Very clear handwriting :) Yes 100 watt panel with ~100 Ah Battery should do it, also worth getting a USB Battery Bank to mop up any spare power during the day.
Great methodology for determining battery requirements. My only suggestions would be to try and not go as low as 50% state of charge if possible. So the more battery you have, the better. A larger battery generally accepts a faster charging rate as well. Also, always get as much panel as possible, as you said. You never know when you're going to strike some cloudy days. Of course, the practicality of this is determined by space and affordability. Great video, thanks!
I agree with your recommendation. This battery bank is now about 5 years old but still providing good power. When they stop taking a charge I'm definitely considering a two 6V golf cart battery bank. Thank you for watching, I appreciate it :)
thanks for the vid,and for explaining this clearly . i just bought a dometic cff45 , and the dometic plb40 power pack , the guy said if i need to keep going off grid was to add a 120 amp solar panel , i was told the cff45 will last 38-45 hours alone on the plb40 depending on weather and how many times i open it ect ,
OK. SO I went through as well and have a 15 Watt double sided panel to run a similar fridge with the Danfoss motor. The label says it only needs 0.6amps to run... which I believe (somewhat). so P=IxV so 15w/12v=1.25amps.. OK. there's no way you could cool the fridge from scratch but you're in a van. Engel say in their instructions that before going anywhere cool the fridge down to almost freezing via 240V (Australia here). So get it seriously cold close to freezing and then treat the fridge like an icebox rather than a fridge. (Do this with all the food init ofcourse). Then load it into you car, van or boat, turn up the temp meaning fridge temp and run it on 12volts from the car as you travel. Your batteries will be chockablock and the fridge super cool. It WILL consume around 0.6amps when you do that. So when finally stop for lunch the fridge is being maintained by that silly little 15watt poly panel, which I've assumed is now only 50% efficient because of wrong angle, clouds and imperfect conditions...but its still enough to run the fridge without touching the battery. Start elevating the panel and pointing it manually and you're laughing. If you never move your 100AH battery will last a week before you have to do anything.. and I doubt you could sit still that long.
It's been quite some time since I made this video but I think the battery type is a Duralast dual purpose deep cycle 12V battery from autozone or one of those auto parts stores. It is nothing special and definitely not the best choice out there for deep cycle batteries. I was using Renogy 100 watt monocrystalline solar panels. Sorry but I can't answer the question on the yeti 100 because I have never used one or even seen one in person. I don't know anything about the yeti 100 or what it is capable of. Hope this helps you a little.
This Dometic has been one of the best investments I have made as far as traveling and camping. I'm sure it's paid for itself with ice and eating out savings. Thanks for watching!
you are getting close but amp-hour is a unit of capacity of the battery and you are using a certain amount of watt-hours and you will have to recharge with the same amount of watt-hours. So you just have to multiply by an average 12.5 volts and you are right on. 5 amp x 12.5 volt=62.4 watts and you said 65 watts this is perfect. 62.5watts*12 hours*.22 (22% duty cycle)= 165 watt-hour x2= 330 watt-hour for a 24 hours day. You used energy so you used watt-hour of energy, a total of 330 watt-hour in a day witch is very similar to Engel and Edgestar and Whynter fridge. Your battery is big enough 85 amp-hour * 12.5 volts= 1062 watt-hour but you can use only half of it so 1062/2= 531 watt-hours available and you need only 330 so in conclusion your battery is big enough I like that you measure the fact that a standard 100 watt solar panel deliver most of the time around 75 watts so how many hours of sun do you need to recharge these 330 watt-hours 330 watt-hour / 75 watts= 4.4 hours so this should be easily done on a sunny day. So one 100 watt solar panel and one battery is enough for the fridge but if you need to use the fantastic fan, it is a very different ball game. For a month, i did a lot of calculation but a never took into account the 75 watts available most of the time for a 100 watts solar panel. So i thank you for that, because of you, i will be better in the future. Keep up the good work. All together, we are getting better because everybody learn from everybody so no salesman can push bullshit on us.
Very well said and your numbers make perfect sense according to my testing. My personal belief is most people think they need way more than what is actually needed to do the job. My goal is to find out exactly what is needed and what is fluff. I have decided to go with the 105Ah battery simply because I have it and I don't think it's too much heavier than the littler one. I do agree the 85Ah would do the job and if that's all I had I would just go with it. I am doing some of the same overnight testing with the 105Ah battery and I'll show that on my next couple of videos just for those who like this kind of stuff. I do not have a fantastic fan installed on this van yet and I'm going to give this trip a try without it, then make a decision weather or not I'm going to install one. I do however have a little oscillating 12V fan that only uses .5 amps per hour and I'll see if it's going to be enough. This van set up and trip in general is going to be a trial and error trip for me. I am doing many different things compared to my previous van set up (build). I will know exactly what I do and don't need after this trip. Thanks for your input, it is much appreciated.
it wouldn't hurt to have a 2nd 100 watt panel and a 2nd 105ah battery. I would suggest V Max , some battery that has no cranking amps... 125ah -155ah V Max alone would raise your storing capacity. if you only bring the battery down to 80 percent state of charge, your controller would be able to recharge more quickly, and the battery would retain a longer life span.... hope this opinion gives you something to consider......
I agree with you 100%. I had limited time and space when I put this van together. I will be making a mental note of all the desired upgrades or changes. I plan to make a few changes when I get back home after this winter season. Thanks for the ideas and suggestions.
I do believe you'll be ok. I sure don't know any more than you but by using your calculation of 13.5 ah used in a 12 hr period = 27 ah per day based on a 70 degree day (averaging your starting outside temp of 80 and finishing temp of 60. Your 100 watt panel putting out 75 watts mounted flat on a sunny day, figuring 7 hrs of good sunlight per day in the winter ( 75 watts ÷ 13~14 volts = 5.76 amps per hr charge x 7 hrs sunlight = 40 ah per day charge - 27 ah used for the fridge = 13 ah to spare. You're in the pink! It will probably run less with a fridge full to retain the cool.
Thank you for finishing up all the details and math on this test. You are correct and I agree 100%. One bad sun day and I'll have to charge the battery with a drive using the vehicle's alternator but that's not a problem either. Thanks again for your input.
WannaBFree Probably not reading material for the average person here. I was going to buy a set of harbor freight jumper cables to run the power to, and cut the ends off of, and send power to the back of my van, but they were made of copper coated aluminum and too short. So I ran 16 ft of 10 guage multi stranded pure copper wire (multi carries more voltage and amps, Utube watchers) and still my back voltage lags slightly behind my front starting battery. Easy to equalize by leaving my continuous selenoid closed after parking, at the risk of sulfating my starting battery. Guess I'd better get some solar if I want to full time. Everybody, don't forget fuses on both ends! 😨
I've never had an agm battery but I know a lot of people who do and love them. I think either agm or if you want to spend a lot more money you could get a lithium battery.
The fridge was empty for all my tests. I figured that would simulate a worst case scenario. If the fridge and battery would work empty it would surely be fine when it was full.
Should you have a DC to DC converter to the computer or a DC to AC. becomes a bit unnecessary to first power up to 110v and then use the computer's power supply to get it down to the power the computer needs. just think if you do not need 110v. think it saves the battery a little more. one thought only. unnecessary to waste energy. ;)
I agree about it being a waste to use an inverter and then bump it back down to the voltage a computer needs to run and charge. I think Apple has one but I'm not sure about PC.
do a search on your particular laptop brand and car charger. can work with one of these. www.google.se/search?q=laptop+car+charger&num=20&newwindow=1&client=firefox-b&dcr=0&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwi-2d-A2JHWAhXkYJoKHSasCQ4Q_AUICigB&biw=1314&bih=850
To be safe if you boondock full time you should have a battery that will run for 5 days no solar, also lithium will take every bit of solar power you throw at it , if you have agm they will only except some solar power, I boondock full time and if you want a true drop in lithium go with goal zero lithium solar generators, because your not just getting lithium’s but a lithium meter , pure sine wave inverter ,lithium mppt plus USBs and a 12volt cig plug , connect solar to the goal zero yeti and that’s it , and you can also keep your agms ,personally I got sick of checking the meter all the time because of the permanent draw of my fridge freezer , the day I turned it off was a huge relief, I now use my batteries for microwave and aircon and if I’m low on power I can use my stove top and when it’s hot I can run a fan or open the windows, the power is now in my hands no constant draw, I can also charge my agms with the goal zero yeti
New subscriber here! I'm wondering I have a CF 18. Much smaller. I also keep it at 38. Would I be able to get away with a smaller solar panel? Like a 50? I have a flexible 135 watt that I use as a portable. Its a pain to set up. Anyone? I have a 125 amp battery btw.
I would have to look at some of the specs on your fridge before I could answer that. Without working some numbers and knowing what I know about the CF50 I would think you could do it with no problems. A 125Ah battery is more than enough I'm just not positive on the 50W solar without knowing some numbers on your fridge. Someone here probably has that info and will hopefully chime in to let you know.
WannaBFree I actually was looking at Amazon and found a great deal on a folding 80 watt panel so yes I ordered it. I'm thinking 80 would be fine. Thank so much!
The lithium inverter batteries will NOT run 12VDC refrigerator / freezers...…. I just got the Yeti1000 and am so disappointed I could scream. I needed 12VDC to keep the discharge rate down for camping and it doesn't even power on the lights, AC works fine but only for 14 hrs. Goal Zero says its working on the problem AHHHHHHHHHH, working the problem after I just dropped $1100 on this thing. I have the Dometic 95 dual zone which was one of the top rated dual zones you can get. WTF!!!!!! Plugged it into my jeep and it ran fine. Goal Zero needs to fix this ASAP and send that fix free of charge to customers NOW!!!!
Good info. Now to buy your refrigerator? Don't buy it cheat at your online store. Why? You made a decision that you want the refrigerated for as few yr broken or not. The logic is you can get online shipped to you. But it break. If you have a 2 yr warranty you need to pay for shipping 2 way to the manafacture and back to you. Beside you need to save the box. Recites. A week of proving picture of condition your box and what broke and recite before you get a ok number sticker to ship it back. For me it's cost about 240 so about 480 buck to get it repaired in shipping. The solution go and buy or order it at your local west marine. It's about the same price. And buy a 2 yr warranty. Shipping free. No box needed. Cost 120 buck for 2 yr warranty. Can't fix it you get a new one. I don't buy warranty but here it make sense. As I then would be face with why pay 500 buck in repair shipping may as well, spend another 200 and have A new one now
I've had my Dometic CF-50 for about 4 years now and it has not given me any problems yet thankfully. I did not buy the warranty when I purchased it. I have no idea what the local shops around me charge for this refrigerator as I never go to those stores but that may be a good idea. Thanks for the information.
You came out ahead. That the gamble. Your local west marine prices surprising aren't that much of a difference surprising.not more than 80 buck super cheap or same price. The reason is they have a regular store shipping container every week. What happen was I brought a north frost mini dorm standup. But the freezer door was broken. He gave me 20 % off but it's didn't work the fan coudnt turn easily. They returned it and I got a new one in really less than 2 week. I payed the extra 20% discount back and brought the 120 buck warranty for 2 yr now. I love my stand up. 35 watts and room as a 80 L and the freezer on top can really store frozen ice cream frozen while the bottom a ice box . Believe only the largest domestic are real duel temperature compartments
And other thing on your subject. The cross line is 80 degrees as. My instruction say. say keep the setting below 3 at that temp. Or the compressor will run continuous. Research it. That true. You set your refrigerator at the highest setting that the compressor can cycle off. But not continuous. Cause it shorten the life. To beat that. You insulated. Mine I put it under the bed and blanket around. The work I could turn it down setting 2-1/2 . Because it a well and when I open the door cold get out . I put a plexiglass about 8" at the bottom to hold the cold in. And I added my cold aluminum frying pan I cook my week meat in and a glass container. Both retain cold as you open the door to recover. Now I run it on 2. And still frozen the freezer And still cycle. I live in Honolulu 90 probably.
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One of the best videos I've seen on simple solar for novices like me. Thank you.
Thank you, I appreciate that. I'm glad the video helped you out some. Good luck with your project and thanks for watching. :)
Very clear handwriting :) Yes 100 watt panel with ~100 Ah Battery should do it, also worth getting a USB Battery Bank to mop up any spare power during the day.
I hadn't thought of that but that's a fantastic idea. Thank you for your input.
Love that idea... especially since I can charge all my camera and headlamps from a battery bank.
Nice and easy to understand soft spoken to the point and legible thanks will be back
Thanks and welcome
Great methodology for determining battery requirements. My only suggestions would be to try and not go as low as 50% state of charge if possible. So the more battery you have, the better. A larger battery generally accepts a faster charging rate as well. Also, always get as much panel as possible, as you said. You never know when you're going to strike some cloudy days.
Of course, the practicality of this is determined by space and affordability.
Great video, thanks!
That is some good information and I agree with you. Good luck to you with your projects and safe travels.
I would recommend 2 golf cart batterys. last longer more reserve power. the rest of you video was very good info and presented great.
I agree with your recommendation. This battery bank is now about 5 years old but still providing good power. When they stop taking a charge I'm definitely considering a two 6V golf cart battery bank. Thank you for watching, I appreciate it :)
this helped me so much! thank u!
You're so welcome!
thanks for the vid,and for explaining this clearly . i just bought a dometic cff45 , and the dometic plb40 power pack , the guy said if i need to keep going off grid was to add a 120 amp solar panel , i was told the cff45 will last 38-45 hours alone on the plb40 depending on weather and how many times i open it ect ,
They are great little refrigerators. I hope you enjoy yours as much as we have enjoyed ours.
Boy, I knew I should have paid more attention in math class.
Ha, math is one of my worst subjects. Who knew I'd be halfway through life before I started using it. LOL
Thanks for the information. It clears things up a bit. I just need to look at my biggest power hogs and see how much power they use.
Hope it helps :)
been think about adding solar and dc frig. appreciate the info.
Thank you, glad it helped you out.
👍🏽Great Informative Video! Man You Just Answered A bunch Of My Questions All At Once👌🏽
I'm glad you liked it and it helped you out. Thanks for watching.
Very nice fridge! And pretty small too!
Thank you
nice explanation. thank you so much!
You are welcome and thank you for watching. :)
OK. SO I went through as well and have a 15 Watt double sided panel to run a similar fridge with the Danfoss motor. The label says it only needs 0.6amps to run... which I believe (somewhat). so P=IxV so 15w/12v=1.25amps.. OK. there's no way you could cool the fridge from scratch but you're in a van. Engel say in their instructions that before going anywhere cool the fridge down to almost freezing via 240V (Australia here). So get it seriously cold close to freezing and then treat the fridge like an icebox rather than a fridge. (Do this with all the food init ofcourse). Then load it into you car, van or boat, turn up the temp meaning fridge temp and run it on 12volts from the car as you travel. Your batteries will be chockablock and the fridge super cool. It WILL consume around 0.6amps when you do that. So when finally stop for lunch the fridge is being maintained by that silly little 15watt poly panel, which I've assumed is now only 50% efficient because of wrong angle, clouds and imperfect conditions...but its still enough to run the fridge without touching the battery. Start elevating the panel and pointing it manually and you're laughing. If you never move your 100AH battery will last a week before you have to do anything.. and I doubt you could sit still that long.
Great ideas and tips. Sounds like it will work to me.
It's been quite some time since I made this video but I think the battery type is a Duralast dual purpose deep cycle 12V battery from autozone or one of those auto parts stores. It is nothing special and definitely not the best choice out there for deep cycle batteries. I was using Renogy 100 watt monocrystalline solar panels. Sorry but I can't answer the question on the yeti 100 because I have never used one or even seen one in person. I don't know anything about the yeti 100 or what it is capable of. Hope this helps you a little.
can you please tell me what fridge and what size you are referring to that uses that kind of low power? thanks
Nice Bro, thumbs up on the Dometic, gonna have to get me 1 lol 👍😊
This Dometic has been one of the best investments I have made as far as traveling and camping. I'm sure it's paid for itself with ice and eating out savings. Thanks for watching!
I so agree. Love my little fridge!
you are getting close but amp-hour is a unit of capacity of the battery and you are using a certain amount of watt-hours and you will have to recharge with the same amount of watt-hours. So you just have to multiply by an average 12.5 volts and you are right on. 5 amp x 12.5 volt=62.4 watts and you said 65 watts this is perfect. 62.5watts*12 hours*.22 (22% duty cycle)= 165 watt-hour x2= 330 watt-hour for a 24 hours day. You used energy so you used watt-hour of energy, a total of 330 watt-hour in a day witch is very similar to Engel and Edgestar and Whynter fridge. Your battery is big enough 85 amp-hour * 12.5 volts= 1062 watt-hour but you can use only half of it so 1062/2= 531 watt-hours available and you need only 330 so in conclusion your battery is big enough
I like that you measure the fact that a standard 100 watt solar panel deliver most of the time around 75 watts so how many hours of sun do you need to recharge these 330 watt-hours 330 watt-hour / 75 watts= 4.4 hours so this should be easily done on a sunny day. So one 100 watt solar panel and one battery is enough for the fridge but if you need to use the fantastic fan, it is a very different ball game.
For a month, i did a lot of calculation but a never took into account the 75 watts available most of the time for a 100 watts solar panel. So i thank you for that, because of you, i will be better in the future. Keep up the good work. All together, we are getting better because everybody learn from everybody so no salesman can push bullshit on us.
Very well said and your numbers make perfect sense according to my testing. My personal belief is most people think they need way more than what is actually needed to do the job. My goal is to find out exactly what is needed and what is fluff. I have decided to go with the 105Ah battery simply because I have it and I don't think it's too much heavier than the littler one. I do agree the 85Ah would do the job and if that's all I had I would just go with it. I am doing some of the same overnight testing with the 105Ah battery and I'll show that on my next couple of videos just for those who like this kind of stuff. I do not have a fantastic fan installed on this van yet and I'm going to give this trip a try without it, then make a decision weather or not I'm going to install one. I do however have a little oscillating 12V fan that only uses .5 amps per hour and I'll see if it's going to be enough. This van set up and trip in general is going to be a trial and error trip for me. I am doing many different things compared to my previous van set up (build). I will know exactly what I do and don't need after this trip. Thanks for your input, it is much appreciated.
it wouldn't hurt to have a 2nd 100 watt panel and a 2nd 105ah battery. I would suggest V Max , some battery that has no cranking amps... 125ah -155ah V Max alone would raise your storing capacity. if you only bring the battery down to 80 percent state of charge, your controller would be able to recharge more quickly, and the battery would retain a longer life span.... hope this opinion gives you something to consider......
I agree with you 100%. I had limited time and space when I put this van together. I will be making a mental note of all the desired upgrades or changes. I plan to make a few changes when I get back home after this winter season. Thanks for the ideas and suggestions.
zhkopec is a good channel to check out, he's pretty slick, he breaks it all down to a simple (how to)
Thanks for sharing
Thanks for watching:)
I do believe you'll be ok. I sure don't know any more than you but by using your calculation of 13.5 ah used in a 12 hr period = 27 ah per day based on a 70 degree day (averaging your starting outside temp of 80 and finishing temp of 60. Your 100 watt panel putting out 75 watts mounted flat on a sunny day, figuring 7 hrs of good sunlight per day in the winter ( 75 watts ÷ 13~14 volts = 5.76 amps per hr charge x 7 hrs sunlight = 40 ah per day charge - 27 ah used for the fridge = 13 ah to spare. You're in the pink! It will probably run less with a fridge full to retain the cool.
Thank you for finishing up all the details and math on this test. You are correct and I agree 100%. One bad sun day and I'll have to charge the battery with a drive using the vehicle's alternator but that's not a problem either. Thanks again for your input.
WannaBFree Probably not reading material for the average person here. I was going to buy a set of harbor freight jumper cables to run the power to, and cut the ends off of, and send power to the back of my van, but they were made of copper coated aluminum and too short. So I ran 16 ft of 10 guage multi stranded pure copper wire (multi carries more voltage and amps, Utube watchers) and still my back voltage lags slightly behind my front starting battery. Easy to equalize by leaving my continuous selenoid closed after parking, at the risk of sulfating my starting battery. Guess I'd better get some solar if I want to full time. Everybody, don't forget fuses on both ends! 😨
Good info, thanks for the comment.
Do you recommend amg ?
I've never had an agm battery but I know a lot of people who do and love them. I think either agm or if you want to spend a lot more money you could get a lithium battery.
@@WannaBFree did you mean AGM
Yes
How much food in the fridge??
The fridge was empty for all my tests. I figured that would simulate a worst case scenario. If the fridge and battery would work empty it would surely be fine when it was full.
See how paper and pen still work and how can someone with common sense can explain it to the average Joe without fancy stuff? Thanks!
Thank you for watching, hope it helped you out!
Should you have a DC to DC converter to the computer or a DC to AC. becomes a bit unnecessary to first power up to 110v and then use the computer's power supply to get it down to the power the computer needs. just think if you do not need 110v. think it saves the battery a little more. one thought only. unnecessary to waste energy. ;)
I agree about it being a waste to use an inverter and then bump it back down to the voltage a computer needs to run and charge. I think Apple has one but I'm not sure about PC.
do a search on your particular laptop brand and car charger. can work with one of these. www.google.se/search?q=laptop+car+charger&num=20&newwindow=1&client=firefox-b&dcr=0&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwi-2d-A2JHWAhXkYJoKHSasCQ4Q_AUICigB&biw=1314&bih=850
on many of the models you can adjust the voltage. as well as choose if plus is in the middle or outer contact.
You need a nominal 12v to 19v converter (most laptops need 19v) And then splice in with the male connector that plugs into the laptop.
Dependson weather
Yes it does.
To be safe if you boondock full time you should have a battery that will run for 5 days no solar, also lithium will take every bit of solar power you throw at it , if you have agm they will only except some solar power, I boondock full time and if you want a true drop in lithium go with goal zero lithium solar generators, because your not just getting lithium’s but a lithium meter , pure sine wave inverter ,lithium mppt plus USBs and a 12volt cig plug , connect solar to the goal zero yeti and that’s it , and you can also keep your agms ,personally I got sick of checking the meter all the time because of the permanent draw of my fridge freezer , the day I turned it off was a huge relief, I now use my batteries for microwave and aircon and if I’m low on power I can use my stove top and when it’s hot I can run a fan or open the windows, the power is now in my hands no constant draw, I can also charge my agms with the goal zero yeti
New subscriber here! I'm wondering I have a CF 18. Much smaller. I also keep it at 38. Would I be able to get away with a smaller solar panel? Like a 50? I have a flexible 135 watt that I use as a portable. Its a pain to set up. Anyone? I have a 125 amp battery btw.
I would have to look at some of the specs on your fridge before I could answer that. Without working some numbers and knowing what I know about the CF50 I would think you could do it with no problems. A 125Ah battery is more than enough I'm just not positive on the 50W solar without knowing some numbers on your fridge. Someone here probably has that info and will hopefully chime in to let you know.
WannaBFree I actually was looking at Amazon and found a great deal on a folding 80 watt panel so yes I ordered it. I'm thinking 80 would be fine. Thank so much!
Sounds good :)
Michelle Phillips was your 80 watt panel enough to not worry about power?
Now...this makes sense to my female brain!!!!! Kindest Regards
You are welcome, thanks for watching :)
The lithium inverter batteries will NOT run 12VDC refrigerator / freezers...…. I just got the Yeti1000 and am so disappointed I could scream. I needed 12VDC to keep the discharge rate down for camping and it doesn't even power on the lights, AC works fine but only for 14 hrs. Goal Zero says its working on the problem AHHHHHHHHHH, working the problem after I just dropped $1100 on this thing. I have the Dometic 95 dual zone which was one of the top rated dual zones you can get. WTF!!!!!! Plugged it into my jeep and it ran fine. Goal Zero needs to fix this ASAP and send that fix free of charge to customers NOW!!!!
I would agree with you. Thanks for sharing.
Good info. Now to buy your refrigerator? Don't buy it cheat at your online store. Why? You made a decision that you want the refrigerated for as few yr broken or not. The logic is you can get online shipped to you. But it break. If you have a 2 yr warranty you need to pay for shipping 2 way to the manafacture and back to you. Beside you need to save the box. Recites. A week of proving picture of condition your box and what broke and recite before you get a ok number sticker to ship it back. For me it's cost about 240 so about 480 buck to get it repaired in shipping.
The solution go and buy or order it at your local west marine. It's about the same price. And buy a 2 yr warranty. Shipping free. No box needed. Cost 120 buck for 2 yr warranty. Can't fix it you get a new one. I don't buy warranty but here it make sense. As I then would be face with why pay 500 buck in repair shipping may as well, spend another 200 and have A new one now
I've had my Dometic CF-50 for about 4 years now and it has not given me any problems yet thankfully. I did not buy the warranty when I purchased it. I have no idea what the local shops around me charge for this refrigerator as I never go to those stores but that may be a good idea. Thanks for the information.
You came out ahead. That the gamble. Your local west marine prices surprising aren't that much of a difference surprising.not more than 80 buck super cheap or same price. The reason is they have a regular store shipping container every week.
What happen was I brought a north frost mini dorm standup. But the freezer door was broken. He gave me 20 % off but it's didn't work the fan coudnt turn easily. They returned it and I got a new one in really less than 2 week. I payed the extra 20% discount back and brought the 120 buck warranty for 2 yr now. I love my stand up. 35 watts and room as a 80 L and the freezer on top can really store frozen ice cream frozen while the bottom a ice box . Believe only the largest domestic are real duel temperature compartments
And other thing on your subject. The cross line is 80 degrees as. My instruction say. say keep the setting below 3 at that temp. Or the compressor will run continuous. Research it. That true. You set your refrigerator at the highest setting that the compressor can cycle off. But not continuous. Cause it shorten the life.
To beat that. You insulated. Mine I put it under the bed and blanket around. The work I could turn it down setting 2-1/2 . Because it a well and when I open the door cold get out . I put a plexiglass about 8" at the bottom to hold the cold in. And I added my cold aluminum frying pan I cook my week meat in and a glass container. Both retain cold as you open the door to recover. Now I run it on 2. And still frozen the freezer And still cycle. I live in Honolulu 90 probably.