Good video, what I did was put the rectifier on the other side of the bike. I mounted the rectifier right were the screw is that holds a wire to the tank.
Well done , i made the same but i used the sh847 serie regulator. Mosfet are better than the original but is still a shunt rectifier and works the same way as the original one making the stator work hotter , probably you already knew this. Anyway is good making the wires go directly to battery. Regards.
hello @zxrd2753, what's the difference between SH020AA showed here and your SH847 (if you know it ?) Everybody have to say sh020aa is the better mosfet RR to put in place . Thanks
@@jeromedruais1696 Hi , everybody? i don't thin so , maybe only the people who don't know the sh847 serie rr. I have explained it in my previous comment. There are hundreds of threads on forums like vfrdiscussion, vfrworld... This regulator is not new; it has been around for years. You can easily find why it is the best for motorcycles with stator temperature issues. A short video showing how is working maybe help you. ruclips.net/video/mwBuc0qCGok/видео.html
@@zxrd2753really only makes a difference if you reduce electrical load on the bike. If you aren't running LED lights for example, you'll have no issue with the fh020aa. If you are reducing load on the motorcycle (me if anything I am increasing it, charger for satnav, phone, etc) then consider the series RR. If not, shunt is fine. Another advantage of the shunt type is that you can easily verify its functionality using nothing but a multimeter, the series one not so much.
@@lmaoroflcopter im agree but still series for the vtec is better because make your stator run more cold. some people verified this usin a temperature sensor directly in the coper winding.
Voltage-Characteristics over the rev range? didnt see any readouts 🤷 by the way, getting a second solder iron @ about 50 Watts could be helpful soldering thick cables. 😉
@@andrewonmyway8184 thank you for your answer. lead battery final charge voltage is @ 14,4Volts. shop manual says 14,4V, lights on, @ about 5000rpm. most bike batteries die "before their time" because of never been completely charged correctly. Good luck.
Good video, what I did was put the rectifier on the other side of the bike. I mounted the rectifier right were the screw is that holds a wire to the tank.
That's a great idea! Thanks for watching!
Well done , i made the same but i used the sh847 serie regulator. Mosfet are better than the original but is still a shunt rectifier and works the same way as the original one making the stator work hotter , probably you already knew this.
Anyway is good making the wires go directly to battery.
Regards.
Thanks for watching and your support 🙂
hello @zxrd2753, what's the difference between SH020AA showed here and your SH847 (if you know it ?)
Everybody have to say sh020aa is the better mosfet RR to put in place .
Thanks
@@jeromedruais1696 Hi , everybody? i don't thin so , maybe only the people who don't know the sh847 serie rr.
I have explained it in my previous comment. There are hundreds of threads on forums like vfrdiscussion, vfrworld... This regulator is not new; it has been around for years. You can easily find why it is the best for motorcycles with stator temperature issues.
A short video showing how is working maybe help you.
ruclips.net/video/mwBuc0qCGok/видео.html
@@zxrd2753really only makes a difference if you reduce electrical load on the bike. If you aren't running LED lights for example, you'll have no issue with the fh020aa.
If you are reducing load on the motorcycle (me if anything I am increasing it, charger for satnav, phone, etc) then consider the series RR. If not, shunt is fine.
Another advantage of the shunt type is that you can easily verify its functionality using nothing but a multimeter, the series one not so much.
@@lmaoroflcopter im agree but still series for the vtec is better because make your stator run more cold.
some people verified this usin a temperature sensor directly in the coper winding.
Voltage-Characteristics over the rev range?
didnt see any readouts 🤷
by the way, getting a second solder iron @ about 50 Watts could be helpful soldering thick cables. 😉
Goes great my friend! No problems!
Thanks for your support!
@@andrewonmyway8184 Voltage goes great?
🤷 well then 🤷
@@AmbaMerlinson If i remember correctly i think i had around 14v at tickover. I did this over a year ago now and use the bike regularly. Cheers!
@@andrewonmyway8184 thank you for your answer.
lead battery final charge voltage is @ 14,4Volts.
shop manual says 14,4V,
lights on,
@ about 5000rpm.
most bike batteries die "before their time" because of never been completely charged correctly.
Good luck.