What Range To Zero Your AR15 - 50 yards? 100? 200? (Correction, Army = 300 meter zero)
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- Опубликовано: 28 авг 2024
- CORRECTION!!!
I miss spoke in the video guys. Army zeros at the 25/300 zero. When you zero the target is places 25 meters away but the silloutte simulates a target 300 meters away.
Show the differences of zeroing your AR15 from 25 yards out to 300 yards.
Just briefly, the advantage of the 50/200 is that at all ranges you are likely engage a man sized target, the round point of impact is within the vital zone without any holdover. That's it. And it is a powerful advantage.
That's the Zero I do, I Zeroed at 50 yards, Was hitting about an inch high at 100, I was Zeroed again at 200 yards and I was about 4 inches low at 300 yards. Shooting 5.56 62g Green Tip.
Its the absolute best zero hands down. You can hunt with this zero , self defense in cqb situations to urban. And fire fight engagements. I was in the Army . I have no clue why they didn't utilize this zero ? Special Forces and Rangers use this zero
50/200 is my zero
I hated the army 300meter zero, because of having to calculate how far downward to aim (still managed to qualify expert with that zero on a m16a2). When I bought my own ar years later, I went with to 200yard zero which was absolutely amazing for me, especially with the red dot and being able to keep both eyes open, whatever I'd put the dot on I'd hit. I'd much rather aim a little high for long range, than to have a flat aim at long but have to aim further down for anything prior.
@@somewheredec I believe the Marines use a 36 yard zero. I do tue 50/200 on my Ars. If you're using one for home protection. You could take it out the box with no sighting in amd hit a person inside a house. Just use the front sight post and keep both eyes open. You'll hit a torso size target in a house
I'm also former marine . the ar -15s I shoot are (16", 18" 20" inch FN barells) I use a 100 yd zero on all of these rifles(ammo is 77 grain BTHP ) all of the above length barrells are 1:7 twist. The 16" gives me the greatest drop, from 300 yds it is approx 12-13 inches, Human silouthette targets aim at(using Kentucky windage) the intersection of the clavicle, 400 yds aim at intersection of throat and head, 500 yds aim at forehead, all shot will be in kill zone.For the other length barrells(18",20") the bullet drops are "SLIGHTLY LESS" but will still achieve kill zone accuracy. When you are shooting to preserve life, scope adjustments are not practical, you must practice with the rifle and ammo that you intend to survive with. Remember practice practice practice.
Thank you
That's not just knowledge but wisdom my good sir. More people need to know this.
What Zero to choose ?
I like the guy who said "I Zero my rifles from my back porch to my back fence" lol !
literally just did that lmao, then i looked up what a real zero should be
From my front door to the end of my driveway ..50yd🤘👍
I believe the people who recommend 50 actually mean 50/200. Zero at 50, then verify at 200 and make minor adjustments if needed.
When you look at the 200 yard zero, that seems like the best choice IMO.
The army trained us to zero at 25 meters with the m4/m16. This 25 meter zero translates to a 300 meter zero as the bullet will drop back down through the line of sight at 300m. As long as you aim low for the abdomen on all silhouettes inside 300 meters you’ll be right on the money. The 300 is the only target you won’t aim low at, you aim directly where you want to shoot. Just my 2¢ but I’ve always qualified as an expert marksman...
I totally agree with your assessment that’s the way I was trying too 👍
I've never been in the military but i just watched a video where TMACS says he prefers 50/200 and he was Delta. Just shows its totally up to the shooter.
@@derekatwood6236 play with a ballistic calculator. They both end up being about the same. Not an exact zero for our rifles.
Using a 25M/1000in zeroing Army target, you aim at the bottom of the rectangular block and your impact X is 1.2 inches below your POA.
@@brucestarr4438 that’s for the A1 with 55 gr. M193 ball
Makes good sense to me. - Now if only I could see 100 yards !
Ha ha! My eyes are starting to go too!
And that’s exactly why I use a 50 yd zero. More than 200 and I need a scope!
I was in the US Army as an Infantryman and I have NEVER had a 100 yard zero. You zero at 25 and when you are done confirming your zero, you adjust your elevation for 300 yards. Thanks for the correction! ;)
The US Army 25M zero for a M16A1, the POI is 1.2"s below your POA. Basically it is the same as a POA/POI 50 yard zero. Plus the short & long range apertures were in different planes. They changed the POI from each other.
Dear god, thank you! Lol. I was told 36 yrds. I purchased my first lpvo and zeroed in at 36 yards. Lol, it was great up to 50 yards, than at a 100 yards i was was high. I then zeroed in at 100 yards and, using the moa, was hitting perfect 50 yards 200 yards 300 yards. But at first, I blew threw through over a hundred rounds of 556, just trying to hit this huge paper target a 100 yards away. I was beyond pissed. 😂
36 yards is much more popular now then when I made this video. It’s a good zero for home defense ( where you really don’t need to shoot past 50 yards. Still to this day I zero all my rifles at 100 yards. Never had any issues. Thanks for watching!
Same, then using M118lr ball I rezeroed at 100yds. Mil/Moa scope with turrets cut for the round, scope offset, and barrel length I am right on 300/400/500/600yds. The right combo of ammo, optic, rifle helps you not have to go true up a dope table then adjust for set bullet drop against whats etched into your reticle. Its kinda done for you and it all matches up with what you see for the most part.
Problem, most people dont know what distance the combo they shoot is relatively unaffected by wind, temps, inclination/declination. They have no idea what the comfortable sweetspot is and where they have to put in work as their percentage hit rate drops off.
As someone who has no experience shooting long range and no training let me say I appreciate this video so much. Short and simple! Thanks for the help I’ll definitely will be able to hit my targets at 100 years to 200 yards !
Thank you for watching! Have fun shooting!
@Roger F. Thanks for your video....do you havd the pdf version of that document that has all the drop charts with it. I used to have it but I lost it
@@patriotwarrior_556 Google image search for AR-15 zeros this image pops up, screen shot it and you got it!
That was an excellent review. I believe the main point many leave out is that the 36 yd zero is the way to go if you’re using some type of holographic device, red dot, ACOG, EOTECH, whatever. Point of aim/point of impact at 36 yards = 100 yards which is where every sight with a bullet drop compensator should be zeroed. The 25 yd zero was the standard for decades because a body hit is a body hit.
Thank you! You make a good point!
Armson OEG with 36 yard zero is best
36yrd don't equal 100yrd
36 is close to 300 POA/POI. You’ll be hitting the base a man’s neck at 100 if you aim for center mass with a 36 zero.
Dude! This has to be the most informative, factual, and well explanation of such a controversial topic!
Thank you, sir. I appreciate that very much. I try to approach my videos unbiasedly and with a little common sense. Thank you for watching!
Former US Army Drill Sergeant here. I do like the video. Couple of points. Acog and EOtech zero process is different. However, if you are talking about irons, all are zeroed to 300 meters. This applies to the M16A2, M16A4, M4, and M4A1. Carry on.
I Got out a long time ago so i'm curious what distance do they zero EoTech's and ACOGs at? I have my EOTECH on a 10.5 barrel LWRC M6IC and its zeroed at 25 yards right now but I don't know if I like that zero, and my ar-15A3 is zeroed at 100 with a 1-6x24 Vortex, I really like that zero on that rifle and scope.
@@andygumpthesecuritychump4238 Too much to cover here. Recommended you download a copy of FM 3-22.9. It discusses offsets for irons and the M68 Aimpoint on the M4. I'm not familiar with barrel lengths less than 14". However, I know that SOCOM uses them so I'm sure if you dig around you could find a TM that offered guidance. Best of luck to you.
Great to know! Thanks for the comment! Why would a 300M zero be good for iron sights? Just trying to learn lol. Thanks for your service by the way!
@@chrism6904 irons are to bulky for anything past 300. When we zeroed our weapons it's for the qualification range which only reaches out to three hundred. Also think of an engagement past 550 meters and you're better off just using a rough hold over to keep their heads down. I usually zero red dots at 300 just because I think it's the most practical zero for no magnification
The Army standard 25/300m zero is just another example of how badly the Army does at BRM, and refuses to listen to institutional knowledge from the units that actually shoot. Less time wasted on D&C and more time on the ranges would make a better soldier.
I never zeroed at 100 yards in the Army. We zeroed at 25 meters with the 25/300 target.
Me too. I just stick with what I've been trained to do.
Same as well. For the 25m you shot just above the burm. 300m aim for the head to make everything simple.
Maybe you should mention different calibers AR-15 comes in, and different bullets, weights, and different barrel lengths.. is your line of sight 3 in high at muzzle or 1 1/2 that's most relevant..... There is more error in point of aiming by shooter (usually to 300 yrds)than a few inches of bullet drop from gravity..
That 25 and 50 looks like breathing techniques wasnt very good.
25 yrds was was easy because if you can get a tight group at 25yrds your zeroed.. It will be the same at 100-200yrds provided you use proper technique. Sight picture, steady aim, breathing, trigger squeeze. Now 300 and beyond will kill, but it takes a bit more patience and good eye sight. 300+ yards I used to use the sand bag or mag rest for those.
The fact that you don't even have 1,000 subs is dumbfounding. Your knowledgeable, you break it down great and you have a pointer. I understand that I am 5 years late, but brother keep doing what you're doing and you got a sub from me.
Thank you! That is much appreciated friend. I use to have more but RUclips had that big purge last year and deleted a bunch of users subscribers. I trying to work my way back up but I need to start putting out more videos. Thank you for your support!
Roger, you are on point. For all of my rifles I always zero at 100 yards. I find that differences in ammo and barrel length all seem to average out nicely at 100 yards. Plus I use most of my riffles for hunting which 100 yards in the woods is about all you are going to get and when hunting a field its easy to hold off or adjust your reticle. I almost always hold off. Of course this depends on your scope graduations also but with all my scopes being 30/30 reticle style 100 yards is the best zero for just about any ammo choice. Of course this is just my experience with off the shelf ammo and readily available hunting scopes.
Thank you sir! 100 is my preferred as well for general shooting.
My girl and I shoot with a 25 meter zero. Its what we were first trained with when we got our ARs. We both shoot 3-4 times a month in competitions (Practical Rifle, 2-Gun and a tactical class we both signed up for). We know that inside of 20 yards, we aim a couple inches high, 30-50 we aim pretty much dead-on, and 50 to 200 we aim a few inches low. Seems like a lot to remember, but we do it so often that its second-nature now.
The key is PRACTICE! When we go to the range, we check our zeros (shoot tiny -1" groups at 25 meters) then we move on to the 200 that has a berm at 100. There we shoot paper at both 100 and 200 to know our POI compared to our POA. Without sounding like a bragger, we are both in the top 10% of the groups we shoot with. In fact, last week we were helping set up a stage on our 200 yard bay and she shot an 8" plate from the sitting position, first shot. But again, our key is practicing.
Great points made. I should probably get out and practice more myself.
I guess I'll chime in. Was in the Marines and we did a 36 yard bzo and confirmed it to 300 and made adjustments at that point. It's technically a 300 meter zero but we did a bzo of 36 yards to get us on paper at 300 meters. This was the way no matter if it was a m16, m4, m27 (pretty sure back in the day m14s) and regardless if it was irons or rco.
Edit: I want to clarify that with a rco the tip of the POST is 300 meters. Use the POST to aim at 36 then move back to 300 and use the POST to aim to confirm.
With m16 A2 there is a zero setting using the same procedure.
With m16 A1 use the long range aperture using the same procedure.
Modern AR-15 irons aren't like A1 or A2 sights there is no zero setting and the aperture only vary in size (I am 98% even the ones that the aperture rocks like A1 sights) while maintaining the same point of aim point of impact but still the same procedure.
rah devil, was gonna say the same, but than I saw yours. Got out in 2010, when we’re you in
@@Whiskey5_ 2012 to 2016
Great stuff, brings old memories back. Well I'm use to the 25-300 zero, I'm almost 70 and still get a good shot or two out there at around 300 yd, with pretty good placement and using iron sights, I don't think I can hit a squirrel at that distance though, maybe with the prism scope. But overall it does pretty good even at 25 yd, so is a compromise but since I'm used to it is what I have used for many decades and it works for me. I understand that now a days you have different scenarios that require a different approach, I do have a little precision 22LR (for small game) with a Vortex Prism scope cuz my eyes are older, but the rifle shoots pretty straight, if I see it I can hit it type thing. GOB BLESS! 2A for a better future!
Thank you for watching! It all personally preference really. It’s hard to say one is better. Do what works for you is what I tell people.
The lead instructor for ICE told me that for urban use the 50/200 is best especially when configured with the new eotech. With the reticles one can size up distance, targets and send fire incredibly quickly.
That makes sense!
The rifle range in my area is only 100 yards. That's good enough for me! I'm not a sniper either. Shooting a human at 300 yards is going to be hard to justify to a grand-jury on how it was an imminent threat to your life.
Simple, tell them he had a Remy 7 or M40 barking and you had to put him down. lol
Exactly. I'm only here because my irons were dead on today at about 20 yards, but they were way high at 30, at a local indoor range today.
i think its more for shtf scenarios. at actual sd range zero is mostly irrelevant
What if it's a threat to someone else?
at 100y it could be very hard to prove a threat even to someone else. unless its a live shooting. the da has to prove it wasn't justified but often a lack of supporting evidence on shooters part is proof it was a crime. also depends on where you are.
In the Marine Corps, I used the M16A2 with 20 inch barrel. 36 yards/33 meters was the same at 300 meters. This was used to set up your elevation knob for longer distances 300 - 800 meters.
I don’t understand why more don’t use 36yard zero. I’m no Marine or ballistic nerd but a 36 yard zero with my iron sights allows any 4” diameter plate to be hit from muzzle to 300yards AND it allows me to lollipop the target ontop of the front sight post as range increases to a dot sitting on top of sight post.
If you plan on running a red dot with a magnified optic, I'd recommend against a 45 degree mount specifically because of the concept explained in this video.
My 16" general purpose rifle runs a Trijicon RMR mounted at 12 o clock above my LPVO with a 30mm tube mount.
Running M193, and with the height over bore at roughly 4.5" on that red dot, a 66 yard zero gives you a very flat point of aim to point of impact from 25 yards to very, very near 300 yards.
I liked the setup so much, I've gone to it on every AR I've built that runs a scope. Having the ability to keep my head more vertical for close quarters engagements has been one added benefit, as well as the ability to use the dot to line up my sight picture for longer shots very fast.
I even run that system on my AR10 in 308 with a SeeAll Open Sight.
Thanks for sharing!
So funny of the million over complicated videos on zeroing, This is by far the best video at explaining the difference between the ranges and why you would zero at each one. I also agree with the hundred yard zero it makes more sense to me.
Thank you for commenting and for watching. The compliment is greatly appreciated and I am glad you enjoyed the video. Take care!
If you're in the comments and see this you need to use the 36-yard zero. It is without a doubt the best zero that gives you the best group from 1 yard to 300. You'll be within 8 inches at any range in between.
I found when I zeroed at 36 yards 5.56 the bullet rises alot at 100 yards is this normal
@Defeat Ignorance
Does that include red dots and bdc reticals?
Yeah it’s literally the best all around, there’s no question. Even all the way out to 450 yards, aiming at the top of the head would be an effective shot to the gut.
Well it depends on how much that person trains or if that individual has a bdc reticle.
@@clutchitup8565depends on round and sight over bore. My 20” carry handle with m193 intersects 3” high at 100, max height of 4” at 200, and back down to intersect 300 in bullseye IF I can do my part locating my lil’ target out there at 300.
Everyone should learn on Iron Sights, and practice them. 3 times in the last year I have seen people at the range takeout their AR15 only to find the red dot is dead, and they start packing up. "Why don't you use you backup (iron sights)?" All of them awnsered "I dont know how to use them". So I taught all of them proper sight alignment, how to adjust them, and get them sighted in (usually at 100y, unless they dont want a 100y zero). I shoot iron sights allot, not all of my AR's have iron sights, on my 1-6 ACSS it has an etched reticle so I dont see a need, all of my AR's with red dots have backup irons, but I perfer A1 or A2 style AR15's, carry handle uppers, I wish I had bought an A2 carbine back when they were redily availible, finding one now or sourcing parts is almost impossible, since all the A2 uppers dont have M4 cuts, but the barrel extensions do.
My AR15 are match rifles for Across the Course where we shoot at 200, 300, 600 yards with heavy match bullets. I zero my rifle at 100 yards and then apply the known correction factors to the sight (clicks). 100 yards is very practical and its just a four .5 MOA clicks for a 200 yard zero, assuming the elevation drum is 1/2 MOA as they normally are in an AR15. My windage is a bit different at 1/4 MOA and do not move the front sight that I keep at mechanical zero. For my type of shooting, messing around with the front sight is very impractical so all adjustments are done with the rear sight. This is different from hunting or target shooting with lighter and short AR carbines not designed for National Match Course and with different sights like the MABUS rear sights which have no elevation adjustment . Never the less, I agree with you that 100 yards or meters is the most versatile zero for most distances (if I am not shooting for points) that include informal target shooting, short range competition, hunting or self defense. When I was in the US ARMY basic training back in 1976, we used the 25 meter zero which allowed that 55gr bullet to hit on half silhouettes at 350 meters (max distance in the rifle qualification course).
This is the best video regarding sighting an AR. Been debating whether i wanna do 50 or 100 yards. 100 it is
100 is also my go-to. The great thing is you can always change it if you don’t like it 👍 Thank you for watching!
Good video and explanat
ion. It depends on the rifle, the precision of the rifle and your needs as to what you are going to shoot, the bullet, the site, scope or iron, center bore to center of sight, and what range you are shooting. I have been shooting this cartridge nearly since it was created and competitively in the Army. I zero my AR's using point blank range. Meaning what ever the precision is needed such as I use a 3 inch circle for ground hogs and is a different zero for 40 gr bullets vs a 65 gr bullet. Usually 175 to 225 yards. Check a Ballistic chart and then shoot to verify it.
Example, 40gr bullet. 3600 fps, g1 bc .2, 1.8 in bore to sight, 200 yrd zero. Dead on at 50 yards, 1 inch high at 100 and 150. Zero at 200. 2.3 inches low at 250 and at 300 about 6 inches low and about 12 low at 350 and a little more than 18 at 400. Easy to calc hold over. So for that bullet I could 50 yard zero but the same as 200 yard zero.
If you are a rch off at 50 it is amplified at at further ranges. A 1/4 of an inch at 50 is an inch at 400. Factor in group size and I might have missed my groundhog.
Run your calc through a Ballistic calculator and determine what is best for you. I am not in the habit of cranking my scopes either. That is what the dots and grids are for on my scope. Learn them. It remind me of a receiver I had that the selector had an option for " I don't give a shit". So it all "depends". Best zero is one achieved by pratice, practice and more practice.
Thank you for watching and for sharing some wisdom! I appreciate the tips and will consider them the next time I zero. You are correct, there are many, many things to consider when picking a zero. Have a great weekend!
Thanks, I may not be as steady on the trigger that I once was but I know what I know. I have gone many times with 75 hits until I miss in a string of groundhog shooting. It wasn't zeroing that caused the miss, it was the wind. No Bragg just fact and did some years at Bragg, please don't change the name. Have a good one
I was about to write this but really didn't want to lol. Ballistic App and PBR zero is the best way to go.
In 1968 I don't recall firing at paper on the range at under 200 meters. Started with a week of dry fire. Put the firing pins in. In my case switched to a fiberglass stock for duration of qualifying for a longer length of pull. Fired from a bench at 120 inches (can't remember the number) in order to be on the paper at two hundred meters. Fired for a week at 200,300 and 500 meters. Full disclosure I qualified Marksman with the M-14 after blowing my kneeling sitting rapid fire and my last 500 shot prone...the wind stopped. Coach apologized for the wind and said it was his fault. I was not happy but a year later I qualified Expert in Okinawa with the M-16 I carried in Vietnam. I 'm still not happy about the blown string, it was a smallish group just high. All I can think of is I reverted to a POA POI hold in my hurry. We were sighted for 6-oclock sight picture. There were no do overs except for equipment failures in case you'all were wondering. At advanced infantry training we converted to Point of aim point of impact BTW. Not arguing, just an old war story.
Great story. Thank you for sharing!
Hi -I used a ballistics calculator assuming a Frontier 5.56 55 grain M193 FMJ with BC of 0.243 and 2.7 in sight height and it does show a slightly flatter trajectory with a 100 yard zero than a 50 yard zero in the 25-200 yard range. But then over the 25-300 yard range the trajectory with the 50 yard zero is flatter (at least for the Frontier bullet I analyzed). I would say play around with the calculator for your specific ammo to find the zero that fits your situation and then verify on the range. Thanks!
👍
36/300 yard zero like the marines. Point of aim point of impact 25-300 yards
The 36 came into favor because of the ACOG; 36/100 then use the BDC. When I was in we used the 25 yd cause all we had was irons. Course I agree that the 200 or 300 bzo is much better for irons only than the 25 but if all you’re looking for is body hits then 25 is good to go.
@@fanman8102 25 yard zero has a much wider spread past 100 yards compared to 36 yard zero regardless if you're using an optic or not. 50 yard zero is tighter till you get out past 200 then 36 is again tighter so overall from 0-400 the 36 yard zero will give you the most consistency without having to worry about holds.
The 36 yard zero has been working for me from there out to 300 yards with a red dot.
@Carne De Lagarto
The only video game that I was ever any good at was Pong.
I've also played Frogger a few times.
As far as the 36 yard zero goes, it's a convenient distance for zeroing 5.56 M-Forgeries w/RDS on my home range.
It really works. (for me)
If the AR-15-A4 is fitted with as issued detachable carry handle BDC sight and shooter wants a BDC function from the sight: Properly adjusting the M4/M16-A4’s sights for a 300-meter Battle Sight Zero (BSZ) will sync the sights for a Bullet Drop Compensation function (BDC).
The “Battle Sight Zero” supports engagement of unknown distance targets, allowing the shooter to aim center mass on an “E” type target and achieve a hit from muzzle to 300 meters with bullet impacting no more than 10 inches above point of aim, and hit to 350 meters with bullet impacting no more than 10 inches below point of aim. Utilizing the whole 20 inches of target below center of mass hold allows the shooter to hit a target out to 400 meters.
Once zeroed for a 300-meter battle sight zero, the elevation wheel can now be hastily re-adjusted for engagement of known distance targets beyond 300 meters. This adjustment is known as Bullet Drop Compensation. The numbers on the wheel represent distances in meters. Bottoming out the wheel to 6/3 the BDC is set for 300 meters. Clicking up to 4, or 5 adjusts the trajectory of the round to engage targets at the corresponding distance (i.e. 4=400m, 5=500m). One full revolution up from 300 correlates to the number 6 on the left side of the 3. Thus set, elevation is now adjusted for 600 meters. Creds: CMP-USAMU certified MRI coaching SDM/SAFS, US Distinguished Rifleman, and NRA Long Range American High Power Rifleman.
Most COMBAT operators with M-4 style (14" barrel) using a RED Dot zero in at 50 yards!
I personally did the 50 yard zero for my red dots and am able to ring a small steel plate dead center essentially at 200 yards on it.
Awesome. Well done
In Ranger school we zeroed our rifles at 100 m… This was also true for combat…The reason for this is multi fold… But this ensures you will never shoot over your target and you also are not Covering your target with your site compensation… If you’re going to miss ..miss low..In high stress situations at close range most people shoot over the target without training you do not want to compound this by zeroing out 300 and already being high
Thank you for sharing your knowledge! We all appreciate it. It’s nice to know the details of why you zeroed at 100m.
Thank you . You just supported why I zero at 200 yds .
Thanks for watching!
You should check-out the 36yd zero. Vigilance Elite covers it nicely*
For a red dot, not a scope.
Kevin Sykes asked the question that all need to know as this chart can be thrown out the window as it only works for the specific barrel length, twist rate, grain, and overall muzzle velocity that the shooter who created that chart is using. You will not get the results on that chart. It is why when using an ACOG or bullet drop compensator the user must match the muzzle velocity that the optic is set for otherwise the numbers don't match up. Check the specs on any major brand used in service today - Eotech, ACOG etc. --- the company will state what the rifle setup was that got that specific bullet drop calculation. Go to a range that will carry the distance you will need and put a ton of rounds out to different distances using different zeros to know what YOUR rifle will do when using specific ammunition.
At 'em boys Give 'er the gun!
Thank you for this post, it is really informative, far the clearest explanation I've seen for what questions I had. The zero for the AR15 A2 was a little confusing, to me at least because, I was unsure with my Colt A2 with a 25/300m zero where the bullets would be headed, (not had it on a long range yet) in any of the intermediate ranges and your video explained that perfectly and made a lot more sense as to why that zero was chosen for a battle rifle. I adjusted the drum yesterday so I can go 3 clicks down from the 8/3 position and the front sight accordingly, this in theory gives me a 100m zero, 2 clicks down a 50m zero and the 25/300 zero back on the 8/3 setting. I will see how close those work out when the weather improves and I can get to an out door range. Having watched your video I have a much improved understanding, and will concentrate on getting a good 100 yd zero with the 8/3-3 setting. "Three Cheers" for whoever compiled the graphic a picture truly is worth a thousand words on that one.
Thank you for watching!
I bought a DPMS 7.62/.308 Recon Gen2 a couple of years ago . Put a nice Vortex 4x16 scope on it ($500). I have given up on any thing beyond 100 yards. What an expensive tool to not be able to group beyond 100. I’ve removed the scope (put it on a bull barrel.223 in my collection) and put the Magpul pop up sights back on it. Lesson learned. Just because you have the caliber, if the platform ain’t right, she ain’t gonna perform as expected.
Yeah, 300 blackouts aren’t very effective beyond 100-150 yards. They’re a heavy bullet and just don’t have the velocity.
36 yard ir 33 meters is the best zero for 25 to 300 yard engagements. 6” spread.
I want to zero my 308 at 36 yds, but I only see it done with 556 (Shawn Ryan Vigilance elite). Any recommendations for me to find such info?
Philosophy Strother no idea how that will work. I zeroed my 308 at 200.
I stared out with the 50/200 and carried my patrol rifle with that zero, but then I decided to go with a 100 yard zero. Always easier to aim a little high. After watching a video on a subject shooting at officers, from a vehicle and the officers rounds falling short. And I know my hold over, at cqb. It works for me. Know your dope!!!!!!
the best method is first identify the size of the kill zone, then the max distance you want to hit the kill zone, then pick the flattest trajectory that hits the most kill zone targets out to your chosen distance, i myself perfer a no hold over trajectory for the simple reason that front sight can block view of where you need to hold, especially at long ranges but what really matters is what ever zero you choose its if you hit your kill zone wether you hold under or over knowing where to hold to hit your kill zone, shooting air rifles also for most of my life having a dozen different velocities, over 100 different pellets with different ogives and profiles and over 25 different grain weights, we air gunners know trajectory well because we have to, we have much more drop, lots of wind drift, we make more ballistic calculations for targets of many sizes, and other variables to deal with far more then center fire rifles wich gives us vast experience because we shoot alot being the cost is cheaper to do more tests, at the end of the day its all about hitting your kill zone out to your prefered distance despite your zero, if kill zone target gets hit every time with using more then one sight in then it doesnt matter, its all about making hits on kill zone never missing any out to your disired distance you choose, combat, plinking, competition and even extreme long range are all different from each other. in a imperfect world you can have flat shooting with out hold over nor long range shooting with out hold under, some where in a trajectory path you will have hold under and hold over depending on distance
Well said.
You make fair points, but something that always need to be answered when discussing the “best” zero is: which type of sight you are using?
Some types of sights are limited to actually confirming shot groups at different distances.
I zero my scopes at 100 yards and my 2 MOA red dot at 50 yards. I tried zeroing a red dot with a 3x magnifier and it was frustrating to say the least. The good news is if you zero at 50yards you will end up with a maximum point blank range of around 50-200 yards.
Also a good point!
I see your point about different zero distance. I was taught 25m/300m and just recently learn about 50m/200m. But won't zero in at 100yd or 200yd limiting you from shooting 300yd. It is alright if it were use for hunting game. It is easier to understand your weapon if the spread is vertical from the neck to the belt of a human silhouette.
Thanks for watching. I don’t think I’ll ever need to shoot 300 yards. That’s just my opinion though.
I’m zeroed at 50 because I’m in an urban setting. I will try my current zero at a 100 yards next time just for fun see how it does. I use a red dot that allows for using the back up iron sights.
What did you like better?
Battle Sight Zero depends greatly on two things:
1. Barrel length
2. Cartridge used (i.e. projectile and powder load)
Claims of a universal, one size fits all Battle Sight Zero are completely bogus. The correct answer is complex and requires a complex ballistics calculator. You want a Battle Sight Zero that will hopefully provide a solid kill shot on a man size silhouette at 25 - 300 meters. This may not be possible with some cartridges or loads.
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Respect for only using iron sights 👍 I just got a new pair of sights coming cant wait to use them then rezero the scope its a win win
Thank you, sir. And Thanks for watching.
Thanks for your presentation. I've seen the title of the video you mention but have not watched it. You have mentioned sighting in at 100 or 200 yards, with a preference for 200 yards. That happens to be the NRA recommendation for typical hunting scenarios. Certainly zeroing for a particular range is dependent on primary target range of the shooter.
Not that I have one or anything, your on the right track. When all else fails your irons all you have. He who knows the basics lives longer.
You've got to have extremely good marksmanship and tons of extra ammunition to zero it at 100 yards.. that's why the military zero is done at 25 yards
Right? Thats a long way to see and aim with irons
Thanks homez. That was incredibly informative. Took a bit to wrap my brain around but that chart helped a ton. U d man!
Thank you for watching! Hope it helped!
50 - 200 for me on most of my 223's. Lots of times I like a 150 zero. I like it for coyote hunting. Use the setting you want. 'I can see the 25 -300 if SHTF & yer defending yer home from creeps who want your house out in the country.
There don't have to be a certain setting. Do the armed service settings if it makes you feel good & works. Keep One AR set up that way & practice with it. But forget about that one for open sight varmint hunting. If just one rifle remember the clicks & make a card & write down the markings, go back & forth, use want works for you that day.
Well said. Thank you for watching!
MPBR generally referred to as the 36yd zero is the best all around although it will vary depending on altitude and ammo selected.
Where I'm at in Colorado it's a 41yd zero and I hold center mass out to 300 with a 6" spread
Zero at 200 is a little better than the 100. Due to that all your impacts will be slightly above the sight post rather than slightly below the sight post. If you look at the 100 yard zero the 100 is center and all the other yards are below the center. Where the 200 yard zero all the yard impacts are above the center and just the 25 yard is the only yard below your sight post. God Bless.
Its like I said, eveyone has their own preference! Ive never seem that trick before. I'll check it out. In the military we zeroed for 100 yards with a target placed at 25 yards ( making it easier). Thanks for the comment!
Wisconsin Northwoods you mean a 300 yd zero at 25yds considering the point of aim point of impact is the same
@@cooperjones6235 yes thats correct 25=300 center mass black all day...
But my iron sights are 25 yrd
My holosun red dot is 36 yrd
chris aviles ahh gotcha
While the old adage applies, "AR Zeroing opinions are like rectums......everybody has one!" I must say I really like the logic and facts behind this presentation. Laws of ballistics and trajectories are such that certain things are gonna happen, regardless. So, just know the options and pick what is best for your style and type of shooting. Thanks.
Thank you! I appreciate you watching and commenting. I agree, everyone has different needs and perspectives so zero your AR whichever way makes you happy.
Screen shot the image also. I did.
Thank you dude!
Anytime. Thanks for watching !
Pretty much everybody in the know agrees that 36/300 is the zero to use
I use mine too shoot deer and groundhogs on the farm and I keep mine at a 200 yrd 0 IDK why my dad had every one of his at 100 and I thought about it but when I pull up my rifle now at 25 I know where to put it to shave his chin hair and blow out the back of a standing groundhogs neck so I just left it been shooting that 0 for 8 years now why change something that works for me... Deer though I fold up deer like no tomorrow they fall in place in all that time I've had 1 make it 3 yards I aim for high on the neck but I don't shoot over 400 with that small rifle I don't feel it would have enough energy any further than that. If you're hungry in the woods like you said in your scenario aim from the the upper half of the neck about 3-10 inches from the shoulder that whole big area you won't have to look hard it'll be laying right there!
Different charts have different impacts. I have a chart that shows the 50 yard zero hitting equivalent to your charts 100. So ultimately don’t use someone else’s charts and find out what your personal rifle will do.
Agree.
I'm a new ar 15 owner, and I came across ur video. I like the sound of your advice, and gonna try to 0 my ar with flip up plastic sights(I have a Noveske N4, .556). I subscribe, hopefully I'll come across more helpful videos from u! Thank u! From Alabama
Im no sniper,and shoot whatever grain pill i can find at a good price, that being said the 25yd zero works good for me.
Same here!
The VTA sheet you are using is incorrect. It differs wildly from what I use to teach this for the Army. Here’s an example: look at the light grey 25m zero dot. If I zero my weapon at 25m, that grey dot would be centered only at 25 and 300. Here, it’s shown as hitting center at 50, 100, & 200 when we all know the 25m zero dot should be much higher on the target, especially at 200 since 190m is the apex of the ballistic trajectory. Not trying to bash you, but somebody created an incorrect sheet that you happened to use.
In reality, 25/300 gives the tallest shot string, 50/200 the shortest.
Refer to FM 3-22.9
Thanks for sharing. I’ll try and locate a different sheet.
Depends on the ammo, veloscity, barrel length, etc. I use m183 and a LPVO with BDC and anside mounted red dot. I zero in what matches my BDC and follow suit with the red dot.
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You could spoken just a little bit about the arc of travel that makes the ar hit in those groupings. But this is a very helpful video with the visual aid and your explanation! Thanks!
Best video on explaining how to zero bro great job.
Thank you!
1. Iron sights are the most honest things in your life. They don't lie.
2. Everyone's METT-TC (or TSL) is different. If you are moving from A - Z, the environment changes, so a 200-300 yd zero may work best.
3. I prefer 200. But again, that is for my personal METT-TC
I happen to love iron sights 👍
This is entirely dependent on velocities.
Another reason some use a 50yrd zero is because your trajectory of the round will be about 2.5 inches above your line of sight out to 200yrds, as for a 25yrd zero your trajectory of the bullet will be at around 8 inches higher closer to 200yrds before dropping to POA at 300yrds.
Good points !
I was taught to zero my deer rifle at 100 yards ! 2” high of dead center mark ! 1” high at 200 dead on at 300 yards!
I don't care about offset after my *point blank range* the range at which a dead arm | *POA* | would have a *POI* offset
My 300blk sbr i have zeroed to 50yds, short range, and the full length 5.56 at I zeroed at 100yds with a bushnell lpv, for medium to long distance. All seems to work well for me
Great video! Thank you! You listed the options nicely!
Thank you, Mark!
100 yard for me. I like to be close to dead on out to 100ish yards. Just use " tennessee elevation" for longer distances. Just learn which mildot works for that distance. Keep it simple 👌
Well said 👍
It also depends on the barrel length and ammo your using too.
Exactly!!!
Set mine to 100 as well. I had the same epiphany as you back when I got my rifle.
Great minds think alike! Thanks for commenting!
I'm no expert. Nor am I naive to believe that just because I served in the Marine Corps that I'm some kind of marksmanship "know it all". With that being said, during my time as an active duty Marine, my service rifle was zeroed at 300 yards. The term we used was BZO for "battle sight zero".
We shot at 36yrds for bzo sighting in.
I am no expert either, but to be clear, did you set up a paper target at 300 meters, then take three shots and then walk back out to see the point of impact and then make your sight adjustments? In the Army we had a special card that was about one foot by one foot with many square boxes and each one represented one click and we shot at it from 25 meters.
USMC zero is 25 meters (36 yards) with a target that simulates 300 yards
This is incorrect. 25 meters is not 36 yards.
@@TargetAcquisition reading comments convinces me what a bunch of ignorant guys are out there! Pathetic!
You should mention which round you are using. There are several variables. Even if you are assuming they are shooting .223 or 55.6, there are still different bullet weights and barrel lengths. All those come into factor for the trajectory.
Agreed. Sorry about that. Thanks for watching!
It's 37 for defensive, not target shooting. Also you need sight height will also change all those numbers. It's very personal decision and one must train their respective holds.
I zero 25 yards that’s what we used in the army so that what I go with if I were to go with any other of these zeros it would probably be the 200 yard
The US Army uses a 300 meter zero fired at a 25 meter target, not a 100 meter zero. Maybe the chairforce or Navy uses a 100 yard zero. The Marine Corpse zeroes similarly to the US Army, though I think they use yards not meters. The point of impact at 25 meters is the same at 300 meters when zeroed for 300 meters and is why a 300 meter zero is obtained by zeroing on a 25 meter target, similarly the point of impact at 50 and 200 meters are the same for a 200 meter zero and is why a 200 meter zero is obtained by zeroing on a 50 meter target. The longer the distance the greater the difference between yards and meters. I had to learn the conversion because civies use yards, meters to yards = 1.094 and yards to meters = .914. 300 meters is 328.2 meters, 300 yards is 274.2 meters. The max eff range of an M16 is 550 meters or 601.7 yards, an M4 is 500 meters or 547 yards. At short distances the differences between meters and yards is basically irrelevant, it becomes an issue the greater that distance is. The guy this person is mentioning may have been talking about a 200 meter zero and mistakenly called it a 50 meter zero because it is zeroed on a 50 meter target while you where thinking in yards. I don't know I wasn't there, but this could have been a case of miscommunication. Note, the 100 yard and 200 yard zero are very close with a slight edge to the 200 yard. This chart in yards is not identical to a meter chart, but it is close.
Army and Marines use 100m zero when zeroing in ACOGs
Motorcitymadman I think 100m would be printing high. The reason you zero ACOGs at 100m is because the reticle and BDC are calibrated for 100m (that range essentially being point blank for 5.56mm).
Yes in the Marine Corps we zeroed with iron sights in a similar fashion. ACOGS were before my time. During my time as an active duty Marine we used a 36 yard BZO target then confirmed a correct zero at 300 yards. We wrote our BZO information on the bottom right corner of our data book cover. We removed that portion and put in the butt stock compartment where the cleaning kit goes.
ACOGS were before my time. I wish we would have gotten that tech back in the day. The ACOG is a great piece of kit.
The Army zeros at 25 meters, good for a 300 zero, and qualify at 300 meters. at least they did in 1977.
100 yards is a zero for me. Anyway from 0 yards to 200 yards the greatest drop or rise is 2 and 1/2 in.
Yea the 100 yard zero works the best for me on my AR and my 9mm PCC
It's the flater zero for me.
It’s my go to as well. Thanks for watching!
I concur; I like the 100 yard zero for the same reasons. There is another zero that might be better though; it's the 36 yard zero; check out Vigilance Elite on the 36 yard zero.
That 36 yard zero wasn’t as popular when I did the video but I definitely agree, it’s a solid zero 👍. Thanks for watching!!
agree, 100 yards keeps everything tighter. If its for home defense its the way to go.
100m has consistent holdover and that is what most sights with BDC lines use.
If it is for home defense a 12 gauge works the best daylight or dark 12 gauge will get the job done.
armynurseboy is it safe to say that if you have a 100 yard zero you can hold dead on outside the house and a couple of inches high if you are inside?
200 zero is better than 100 for AR velocities 2900-3200 fps. Zeroing at 100 yards makes all the shot either on the money are all low. Doing so at 200 yards keeps it + or - 2.5" all the way to 250 yards. No hold over needed. Zeroing at 100 yards and you will be 5.5" low at 250 yards.
If you look at the trajectory you can see how zeroing at 200 keeps the +- hi/low tighter than a 100 yard zero.
People zero at 100 because more ranges have a 100 yard target and you can really zero well at 200 due to wind etc. So its best to zero at 100 yards but hit 1 inch high. That is around a 200 yard zero.
A 50 yard zero takes all the wind out of the equation for the most part. That is like a 215 yard zero or like 1.5" high at 100. And you will be =- 2.5" all the way to 250 yards.
50 yard zero hits pretty much dead on at 200 so a 200 yard zero is a 50 yard zero
Exactly so why does the 50 silhouette look different from the 200 silhouette?
most of your targets will be in the 50-100 yard (meter) range. i know i am going to zero at 100 yd , but thanks for the video very informative
No branch of US military use a 100 yard zero.
Good stuff. It’s a superior round because of accuracy
follow the Instructions,zero at25m and your done and good at 300m or with older guns zeroat 25 then adjust rear sight navklimr two clicks don't remember but the 25m to 300m is the standard
Thanks for watching!
Great video
Thank you!
Hard to argue what you're commenting on, since you don't provide a link. Savannah arsenal provides a comprehensive tutorial for achieving mechanical zero using methods taught by the Army, Marine Corps and the current EBFZ / IBFZ zeroing.
Well this said a lot but didn't really give me anything to work with. I hunt in open country where the wind blows. So I'm gonna zero at 250 yards and call it good. The 5.56 is pretty much useless past 300 yards. That's when it's time to bring out the AR-10. Thanks for the vid.
With 300 BLK ammo, the 25 yard zero returns to zero at 150 yards, and is still usable to 200 yards; SuperSonics, subs are in the ground at 200 yards
With what length barrel? It makes a difference.
Zero for 50. That gives you 50/200.. beat zero ever for 556 AR15s. Most likely you should never shoot anything alive over 200 yards. If you are just target shooting at 500 yards on day you just aim up a little. Not hard. Also in this video this guy said he loves irons. I have hit shots with irons and a ar15 at 700 yards but there is no point. If you are using irons you probably can’t really see anything over 100yards. Your irons end up being the size of your target at longer ranges so you just have to guess almost.
I now use optics so I can shoot longer ranges but 50/200 is the best zero and will get the job done well for most people.
Well said. I like the 50 yard more and more.
The chart there would be a cool download to be able to print out.
It was a graphic I found on google 10 years ago. If you google AR15 zero, it will pop up under google images.
what was the barrel length and bullet grain for this scenario ?
96" barrel. 1055 gr bullet.
@@1Deejay7 I'll have what he's having
420" 69gr