Knifemaking: Heat Treating 1084 Steel Part 1...

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  • Опубликовано: 4 фев 2025

Комментарии • 10

  • @J.TurnerHandmadeKnives
    @J.TurnerHandmadeKnives 3 года назад +1

    Would you normalize a blade that was made via the stock removal method?

    • @sanjacintoknives
      @sanjacintoknives  3 года назад +1

      I would. Mainly because 1. You never really know how the steel was heat treated prior to getting to you and 2. Heat can build up in spots in an unequal manner that can cause warpage during quench or inconsistency in the blade/edge. Its worth it to me to be sure and to have more consistent results

  • @Ivan-hj1kd
    @Ivan-hj1kd 6 лет назад

    Excellent information sir...really well done...thanks so much.
    This answers lots of questions for me.Can't wait to see part 2.

  • @robgooch6367
    @robgooch6367 6 лет назад +2

    Super video. Thanks for sharing. I have been getting good results from 1084 in fairly thick blades. I control the hamon with the clay (thickness and amount down the blade).. I tried mixing the satanite with vinegar and let it dry. I get some weird effects from that. Thanks again!

  • @J.TurnerHandmadeKnives
    @J.TurnerHandmadeKnives 3 года назад

    How much soak time would you recommend for 3/16 steel? I grind bevels after heat treat. Thanks.

    • @sanjacintoknives
      @sanjacintoknives  3 года назад

      Depends on the steel and your method but most tool steep recommends somewhere around 15-20 mins per 1/4”. But you have to pay close attention to instructions from tool steep guides because some will refer to test pieces up to an inch thick!! ...you will have to reduce time.
      Testing will be your best friend.