Nice repair,Tony. Don't think I have ever seen a meter so badly mistreated. I do most of my dent removal with some blocks of wood and a 1 kg dead-blow mallet - great tool for hitting things! The grey color is much better. Regards, David.
Nice job. For the dented cases I learned to use a steel slapper and a lot of patience. I'm always afraid to get a hold on a Keithley because they look very addictive and already have all the addictions I can handle.
Excellent job with the hammer and paint! :) I'd get those electrolytic's changed though, as if its anything like the 2001 etc, they will die and cause all sorts of problems for the meter. Nice find BTW!
@@TonyAlbus Yes, please check or change the caps, especially the ones next to the heat sinks, they are known for leaking and causing al kinds of damage.
The case damage looks like it was used in a war zone. I only say that, because the military doesn't care about cosmetics, It only has to work. Think you're lucky it is still in electrical order. TNX Tony.
Hi Tony, nice Video! I recently restored a 2000 one too, no mechanical work at all, but Electronic stuff. Needed a Full recap, changed all the regulators bcs got damaged from the leaky caps, had to change some sot23 BJT's and zeners and to repair lot of destroyed traces, had to raise the VFD Filament Current a little bcs VFD to dimm. But it kept its Calibration quite well. BTW, The gray color looks MUCH better that the yellow Brown one :-)
Thank you!, yes the VFD go lower after time, i saw on Devx that you can parallel 2 resistors to give it more current and that gives you some more time.
Great watch, I’ve got a keithley 2100 and it reads voltage and continuity works but diode mode and resistance doesn’t. The diode mode gives weird readings and resistance gives ovrld. It also fails self test with errors 612, 613,615,617, 619 and 618. Do you know what this issue could be? And how can you update the firmware on these? Really appreciate the help. Thanks rich
That's a result Tony. A few battle scars, but a good score. Definitely not the orangey yellow gold (what were you thinking?!) 🙃 Looks better in grey, but would look awesome in Tek blue... 😉
Nice finish but you will have to learn about car body filler and then it will be exactly like new. The ochre was just too bright, I'm glad you redid the box in grey.
Thanks George, yes with body filler would be even better... i thought the gray was okey, but it looked better after i first do it orange... then the gray looks amazing instead of okey :))
I momentarily thought about Dave's adventures with 2400, ruclips.net/video/WJgiC5jMqrw/видео.html The box sure took some wallopin'. Still, coming on and we have a heartbeep. Lovely build quality. Way better and more serviceable than Dave's one... with two PCBs stacked together, getting to the bottom one for battery replacement was a pain in the ass for Dave and I don't know if he actually did it.
@@TonyAlbus nothing is cheap these days..and ppl know it ..so prices are up ..but nobody will buy for that price so eventually they have to bring prices down..
Hi Tony, how you make the Painting of the Cover of the Keithley 2000 so clean end even ??? Btw. I send you an Email with the PM6680B Pictures, Cheers, Konstantin
Yeah yeah, no worries, I was just wondering because I got one of these for 200€. I also recently got a 2001 for ~500€ imported from the US which is marked as a reject for calibration but appears to be in kind of a good state and I suspect someone changed the caps and did not do the factory calibration, causing a reject in the normal calibration. Keep up the good work 😅
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The gray was definitely the better choice in the color Tony... It looks great... 10/10
Thank you!.. oh yes the orange was terrible..
Nice repair,Tony. Don't think I have ever seen a meter so badly mistreated. I do most of my dent removal with some blocks of wood and a 1 kg dead-blow mallet - great tool for hitting things! The grey color is much better. Regards, David.
Thank you David, yes the orange was terrible... but it did make the gray look better :)
Nice job. For the dented cases I learned to use a steel slapper and a lot of patience. I'm always afraid to get a hold on a Keithley because they look very addictive and already have all the addictions I can handle.
Thank you, yes i could have done a better job, but that patience is not my best...:) love Keithley too.
Hello Tony. Can I ask you if a Keithley 2701 for 400 dollars is a good bargain?
Hi Alexander, i just checked ebay and there they go for more then double or triple your price, so it seems a good deal.
Excellent job !!!
Thank you!
Excellent job with the hammer and paint! :) I'd get those electrolytic's changed though, as if its anything like the 2001 etc, they will die and cause all sorts of problems for the meter. Nice find BTW!
Thank you Stephen! .. yes first time i used a hammer on TE :))
@@TonyAlbus Yes, please check or change the caps, especially the ones next to the heat sinks, they are known for leaking and causing al kinds of damage.
@@Sine1040 Thanks, yes maybe its too late, i wanted to sell it, i tested it, and it won't boot :(
The case damage looks like it was used in a war zone. I only say that, because the military doesn't care about cosmetics, It only has to work. Think you're lucky it is still in electrical order. TNX Tony.
Yes lucky it was electrical okey... now it also looks okey.
The meter looks very good. Much better after the cleaning.
Thank you Chris , Yes took a hammer and 2 paintjobs.. but it worked out in the end.
Nice work and very good result!
Thank you! Cheers!
Hi Tony... All Good...?? Greetings from Buenos Aires....This Tutorial is a true Masterpiece....
Thank you! , yes all good, hope also with you!.. greatings
Hi Tony, nice Video! I recently restored a 2000 one too, no mechanical work at all, but Electronic stuff.
Needed a Full recap, changed all the regulators bcs got damaged from the leaky caps, had to change some sot23 BJT's and zeners and to repair lot of destroyed traces, had to raise the VFD Filament Current a little bcs VFD to dimm. But it kept its Calibration quite well. BTW, The gray color looks MUCH better that the yellow Brown one :-)
Thank you!, yes the VFD go lower after time, i saw on Devx that you can parallel 2 resistors to give it more current and that gives you some more time.
Great watch, I’ve got a keithley 2100 and it reads voltage and continuity works but diode mode and resistance doesn’t. The diode mode gives weird readings and resistance gives ovrld. It also fails self test with errors 612, 613,615,617, 619 and 618. Do you know what this issue could be? And how can you update the firmware on these? Really appreciate the help. Thanks rich
Hi, thank you for your question. if you email me, i can send you the manual or what i have. via WeTransfer
@@TonyAlbus will do, really appreciate this tony. Thanks rich
That's a result Tony. A few battle scars, but a good score.
Definitely not the orangey yellow gold (what were you thinking?!) 🙃
Looks better in grey, but would look awesome in Tek blue... 😉
Thank you Paul!.. yes blue grossed my mind too :)
Should be able to use auto body filler on those dents and sand it smooth then prime and paint again.
Yes that would have been a great idea, thank you
Maybe "retro bright" the handle to get ride of the yellowing plastic ?
Retro bride is temporary, i will keep it like this, i don't use handles anyway..thanks, i will onces try, just to see how that works.
Nice finish but you will have to learn about car body filler and then it will be exactly like new. The ochre was just too bright, I'm glad you redid the box in grey.
Thanks George, yes with body filler would be even better... i thought the gray was okey, but it looked better after i first do it orange... then the gray looks amazing instead of okey :))
If you care to have the exact color ( as it is now ) you can take a 'measurement'with a datacolor colorreader, and have a paintshop mix it for you.
Thanks Martin, i think RAL 7006 comes very close, but i was to lazy to let it mix and ended up with something less good, but still better as it was.
Mice meter! Date code of some components is 2004- and the PCB seems to has 04-19 which should put it at 19th week of 2004
Thanks! i also saw A19 is almost last, i thing A20 is now, but upgrading needs a new calibration from A19 to A20... so maybe A19 is okey for me.
👍
Thank you!
I momentarily thought about Dave's adventures with 2400, ruclips.net/video/WJgiC5jMqrw/видео.html
The box sure took some wallopin'. Still, coming on and we have a heartbeep. Lovely build quality. Way better and more serviceable than Dave's one... with two PCBs stacked together, getting to the bottom one for battery replacement was a pain in the ass for Dave and I don't know if he actually did it.
Yes looks indeed the same box.
I hope you got it really cheaply ..as i would personally get 34401 ..that one is much better ..otherwise i would go for 2001 instead
Yes 2001 on my list, but are not cheap, using my 34401A :)
@@TonyAlbus nothing is cheap these days..and ppl know it ..so prices are up ..but nobody will buy for that price so eventually they have to bring prices down..
@@SylwerDragon yes its crazy
Hi Tony, how you make the Painting of the Cover of the Keithley 2000 so clean end even ??? Btw. I send you an Email with the PM6680B Pictures, Cheers, Konstantin
Hi Constantin, mostly cleaning well, very fine sandingpaper, then spraypaint very thin layers.
Will answer your mail tomorrow
How much did you pay for it btw? If you don't mind sharing.
It does not ad to the video so i don't. i can say a number but then you should also be so lucky to find that on ebay.. it does not matter.
Yeah yeah, no worries, I was just wondering because I got one of these for 200€. I also recently got a 2001 for ~500€ imported from the US which is marked as a reject for calibration but appears to be in kind of a good state and I suspect someone changed the caps and did not do the factory calibration, causing a reject in the normal calibration. Keep up the good work 😅
Nice! 2001 is still on my list.. nice catch!
awful yellpw beter color gray ,,sorry
Yes agree, was a bad choice