What is the maximum temperature that you have made? I ve made the kiln from jm23 bricks with 76mm thick walls and i was must enlarge this to 2 layers on walls to 150mm to achieve 1200 c. What i will change in my next kiln is not to stick the bricks to metal top with glue because the high temperature made the top of the kiln like bowed mountain witch crasches in time the bricks. I think making the top of the kiln must be bymaking the steel band with screws to "hug" the bricks in together.
I have barely been able to melt copper in it's current configuration, which took more than three hours. So around 1100°C is the max temperature at 4.8kW with the current insulation. This also caused the outside of the kiln to reach 100°C at least and damaged the SSR and PID controller - I have since added active fan cooling to the control box on the side of the kiln. Reaching higher temperature would require thicker insulation or increasing the power level of the heating elements. I would consider thicker Kanthal wire drawing more current.
@@andrzejkrogulski8690 Hello. What do you mean when you say that the weather is ok? I would like to know if that is the same problem with my kiln. Thanks.
Sorry, but there is a problem with this type of lid design. When open the hot underside of the lid is facing anyone trying to access the inside of the furnace. At higher temperatures in particular this will make life difficult. This is why my furnace lid lifts slightly and then swings to one side, the hot underside is thus only pointing harmlessly downward and not towards me. This is just as easy to build as your set up here.... Martin PS. What holds your elements in? My attempts at an electrical furnace (3 phase 25 amp variac controlled) had elements just sitting in simple grooves and on cooling down the contraction of the elements slowly (over a few uses) pulled the elements out of the grooves.
Hi Jakob, what an amazing project! You inspired me to try and make one myself now. Do you have drawings/instructions that you could share? Keep up the good work
In fact, you could use only silicate to insulate the cover instead of bricks. This part is not exposed to damage and requires the best thermal insulation.
do you say that would be enough to isolate? I'm also designing a front-opening oven following these instructions, but I'm having trouble finding refractory tiles of the 26T or JM26 composition.
Thanks I am slowly getting back at it and have started the editing of part 4 this morning. It will be about all the wiring and PID controller - skipping a bit over how to make the sheet metal control box.
Hi Tracy, thanks for your kind comment! I have been working on one of my other projects (The element cubes) lately and at the same time had to take a break dure to personal/health issues. The iron cube video will be released in a day or two, and then I will start editing part 4 of the electric kiln series, which will describe the electronics/wiring. Best wishes J
@@HarveyA Thanks for your kind comment! I am soon back to editing part 4 - have had to take a break to take care of my self. I will see if I can find a way to share the drawings in an easy to access way, otherwise you welcome to send me an e-mail: RUclips[at]halskov dåt com
@@jakobhalskov The wire can withstand maximum heating for how long, or what is the lifetime cycle of the wire? And what material the wire is made from?
It looks like you have done your research and are doing a very good job. But, I can't help but ask "why did you make such a small kiln?". Were you restricted by your electrical service capacity?
For now this was what seamed reasonable and limited by my current capabilities in my workshop. I can push it a bit more in the future if I needed faster heating or a higher max-temperature :)
I cannot wait until the next part. Amazing series.
Thanks for the kind comment Crystle! :)
I also can’t wait! in the mix of building one myself! awesome idea to use a drum! I am a glass blower out of michigan
Another great episode, and again I look forward to the next!
Thanks Arrisar :) !
This guy is really smart and good with his electrical. Awesome video! Thanks!
Thanks for sharing. Cleared my doubts about the hinge.
Happy to hear that Roberto! :)
Sweet man, I'll wait for the next one... I just started ceramics and this is the best video of building the kiln, THX =)
What is the maximum temperature that you have made? I ve made the kiln from jm23 bricks with 76mm thick walls and i was must enlarge this to 2 layers on walls to 150mm to achieve 1200 c. What i will change in my next kiln is not to stick the bricks to metal top with glue because the high temperature made the top of the kiln like bowed mountain witch crasches in time the bricks. I think making the top of the kiln must be bymaking the steel band with screws to "hug" the bricks in together.
And even in windy weather on my balcony the maximum temp is 1100c, the 1200 c is only when the weather is ok...
I have barely been able to melt copper in it's current configuration, which took more than three hours. So around 1100°C is the max temperature at 4.8kW with the current insulation. This also caused the outside of the kiln to reach 100°C at least and damaged the SSR and PID controller - I have since added active fan cooling to the control box on the side of the kiln.
Reaching higher temperature would require thicker insulation or increasing the power level of the heating elements. I would consider thicker Kanthal wire drawing more current.
@@andrzejkrogulski8690 Hello. What do you mean when you say that the weather is ok? I would like to know if that is the same problem with my kiln. Thanks.
Amazing video, we gonna make one in France, merci beaucoup :)
Thanks for the interesting video. I am already looking forward to the 4th part :)
This is such a great vid, I witnessed here, hope you'll be able to do more content, soon :) Wish you the best
This is a great guide! Looking forward to part 4
Thanks! I needed a break from everything to take care of my self, but I am soon ready with part 4, showing the electrical wiring :)
Hola! Me encanto los videos. Cuando subes la parte 4 del cableado electrico?? Gracias
Great series, I'm at this part of my kiln restoration, looking forward to seeing what you do with the wiring!
Would you have the plans for this project , please?
Very nice detail with that spring. But will the lid still close and seal properly with that big spring pulling and trying to open the lid?
Very amazing,how can i reach you pls
Also I want to add he engineered this kiln very well.
Sorry, but there is a problem with this type of lid design. When open the hot underside of the lid is facing anyone trying to access the inside of the furnace. At higher temperatures in particular this will make life difficult. This is why my furnace lid lifts slightly and then swings to one side, the hot underside is thus only pointing harmlessly downward and not towards me. This is just as easy to build as your set up here.... Martin
PS. What holds your elements in? My attempts at an electrical furnace (3 phase 25 amp variac controlled) had elements just sitting in simple grooves and on cooling down the contraction of the elements slowly (over a few uses) pulled the elements out of the grooves.
Hi Jakob, what an amazing project! You inspired me to try and make one myself now. Do you have drawings/instructions that you could share? Keep up the good work
Hi, brilliant work. Cant wait for the part 4. When it will be published?
Thanks! very detailed and inspiring.
Thanks Nacho!
so whats the possible max target temp with this?
In fact, you could use only silicate to insulate the cover instead of bricks. This part is not exposed to damage and requires the best thermal insulation.
do you say that would be enough to isolate?
I'm also designing a front-opening oven following these instructions, but I'm having trouble finding refractory tiles of the 26T or JM26 composition.
Dear sir
Would you please send me a file with measurements of hinge between bottom and top of the kiln
Hi! thanks for sharing! what program do you use to design?
I hope you're good.While waiting for the new video, I haven't been able to sleep for months.😄
Thanks I am slowly getting back at it and have started the editing of part 4 this morning. It will be about all the wiring and PID controller - skipping a bit over how to make the sheet metal control box.
Keep up the great work. This guide is awesome!
I need one. How you can help me
Quantos graus chega amigo
This is an amazing series, thank you so much! When will part 4 be available?
Hi Tracy, thanks for your kind comment! I have been working on one of my other projects (The element cubes) lately and at the same time had to take a break dure to personal/health issues. The iron cube video will be released in a day or two, and then I will start editing part 4 of the electric kiln series, which will describe the electronics/wiring.
Best wishes
J
@@jakobhalskov looking forward to part4 . Absolutely fantastic video series. Thank you so much. Will you be listing all parts and drawings too?
@@HarveyA Thanks for your kind comment! I am soon back to editing part 4 - have had to take a break to take care of my self. I will see if I can find a way to share the drawings in an easy to access way, otherwise you welcome to send me an e-mail: RUclips[at]halskov dåt com
I just subscribed! Really looking forward to seeing part 4!
Out of curiosity, what was the cost of building your own compared to buying a similar spec kiln?
I don't have the exact numbers for all the materials, but around 2-4 times cheaper compared to buying a commercial one.
@@jakobhalskov Plus, you have total control for upgrading or repair in case of any changes or breakdown occur.
Part 4 please
Thanks! I needed a break from everything to take care of my self, but I am soon ready with part 4, showing the electrical wiring :)
Does the metal enclosure get warm to the touch?
It reaches around 50-150°C depending on the duration it is turned on and how hot it is being heated to.
@@jakobhalskov The wire can withstand maximum heating for how long, or what is the lifetime cycle of the wire? And what material the wire is made from?
@@saidmeku707 the wire is made of Kanthal, which comes in different grades withstanding 1300 to 1400°C :)
@@jakobhalskov Thanks for the feedback bro, appreciated.
It looks like you have done your research and are doing a very good job. But, I can't help but ask "why did you make such a small kiln?". Were you restricted by your electrical service capacity?
For now this was what seamed reasonable and limited by my current capabilities in my workshop. I can push it a bit more in the future if I needed faster heating or a higher max-temperature :)
Why paint the steel elements in black?
Just for rust protection and aesthetics :)
@@jakobhalskov Thank you :)
Great.