29:37 My guess are the power traces on the perfboard are too small for your application or something has caused a large, but unseeable, break in the trace(s) in question. Soldering a bare wire along them might fix it. But this is a guess from my own experience from almost 30 years ago.
I've done 5v projects with arduino in a vehicle and what I've experienced is the different buck converters loose most of it's power through heat and some gets too hot and switches off because it has an internal thermal protection. What you need is an adjustable linear voltage driver that has a heat shink attached to it, you do get premade ones also but what I've done to beef it up is to change the capacitor to a larger one to store more power and take a lot of the voltage delivery strain off of the switching components. Try the Lm317 adjustable voltage regulator driver, works perfectly.
My guess would be that the processor board has had an overload that has shorted, partially, the 5v line internally. Probably terminal for the board at this point. Somehow you've possibly put too high a voltage on one or more of the processor pins. If you look at the video in close up at 27:53 ish, one of the LEDs flashes briefly (top left, 3rd LED in from the left). This may be an indicator of when the fault occurred. You need to check the continuity on all of the supply and signal lines.
i didn't think I saw a light flicker so looked at where you suggested, and I see what you mean, but I paused it on that exact frame and going back and forwards one frame you can see it's just a fleck of dust that goes past the front of camera and happens to line up with that spot. Very deceptive! And I thought too that something might have overloaded it (though, all the power getting to the board was regulated to 5v), but I put a 9v signal directly on the VIN and GND pins and it booted up fine. It's still a bit of a mystery, but I'm sure I'll solve it when I get time!
Looking forward to the next video. Hopefully the PCB fixes the issue, but it’s a bit strange that it worked fine the day you put it together, and now suddenly it doesn’t work anymore… 🤔
I have an Arduino nano in my boot controlling Wig Wag rear fog lights, we are all desensitised to yellow flashing lights but my rear fogs alternating cannot be missed :)
@@GarageTinkering Yes, while red is not specifically banned like blue is, the regulations state that the only permitted flashing light colour on a non emergency vehicle is Amber which makes my rear fogs illegal by default but you will be unlucky to get done for them if they are only ever used in a safety scenario, I have no worry's about having them on should I need to stop in a dangerous location.
Not chastising your design nor your idea, but honestly, due to the environment, I would have tested the shit out of this, and then did the artwork for a PCB, and sent it to the Chinese to make you some boards. They are much more durable and will tolerate much more abuse. Even PCBway would have been better than perfboard. Keep up the dedication to it.
Good project except for the use of T-taps. They're the single-most failure-prone connectors available. Great for short-term emergency repairs but they should never be permanent.
@@GarageTinkering I worked for many years as an auto electrician and the amount of intermittent faults that came in for repair were usually caused by T-taps or Scotch-locks. The only reliable way we found to connect into original wiring was soldering and heat-shrink (or insulation tape in a pinch). We also had good results with crimped and soldered Molex connectors (or similar products). They were a lot more time-consuming but they did look more professional.
Good to know that soldering is still the go-to. I'll have a look at doing that then and getting some extra robustness in there! Appreciate the professional perspective
29:37 My guess are the power traces on the perfboard are too small for your application or something has caused a large, but unseeable, break in the trace(s) in question. Soldering a bare wire along them might fix it. But this is a guess from my own experience from almost 30 years ago.
I've done 5v projects with arduino in a vehicle and what I've experienced is the different buck converters loose most of it's power through heat and some gets too hot and switches off because it has an internal thermal protection.
What you need is an adjustable linear voltage driver that has a heat shink attached to it, you do get premade ones also but what I've done to beef it up is to change the capacitor to a larger one to store more power and take a lot of the voltage delivery strain off of the switching components.
Try the Lm317 adjustable voltage regulator driver, works perfectly.
@@buddyrocks6699 I'll look into that. Cheers for the info
Great channel. Being into cars and electronics i really enjoy watching and learning
Those gremlins do like to cause issues. Good to see the work so far, loving the quality, can't wait to see the new PCB in place!
My guess would be that the processor board has had an overload that has shorted, partially, the 5v line internally. Probably terminal for the board at this point. Somehow you've possibly put too high a voltage on one or more of the processor pins. If you look at the video in close up at 27:53 ish, one of the LEDs flashes briefly (top left, 3rd LED in from the left). This may be an indicator of when the fault occurred. You need to check the continuity on all of the supply and signal lines.
i didn't think I saw a light flicker so looked at where you suggested, and I see what you mean, but I paused it on that exact frame and going back and forwards one frame you can see it's just a fleck of dust that goes past the front of camera and happens to line up with that spot. Very deceptive!
And I thought too that something might have overloaded it (though, all the power getting to the board was regulated to 5v), but I put a 9v signal directly on the VIN and GND pins and it booted up fine. It's still a bit of a mystery, but I'm sure I'll solve it when I get time!
Looking forward to the next video. Hopefully the PCB fixes the issue, but it’s a bit strange that it worked fine the day you put it together, and now suddenly it doesn’t work anymore… 🤔
Yeah I'm honestly baffled. Going to hook it up in the house today and see if I can figure out what went wrong. I need closure.
I have an Arduino nano in my boot controlling Wig Wag rear fog lights, we are all desensitised to yellow flashing lights but my rear fogs alternating cannot be missed :)
I had to look up what those were! Yeah, certainly don't look like something you'd miss lol
@@GarageTinkering dont know if your channel allows links but here are my rear fog lights in Wig Wag mode ruclips.net/video/wtHLJ_5ano0/видео.html
@@GarageTinkering tried to link a video of my rear fogs but you have links banned on your channel.
I see it. Yeah that's striking. I'm guessing also illegal?
@@GarageTinkering Yes, while red is not specifically banned like blue is, the regulations state that the only permitted flashing light colour on a non emergency vehicle is Amber which makes my rear fogs illegal by default but you will be unlucky to get done for them if they are only ever used in a safety scenario, I have no worry's about having them on should I need to stop in a dangerous location.
Not chastising your design nor your idea, but honestly, due to the environment, I would have tested the shit out of this, and then did the artwork for a PCB, and sent it to the Chinese to make you some boards. They are much more durable and will tolerate much more abuse. Even PCBway would have been better than perfboard. Keep up the dedication to it.
Yeah that's exactly what I've done. Week or so and I'll have the next iteration
cut the old 5v trace and Use another small cable to jump from the feed 5v to the ESP32,
Yeah that might work in a pinch for testing. Good idea
Good project except for the use of T-taps. They're the single-most failure-prone connectors available. Great for short-term emergency repairs but they should never be permanent.
Curious, I've never had any issues in the past personally. What are you using instead?
@@GarageTinkering I worked for many years as an auto electrician and the amount of intermittent faults that came in for repair were usually caused by T-taps or Scotch-locks. The only reliable way we found to connect into original wiring was soldering and heat-shrink (or insulation tape in a pinch). We also had good results with crimped and soldered Molex connectors (or similar products). They were a lot more time-consuming but they did look more professional.
Good to know that soldering is still the go-to. I'll have a look at doing that then and getting some extra robustness in there! Appreciate the professional perspective
🦙