I was using these in the 70's, these were used by the military as wire repairs on aircraft. I like it when people discover new/old stuff. Raychem was the company, we had an entire kit with an air gun to activate the splice. We couldn't have exposed elements as the fuel vapors were always a factor
@@MegaMech I never liked the lighter method. I preferred the airgun that the kit came with, last few times I used my heat shrink gun with the curved nozzle concentrator
I went to Airframe school for an AnP. I graduated with high grades. That's not the correct way to join a wire in something that flies. You count and divide the individual wire strands, make the wire connections as specified in the manual and solder them. This is a temporary repair, not a proper connection.
I don't doubt the Germans had a version of that time frame. Those dudes had an obscenly HUGE leg up on technology. . . . . . . . . . . . . . And then comes JC. That was quicker than expected actually. A Lil shout out to Buddy Christ👍👼
I've been using these a lot lately; and, to make them even better, I use standard thickness heat-shrink tubing over top of them once they're secured - this gives them a bit more rigidity, and also considerably more protection, as the heating required to melt the solder of these does thin the tubing quite a bit.
I was an aircraft electrician and this is fairly close to what we would use. The difference is that we would have a metal barrel that we would crimp onto each end of the wire, then slide the plastic tube over the barrel and heat shrink it. It was referred to as an environmental splice.
I used about 10,000 of these as Aviation Electronics Technician (AT) in the Navy in the early 80s. We called them environmental splices. Nothing new here.
@@patring620 Same here, worked with enviromental splices all the time as a Aviation Electrician's Mate (AE). I knew many AT's who kept their Bravo-1-Charlie, to heat up their splices ;).
@@patring620 I could not find well-made ones I found some at garage sale they were over 20 years old in work better the stuff on the market today is made out of a hard cheap plastic
Thank you. Not sure why so many negative comments. The connectors i got from Home Depot were too bulky to fit in the extending pole for my new Chandelier. My electrician ive used for 10+ years was busy so he sent his cousin to help me install a new outlet but I forgot to tell him I also needed help with the chandelier. His cousin didnt have the right tools to do the chandelier as he thought he was only installing a new outlet. He tried to use my connectors (crimping them) to extend my new Chandelier and couldn't fit. I didn't want to call and bother them again so soon, so this looks like a very suitable solution that at least I wasn't aware of, so thank you. Maybe my connectors require heat too for a better fit, but these connectors with the solder look like a much better option.
I've had good luck with these the last few years. I have found that the tighter you can get the strands for the joint the better the solder will work. My best results have been with doing twisting them together before heating as that leads to less airspace in the joint and as the solder heats up at the last moment the compression from the contracting shrink tube will push the solder more fully into the joint. Also if you have any stray strands poking towards the shrink tube as that tube shrinks it can impale itself on the pointy strand and cause a failure. I carry a small set of these in my emergency kit for the car as well as a small butane cigar lighter (for better heat control using short pulses) :)
Used those years ago working for Fluke. Wires still have to be twisted to increase contact area between wires as solder doesn't have same conductivity as copper. Solder ring has to be melted completely. Not compatible with some types of wire insulation as it will melt before the solder.
Agree. These are good in a pinch for certain situations but nothing beats a good mechanical connection followed by a good solder joint and covered with good quality heat shrink tubing.
Thanks for confirming my experience - repairing a car loom, the insulation melted before the solder - with all the extra work you may as well have just soldered it - never using this type again
Also, if time is short, these take way longer than soldering and heat-shrinking. They're basically only good if you don't have a soldering iron, or don't have enough length to slide the heat shrink off to the side while you solder (but you should solve that a different way and do the repair correctly).
That’s what I was thinking, and also slide this on one of the wires and then pre twist both wires together then slide this back over I’m sure that would make it a lot stronger also
@@Yeabuddy720 Twisting the wires might give you a stronger mechanical connection, if the wires are properly bonded by the solder, then you shouldn't need to twist.
These can also be activated with a common pocket lighter if done carefully to control the amount of heat applied. That's EXACTLY how I fixed the wiring harness underneath my camper in a parking lot, about 200 miles from home. I lost brake and turn signal lights. A wire had been wedged between two parts of the frame, frayed and broke. A solder sleeve and a lighter came to the rescue!
Given their cost and the number of use cases for these things, I think I'd rather spend the extra effort just to solder and heatshrink them properly. True solder is way better than this stuff and with glued heats shrink tubing you're much more water proof than this and the joint is actually stronger than the original wire is. You also don't have to worry about a high heat day (like if this was in an engine compartment) reflowing your solder and causing problems. It looses all of it's mechanical strength at a relatively low temperature which is how a heat gun can even melt it in the first place, it's usually a low melting alloy like indium and gallium those fun metals that melt on a human body mixed with something else to raise it up a bit. No idea how that stuff behaves long term, lead in solder is pretty well tried and true and still mandated to be used in certain applications because of it's known properties.
@@computerwizard2613 you guys are something else. He is offering this as an alternative. This is probably far better than a crimp. I've soldered wires together and in a pinch, its a real pain to take out all my soldering stuff to my car to solder wires. Its probably not as good as soldering, but its better than the cheaper alternatives many people use, like crimps. SO both of you please apologise and say that its not bad what this guy offers as an alternative to lots of other inferior ways.
I've had these for a while now and have used them on a few repairs. I found that the shrinking plastic is fairly thin after done, and I still use heat-shrink over these every time I use them. The heat-shrink also looks better than the look of the solder-seal IMHO. Keep up the great videos!
Never a bad idea to double shrink a connection, especially a really important one. The ones I showed are pretty thick, they feel about 3x normal heatshrink tubing but extra protection is never bad
I don’t know but soldering for me is satisfying especially if there is a bunch of wires and after you are done they all look perfect and yeah that might be the quickest and overall good but it’s also the most expensive
@@rorschacht8478 My milwaukee iron heats up to usage temp in under 20 seconds and is more portable than a heat gun. When you know you're about to solder switch it on and by the time you put the heatshrink on and twist wires it's been sitting there waiting to be used. These melt connectors really are a bandaid fix in my eyes, convenient if you only have a lighter or something, not for most professionals.
If heat-shrinking the wires "takes a long time" and that's your reason for not soldering and then heat-shrinking, then these will take you even longer. The hardest part of using these solder sleeves is melting the solder without prematurely shrinking or burning the heat shrink.
I really like the way you do your videos. I can't explain things well but they are just done so precise and easy to understand. I just found your channel today starting with the generator and it was extremely helpful. The guy that get on and make comments about "oh these have been around for years." Or "well actually." Don't listen to them. None of them can put out a how to video even close to you. Also these wire connection things are new to me because I work in healthcare and have never had to use them until now. Anyway thank you again and I hope you keep up the information! Btw your house/yard looks great from what I see. Looks like you live in a beautiful area.
Have been used in the aircraft industry for decades. In my opinion, it’s the only way to go if you can get them. The key to a good connection is to watch the solder flow or melt into the wire. Typically, you need about 650° to 700° for a proper application.
They are clearly stolen from that Raychem design but the application is a little different since I believe those were used primarily on shielded cables.
I just found out about these from this video. I bought the exact heat gun and I fixed my MAF wiring on my Miata, wired up a radio for it, and I’m gonna be doing a radio for my brother soon. Compared to the olden days of solder and heat shrink or butt connectors, this is wayyyyy easier! Tip if you’re gonna use these next to a source of heat (engine bay) it wouldn’t be a bad idea to fit a heat shrink over them for heat protection.
I used to use those and then I stopped. Just like shown in your video, it is easy to melt the low temp solder but it is difficult to gauge when the solder wet the copper wire, if ever. Another issue I kept having is that the heat shrink almost always burns away before solder flowed in properly. Now I do my splicing with crimp and heat shrink.
Some designs incorporate a dab of flux. Without added flux these will not actually wet the wire. That is visible in the view of the center cut portion. Holidays where there should have been solder.
These connectors are definitely convenient. Especially in places it is tough to get a soldering iron. I’ll never give up my old trusty Unger soldering iron, but have used these with success.
Yeah I felt his argument against the crimp connector was weak, being if you use them with the wrong size wire, they don't work good, well obviously. Done correctly they work well, which I feel the video ignored
I have to say thank you for this video. My sister had a rat chew through a portion of her engine harness and it was pretty bad. I used these connectors and they helped a bunch.
Demonstration cutaway appears to show a cold solder. I used to use this exact knockoff to do some wiring for my car. Earlier generation of knockoff actually worked; solder melted all the way. However, newer one keeps on burning up the heat shrink so I ditched them all.
It’s not that it was incorrectly done, it’s that it’s a bad knockoff of the TE/Raychem sleeves. You literally couldn’t get this alloy to fully flow if you wanted to.
I've used them for years and definitely my go to wire repair method. The smaller they are the easier and quicker they are to use. At first the larger ones can blow out the shrink wrap before melting or fully melting the solder but once you master using the right amount of heat and technique they are great to use.
@@norcaldrones5389 you don't know what yr doin. You must heat the center first until it melts, then shrink the tubing... don't be scared to stay at one point with the open flame !
I got a box of these off Wish... WISH and they still worked good and as intended. Probably lead in the solder but it's inside shrinkwrap and the solder doesn't get as hot as an iron... Totally worth 15 bucks for a nicely organized kit.
These are awesome. Alot of comments are saying these been around for along time, but I must say this is the first time I've seen them. I'm absolutely gonna get some. I've always twisted the wires together 😂
They are awesome for so many repairs. I got the 120pack shown in the video. amzn.to/3rqf9eI $10 for the pack is unbelievable. I think you will love them
Far better join and with today's glue lined heat shrinks waterproofing isn't a problem. That solder in the vid hasn't done anything just a cold joint at best and it's not waterproof because there is strands of wire hanging out the side. The only thing these and other connectors like them have going for them is speed and why most people use then, no one wants to pay for a quality job anymore
I've tried using these. Each joint takes 10 times as long as soldering. It's hard to get enough heat into the solder to melt it without also liquefying the jacket.
By the time I get out the heat gun might as well get out the solder iron and do it right. Doing lots of wires isn't a big deal once you got the stuff out doing each one is quick. Now if you have no soldering skills at all this is better than a crimp
Neat. For an even better connection you can probably slip the sleeve further down the wire, then twist stripped wire ends together, then bring the sleeve back over the stripped ends and then melt it.
It's actually better to interweave the wires similar to shown in the video instead of twisting them together. Once the solder sleeve shrinks down it creates the phone book effect which makes the wires difficult to separate even without the solder.
@@raymond3437 IKR...Radio Shack kept me out of trouble as a teen. I feel like once they started to get away from the hobbyists/DIY and audio market, and started to focus on cell phones...that's when it started to go down. And I feel like the marketing for Radio Shack was weak too.
Tks for the review however, I noticed at 3.24min mark the copper wire seemed to have penetrated out of the tubing. Such a connection may short or give a rude shock. 😳
Those do not give the same quality as soldering. The solder in them is such a weak solder and doesn't flow thoroughly through the wire. There is a huge difference in flow between these and actual solder.
Finally someone who understands. As an guy who solders for 10+ years, I would never use the shit in this video again. I’ve tried them before and they are a waste of money, a waste of time and effort. It takes longer to repair the broken wire than soldering it in the first place. The solder doesn’t flow correctly and there isn’t enough solder to make a strong and nice connection.
Try them on truck wiring that's been exposed to the road salt etc they do not give a good connection on new wiring I guess they are ok but I would solder and heat shrink new wiring much cheaper
Thank you for introducing me to these. I had been putting off a rewiring job in my car because I couldn't figure out how to get my soldering setup into the cramped space (behind the glove box). These solved the problem, and my TPMS light is no longer stuck on!
The only issue is that these are no substitute for soldering in term of penetration of solder. There are videos of these being tested vs soldering and the soldered wires when cut look like one solid wire while these connections leave gaps and voids where the solder didn't penetrate. I'm not saying don't use them or they don't work just be aware of what you're getting and what you expectations should be. Crimping is fine as well as long as you use the proper tool. A good crimp has been likened to a 'cold weld' and is quite good as a connection method. Of course crimp vs solder is based on more than one factor so use what's best for your particular use case
IMO the "WAGO" connector is much better for most people. It is a small plastic block that has holes you simply push the ends of the wire into. The featured product is great for professionals or for people who splice all the time. The average person would be hard-pressed to gather all that stuff together for the occasional splice and get it right.
Absolutely correct, the Wagos are the best for many situations, and the only way I do home wirng. But thei one issue is they aren't waterproof so not good for trailers, car, boat. outdoor equipment. These are great for normal wire work with extra protection
Yes, Wago connectors are the way to go for a lot of house wiring jobs. However, these couplers are primarily designed for low voltage applications, not 120/240 volt house wiring.
Used these to repair a garage door sensor wire I cut when replacing the overhead jam. The cut was above the garage door opening, so I was doing everything on a ladder. Fix took less than 5 min and I was back to my original project. I am definitely a fan.
I just ordered the 200 pack of connectors and the heater, thanks for the awesome video. These definitely look easier to use than crimping and heat shrinking. I always watch your video’s and thrust your opinion on the different projects you do. I also bought the the Tenacity, blue dye and surfactant last summer and it worked well. I got the engine wash 21s and will be trying it soon. Thanks Martin
I appreciate your faith in my videos. I am probably one of the few channels left that will not show something I hate or just doesn't work. Your comment is exactly why!
I used these on my old Raytheon fire control radar back in the early 90s. For sure they’ve been around longer. Glad to see they made it to “Home Depot” finally.
I'm not crazy about how you were still able to pull that apart. Looks like a fairly easy solution but I'd still use the double twist method with heat shrink (NASA approved).
Yeah, have to say, not crazy about them pulling apart, just seems like a dangerous shortcut. And if tension isn't a factor for the splice, wire nuts are cheaper and faster. Not a lot of use cases for these.
@@Rein_Ciarfella Being on or near the ocean, or areas where they salt the roads would just bring up the concern of salt-rich moisture. When doing marine cabling we add dielectric grease, enough so that a small amount oozes out when the heat shrink is applied. This ensures that when the heat shrink fails, an waterproof connection is maintained. You can't add dielectric grease to these.
Lillian Smith Ok, gotcha! I’m on Cape Cod and have done a little marine wiring years ago. I used the heat shrink connectors with dielectric already inside so after you crimped then you applied heat and the grease came out the ends during the process. Never seen the ones displayed here until now.
This is a game changer. Thank you. I stop using the wire connectors, because they keep slipping off. And soldering is time consuming for this kind of situation.
These fittings have been around for a few years. They are OK for tight and awkward spaces and that is the only time I will use them. The ones I bought have crimp and solder, so you can crimp them and leave them, the idea being that you can come along with a heatgun afterwards and solder multiple connections so you are not back and forth with your tools. I still used solder, flux and collared heatshrink wherever I can, it's still the best connection out there.
"same quality as a solder connection" And this is the point where the instructor for my mil spec soldering course would tell you "get the fuck out of my classroom".
@@Shrouded_reaper I'm not talking about equipment from some lowest bidder defense contractor, or some civilian corporation that erroneously puts the milspec label on their products.
I wonder what would happen if you put liquid flux on the stripped wired before they are inserted? Would you get better solder penetration? I will have to give that a try.
You're definitely still going to want to flux the wires before assembly. Otherwise, you're asking for a loose connection with potentially high resistance.
There's flux in the center of these which melts with just the heat from the heat gun. We use them at my job because they're more reliable than traditional splices.
@@sauercrowder even if there's flux, which I'm skeptical of, the wires need to be fluxed before inserting. Flux draws the melted solder in and helps it penetrate between the strands for a complete connection. If no flux is applied directly to the wires, the solder is only going to bond to the outer portions of the conductor.
Alot of manufacturers now use such cheap wires the insulation likes to melt when heating heat shrink. We bought some of these at work and most of the guys didn't use them right so we don't have them anymore, if I see a butt connector it gets cut out, tired of chasing wiring problems only to find butt connectors corroded, never have issues with soldering though
I use these connectors for most things, and I use solder only when I need to attach a wire to something like a button lead or anything that you can’t use these for.
Most of the solder in that connector hadn't melted you needed a higher heat and it would have completely melted the ring of solder instead of leaving the outside of the solder ring intact.
Yeah, its supposed to be somewhere around 400 degrees, and able to finish the job in under 15 seconds otherwise you won't get as good of a finished product. Also the meshing of the wires was just painful... honestly, just crimp properly. Only place these are legitimately useful is on ground leads off of armor or shielding.
To properly use this type of connector. You must first use (SOLDER PASTE of FLUX). Solder Flux or Paste will allow Solder to Flow around all the Copper Strands for a Super Strong Joint. I just thought you might want to know.
@@jayneutron I also have a background in the military, mostly welding, soldering, and brazing of all types of metals. That being said, and having never used these, is there a reason why a dab of flux isn't put on the wires to assist in the flow of solder to make a stronger connection? Is it a waterproofing issue?
@@highqualityhomemaintenance7565 In this video the author fails to mention the colors of the bands are a guide to wire gage or thickness. Red is smallest wire where blue is used on medium sized wire and yellow is thicker wire. However, I noticed the solder does not melt and spread easily (in this video). Military grade connectors did melt and spread more easily on the exposed wire making a good connection. These were designed for the military for aircraft being exposed to salty conditions where if you used a regular crimp connector the wires would corrode and cause problems.Solder connectors provide a moisture and waterproofing seal. Plus they stack neat on a wire bundle. I did search for these on the civilian world with no luck...until now.
@@sebastiand152 Lötkolben, ordentlich zusammenlöten großzügig schrumpfschlauch drüber. Ist auch wasserdicht und du hast bei mehreren Kabeln keinen Knödel drin.
@@motorenbastler9289 Danke. Bei mehreren Kabeln sicher besser. Bei 2 Kabeln scheinen mir die Dinger immer noch eine Alternative zu sein. Oder was spricht dagegen?
@@sebastiand152 ne richtige alternative sind die nicht außer bei kaum zugänglichen Stellen. Durch richtiges Löten erreichst du eine viel bessere Verbindung der Kabel miteinander. Problem ist dass das Lötzinn in den Verbindern zwar heiß wird aber das kabel nicht richtig heiß werden kann somit hast du ne kalte Lötstelle. Oftmals sind die nicht 100% wasserdicht und das kabel.oxidiert und du musst alles nochmals machen. Lieber gleich löten. Einzige Möglichkeit wenn du nur ein kurzes kabel hast weil oft wird durch das Löten das kabel so heiß dass der schrumpfschlauch den du ja vorher über das kabel stecken musst schon zusammenschmilzt und man ihn nicht mehr über die Lötstelle bekommt.
I work in Aerospace/Defense doing electronic fabrication and repair. We use these all the time with shielded wires for shield grounding lugs and daisy chains in wire bundles. You have a few things wrong though (At least per MIL spec). The solder ring needs to be melted completely and needs to flow into the connection. We also use stranded and twisted wire. The wire outline needs to be visible and you should be able to see a solder fillet along the entire length of the wire.
@@samiam9059 I didn't " learn" any thing here. I already know how to use electrical tape. I never saw these types of connectors until now. I've always used solder on a joint. These connectors are meant for repair and I would never use them to wire a whole project just like I would never use shark bite fittings to plumb a whole house. Electrical tape is not practical as I have seen it break down after just a few years. Especially when exposed to the elements.
Something similar was used in WWII for field radio repair. There were these gunpowder filled connectors that you could light and they would grip the wires and melt the solder in the middle.
Sorry this type of connector is not new. Probably started seeing them at least 15 years ago. I have done extensive electrical repair on cars, trucks and buses for over 40 years and I can tell you nothing beats direct soldering. I have seen this type of connector fail a few times when exposed to vibration, shaking. I have seen water intrusion also in this connector . That may be due to to little heat on the heat-shrink or to much and it got melted. Learn to solder and use heat-shrink properly it's not a hard skill all it takes is practice.
Yes that shot is one of the many tests I recorded and I left it in, because even though I accidentally pushed the wire outside the ring it still was completely insulated, which is good.
Watch out using these connectors with addressable LEDs. I've found that the insulation is rather thin on them once heated, and when I bundled the wires back together after solder sealing the wire lengths, my LEDs would not function properly because of interference. I've found that if you're planning on solder sealing several wires and then bundling them back together tightly, then you really want to go easy on the heat to help ensure the integrity of the outer insulation of the connector, but that also means it's unlikely that you'll get a good melting effect from the solder. Also if you're using several of these in a bundle, then you'll definitely want to put electrical tape over each connection before bundling them all together to ensure a proper layer of insulation.
I use these on my tractor trailer. I have found that the larger ones don't have enough solder in them. But the blue ones down to the white work well. I have yet to have one fail due to salt or corrosion. I live in upstate New York where winter is brutal and they salt the roads pretty heavily for 6 months out of the year. I still prefer to solder and heat shrink. But these are convenient especially if you don't have enough wire to keep heat shrink away while soldering.
One thing I've noticed about these is they seem to have a shelf life and if they're left out in the elements (truck toolbox, back of a car), they're as good as useless because the solder wont melt right. You'll just burn the heat shrink and the solder wont flow no matter how long you heat it.
Available for cheaper than ever: Connectors: amzn.to/3rqf9eI Heat Gun: amzn.to/3fIGia4 Strippers: amzn.to/3rvxRSm
I was using these in the 70's, these were used by the military as wire repairs on aircraft. I like it when people discover new/old stuff.
Raychem was the company, we had an entire kit with an air gun to activate the splice. We couldn't have exposed elements as the fuel vapors were always a factor
Same. Used these in the Navy for aircraft wiring
@@3rd_gen_j I was Navy. VP then went to VX at Pt Mugu
Phantom Phixer
The ones in this video was a cold solder join. It'll just shake loose midflight. If it breaks at the join then the method is no good.
@@MegaMech I never liked the lighter method. I preferred the airgun that the kit came with, last few times I used my heat shrink gun with the curved nozzle concentrator
I went to Airframe school for an AnP. I graduated with high grades. That's not the correct way to join a wire in something that flies. You count and divide the individual wire strands, make the wire connections as specified in the manual and solder them. This is a temporary repair, not a proper connection.
We call them SOLDER FERRULES in the shipyard industry. Been using them for about 12 years myself. They've been there even longer.
I have a box from my grandpa from the mid 80’s
@@pokerdealer2003 good job mayor now we're just gonna wait for someone with a report from the 70's. Any day now.
They were actually designed during WW2.
Germans designed it during the WW1 1918 spring offensive. That's for sure.
I don't doubt the Germans had a version of that time frame. Those dudes had an obscenly HUGE leg up on technology. . . . . . . . . . . . . . And then comes JC. That was quicker than expected actually. A Lil shout out to Buddy Christ👍👼
We called them Solder Sleeves always my go to. I've been using them for about 15 years.
if there is vibration I prefer to use a crimp connection.
We called them video splices back in late '70s early '80s. Why does he call these "new?"
@Anel Then why does an F/A18 jet fighter use crimps rather than solder? Both my electronic engineers here at work agree with me on this.
@Anel a soldered wire is subject to cracking or breaking through vibration and flexing.
gabriel urteaga Agree. Saw solder sleeves in aerospace career since 1974. In some applications & contracts not allowed. Cheers.
I've been using these a lot lately; and, to make them even better, I use standard thickness heat-shrink tubing over top of them once they're secured - this gives them a bit more rigidity, and also considerably more protection, as the heating required to melt the solder of these does thin the tubing quite a bit.
That's a brilliant idea! I'm going to do that to fix my dishwasher.
I was an aircraft electrician and this is fairly close to what we would use. The difference is that we would have a metal barrel that we would crimp onto each end of the wire, then slide the plastic tube over the barrel and heat shrink it. It was referred to as an environmental splice.
I used about 10,000 of these as Aviation Electronics Technician (AT) in the Navy in the early 80s. We called them environmental splices. Nothing new here.
@@patring620 Same here, worked with enviromental splices all the time as a Aviation Electrician's Mate (AE). I knew many AT's who kept their Bravo-1-Charlie, to heat up their splices ;).
Yeah I was in the Air Force, from 07 to 13.
@@patring620 I could not find well-made ones I found some at garage sale they were over 20 years old in work better the stuff on the market today is made out of a hard cheap plastic
How is crimping and soldering the same? I will wait!
Thank you. Not sure why so many negative comments. The connectors i got from Home Depot were too bulky to fit in the extending pole for my new Chandelier. My electrician ive used for 10+ years was busy so he sent his cousin to help me install a new outlet but I forgot to tell him I also needed help with the chandelier. His cousin didnt have the right tools to do the chandelier as he thought he was only installing a new outlet. He tried to use my connectors (crimping them) to extend my new Chandelier and couldn't fit. I didn't want to call and bother them again so soon, so this looks like a very suitable solution that at least I wasn't aware of, so thank you. Maybe my connectors require heat too for a better fit, but these connectors with the solder look like a much better option.
Did you say 'NEW'? I was using these 25 years ago.😂😂
I was just about to comment ....These have been around for quite a while. I’ve seen repair done on aircraft wiring that were done over 30 years ago
In our truck workshop we do this for years..
It's just for young zoomers
@@NomoStilta I mean I'm not quite a zoomer but even I know these are old as fuck
RUclipsr: "gajab beijjati hai"
I've had good luck with these the last few years. I have found that the tighter you can get the strands for the joint the better the solder will work. My best results have been with doing twisting them together before heating as that leads to less airspace in the joint and as the solder heats up at the last moment the compression from the contracting shrink tube will push the solder more fully into the joint. Also if you have any stray strands poking towards the shrink tube as that tube shrinks it can impale itself on the pointy strand and cause a failure.
I carry a small set of these in my emergency kit for the car as well as a small butane cigar lighter (for better heat control using short pulses) :)
Used those years ago working for Fluke. Wires still have to be twisted to increase contact area between wires as solder doesn't have same conductivity as copper. Solder ring has to be melted completely. Not compatible with some types of wire insulation as it will melt before the solder.
Agree. These are good in a pinch for certain situations but nothing beats a good mechanical connection followed by a good solder joint and covered with good quality heat shrink tubing.
Flux and twist wires together before securing with connector!!!
Thanks for confirming my experience - repairing a car loom, the insulation melted before the solder - with all the extra work you may as well have just soldered it - never using this type again
Also, if time is short, these take way longer than soldering and heat-shrinking.
They're basically only good if you don't have a soldering iron, or don't have enough length to slide the heat shrink off to the side while you solder (but you should solve that a different way and do the repair correctly).
Dip the wires in flux before you join them, the results will be dramatic and I don’t think you’ll be able to rip them apart.
That’s what I was thinking, and also slide this on one of the wires and then pre twist both wires together then slide this back over I’m sure that would make it a lot stronger also
@@Yeabuddy720 Twisting the wires might give you a stronger mechanical connection, if the wires are properly bonded by the solder, then you shouldn't need to twist.
Being inside the tubing you can't clean off the excess flux afterwards. Does that cause any issue with corrosion, etc?
Pls can someone tell me wich Flux?
@@thierno339 Flux is a paste that helps the soldier flow smoothly along the individual wire strands ensuring a stronger bond.
These can also be activated with a common pocket lighter if done carefully to control the amount of heat applied. That's EXACTLY how I fixed the wiring harness underneath my camper in a parking lot, about 200 miles from home. I lost brake and turn signal lights. A wire had been wedged between two parts of the frame, frayed and broke. A solder sleeve and a lighter came to the rescue!
U want an award for that
@@bryantburns3664 I guess that'd be cool, you tryna blow it from the back big guy?
@@iggy151 your acting like you really did something impressive by splicing a wire? Congrats on your first wire splicing buddy
Given their cost and the number of use cases for these things, I think I'd rather spend the extra effort just to solder and heatshrink them properly. True solder is way better than this stuff and with glued heats shrink tubing you're much more water proof than this and the joint is actually stronger than the original wire is. You also don't have to worry about a high heat day (like if this was in an engine compartment) reflowing your solder and causing problems. It looses all of it's mechanical strength at a relatively low temperature which is how a heat gun can even melt it in the first place, it's usually a low melting alloy like indium and gallium those fun metals that melt on a human body mixed with something else to raise it up a bit. No idea how that stuff behaves long term, lead in solder is pretty well tried and true and still mandated to be used in certain applications because of it's known properties.
This comment deserves an award 🥇 lol
Also jokes on us, I just checked out this guys page... he just makes videos on products of anything to plug his Amazon link to make commission...
Not to mention the need to still soldering wires on circuit boards
@@Jmont000 I've always thought of these things as a solution in search of a problem.
@@computerwizard2613 you guys are something else. He is offering this as an alternative. This is probably far better than a crimp.
I've soldered wires together and in a pinch, its a real pain to take out all my soldering stuff to my car to solder wires.
Its probably not as good as soldering, but its better than the cheaper alternatives many people use, like crimps.
SO both of you please apologise and say that its not bad what this guy offers as an alternative to lots of other inferior ways.
That's really cool, now I *wish* I had something that needed to be soldered.
You never know. I wish I had these when I cut through my 16 wire sprinkler line, these would have been amazing!
Where do we get them ?
These will also be GREAT for boat wiring needs as well.
This is a got to have some item.
👍
@@lbbradley55 Sure right here: amzn.to/3rqf9eI
@@lbbradley55 Amazon, he listed the link.
Get the machete out and go blind with it behind your t.v...tadaa solder jobs
I've had these for a while now and have used them on a few repairs. I found that the shrinking plastic is fairly thin after done, and I still use heat-shrink over these every time I use them. The heat-shrink also looks better than the look of the solder-seal IMHO. Keep up the great videos!
Never a bad idea to double shrink a connection, especially a really important one. The ones I showed are pretty thick, they feel about 3x normal heatshrink tubing but extra protection is never bad
I don’t know but soldering for me is satisfying especially if there is a bunch of wires and after you are done they all look perfect and yeah that might be the quickest and overall good but it’s also the most expensive
It's for sure not the most expensive, 120 for 13$. I would say it's same as soldering in term of price. Is it perfect? No, but it's really quick.
Sure, it might be "more expensive" if your time is worth $0.
@@rorschacht8478 My milwaukee iron heats up to usage temp in under 20 seconds and is more portable than a heat gun. When you know you're about to solder switch it on and by the time you put the heatshrink on and twist wires it's been sitting there waiting to be used.
These melt connectors really are a bandaid fix in my eyes, convenient if you only have a lighter or something, not for most professionals.
@@SnowGolem1TheL33t excatly and if you have soldered properly its a tougher joint than this, bandaid repair...
If heat-shrinking the wires "takes a long time" and that's your reason for not soldering and then heat-shrinking, then these will take you even longer.
The hardest part of using these solder sleeves is melting the solder without prematurely shrinking or burning the heat shrink.
You do actually have to twist them in a way to prevent filaments from poking out like it happened to you in 3:30
"Speed and convenience of a crimp on connector"
Ha.
I've done so many workarounds with wire and electrical tape, I just discovered this product...thanks
I was literally using these when I got the notification 😆
@plasticstuntmancom um no it isn't he just uploaded the vid the same time I was wiring a new switch in my shop vac
@plasticstuntmancom dudes a simp and can't face reality.
Just go hide from the 5G waves
@@weSteh you’re hot pocket is ready soyboy
BS they don't work at all.
I really like the way you do your videos. I can't explain things well but they are just done so precise and easy to understand. I just found your channel today starting with the generator and it was extremely helpful. The guy that get on and make comments about "oh these have been around for years." Or "well actually." Don't listen to them. None of them can put out a how to video even close to you. Also these wire connection things are new to me because I work in healthcare and have never had to use them until now. Anyway thank you again and I hope you keep up the information! Btw your house/yard looks great from what I see. Looks like you live in a beautiful area.
Thank you so much for the nice words.
Have been used in the aircraft industry for decades. In my opinion, it’s the only way to go if you can get them. The key to a good connection is to watch the solder flow or melt into the wire. Typically, you need about 650° to 700° for a proper application.
They are clearly stolen from that Raychem design but the application is a little different since I believe those were used primarily on shielded cables.
YUP!
I was in General Aviation in the '70s and early '80s. Solder splices were verboten. Did that change?
@@flhusa1 They don't generally "fall out of the sky" because of electrical connections.
2:36 this type of connecting two wires rarely needs to be done. Mostly soldering is required when replacing components on a motherboard
Twist it , tape it, shrink wrap it then seal it with a normal bic lighter. Done and just as effective.
Except for one big one you missed, you version isn't waterproof. Most heat shrink tubing isn't.
I’m so glad I get this recommended 2 days after installing an audio system in my car
🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣 That's actually cruel 😣
I just found out about these from this video. I bought the exact heat gun and I fixed my MAF wiring on my Miata, wired up a radio for it, and I’m gonna be doing a radio for my brother soon.
Compared to the olden days of solder and heat shrink or butt connectors, this is wayyyyy easier! Tip if you’re gonna use these next to a source of heat (engine bay) it wouldn’t be a bad idea to fit a heat shrink over them for heat protection.
So glad they worked out well for you. Super handy to make quick connections that last
Been using these for automotive installs for years, they really work great!
I used to use those and then I stopped. Just like shown in your video, it is easy to melt the low temp solder but it is difficult to gauge when the solder wet the copper wire, if ever. Another issue I kept having is that the heat shrink almost always burns away before solder flowed in properly. Now I do my splicing with crimp and heat shrink.
Some designs incorporate a dab of flux. Without added flux these will not actually wet the wire. That is visible in the view of the center cut portion. Holidays where there should have been solder.
@Magnanux... Had same thing you describe happen and had arcing at the connection. I don't trust them completely. Be careful!
You could always use a drop of liquid flux after stripping the wires.
I don't trust them at all....
Logically,,,that heat gun isn't getting the wire near hot enough to bond with the soldier...
New type 😂😂😂😂, I was using these during my apprenticeship. I started in 1989!
These been around for a long, long time!!!! Nothing new here.
These connectors are definitely convenient. Especially in places it is tough to get a soldering iron. I’ll never give up my old trusty Unger soldering iron, but have used these with success.
I LIVE by these now - Redid my entire lightbar setup with these and it looks great!
Crimp connectors done correctly is much easier and faster. I’m gonna order some to give a try though
Yeah I felt his argument against the crimp connector was weak, being if you use them with the wrong size wire, they don't work good, well obviously. Done correctly they work well, which I feel the video ignored
I have to say thank you for this video. My sister had a rat chew through a portion of her engine harness and it was pretty bad. I used these connectors and they helped a bunch.
Raychem/TE solder sleeves have been around for years. The example is incorrectly done. The solder ring must be completely flowed to be correctly used.
It will not melt completely, the Raychem products for aircraft was for shielded cable and may have worked differently.
Demonstration cutaway appears to show a cold solder. I used to use this exact knockoff to do some wiring for my car. Earlier generation of knockoff actually worked; solder melted all the way. However, newer one keeps on burning up the heat shrink so I ditched them all.
It’s not that it was incorrectly done, it’s that it’s a bad knockoff of the TE/Raychem sleeves. You literally couldn’t get this alloy to fully flow if you wanted to.
I've used them for years and definitely my go to wire repair method. The smaller they are the easier and quicker they are to use. At first the larger ones can blow out the shrink wrap before melting or fully melting the solder but once you master using the right amount of heat and technique they are great to use.
The Amazon reviews are literally either "These are great!" or "These are rubbish and don't work!".
These are not new
I use them at work
If other people cant get them to work then they are doing something wrong.
Iv tried them and they’re garbage. The solder in the middle never really melts and you get a weak connection.
Thanks guys for proving my point 😄
@@norcaldrones5389 you don't know what yr doin. You must heat the center first until it melts, then shrink the tubing... don't be scared to stay at one point with the open flame !
Any method that breaks at the join is rubbish. Solder best. This method is for hackjobs that rip off their customers.
I actually enjoy soldering every now and again
I can tell from your well-tinned beard
I got a box of these off Wish... WISH and they still worked good and as intended.
Probably lead in the solder but it's inside shrinkwrap and the solder doesn't get as hot as an iron... Totally worth 15 bucks for a nicely organized kit.
These are awesome. Alot of comments are saying these been around for along time, but I must say this is the first time I've seen them. I'm absolutely gonna get some. I've always twisted the wires together 😂
They are awesome for so many repairs. I got the 120pack shown in the video. amzn.to/3rqf9eI $10 for the pack is unbelievable. I think you will love them
I’ve just rewire the entire back of my van using these , absolutely fantastic!
Looks cool, but having a background in electronics, I would prefer to solder and shrink or use a good quality butt splice and shrink.
Far better join and with today's glue lined heat shrinks waterproofing isn't a problem. That solder in the vid hasn't done anything just a cold joint at best and it's not waterproof because there is strands of wire hanging out the side.
The only thing these and other connectors like them have going for them is speed and why most people use then, no one wants to pay for a quality job anymore
Thank fff I wasn't the only one thinking this. Could just imagine the reaction on the boys at works faces if I walked in with a pack of those
@@dave216dx now imagine a high amperage load
I've tried using these. Each joint takes 10 times as long as soldering. It's hard to get enough heat into the solder to melt it without also liquefying the jacket.
By the time I get out the heat gun might as well get out the solder iron and do it right. Doing lots of wires isn't a big deal once you got the stuff out doing each one is quick. Now if you have no soldering skills at all this is better than a crimp
Neat. For an even better connection you can probably slip the sleeve further down the wire, then twist stripped wire ends together, then bring the sleeve back over the stripped ends and then melt it.
This is exactly the technique I use. Works perfectly.
Ahh good idea.
It's actually better to interweave the wires similar to shown in the video instead of twisting them together. Once the solder sleeve shrinks down it creates the phone book effect which makes the wires difficult to separate even without the solder.
@@killer2600 A good mechanical connection leads to a good solder. Twisting the wires is much better. You can see the solder penetrate both.
@@russtomas4461 The phone book effect is a better mechanical connection than two twisted wires. ruclips.net/video/U-8mW_gD8Xw/видео.html
I have been using these for arcade control panels and they work great, as long as you get the heat just right.
They combined shrink tubing and those match-solder strips they used to sell at Radio Shack...
RIP radio shack 😥
@@raymond3437
IKR...Radio Shack kept me out of trouble as a teen. I feel like once they started to get away from the hobbyists/DIY and audio market, and started to focus on cell phones...that's when it started to go down. And I feel like the marketing for Radio Shack was weak too.
Tks for the review however, I noticed at 3.24min mark the copper wire seemed to have penetrated out of the tubing. Such a connection may short or give a rude shock. 😳
Those do not give the same quality as soldering. The solder in them is such a weak solder and doesn't flow thoroughly through the wire. There is a huge difference in flow between these and actual solder.
Finally someone who understands. As an guy who solders for 10+ years, I would never use the shit in this video again. I’ve tried them before and they are a waste of money, a waste of time and effort. It takes longer to repair the broken wire than soldering it in the first place. The solder doesn’t flow correctly and there isn’t enough solder to make a strong and nice connection.
Try them on truck wiring that's been exposed to the road salt etc they do not give a good connection on new wiring I guess they are ok but I would solder and heat shrink new wiring much cheaper
Thank you for introducing me to these. I had been putting off a rewiring job in my car because I couldn't figure out how to get my soldering setup into the cramped space (behind the glove box). These solved the problem, and my TPMS light is no longer stuck on!
Twist and tape has worked for me for over 40 years. Don’t fix what ain’t broken..
The only issue is that these are no substitute for soldering in term of penetration of solder.
There are videos of these being tested vs soldering and the soldered wires when cut look like one solid wire while these connections leave gaps and voids where the solder didn't penetrate.
I'm not saying don't use them or they don't work just be aware of what you're getting and what you expectations should be.
Crimping is fine as well as long as you use the proper tool. A good crimp has been likened to a 'cold weld' and is quite good as a connection method.
Of course crimp vs solder is based on more than one factor so use what's best for your particular use case
Dipping the wire ends in flux helps with that. I use quick passes from a torch lighter for max heat and they work great.
IMO the "WAGO" connector is much better for most people. It is a small plastic block that has holes you simply push the ends of the wire into. The featured product is great for professionals or for people who splice all the time. The average person would be hard-pressed to gather all that stuff together for the occasional splice and get it right.
Absolutely correct, the Wagos are the best for many situations, and the only way I do home wirng. But thei one issue is they aren't waterproof so not good for trailers, car, boat. outdoor equipment. These are great for normal wire work with extra protection
Yes, Wago connectors are the way to go for a lot of house wiring jobs. However, these couplers are primarily designed for low voltage applications, not 120/240 volt house wiring.
Used these to repair a garage door sensor wire I cut when replacing the overhead jam. The cut was above the garage door opening, so I was doing everything on a ladder. Fix took less than 5 min and I was back to my original project. I am definitely a fan.
Yes they would be perfect for that. Especially where a garage can be damp.
I just ordered the 200 pack of connectors and the heater, thanks for the awesome video. These definitely look easier to use than crimping and heat shrinking. I always watch your video’s and thrust your opinion on the different projects you do. I also bought the the Tenacity, blue dye and surfactant last summer and it worked well.
I got the engine wash 21s and will be trying it soon. Thanks Martin
I appreciate your faith in my videos. I am probably one of the few channels left that will not show something I hate or just doesn't work. Your comment is exactly why!
^2
Was just about to buy a soldering kit after struggling last weekend with a bunch of garbage crimp connectors, i'm buying this for sure.
Neat but I'll never give up soldering
I used these on my old Raytheon fire control radar back in the early 90s. For sure they’ve been around longer. Glad to see they made it to “Home Depot” finally.
I'm not crazy about how you were still able to pull that apart. Looks like a fairly easy solution but I'd still use the double twist method with heat shrink (NASA approved).
Yeah, have to say, not crazy about them pulling apart, just seems like a dangerous shortcut. And if tension isn't a factor for the splice, wire nuts are cheaper and faster. Not a lot of use cases for these.
Lillian Smith Automotive, marine...
@@Rein_Ciarfella Being on or near the ocean, or areas where they salt the roads would just bring up the concern of salt-rich moisture.
When doing marine cabling we add dielectric grease, enough so that a small amount oozes out when the heat shrink is applied. This ensures that when the heat shrink fails, an waterproof connection is maintained.
You can't add dielectric grease to these.
Lillian Smith Ok, gotcha! I’m on Cape Cod and have done a little marine wiring years ago. I used the heat shrink connectors with dielectric already inside so after you crimped then you applied heat and the grease came out the ends during the process. Never seen the ones displayed here until now.
This is a game changer. Thank you. I stop using the wire connectors, because they keep slipping off. And soldering is time consuming for this kind of situation.
For things called "speed connectors", they sure take a longer time to complete than to properly solder and apply heatshrink normally
These fittings have been around for a few years. They are OK for tight and awkward spaces and that is the only time I will use them.
The ones I bought have crimp and solder, so you can crimp them and leave them, the idea being that you can come along with a heatgun afterwards and solder multiple connections so you are not back and forth with your tools.
I still used solder, flux and collared heatshrink wherever I can, it's still the best connection out there.
"same quality as a solder connection"
And this is the point where the instructor for my mil spec soldering course would tell you "get the fuck out of my classroom".
Mil spec equipment is often a joke that they charge 1000x the price for because the government will pay out.
@@Shrouded_reaper I'm not talking about equipment from some lowest bidder defense contractor, or some civilian corporation that erroneously puts the milspec label on their products.
I wonder what would happen if you put liquid flux on the stripped wired before they are inserted? Would you get better solder penetration? I will have to give that a try.
You're definitely still going to want to flux the wires before assembly. Otherwise, you're asking for a loose connection with potentially high resistance.
There's flux in the center of these which melts with just the heat from the heat gun. We use them at my job because they're more reliable than traditional splices.
@@sauercrowder even if there's flux, which I'm skeptical of, the wires need to be fluxed before inserting. Flux draws the melted solder in and helps it penetrate between the strands for a complete connection. If no flux is applied directly to the wires, the solder is only going to bond to the outer portions of the conductor.
@@realtimjimmy Sorry, I meant that there is low temperature solder in there. My mistake
Just found your channel a bit ago and love it.....
Glad you enjoy it!
“Totally water proof” but you had a strand bust through the middle lmao
I left that on purpose on the video. if you look close it is completely encased.
Ooooooo get owned Michael! He got u there brother. Good fight
Alot of manufacturers now use such cheap wires the insulation likes to melt when heating heat shrink. We bought some of these at work and most of the guys didn't use them right so we don't have them anymore, if I see a butt connector it gets cut out, tired of chasing wiring problems only to find butt connectors corroded, never have issues with soldering though
I use these connectors for most things, and I use solder only when I need to attach a wire to something like a button lead or anything that you can’t use these for.
Everytime you post, I learn something new! This is very helpful thank you!
You are so welcome!
Dip the ends into flux before inserting into connector. Even better results.
These are a combination of things, solder preforms, heat shrink, and heat sealant. Pretty cool. Flux is definitely a good idea with preforms.
Most of the solder in that connector hadn't melted you needed a higher heat and it would have completely melted the ring of solder instead of leaving the outside of the solder ring intact.
Yeah, its supposed to be somewhere around 400 degrees, and able to finish the job in under 15 seconds otherwise you won't get as good of a finished product. Also the meshing of the wires was just painful... honestly, just crimp properly. Only place these are legitimately useful is on ground leads off of armor or shielding.
To properly use this type of connector. You must first use (SOLDER PASTE of FLUX). Solder Flux or Paste will allow Solder to Flow around all the Copper Strands for a Super Strong Joint. I just thought you might want to know.
We used them a ton when I first joined the USAF in the early 2000’s...I guess they finally sold them to the general public
Thank you for your service. We used these on aircraft when I was in the Marines back in the late 80's.
They used these in our training in 2017
@@jayneutron
I also have a background in the military, mostly welding, soldering, and brazing of all types of metals. That being said, and having never used these, is there a reason why a dab of flux isn't put on the wires to assist in the flow of solder to make a stronger connection? Is it a waterproofing issue?
@@highqualityhomemaintenance7565 In this video the author fails to mention the colors of the bands are a guide to wire gage or thickness. Red is smallest wire where blue is used on medium sized wire and yellow is thicker wire.
However, I noticed the solder does not melt and spread easily (in this video). Military grade connectors did melt and spread more easily on the exposed wire making a good connection. These were designed for the military for aircraft being exposed to salty conditions where if you used a regular crimp connector the wires would corrode and cause problems.Solder connectors provide a moisture and waterproofing seal. Plus they stack neat on a wire bundle.
I did search for these on the civilian world with no luck...until now.
Oh this looks good, thanks I ordered set of these instantly
In Germany we call this crap. Nobody uses them. And they arent even new i used this like 10 years ago before i learned how to to do it correctly
Dann sag doch mal bitte, wie man es richtig macht.
@@sebastiand152 Lötkolben, ordentlich zusammenlöten großzügig schrumpfschlauch drüber. Ist auch wasserdicht und du hast bei mehreren Kabeln keinen Knödel drin.
@@motorenbastler9289 Danke. Bei mehreren Kabeln sicher besser. Bei 2 Kabeln scheinen mir die Dinger immer noch eine Alternative zu sein. Oder was spricht dagegen?
@@sebastiand152 ne richtige alternative sind die nicht außer bei kaum zugänglichen Stellen. Durch richtiges Löten erreichst du eine viel bessere Verbindung der Kabel miteinander. Problem ist dass das Lötzinn in den Verbindern zwar heiß wird aber das kabel nicht richtig heiß werden kann somit hast du ne kalte Lötstelle. Oftmals sind die nicht 100% wasserdicht und das kabel.oxidiert und du musst alles nochmals machen. Lieber gleich löten. Einzige Möglichkeit wenn du nur ein kurzes kabel hast weil oft wird durch das Löten das kabel so heiß dass der schrumpfschlauch den du ja vorher über das kabel stecken musst schon zusammenschmilzt und man ihn nicht mehr über die Lötstelle bekommt.
@@motorenbastler9289 Danke für die ausführliche Erklärung!
I work in Aerospace/Defense doing electronic fabrication and repair. We use these all the time with shielded wires for shield grounding lugs and daisy chains in wire bundles. You have a few things wrong though (At least per MIL spec). The solder ring needs to be melted completely and needs to flow into the connection. We also use stranded and twisted wire. The wire outline needs to be visible and you should be able to see a solder fillet along the entire length of the wire.
Always stretch the electrical tape while wrapping.
With this connection electrical tape is moot. You'd be putting lipstick on a pig!
@@kortgreen7725 It is just how you use electrical tape. you learned something
@@samiam9059 I didn't " learn" any thing here. I already know how to use electrical tape. I never saw these types of connectors until now. I've always used solder on a joint. These connectors are meant for repair and I would never use them to wire a whole project just like I would never use shark bite fittings to plumb a whole house. Electrical tape is not practical as I have seen it break down after just a few years. Especially when exposed to the elements.
@@kortgreen7725 Anything, you just did
@@samiam9059 I learned from the guy who posted the video. You on the other hand, stated something I already knew.
Something similar was used in WWII for field radio repair. There were these gunpowder filled connectors that you could light and they would grip the wires and melt the solder in the middle.
Now, I don't doubt that it worked, but how many fingers were blown off in the process?
Sorry this type of connector is not new. Probably started seeing them at least 15 years ago. I have done extensive electrical repair on cars, trucks and buses for over 40 years and I can tell you nothing beats direct soldering. I have seen this type of connector fail a few times when exposed to vibration, shaking. I have seen water intrusion also in this connector . That may be due to to little heat on the heat-shrink or to much and it got melted. Learn to solder and use heat-shrink properly it's not a hard skill all it takes is practice.
Love those things. Used them this week to change connectors on a battery cradle.
I'm disappointed there wasn't an "I'm a dad, and I approve this message." Bit at the end.
Because I approve of this message.
Maybe next time! I like it
😭
this guy finds the best stuff......he's gna b last man standin when that asteroid come tumblin down2us....
Military been using these types for years.... I was using them in the 80’s USN
I found these about 2 years ago and they are great.
How do you find all this cool stuff C'mon ?
Just a tip. Dip one of the wire ends in flux first for a much better solder joint. Even the type that supposedly contain flux don't seem to.
SC.... I'm going to unsubscribe if you don't stop making me spend money on stuff. lol.
At least these are so cheap they really cant be beat!
I used these at General Dynamics back in 1980's.
They are great for soldering a ground wire to coax braided shields.
They are pretty shit though doesn’t compare to actually soldering
Is that a piece of wire poking out at 3:25?
Yes that shot is one of the many tests I recorded and I left it in, because even though I accidentally pushed the wire outside the ring it still was completely insulated, which is good.
this nice video makes the job easier
Watch out using these connectors with addressable LEDs. I've found that the insulation is rather thin on them once heated, and when I bundled the wires back together after solder sealing the wire lengths, my LEDs would not function properly because of interference.
I've found that if you're planning on solder sealing several wires and then bundling them back together tightly, then you really want to go easy on the heat to help ensure the integrity of the outer insulation of the connector, but that also means it's unlikely that you'll get a good melting effect from the solder. Also if you're using several of these in a bundle, then you'll definitely want to put electrical tape over each connection before bundling them all together to ensure a proper layer of insulation.
Try adding heat shrink over top as well
Thank you. Just ordered some to redo some of the headlight wiring I did on my truck. 🙏🏻
Expensive alternative to the standard 👏
I use these on my tractor trailer. I have found that the larger ones don't have enough solder in them. But the blue ones down to the white work well. I have yet to have one fail due to salt or corrosion. I live in upstate New York where winter is brutal and they salt the roads pretty heavily for 6 months out of the year. I still prefer to solder and heat shrink. But these are convenient especially if you don't have enough wire to keep heat shrink away while soldering.
I recently used those connectors on a aftermarket radio harness, it looked great and it made a solid connection.
It's great for those. That can be a tight spot too, these are amazing in spots like that
As long as one doesn’t use the short comings you described. How about, amazing wire connectors! Solder and shrink!!
One thing I've noticed about these is they seem to have a shelf life and if they're left out in the elements (truck toolbox, back of a car), they're as good as useless because the solder wont melt right. You'll just burn the heat shrink and the solder wont flow no matter how long you heat it.
Superb demonstration
thank you for the info.. i did not know about these connectors.. i normally solder as i have never had good reliable results with crimp connectors