Building a Cyclone Separator Dust Collector code named the Turbulator 4000 Part I
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- Опубликовано: 5 мар 2014
- In this video I show all the initial steps and pieces I use to construct a cyclone dust separator for my wood shop. I am using standard building materials and starting from scratch. I am using a design from Bill Petz, and some things I had laying around the shop. This build has turned out to be way more than I ever expect it would be. I have three videos that show the construction of this project.
This is not a dust deputy, or a real clear view cyclone, but I am hoping it works well and stays on budget.
Welcome to Part I of the Turbulator 4000 project, where I will be constructing a cyclone separator dust collector for my wood shop. In this video, I will guide you through all the initial steps and materials I use to build this efficient dust separator from scratch.
Using standard building materials and taking inspiration from Bill Petz's design, I am excited to share this DIY project with you. I also incorporated some items I already had in my shop, making it a cost-effective build.
Throughout the construction process, I encountered unexpected challenges and learned valuable lessons. This project has exceeded my initial expectations, and I am thrilled to document the entire journey in three separate videos.
I want to emphasize that this project is not a dust deputy or a real clear view cyclone. However, I am hopeful that the Turbulator 4000 will perform well and stay within my budget.
For additional information and insights, I encourage you to check out the second video at the following link: • Building a Cyclone Sep...
And don't forget to watch the completion video to see the final result of the Turbulator 4000: • Completion of the Cycl...
Stay tuned for Part II and Part III of this exciting project, where I will share more details on the construction process and the performance of the cyclone separator dust collector. Thank you for joining me on this journey!
Tags: DIY, wood shop, cyclone separator, dust collector, Turbulator 4000, Bill Petz, construction, building materials, budget-friendly, woodworking, dust separation, project, challenges, lessons learned, dust deputy, clear view cyclone, video series
Here is some additional info in a second video
• Building a Cyclone Sep...
Completion video
• Completion of the Cycl... 
Хобби
Always happy to meet another Bill Murray fan.
Dan Baker Thanks Dan, I must say I saw this comment and went Hmmmm, I like Bill Murray but I am not sure what he is talking about. Then I started thinking about this (for a month or more) and watched the video again. I just say stuff, and "Dog and Cats, living together mass hysteria". I even laughed out loud again at myself. Stayed tuned you never know what will happen.
Like the vid. Have been working on my own cyclone. The inlet pipe gave me some problems too until I made a jig from some plywood scrap and some 2 by scraps. Basically it is just a radius cut into plywood the OD of my top hat. I put a screw into the center of my partial circle radius into another flat piece of plywood which I clamped to my band saw. I used the 2 by stock to fasten to the partial circle radius which gives me the approximate downward angle (compound angle) for entering the top hat. I used a couple of large dryer vent hose clamps to hold the pipe when I cut it. After swinging my pipe through the blade, the part left in my hands was the finished pipe cut just right. Was kind of fun coming up with that.
After that I mounted my pipe to the outside of my top hat and slowly cut out material until it matched the inside of my pipe. I used PVC for the pipe but had to use polycarbonate for the top hat. I wish I could find a large piece of PVC like you have, would have been better if I could get a glue weld like you have on yours.
Great stuff.
Pretty good video. Magic word you need to google is frustum ( I keep wanting to spell it with an 'r' after the 't' , DON'T DO THAT ). When you find a forrmula that you enter your top & bottom diameters and cone height into, that yields radi to draw top & bottom edges and "slant height" AND angle betwen your "slant height" edges, then you have gold. Mark your exact edges and about 1/2" beyond everywhere. Fold back the extra 1/2" material in opposite directions ( 1 up, 1 down ) along the "slant height" edges. Along the radi drawn edges cut the 1/2" extra material into tabs of an 1" or so width for joining, your frustum, to your other parts.
Excellent work !
Thanks.
There's a good Unfold plugin tool for Sketchup which is perfect for taking those intersecting pipe joins and turning them into flat drawings. Matthias put me on to it.
There are ground wires that you can attach to a metal duct, or drill a hole in a plastic duct, and attach it to the machine that you are using to give static electricity a path "home". I have read, however, that any collection fires most likely started by sawing through a nail, making a bigger spark. The article stated that grounding is recommended though just to be on the safe side.
Very nice. Where would I get that large-diameter green pipe. Is that PVC of similar? Thanks.
I know it is green 18 inch PVC pipe. I got it from a dumpster as a cut off from the crew putting in a pipe in a new subdivision. I am not sure where you get something like this. I was just lucky and grabbed it and thought that would be great for my cyclone.
good idea to use paper as a templet
gauge of the metal? thanks
could you use ratchet straps to help hold cone into desired form
Maybe. Or Duct Tape, Duct Tape holds and fixes everything.
Try a mix of Sketchup (3D modeling) and Pepakura (Prints developments from 3D models). They're both free, well supported and easy to learn.
Dewex Dewex Thanks for reminding me of these. I have played with "Ketchup" a few times, but not really. Sorry when I read that I skip the s and think Ketchup what does a hot dog with ketchup and mustard have to do with 3D drawing.
+Dewex Dewex MoneyandTask.com/?refid=55870
What brand and model is the sheer for cutting sheet metal?
It is a harbor freight air nibbler.
The sheet metal I used was for duct work. At first it worked OK, then I decided to empty the shop vac and unclog the filter. The suction must have tripled. I decided to check for leaks in the seam and in the other joints by putting my hand over the intake. BAD MOVE! The cone imploded. It turned the cone into a 4-sided pyramid. I popped the sides back out and it was fine for a bit. While I was vacuuming, it imploded again. Any ideas on how to fix this? Obviously I either have to use a thicker gauge of steel and make a new one or reinforce the current one. I don't want to make another one.
cynisturb Hmm, that is a bummer. Off the top of my head you could make some king of exo-skeleton and screw from the inside out into a wood type frame. Or you could put additional sheet metal inside the cone and screw into the other cone then trim the top. Good luck and let me know how you fix it.
Turning Round
I fixed it. I made two sets of rings out of 3/4 plywood. I used the table saw to cut the outer circles and a band saw to cut the inner circles with a 10 degree taper on the inside to match the angle of the cone. For each set, I rotated the two rings180 degrees so the cuts from the band saw were on opposite sides and then glued them to form one solid ring an inch and a half high, an inch and a quarter thick at the top, and whatever it worked out to be at the bottom (maybe an inch and three quarters). The bottom set was three inches in diameter less than the top so that if you divided the cone into thirds, the rings would be at the third points which worked out to be 6 1/8 inches from each other. I used silicone adhesive (the same you would use in a bathroom) to adhere them to the cone, put eight screws through the cone into the bottom ring, and 16 screws through the cone into the top ring. Let it cure for half a day (cures completely in 24 hours), and tested it. Works great with two exceptions. The lid on top (I cut the top 7 inches off a bucket and bolted it to the top of the cone) and the lid on the bottom for the catch bucket (5 gallon bucket) gets sucked in all the way when the hose gets clogged. The lids are 3/4 plywood with a slight taper on the bottom and a curved taper on the top. And if you don't shut the vacuum off within a few seconds, the catch bucket implodes.
cynisturb That is great,I am glad you got it working. It sounds like you have a powerful vacuum if is will implode you catch bucket. Keep building it better then it will work, for a long time.
+Turning Round MoneyandTask.com/?refid=55870
How does it work? Do you get anything in the vac or just a handful after a month?
Sr. Stew It works fantastic. I don't even have a bag or filter on the output. It collects everything and drops in it the can. did you see the other two videos about this project?Completion videoruclips.net/video/FWauZHjjhaAP/видео.htmlart 2.ruclips.net/video/Ship5867jgIT/видео.htmlhanks for watching.
A pro build.
bending that thing..... into cone...... is the hardest of them all...... aarrrggghhhh !!!!!!!
Something to think about. Sawdust has a very high Kst and Pmax value with a high explosion potential which your dumping into a plastic container which inherently produces static electricity. In essences your creating the perfect situation to create a fire or more likely a bomb. Not a very good idea.
This is true and something I will consider. I can easily replace the lower can lid with a lid that fits a 55 Gallon Steel drum. I am also planning on using this for a Lathe that produces a huge amount of large wood chips, but I have a few sawdust tools as well so I want to be safe.
Its still safer than just using the shop vac. If all that dust collects inside the vac and builds up, it will either blow out into the air,which is where it is most dangerous, or if the motor decides to go sparky, which happens a'lot, then there will be lots of fun. Also, much dust will eventually accumulate on the motor parts if you regularly use a shop vac. So, its still a good idea to use this, provided the material in the plastic bin is promptly and properly disposed of.
thnx. what is sheet metal thickness?
I really don't remember it was pretty thick to with stand imploding.
where the hell you get 18" PVC?????? man!
+rusty Shackleferd (mirrored eyes) It was in a construction dumpster after they put it the plumbing for a new part of the city, not just a subdivision but a couple 500 acres. It worked great. Thanks for watching.
Haaa. Hell that was my question aswell. 👍
просто но коряво
It's very easy , but too much work for you.
4:07 ....."Ear Puffs" LOLOL!! Dude said...... "Ear Puffs" Bahahahaha!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Ear Puffs, Ear Muffs Cheese Puffs, I am glad I can entertain you. I am also glad you are paying attention. Heheheheh.
Turning Round lol Funny stuff.
q
Spending 15 minutes of my time only to realize you don't even show if it works is disappointing to say the least.
Read description before watching. It could have been porn in the next few minutes.
your information in Hindi India language
Spending 15 minutes of my time only to realize you don't even show if it works is disappointing to say the least.