will see how long it will last but so far so good been a whole week now. New beginnings and journeyman to the soldering world :)
Great video. Especially love the music. :)
...although, a desoldering station can be an option.
Branded ones (Hakko, Weller, JBC, ...) can be quite expensive, but ZD985 (as Dave Jones mentioned) seems to work well. This sort of stuff makes desoldering process a REAL breeze, at least desoldering of through-hole components.
Dude, the Kraftwerk is strong with you! Bless!
It's a cool Technic. Thanks you Collin's Lab.
Love this guy man.
Collin is the best
Love Collins' Lab! :)
We never had problems with desoldering leaded solder. The components seem almost welded in these days!
Thankyou so much really informative and easy to follow
That copper wire technique is great.
Use 2x soldering irons for 2 terminal SMDs, or a SMD rework station, such as a Atten 858D for parts with more (and hidden) terminals.
It's really good to see you back Colin ;)
how about doing a proper how to on some of the adafruit shields mmm say the motor v2
Thank you Agent Smith very cool!
OMG Its rellay wondering to see even for a little usefull thing like de-soldering you guys made professional lecture type tuturial....
Yes! Collin's not dead!
Hot tweezers are great for two pad SMD parts. I've also seen people use two soldering irons and grab them with one in each hand.
Thanks for the tips!
Collin’s Lab is The Best
Thank you Mr. Smith
But how hot should the iron be?
just what i was looking for. thanks for the noob friendly explanation
Thank you. I am just a electro novice sucker but this helped
Thank you, great video
Excellent, really helpful and clear. Thank you
Great tips. Thank you.
I thought I knew desoldering but I was wrong. This gave me more tips and tricks.
SMD resistors and capacitors are easy to remove with your soldering iron just alternatingly heat both pads quickly and you can usually remove a part in a couple of seconds.
I don't know what to say but thank you so much
Another great video! Thank you Collin.
very precise; thank you bro
yay Colin's Lab new video
Thanks man imma buy all these stuff right away and start reparing stuff =D
Hakko 808 desoldering gun or the new FR301. Done. Make life easier for yourself!
Perfect video and most informative
I love zen style too
Very well made video
Thanks for the info
would like to have heard mentioned why I can't heat the solder of my Raspberry PI 3 to molten state in order to remove large components. (really, any purchased or mass produced object)
Thank you a lot man!!!
What about hot air blower ?
Whats called. ? Chip quick ?
Excellent video! Question: my 30-watt soldering iron melts my regular tin wire, but when I try to desolder parts in electronic devices like a mouse or cell phone, it won't melt the solder. Should I get a more powerful soldering iron?
Great video, thanks so much. I learned a lot.
Which solder sucker is best? The ENGINEER the VAMPIRE or the KOTTO Solder Sucker? They are $26, $30, & $20
Thanks mr lincoln very cool
Hey Collin!
You are a Great Instructor and 'am always looking forward to watching your video tutorials.
Since the electronics market is changing to SMDs more and more, a presentation of hot air solder stations would be in order, plus All the peripherals that go with it. That includes the type of flux, solder paste and the applicators such as the gauge of the blunt needle tip.
Google & eBay are my best source of this information so far. You could do better. So, how about a video on the subject?
Also, when buying DIY kits (as they are now called), seems there is always an SMD IC chip that has to be soldered onto the board. There's just no getting around it!
Keep up the Good work!
Lord Saint Dennis Charles Smart, Enlightened
Heaven's Spokesman & Hobbyist
More Colin!
i bought this de-solder pump/sucker because i like it for small jobs. for big jobs i grab my cheap / affordable de-solder station..
He's back !!!! Yeeeaaahh !
Welcome back!
That is not how you use the copper braid! You just unroll a tiny length (10-20 mm) from under the rubber so that the unused length doesn't act as a heat sink and you cut it off bits at a time after you have filled the small section with solder. That way you will spend less time heating up the braid and it will absorb the solder much quicker and more cleanly.
Good video 👍
Love these videos. I hope this means we can expect to see more soon.
Very helpful thanks
You're welcome!
Can we have more Collin please?
and how about a SMD component/package with 72 legs? would you still recommend chipquick? or a hot air desolder station??
Cool video Colin!
I like this guy
Echo de menos vídeos como este.
I used a mini-torch, and the pieces just fell out.
Mine was a “BBQbuy Mini Jet Pencil Flame 503 Torch”
However, the fumes gave me a headache.
Next time… I’ll use ventilation
Thanks. Cooper helps.
awesome vid but you can just use a k tip to remove smd parts by wiping the part off with your iron.
I’m having an issue with through-hole components where the solder wick isn’t sucking up all the solder... it’ll take in some (and it often seems like it’s taking a lot), but some solder remains pooled in the hole. At that point, the wick *and the heat of the iron* can’t properly reach it. I can re-solder the joint and try again, but it’s not perfect. I only got 4 successes out of nearly 50 attempts. The pads are starting to burn. Will the solder sucker do a better job at removing solder without it pooling in the hole? I’m trying to desolder switches in a mechanical keyboard.