Hey thanks for sharing. I just wanted to add a little to your video for those who attempt this job. For the output shaft seal, the seal cant be flush with the housing. It actually has to be push a bit beyond the housing so that the flange doesn't rub against it. I made the same mistake when i did mine. I had pushed my seal about 4mm past the housing.
Brother thank you, I just did mine and pushed it in quite a bit and then when I watched this video I ordered another one to redo it so I can “keep it flush” and now thanks to you I know I did it right. God bless!
When installing the output flange on a ZF320Z- 1. you do not show or indicate that torqueing of the 36mm nut is done in two steps with different torque values- 170 NM first, then loosen, and tighten to a final value of 130 NM per BMW documentation. My Bentley manual shows the torque values for the Getrag 250G transmission, not the ZF, though the values are quite close for both transmissions. 2. You do not show or indicate that the output flange securing nut is to use Loctite 232 (medium strength blue) on the treads of the nut, as well as the face that rests against the flange in order to secure the nut. Though the nut used appears designed to be staked into a groove or the like in order to secure, there is no where to do so on the output shaft or flange. The Loctite is required per BMW documentation. Just sayin........thanks for the help!
Also when i removed mine i found from the factory there was thread sealant on the shaft as well (covering the splines). In the servie manual also says to cover the threads of the bolt with thread sealant to prevent oil leaking, actual practice (from factory) is to cover the splines as well. 🤟
A seal puller was one of the best tools I have bought to save time. Works like a charm, less chance of scoring a bore too. I too have found the brass punch is the best way to start seals.
Great video, I looked for something like this for the longest time and just happened to get this in my recommended tab. Thank you, very informative and the on screen text made me laugh
Great video. Thanks. Question for you. My 5 speed is leaking from side port next to the 5th and reverse detent pin locations. Since I replaced the detents already, what is the third one right next to it? It looks just like the 5th and reverse
thanks for the video, how easy is it to shift into reverse and 5th gear when the transmission is out of the vehicle? I'm thinking of picking up a used zf 5 speed for a future project.
Do u know if the pivot fork is the same from zf to getrag? I had to put a getrag in my 328 till I could find a zf. Only been in 5 months so I'm gonna try and reuse as much as I can
Sorry if this isnt much help but there's a document online that explains how to open the transmission case. But after removing a few neccessary bolts around the housing(which is explained in the manual) you have to remove the input shaft seal followed by a disc clip. Then all thats left is to press the shaft out of the bearing. You would have to craft up a fixture since there doesnt seem to be a tool out there for sale.
@@RaceGerman any guess as to how that would act? I have one that I think might be that bearing. It is fine when the vehicle is cold but when the car warms up there is a rattling sound when the transmission is in neutral and the clutch is not pushed in. My first thought was that it is the throw out bearing but that should make noise whether it is cold out hot. Also, great videos you make.
when in neutral i hear a slight rattling sound in the transmission but when i push in the clutch it stops. what would that be?? THANK YOU just bought a e36 328
the TOB fork may have a larger dimple on the slave side, esp. if you are reusing old one. check to see if tighter fit at pivot on one end or the other. consider using aftermarket brass pivot pin grease the TOB tube (that covers the front seal)
Thanks for the comment. We do not recommend using the brass pivot pin as it is softer than steel and will wear out faster. We do sell the stainless steel one or just using the OEM plastic and treating it as a wear item works too. All depends on how you are using your car.
Because I don't want to be responsible for that. I'm just showing the process. You should always look up the torques yourself and never go off of memory.
Hey thanks for sharing.
I just wanted to add a little to your video for those who attempt this job.
For the output shaft seal, the seal cant be flush with the housing. It actually has to be push a bit beyond the housing so that the flange doesn't rub against it. I made the same mistake when i did mine. I had pushed my seal about 4mm past the housing.
Brother thank you, I just did mine and pushed it in quite a bit and then when I watched this video I ordered another one to redo it so I can “keep it flush” and now thanks to you I know I did it right. God bless!
When installing the output flange on a ZF320Z- 1. you do not show or indicate that torqueing of the 36mm nut is done in two steps with different torque values- 170 NM first, then loosen, and tighten to a final value of 130 NM per BMW documentation. My Bentley manual shows the torque values for the Getrag 250G transmission, not the ZF, though the values are quite close for both transmissions. 2. You do not show or indicate that the output flange securing nut is to use Loctite 232 (medium strength blue) on the treads of the nut, as well as the face that rests against the flange in order to secure the nut. Though the nut used appears designed to be staked into a groove or the like in order to secure, there is no where to do so on the output shaft or flange. The Loctite is required per BMW documentation. Just sayin........thanks for the help!
Also when i removed mine i found from the factory there was thread sealant on the shaft as well (covering the splines). In the servie manual also says to cover the threads of the bolt with thread sealant to prevent oil leaking, actual practice (from factory) is to cover the splines as well. 🤟
A seal puller was one of the best tools I have bought to save time. Works like a charm, less chance of scoring a bore too. I too have found the brass punch is the best way to start seals.
Can’t wait for the detent video!
This video is the best thing ive seen since i was born. Thx
Great info, much appreciated! Gonna be doing mine soon
Excellent, very helpful, I'm gonna be doing my own. thank you.
Great video, I looked for something like this for the longest time and just happened to get this in my recommended tab. Thank you, very informative and the on screen text made me laugh
Super helpfulness. Thank you
Fantastic video, very informative 👍
Thanks!
Fantastic video.....well done
Great video. Subbed 👍🏽
Awesome video!
badass video
Good job!!
I have a ZF with a grinding noise at the output flange. Yikes 😳
Great video bro!
Thanks!
@@RaceGerman can I send it to you for some professional care? :D
Lisle 58430 is the tool to use for those input/output shaft seals. Not sure what I'd use for the shift shaft.
Great video. Thanks. Question for you. My 5 speed is leaking from side port next to the 5th and reverse detent pin locations. Since I replaced the detents already, what is the third one right next to it? It looks just like the 5th and reverse
Should be 5, 3 on top and 2 on the side.
thanks for the video, how easy is it to shift into reverse and 5th gear when the transmission is out of the vehicle? I'm thinking of picking up a used zf 5 speed for a future project.
Should be easy
Do u know if the pivot fork is the same from zf to getrag? I had to put a getrag in my 328 till I could find a zf. Only been in 5 months so I'm gonna try and reuse as much as I can
Did you end up figuring out if they are the same part?
Would you have a step by step DIY on separating the case? Or a source I can refer to?
Sorry I do not. Never done that job. Might be one on RUclips already. Good luck!
Sorry if this isnt much help but there's a document online that explains how to open the transmission case. But after removing a few neccessary bolts around the housing(which is explained in the manual) you have to remove the input shaft seal followed by a disc clip. Then all thats left is to press the shaft out of the bearing. You would have to craft up a fixture since there doesnt seem to be a tool out there for sale.
Have you ever had one of these transmissions have a bad input shaft bearing (the bearing under the seal that you were careful not to damage)?
I have not yet, but I am sure it can happen. These transmission are getting up there with miles
@@RaceGerman any guess as to how that would act? I have one that I think might be that bearing. It is fine when the vehicle is cold but when the car warms up there is a rattling sound when the transmission is in neutral and the clutch is not pushed in. My first thought was that it is the throw out bearing but that should make noise whether it is cold out hot. Also, great videos you make.
when in neutral i hear a slight rattling sound in the transmission but when i push in the clutch it stops. what would that be?? THANK YOU just bought a e36 328
Not the transmission that's your throw out bearing 100%
@@RaceGerman are u sure that it wouldn't be the input shaft bearing?
the TOB fork may have a larger dimple on the slave side, esp. if you are reusing old one.
check to see if tighter fit at pivot on one end or the other.
consider using aftermarket brass pivot pin
grease the TOB tube (that covers the front seal)
Thanks for the comment. We do not recommend using the brass pivot pin as it is softer than steel and will wear out faster. We do sell the stainless steel one or just using the OEM plastic and treating it as a wear item works too. All depends on how you are using your car.
I did this and mangled the casing and damaged the bearing on the output shaft. BE CAREFUL
What oil do u put in?
We use redline ATF. You can find a transmission service kit on our website! Racegerman.com
My Bentley Manual😆
Hellyea
You say "torque to spec" several times throughout. What is the spec?
You can find torque specs in the Bentley manual
@@RaceGerman Why not just inclure what those are? Bit weird making a tutorial video just to "refer to manual" for the most crucial aspects
Because I don't want to be responsible for that. I'm just showing the process. You should always look up the torques yourself and never go off of memory.