My budget setup: Cheap China diamond plate 400/1000 $20 This does the rough heavy work (often not needed unless edge is in bad shape) Shapton Kuromaku Orange 600 grit stone $50 A good "do it all" stone that will make a fairly good final edge with light pressure. Good 1st step (and possibly final) if edge isn't in too bad of shape to start with. Lansky turnbox. $30 I use this for burr removal and very light touch ups. Grey "medium" rods and white "fine" rods. Leather strop on block of wood with 5 micron diamond paste. $20 For that final tiny burr removal and mirror polish, if desired. I make my own knives from Magnacut and CPM 10V. I can easily take a 10V knife at 64-65 rockwell that's quite dull to easy shave (no real pressure needed to shave) in about 5 minutes total... if going fairly fast. 7 or 8 minutes if taking my time. Softer lower carbide knives, like a typical S30V or 440C, can be done from very dull to shaving in about 2-3 minutes.
Great guide! I use a DMT Dia-Sharp Extra Course stone for repairing damaged blades and reprofiling the edge of a knife. The rest of my stones for sharpening are the Shapton Kuromaku in 1000, 2000, and 5000 grits. I use the Atoma 400 grit diamond plate for flattening my Shapton stones, and I use the suede side leather of a strop plus DMT Dia-Paste diamond compound in 6 micron to remove the remaining burr after using my sharpening stones. The stone holder is a game-changer for holding all of my stones! While I will still use my Shapton Kuromaku stones for sharpening kitchen knives, I'm very interested in buying a fine grit Arkansas stone for finishing the edge on pocket knives after using my DMT to repair and reprofile the edges. Can't wait to buy more sharpening supplies to experiment with!
Sounds like an awesome set up. I don't use Arkansas stones very often, but every time I play with one I enjoy the experience. For anyone reading @KristinaCMigo comment, it's a great example of mixing a matching stone types to get the most out of their strengths.
Thanks, very helpful - lots of info. I use a combination of sandpaper (progressive grits) on a flattened wood surface, and, diamond stones to restore the edge. I'm curious about water stones but have been a little tentative because of the price. Anyway, great resource, thanks!
My first bit of gear was the dmt plates and spyderco ceramic stones. Now I have stones for different knives and purposes but for pocket knives I use atoma now
I use coarse diamond stones for everything up to 1200 grit. Then back off to a 1000 grit stone (unless its a super steel) appropriate for the steel type and go from there. only brand i feel like mentioning is Shapton and their kuromaki stones, they are pretty cheap work extremely well. With all other brands ive tried i feel price and quality matches though leaning towards higher price points. As for stropping compounds i only use stroppy stuff.
Different manufacturers use different grit ratings. Some use mesh, some use micron, those that use grit are either using the ANSI, JIS, or FEPA systems, which don't all line up. It's a bit confusing. At least with micron and mesh you can safely compare those across brands. With grit you need to know which system the manufacturer is using. It's a mess.
My first set up was soft, hard and black arkansas stones. I thought it was totally normal to take half an hour to get a knife sharp lol Today I use 320 and 1200 grit diamond plates followed by a 3000 grit shapton glass ceramic stone
The aim of the video was to help people find the best stones that meet their specific needs. What's best for you might not be best for someone else. If I was forced to give an answer, I'd probably recommend diamond plates. They're super low maintenance and will sharpen any steel, but they can be expensive and the range of grits is limited.
@@robertmunguia250 Diamond resin are probably my favorite bench stone option at the moment. My only hesitation for not giving them the beginner top spot would be price and they require a tiny bit more maintenance than diamond plates. If they fit your budget, they're a fantastic option.
@@robertmunguia250 The Naniwa Diamond Pro comes with a dressing stone. They stay flat for a long time, but if you want to flatten them, Diamond Lapping Plates will work.
My budget setup:
Cheap China diamond plate 400/1000 $20 This does the rough heavy work (often not needed unless edge is in bad shape)
Shapton Kuromaku Orange 600 grit stone $50 A good "do it all" stone that will make a fairly good final edge with light pressure. Good 1st step (and possibly final) if edge isn't in too bad of shape to start with.
Lansky turnbox. $30 I use this for burr removal and very light touch ups. Grey "medium" rods and white "fine" rods.
Leather strop on block of wood with 5 micron diamond paste. $20 For that final tiny burr removal and mirror polish, if desired.
I make my own knives from Magnacut and CPM 10V. I can easily take a 10V knife at 64-65 rockwell that's quite dull to easy shave (no real pressure needed to shave) in about 5 minutes total... if going fairly fast. 7 or 8 minutes if taking my time. Softer lower carbide knives, like a typical S30V or 440C, can be done from very dull to shaving in about 2-3 minutes.
Great!!!! Now I want to buy more stones. Wish I had known these things when I first started knife sharpening. Anyhow, thanks this is good info.
Happy to help! Sorry (but not really) about making you want to buy more stones.
Love your Buck. I've had my 110 since 2008. Ought to send it for a spa treatment and make the brass shine sometime.
They're solid knives!
Great guide! I use a DMT Dia-Sharp Extra Course stone for repairing damaged blades and reprofiling the edge of a knife. The rest of my stones for sharpening are the Shapton Kuromaku in 1000, 2000, and 5000 grits. I use the Atoma 400 grit diamond plate for flattening my Shapton stones, and I use the suede side leather of a strop plus DMT Dia-Paste diamond compound in 6 micron to remove the remaining burr after using my sharpening stones. The stone holder is a game-changer for holding all of my stones! While I will still use my Shapton Kuromaku stones for sharpening kitchen knives, I'm very interested in buying a fine grit Arkansas stone for finishing the edge on pocket knives after using my DMT to repair and reprofile the edges. Can't wait to buy more sharpening supplies to experiment with!
Sounds like an awesome set up. I don't use Arkansas stones very often, but every time I play with one I enjoy the experience. For anyone reading @KristinaCMigo comment, it's a great example of mixing a matching stone types to get the most out of their strengths.
how long does 400 grit diamond plate take to flatten the shapton stones?
Thanks, very helpful - lots of info. I use a combination of sandpaper (progressive grits) on a flattened wood surface, and, diamond stones to restore the edge. I'm curious about water stones but have been a little tentative because of the price. Anyway, great resource, thanks!
My first bit of gear was the dmt plates and spyderco ceramic stones. Now I have stones for different knives and purposes but for pocket knives I use atoma now
I use coarse diamond stones for everything up to 1200 grit. Then back off to a 1000 grit stone (unless its a super steel) appropriate for the steel type and go from there.
only brand i feel like mentioning is Shapton and their kuromaki stones, they are pretty cheap work extremely well.
With all other brands ive tried i feel price and quality matches though leaning towards higher price points.
As for stropping compounds i only use stroppy stuff.
I keep hearing good things about Stroppy Stuff, we'll have to check it out.
Hello.Which stones from these manufacturers would you recommend that can be purchased from us? King,Naniwa super stone,Taidea,Langsy,Sharpi,KAI ?
What is the grit rating style or whatever? Is it mesh usually?
Different manufacturers use different grit ratings. Some use mesh, some use micron, those that use grit are either using the ANSI, JIS, or FEPA systems, which don't all line up. It's a bit confusing. At least with micron and mesh you can safely compare those across brands. With grit you need to know which system the manufacturer is using. It's a mess.
my beginner kit was a soft and hard Arkansas stone
I’m 23 this year when I was 10 my pop gave me a old Arkansas stone. And I still use oil and Arkansas stones now. I think I’m scared of change hahaha
Hey, if it works, it works! Plus I wouldn't discount the value of sticking with a stone handed down to you from your pop. That's pretty cool.
My first set up was soft, hard and black arkansas stones. I thought it was totally normal to take half an hour to get a knife sharp lol
Today I use 320 and 1200 grit diamond plates followed by a 3000 grit shapton glass ceramic stone
So what exactly are the best stones in general to have?
The aim of the video was to help people find the best stones that meet their specific needs. What's best for you might not be best for someone else. If I was forced to give an answer, I'd probably recommend diamond plates. They're super low maintenance and will sharpen any steel, but they can be expensive and the range of grits is limited.
@@SharpeningSupplies how about the resin stones? They’re expensive but do you recommend those for long use? To learn for beginners?
@@robertmunguia250 Diamond resin are probably my favorite bench stone option at the moment. My only hesitation for not giving them the beginner top spot would be price and they require a tiny bit more maintenance than diamond plates. If they fit your budget, they're a fantastic option.
@@SharpeningSupplies ok how would I clean those? Maintain?
@@robertmunguia250 The Naniwa Diamond Pro comes with a dressing stone. They stay flat for a long time, but if you want to flatten them, Diamond Lapping Plates will work.
From your accent I thought you would be in the UK. I follow the link and the prices are in $?
Hey ho
The accent is from the UK, the rest of me lives here in Wisconsin, USA.
@ That’s a shame. I’m looking for somewhere to get a set of stones for and friend.
Dry and clean your stones. Especially chooseras
Good tip!