BMW K1600 Scheduled Maintenance - Part 2
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- Опубликовано: 25 дек 2024
- In this part, I deviated from the manual in a few ways.
1) I conducted the battery charge test off camera (simply using a multimeter-- it was fine)
2) as mentioned in the video, I did not compress the calliper pistons in the front like the manual calls for (I cannot seem to find my compressor)
3) I did not bleed the front master cylinder , since my bike does not have a bleed nipple at the top like the 2011/2012 models did
Also - i did not install the speed bleeders up front because the size sent was too small, and I only realized this as I tried to screw them in.
Regarding compressing the pistons- the reason we do this is to squeeze out the pooled fluid in behind all the pistons up front. A simple bleed like the video shows doesn't scavenge out that fluid well. The manual has you remove the brake pads, then compress all the pistons back into their bore after you empty the reservoir up top with the baster. When you do this compression it will squeeze old fluid back up and probably fill up the reservoir, which you can in turn draw off and dispose.
You keep the pistons compressed while you do the actual bleed, and then afterwards put the pads back in and pump them out with the brake lever..
It is a good idea to do this extra step, and i will re-bleed the front when the proper sized speed bleeders arrive.
The entire service can be relatively quick , (maybe an hour and a half if you are very fast and have done this before), but I would plan on a morning or afternoon when you include clean up and unforeseen interruptions.
Thanks for showing that oil condensate hose, I had no idea where that was but I do now. Mine I just checked and it was also bone dry, so good.
Absolutely wonderful. Most informative. A pleasure watching and listening to you. Very well done.
Thanks for all your videos.... it gives me great comfort with doing some of the routine maintenance myself. Thanks
These videos are so helpful. Thank you for your time and effort.
Great Video Chris you help a lot of owners thank you.
Excellent video - very much appreciate the tips and tricks! I'll look into the speed bleeders! Best regards,
Very informative and articulated. Thankyou Chris
If you use the bag, there is no need for speed bleeders. I’ve never like the speedbleeders, but their bag works great. Just hang it high so the fluid is always going uphill and you can flush by yourself with no chance of air getting pulled back in. I generally can push the brake caliper pistons in my hand if you apply pressure and are patient for a second or two as they move.
This is some good information!!
Like i said on part 1 just in July 2018 purchased a 2016 k1600gt with 5.580 miles on it.
These two videos will definitely help me save a few dollars by not let BMW dealership do all of the maintenance on this motorcycle that GS911 is definitely worth $399.
What does BMW say about warranty coverage if somebody other than a dealer does this work? Specifically, the valve clearance check and shim bucket changes? All well and good after the warranty has lapsed and you're doing it all to spec, but are you leaving yourself open to a claim denial should a problem occur?
Chris, I find you video's very informational . I recently purchased a new 1600 GT and will be using some of your suggestions with accessories and maintenance. First and foremost, I'm going to purchase an Aeroflow windshield. Keep up the good work.
I would make a suggestion that when you buy your Aeroflow that you call and speak to the company to give them specific information about your measurements so that they can sell you the appropriate height shield. I think you will really like it.
With the gs911 after bleeding the brakes system, are you not supposed to activate the ABS pump? And repeat this 3 times?
Thanks for your expertise.
Norm
The manual does not have that as a required process. The ABS systems have advanced dramatically over the past 25 years, so most likely the current design doesn't require it, or artificially activating the pump presents other risks.
Most interesting videos thank you
Did you ever make a part 3 to show the valve check/adjustment? I searched your channel, but did not find anything.
Hi Chris. I need to service my K1600 and I can't find any info on checking the bearing deflection on the rear swing arm. Could you help?
Im Sorry -- but i cant help there
There’s a need for more vids on these bikes, they are getting old and more serious maintenance tasks are going to be performed by owners.
Hello, can you tell me how i can change the headlights on the bmw k 1600gt please?
What about the brake fluid in the ABS unit, that needs changing too?
Only asking because there has been a lot of trouble in Ireland with abs pump, no one was changing the brake fluid in them and caused failures.
Thank you for taking the time to post the videos.
motorsupplies good point but my experience with these newer generation ABS units is that the normal bleeding shown here (and outlined in the service guide) flushes the entire system, including the actual ABS pump. I am aware of the earlier bikes' issues however I have not heard of any of those problems in the K16.
Chris On the Street
Sound, I just got last summer R1200RT 2006 and love it. Got the GS-911 wifi to do the servicing. It's first going over I brought it to BMW dealer and it cost me €1,900 but got them down to €1,580. That all started because of the recall on the rear arm. So I got the diagnostic tool and looked on here for any videos and found your. And againThank you for making your videos
great videos !
do the sparkplugs, please and also. where can i find that check list or diagrams in order to center my windshield holder/raiser
Thanks my friend !
So it looks like I must buy the wifi adapter , GS 911 computer program, AND a separate PC laptop since I am a Mac guy. to do this?
you will need the GS911 to update the service light on the bike, but a Mac will work
Good information. I'm looking at getting a GTL soon. It is a 2012 model. Does the 2012 use that service code device also?
Thanks!
Olli K yes the red unit shown will work with your bike.
I use the GS911 reader for my K1600GTL. Amazing tool pays for itself the very first oil change
Did I miss bleeding the clutch line? I just did the front brakes (thanks for the wonderful step-by step btw!) and will get to the rear tomorrow. Even though I'm a decent mechanic watching someone do it first is a huge help.
o2bsenna the clutch is not part of this particular service interval. Additionally, it uses a different type of fluid.
Hi,
I have to add cooling liquid in my BMW K1600 GT (the level is under the min indicator).
But I don't know how to do.
Do you have a video or a link ton help me ?
Thanks for all
you will need to remove some of the plastic on the right side of the bike. I do not have a video of it, but if you watch me taking the plastic off on the left side in my stereo upgrade it will give you some idea how to do it (not difficult)
Chris On the Street thanks Chris. I’m gonna see your video
Can you give me the link off that video. I cannot find it
ruclips.net/video/VCT6_zlgaVA/видео.html
What's included in the 72K large maintenance ?
the service manual only refers to 12000km or 24000km -- so it would be the same as a 24K
Question, I have the K1600 GT and want to swap to GTL bars. Bought the bars, not the GT bars are not coming off. What I mean is, the switches and stuff will not come loose on the GT bars. Am I doing something wrong or can the black straight bar all the controls are mounted to just slip out of the silver risers somehow and I can reuse the black straight bar??? Ughhhhh, this is freaking killing me and the book doesn't tell me much.
The steps to remove the left switch are more involved than a conventional style switch block. You cannot separate the halves or you risk breaking the electrical connections inside the block. Sadly, most folks start by unscrewing the 2 screws that appear to be holding the switch unit together, and that can damage the unit. You work on this at your own risk!
You remove the left (clutch side) by pushing back the rubber grip away from the switch block, and loosen the screw under there. Then unclip the wire lead to the block where it is held against the bar riser (to get slack )and gently pull the whole unit off the end of the bar, grip and all. Once off , you unplug the lead from the bike.
I would compered buying the service manual to walk you through the process.
Figured it out. Wasn't to bad. Was a hidden screw on the left side under the hand grip. Gotta love them germans lol. Right side was easier. Wasn't bad overall, just a pain finding all the screws lol. GTL bars work great, no wires had to be replaced and brake line still has plenty of room on the right side. Just need the GTL pegs for driver and I'm all set lol.
@@scotty2221 Scotty, I'm torn between buying the GT and the GTL.
Did you find the GT too much of a 'sport oriented' rider position, i.e., leaning too far forward? Just curious.
@@burnerjack01 I did however, I bought the GT and switched out to a GTL seat and GTL handlebars :)
The GT was just to hard on my arms and shoulders for the way I ride. I also have a peg lowering kit as the GTL pegs are too high. I'm only 5'10 but have shorter arms so GTL position was much better and easier on my back because of the seat position. Hope this helps ya John!
why does bmw recommend that every time the brake fluid cap is removed it needs replaced? Makes no sense as mine looks fine! By the way, thanks for your GREAT video.
This comment caught me off guard, since I know i did not replace the cap on the bike. I reviewed section 34 00 504, specifically page 4/8. There is no mention of replacing the cap.
If my car can go 10 years with all season driving with little to no difference in braking without changing the fluid, I don't know why a motorcycle would require it.
Your car can go decades without changing the oil too but that is also highly careless. Your car cannot go 10 years with proper maintenance on brake fluid it will have seriously deteriorated long before that time, and why would you risk it when a pint of fluid costs on $5???
@@slowery43 It's not the $5... It's the hassle of going to the store, spending probably more than $5, bleeding my lines and disposing of the used fluid only to find out there's virtually no difference in braking. If it ain't broke, don't fix it. This is just scare tactics. Honestly, I just changed the brake fluid on my 2007 Camry that I have had since new. It did make a difference but my car always stopped when I needed it too. Even under hard braking.