Totally agree. I think it's because Steve isn't a salesman. He just gives you his knowledge straight up, I love it and really appreciate his videos. However, most people these days want constant entertainment
AOP also consumes free chlorine as part of how the peripheral systems function. So there is some chlorine which is used just to feed the machine, so to speak, but the net total is less chlorine use once the UV, AOP, ozone are installed, even accounting for the amount lost to these devices. I understand that a net total of 40% less chlorine needed once all other factors are included. This is a very generalized number, but to give a starting point for comparison research. Of specific note is that UV before a heater, for example, will destruct the combined chlorine and will provide a "cleaner" water for your heater to heat which results in less potential for damage. AKA a UV light can also help your heater to last longer, then AFTER the heater you inject chlorine again (salt cell. erosion feeder etc) which diffuses back into the main volume of the pool. The UV light (and the heater) are exposed to the least concentrated chlorinated water in the pool. Great question. Cheers.
Great video, I just had a 24 round above ground pool installed with an oxygen pool system. Main drain and skimmer create very good circulation but in order to create bubbles per instruction you have to cut back on valve going to return jet(connected to oxygen system) which drastically reduces the pressure coming out of return jet and raise the pressure on my cartridge filter. Im ready to take out system and put in a chlorinator. Any thoughts? Thanks
Very good intelligent discussion! Regarding ozone I was under the impression the work of destroying bad cells is only done in the ozone chamber which definitely lends itself to your point of what protects between you and I. Also another form of oxidation would be necessary for the enzyme types of particles. I totally believe in chlorine but less would be nice. I can see how a couple different sanitation oxidation plans are effective.
bromine is better for spas or indoor pools without any sun exposure. It is not possible to stabilize bromine against being degraded by the sun / UV like you can with chlorine and cyanuric acid. So it is either too costly or too impractical for most outdoor pools. There are some, but you are probably triple the cost for sanitizer of a comparable chlorine pool. There is not a lot in the way of advantages.
@@Swimmingpoolsteve Thank you! I’ve really enjoyed your videos. I bought 50lbs of bromine last year for ~$230 for my brominator that’s attached to the pump (with valves so I can shut it off). This year it was $350 at the start of the season, and they said it’s $450 now. Yikes! It’s $500 online last I checked. I believe I need to use 2 50lbs buckets per year. The pool does get lots of sun. Maybe when I drain it and fix the painted surface, I should switch to Chlorine.
This year I used Liquid Bleach instead of the powered Shock. Strange that shock was not available at the stores but bleach was available. The same manufacturer makes both. The Chlorine in the bleach worked great !!!.
There was a shortage of trichlor due to a chemical fire at a major manufacturer in 2019. There is no shortage of liquid chlorine though some areas have dealt with shipping and trucking delays which resulted in some chlorine shortages. Bleach is fine. It's just weak liquid chlorine. And no matter what form of chlorine you use they all turn into hypochlorus acid when they contact the water.
Hi Steve, another great video. I see you made a video with pool plumbing but you don't mention anything about black poly, my pool builder will only use the black poly which is strange to me and I don't see much info on it, is it a reliable way to do the plumbing? The pool builder says he glues and clamps, it's just got me nervous :/ thank you sir.
Poly pipe is outdated and most builders have moved to rigid PVC. but I have met old school builders who still use poly because they have been using it for 50 years and do not want to change. It can actually be a good option, especially in cold climate areas where rigid PVC is less of a clear cut winner as it does not handle shatter resistance well especially in the cold. It does not absorb ground movement either. So by and large these areas are all flex PVC...but is that actually better than poly? I think many would say no. Flex is not actually pipe, it is technically hose and has low maximum operating pressures and relatively low resistance to crushing. Poly pipe can have leaky clamps and they will degrade if not high quality stainless steel. But assuming you used good clamps, and two on each barbed connection, plus use a pipe tar/dope to facilitate a stronger leak free connection, plus you heat the poly when you make each barbed connection, and you use a ratchet not a standard screwdriver to tighten the clamps, and you work with the memory in the poly pipe as opposed to against it, and you avoid nylon fittings, and you use red stripe or green stripe poly intended for pressure applications and not white stripe poly intended for drainage applications....well, THEN poly would actually outperform and outlast the flex PVC. If your builder is using pressure rated poly and knows what they are doing with it then it is a viable option. Not sure it would be my first choice, but your builder has some merit in going this direction. But I have never seen anything larger than 2" pipe used for poly. Modern pools often benefit from 2.5" or larger. If your pool needs only 2" or smaller then it is viable. Sorry for the long reply. There is a lot to consider here. Cheers.
Awesome that's for the reply. I feel a little better about it now. I asked to have 2.5" installed but they don't install 2.5", now it makes sense why they don't because they only use black poly. I was going to have the run a dedicated line back to the pump for each skimmer (3) and the main drain, so 4 - 2" lines suction lines, is that ok? And how should I have them do the return lines 2 - 2" with 1" eyeballs? Thank you Steve!
So when you use the uv lights with a trichlor pool have you had issues with the uv light eating up the chlorine really fast? which cause high stabilizer levels
My understanding is yes, some chlorine is consumed, but the net total is less chlorine use needed in the pool by more than 50%. I wonder if there is anything else affecting your chlorine use. Have you measured phosphate levels recently? High phosphates , even moderately, can significantly increase the chlorine you go through to hold your chlorine residual in the pool.
Hi Steve, great video. We are in the process of building our pool and decided to go with an AOP system (Clear Comfort) vice a salt system or traditional chlorine (tabs/liquid) as an alternative. I know we still need a residual level of chlorine along with the AOP system. What would you suggest to be the best option for residual chlorine, to pair with our AOP system? We have considered inline (and offline) chlorinators. If we go with an inline (or offline) chlorinator, where in the plumbing would you place it: before or after the heater? Thank you
Yes, we did. The Clear Comfort system has been awesome. We paired it with a PoolRx (for algaecide) and we have crystal clear water with very little maintenance. We couldn't be happier.
Even if you have the full complement of UV, ozone, enzyme additive, phosphate remover and borates you’re still going to need a small residual of chlorine. Better of understanding and embracing proper chlorine and cya chemistry than trying to eliminate this proven effective method. Work smarter instead of harder
I still don’t understand how you only have 29k subs. Love your videos.
Totally agree. I think it's because Steve isn't a salesman. He just gives you his knowledge straight up, I love it and really appreciate his videos. However, most people these days want constant entertainment
Great video thanks for sharing. One question....It's my understanding that UV kills chlorine. Why is this not a concern when using a UV system?
AOP also consumes free chlorine as part of how the peripheral systems function. So there is some chlorine which is used just to feed the machine, so to speak, but the net total is less chlorine use once the UV, AOP, ozone are installed, even accounting for the amount lost to these devices. I understand that a net total of 40% less chlorine needed once all other factors are included. This is a very generalized number, but to give a starting point for comparison research. Of specific note is that UV before a heater, for example, will destruct the combined chlorine and will provide a "cleaner" water for your heater to heat which results in less potential for damage. AKA a UV light can also help your heater to last longer, then AFTER the heater you inject chlorine again (salt cell. erosion feeder etc) which diffuses back into the main volume of the pool. The UV light (and the heater) are exposed to the least concentrated chlorinated water in the pool. Great question. Cheers.
Can you use colloidal silver
Great video, I just had a 24 round above ground pool installed with an oxygen pool system. Main drain and skimmer create very good circulation but in order to create bubbles per instruction you have to cut back on valve going to return jet(connected to oxygen system) which drastically reduces the pressure coming out of return jet and raise the pressure on my cartridge filter. Im ready to take out system and put in a chlorinator. Any thoughts? Thanks
Very good intelligent discussion!
Regarding ozone I was under the impression the work of destroying bad cells is only done in the ozone chamber which definitely lends itself to your point of what protects between you and I. Also another form of oxidation would be necessary for the enzyme types of particles. I totally believe in chlorine but less would be nice. I can see how a couple different sanitation oxidation plans are effective.
Bromine? My pool is a bromine pool, and I’m not seeing much info on your channel about Bromine pools.
What do you think about Bromine Bro?
bromine is better for spas or indoor pools without any sun exposure. It is not possible to stabilize bromine against being degraded by the sun / UV like you can with chlorine and cyanuric acid. So it is either too costly or too impractical for most outdoor pools. There are some, but you are probably triple the cost for sanitizer of a comparable chlorine pool. There is not a lot in the way of advantages.
@@Swimmingpoolsteve Thank you! I’ve really enjoyed your videos. I bought 50lbs of bromine last year for ~$230 for my brominator that’s attached to the pump (with valves so I can shut it off). This year it was $350 at the start of the season, and they said it’s $450 now. Yikes! It’s $500 online last I checked. I believe I need to use 2 50lbs buckets per year. The pool does get lots of sun. Maybe when I drain it and fix the painted surface, I should switch to Chlorine.
This year I used Liquid Bleach instead of the powered Shock. Strange that shock was not available at the stores but bleach was available. The same manufacturer makes both. The Chlorine in the bleach worked great !!!.
There was a shortage of trichlor due to a chemical fire at a major manufacturer in 2019. There is no shortage of liquid chlorine though some areas have dealt with shipping and trucking delays which resulted in some chlorine shortages. Bleach is fine. It's just weak liquid chlorine. And no matter what form of chlorine you use they all turn into hypochlorus acid when they contact the water.
Hi Steve, another great video. I see you made a video with pool plumbing but you don't mention anything about black poly, my pool builder will only use the black poly which is strange to me and I don't see much info on it, is it a reliable way to do the plumbing? The pool builder says he glues and clamps, it's just got me nervous :/ thank you sir.
Poly pipe is outdated and most builders have moved to rigid PVC. but I have met old school builders who still use poly because they have been using it for 50 years and do not want to change. It can actually be a good option, especially in cold climate areas where rigid PVC is less of a clear cut winner as it does not handle shatter resistance well especially in the cold. It does not absorb ground movement either. So by and large these areas are all flex PVC...but is that actually better than poly? I think many would say no. Flex is not actually pipe, it is technically hose and has low maximum operating pressures and relatively low resistance to crushing. Poly pipe can have leaky clamps and they will degrade if not high quality stainless steel. But assuming you used good clamps, and two on each barbed connection, plus use a pipe tar/dope to facilitate a stronger leak free connection, plus you heat the poly when you make each barbed connection, and you use a ratchet not a standard screwdriver to tighten the clamps, and you work with the memory in the poly pipe as opposed to against it, and you avoid nylon fittings, and you use red stripe or green stripe poly intended for pressure applications and not white stripe poly intended for drainage applications....well, THEN poly would actually outperform and outlast the flex PVC. If your builder is using pressure rated poly and knows what they are doing with it then it is a viable option. Not sure it would be my first choice, but your builder has some merit in going this direction. But I have never seen anything larger than 2" pipe used for poly. Modern pools often benefit from 2.5" or larger. If your pool needs only 2" or smaller then it is viable. Sorry for the long reply. There is a lot to consider here. Cheers.
Awesome that's for the reply. I feel a little better about it now. I asked to have 2.5" installed but they don't install 2.5", now it makes sense why they don't because they only use black poly. I was going to have the run a dedicated line back to the pump for each skimmer (3) and the main drain, so 4 - 2" lines suction lines, is that ok? And how should I have them do the return lines 2 - 2" with 1" eyeballs? Thank you Steve!
Doesnt UV break down the chlorine too? Ozone?
Thinking a bit...
What if we install the UV lighting in / underwater in the pool itself, as we have other underwater lighting? 🤔
UVC is harmful to people which is why its in a chamber you cannot see.
So when you use the uv lights with a trichlor pool have you had issues with the uv light eating up the chlorine really fast? which cause high stabilizer levels
My understanding is yes, some chlorine is consumed, but the net total is less chlorine use needed in the pool by more than 50%. I wonder if there is anything else affecting your chlorine use. Have you measured phosphate levels recently? High phosphates , even moderately, can significantly increase the chlorine you go through to hold your chlorine residual in the pool.
Hi Steve, great video. We are in the process of building our pool and decided to go with an AOP system (Clear Comfort) vice a salt system or traditional chlorine (tabs/liquid) as an alternative. I know we still need a residual level of chlorine along with the AOP system. What would you suggest to be the best option for residual chlorine, to pair with our AOP system? We have considered inline (and offline) chlorinators. If we go with an inline (or offline) chlorinator, where in the plumbing would you place it: before or after the heater? Thank you
Did you end up getting a clear comfort? I'd love to hear how it's working out for you...
Yes, we did. The Clear Comfort system has been awesome. We paired it with a PoolRx (for algaecide) and we have crystal clear water with very little maintenance. We couldn't be happier.
can you mix chorine with these other alternatives?
But if the entire pool water circulates every 4 hours isn't that enough for ozone and/or UV?
Ty Steve
The cheapest one is 50 ppm boric acid.
Even if you have the full complement of UV, ozone, enzyme additive, phosphate remover and borates you’re still going to need a small residual of chlorine. Better of understanding and embracing proper chlorine and cya chemistry than trying to eliminate this proven effective method. Work smarter instead of harder