Tip for those doing this: once the final slice (5:15 mark in video) has been done, change the View mode (bottom left in Plater tab window) to Temperature. You will then see each bit of the temperature tower colored to the print temperature. This will confirm that you have done the G-code correctly.
Can you explain a little more to someone who's new? I see a box that says 3d editor view and slices that say preview, but no options to change to temperature.
@@B.Harrigan For me using latest Prusa Slicer 2.6.1 it's now in the top-left of the Plater tab in the Legend as a dropdown. It says "Feature type" by default but you can change this to "Temperature"
I just switched from s3d to prussa slicer and need to tune some filament profiles for my printers. Thanks for the clear and straight forward explanation.
Lol so true I've printed to few towers and forget to change g code back 😆 i mostly use cura but the more I watch your videos on prusa slicer makes me want to switch 🤔
Great video really liked how you explained everything. The question I had was that in between each temperature level I am getting stringing. So the levels are coming out great just get the strobing in between the gap between the levels.
still new at learning things even though i had my ender 3 v2 for about a year now.... thanks for the videos they are helping a bit though im still frustrated with it lol but its a good feeling
I've used the layer color change before but they must have added the other 2 features recently. I'll have to go check that out N..... sorry got in a hurry. Great video and learned a new feature.
Mine takes 1h 39m with a 0.6mm nozzle @60mm/s with an Ender 3 v2 equipped with dual z screws and a Hemera extruder, a layer height of 0.3 and the latest Prusa using Arachne. Thanks for this, It was very helpful.🙏👍
Thanks for the idea. I decided to do it one other way that i thought of after watching your video. I have some custom G-Code in the layer change that only generates the temp changes when the filament type is set to "Temperature Tower - 235 Start" The temp change macro is from the thingiverse site you linked, i just added the IF statement based on the idea i had after watching your video. Now i just leave this is my printer setting all the time, and when i select that filament, it generates the temp changes at the layers needed. Thanks again! ; Temp Tower Change Macro Based on Filament Preset Name {if filament_preset[0] == "Temperature Tower - 235 Start" } M104 S{235 - (layer_num-7) / 50 * 5} {if layer_num > 7} ;T tower floor {(layer_num-7) / 50 * 5 + 1}{endif} {else} {endif}
Very useful video - thank you! Could you tell me if it is possible to change the flow rate at the same time as the temperature! If yes, how this can be done with custom-g-code? Thank you in advance!
Well, once you've done it once, you can print it whenever you need to. If you have multiple printers, you can switch printers, re-center the tower, and save the G-code for each one. When you're done you'll have a G-code file per printer, and from that point on you just print the file to run a temp tower. I find the 235-to-195 tower covers the vast majority of PLA, and since I generally don't go over 235˚C on a PTFE-lined hot end, that's kind of my go-to temperature range.
Awesome video for someone new to 3D printing , thanks, is there anything in particular that I should be looking for in the tower for optimal temp for filament?
One of the greatest videos! very good job. I have a question for Prusa slicer and Ender 3 s1pro. When I add the color change the printhead extrudes a lot of filament and there is not enough time to change the filament. When I use the Add pause print the printhead stays directly above the print and I can not change the filament. Any ideas?? Can you please make a video with filament change?
great instructions. one question. as soon as i import the pla+ tower into prusaslicer i get warnings about stability issues. i'm assuming it's the overhangs, but i noticed in your video, you don't get any warnings. not sure if tha'ts just due to the newer version of prusa that is out now? i assume i should just ignore it and print it anyway?
I think that's just the newer version of PrusaSlicer warning you about those overhangs. It *probably* wants to recommend supports, but I think you can ignore the warning and print anyway.
I forgot how annoying it is to not have one auto generate. Superslicer has a calibration wizard that can automatically do this for any range of temps and even adds the numbers on too
Hey Bryan, good morning. Hope you are well and safe. I am very new to 3D Printing, so while looking for ideas and how/what to do, I came across your awesome channel and trying to learn about 3D printing. I got the Creality Ender-3 S1 Pro, and the only slicer program I have Cleality Print and creality Slicer. In this video you are showing on Prusa Slicer (I cannot remember if Creality's slicer/print base on this program or not). Can I do the same on Creality Slicer/Print, by any chance? thank you in advance.I believe our world is a Shared Experience. Remember, *_Life_* is *_Short_* so, *_Live Long_* and *_Prosper_* 🖖… Take care matey!!!
I'm not sure what im missing and it looks like I may be the first to have this issue from the video. Followed the same process for Prusa slicer for PETG and running into a issue where the temp for layer 1 starts at 235C instead of 265C. Any help would be appreciated.
Probably not. It only takes a few seconds for the nozzle to drop 5 degrees as it starts printing the next level of the tower. By the time that transitional layer is done, the nozzle is at the correct temp. Holding movement during a temperature change could lead to a blob of filament oozing out during that wait period.
Meanwhile superslicer just has the temp tower, flow tests, retraction, etc all just built in. I can't believe we still have to do extra steps in cura and prusa.
Thanks Bryan. My Prusa Slicer does not automatically show a preview after slicing. When I do the preview I do not get the + sign when looking at layers. What version of Prusa Slicer do you have? Thanks, George
Why do you use M104 instead of M109 when you do the temp changes? It's it a good idea to wait for the nozzle to heat up before doing successive sections? Does it cause problems?
Wouldn't M109 be better to be sure the hotend reached required temperature, or is the 5 degree small enough change for it to be fast enough to not matter here?
Great tutorial! Quick question though. Does anyone know the commands for retraction distance and retraction speed? I’m new to all g code and I’d like to learn these basics
4:07 you do it one layer too early (that gcode is added _before_ the layer ; it is more obvious with M109 and ie. M300 S432 P1 before the temperature change) ; also I recommend using M109 instead of M104. for the very first layers (the base), it is better to use a somewhat intermediate temperature. other cool, I didn't know about this feature of inserting gcode that way 🙂
It looks like case matters. I tried modifying but didn't use capital letters, and my preview settings didn't change temperatures. Capitalizing makes the platter preview show the Temps change, and adjust properly.
Is it sensible to scale down test prints like these if I want to determine the settings for smaller nozzle sizes? e.g. I'm dialing in a 0.2mm nozzle and would print this at roughly 50% scale at 0.08mm layer heights. or should I leave it at 100% scale?
For the life of me, I cannot get this program to show up on the printer. have tried several times. i see it on the sd card but not on the printer which is 3d pro.
![Megan Thee Stallion - Mamushi (Remix) [feat. TWICE] [Official Audio]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/5c0_u9PsrsQ/mqdefault.jpg)
Tip for those doing this: once the final slice (5:15 mark in video) has been done, change the View mode (bottom left in Plater tab window) to Temperature. You will then see each bit of the temperature tower colored to the print temperature. This will confirm that you have done the G-code correctly.
Can you explain a little more to someone who's new? I see a box that says 3d editor view and slices that say preview, but no options to change to temperature.
@@B.Harrigan For me using latest Prusa Slicer 2.6.1 it's now in the top-left of the Plater tab in the Legend as a dropdown. It says "Feature type" by default but you can change this to "Temperature"
thanks so much man@@yoduh99
Super helpful tip. Thank you.
Thank you for an excellent tip, using it right now 🙂
Great video! I am glad you are using my model. Actually it was my very first model I designed.
I really appreciate the directness of this video. No extra fluff, just the information I was hoping to get. Thumbsup
really? even on 2x I feel like it takes forever to get to the point.
You life saver I've never done one and I've had to adjust manually and just scrap prints learning haha
Straight to the point and easy to follow. Thank you.
I just switched from s3d to prussa slicer and need to tune some filament profiles for my printers. Thanks for the clear and straight forward explanation.
What a pleasant tutorial. Excellent timing and clarity of instruction. Are/were you ever a teacher?! This is awesome. Subbed
Totally agree:D
I always come back to set the temp towers for other printers. Thanks for the video.
Great vid, I like the conciseness. The process has gotten a lot easier than it was last time I did a temp test!
NIcely presented and easy to follow. Thank you.
thank you for a clear simple way to do the temperature tower is Prusa Slicer
Perfect! Straight to the point and just what I needed :)
THANK YOU FOR MAKING THIS VIDEO
This video was exactly what I was looking for. Thank you!!
Thank you for this very clear and easy to understand
THANK YOU!!!!!! This is EXACTLY what I needed to know!
You're welcome. I'm glad this helped!
Lol so true I've printed to few towers and forget to change g code back 😆 i mostly use cura but the more I watch your videos on prusa slicer makes me want to switch 🤔
Great video really liked how you explained everything. The question I had was that in between each temperature level I am getting stringing. So the levels are coming out great just get the strobing in between the gap between the levels.
I like a lot things about prusa slicer, but like the convenient features you get with plugins in cura.
very helpful thanks. I'll be writing it on the side of the spool myself.
Perfect, brief and very helpful. Thanks!
I've installed orca-slicer because it has this scripted... but orca slicer failed to start (core dumped)
That brought me to you...
Subscribed!
Thanks, this was super helpful. Let me pick the tower of my choosing and nozzle size of my choice.
Thanks! Great way to make a temp tower.
still new at learning things even though i had my ender 3 v2 for about a year now.... thanks for the videos they are helping a bit though im still frustrated with it lol but its a good feeling
Thank you for this. Great explanation.
Super handy video thank you BB3D
I've used the layer color change before but they must have added the other 2 features recently. I'll have to go check that out N..... sorry got in a hurry. Great video and learned a new feature.
Thank you!
Mine takes 1h 39m with a 0.6mm nozzle @60mm/s with an Ender 3 v2 equipped with dual z screws and a Hemera extruder, a layer height of 0.3 and the latest Prusa using Arachne. Thanks for this, It was very helpful.🙏👍
Very helpful, thank you!!
Thanks for the idea. I decided to do it one other way that i thought of after watching your video. I have some custom G-Code in the layer change that only generates the temp changes when the filament type is set to "Temperature Tower - 235 Start" The temp change macro is from the thingiverse site you linked, i just added the IF statement based on the idea i had after watching your video. Now i just leave this is my printer setting all the time, and when i select that filament, it generates the temp changes at the layers needed. Thanks again!
; Temp Tower Change Macro Based on Filament Preset Name
{if filament_preset[0] == "Temperature Tower - 235 Start" } M104 S{235 - (layer_num-7) / 50 * 5} {if layer_num > 7} ;T tower floor {(layer_num-7) / 50 * 5 + 1}{endif} {else} {endif}
I just did this on a Cura based slicer two days ago. This is WAY easier!
Very useful video - thank you! Could you tell me if it is possible to change the flow rate at the same time as the temperature! If yes, how this can be done with custom-g-code? Thank you in advance!
Had no idea this was so easy now.
Fantastic video, thank-you for this tutorial.
amazing video, right to the point an informative. you have helped me out a lot.
Thanks for this video.
Thank you! Very helpful
thank you!!! Huge Help!!
Great video, thank you!
Thanks for this video. Can you do a video on how to do this in Cura, if that is possible?
Thanks a lot from Lake Garda Italy
That looks pretty convenient! But still feels like a machine's work done manually ;)
Well, once you've done it once, you can print it whenever you need to. If you have multiple printers, you can switch printers, re-center the tower, and save the G-code for each one. When you're done you'll have a G-code file per printer, and from that point on you just print the file to run a temp tower. I find the 235-to-195 tower covers the vast majority of PLA, and since I generally don't go over 235˚C on a PTFE-lined hot end, that's kind of my go-to temperature range.
Awesome video for someone new to 3D printing , thanks, is there anything in particular that I should be looking for in the tower for optimal temp for filament?
Thanks.
You're welcome!
this was great.
Great Video..! , really simple and to the Point
Awesome, I was looking for something like This. No need to look further..! Thank you for sharing 😎best
Thank you.
Thanks, very helpful
One of the greatest videos! very good job. I have a question for Prusa slicer and Ender 3 s1pro. When I add the color change the printhead extrudes a lot of filament and there is not enough time to change the filament. When I use the Add pause print the printhead stays directly above the print and I can not change the filament. Any ideas?? Can you please make a video with filament change?
Magic - thanks
very cool and helpful.thanks
Thanks fro the video. It's realy helpful)))
great instructions. one question. as soon as i import the pla+ tower into prusaslicer i get warnings about stability issues. i'm assuming it's the overhangs, but i noticed in your video, you don't get any warnings. not sure if tha'ts just due to the newer version of prusa that is out now? i assume i should just ignore it and print it anyway?
I think that's just the newer version of PrusaSlicer warning you about those overhangs. It *probably* wants to recommend supports, but I think you can ignore the warning and print anyway.
@@BV3D thanks! yeah i've learned to sort of just judge whether it's making sense or not.
what do i do if the gcode doesnt transfer to my printer?
I forgot how annoying it is to not have one auto generate. Superslicer has a calibration wizard that can automatically do this for any range of temps and even adds the numbers on too
thank you very much.
Using 2.7.3 you need to add a return after typing the G-code. The slider then shows a G marker on the layer you have added the code.
Hey Bryan, good morning. Hope you are well and safe. I am very new to 3D Printing, so while looking for ideas and how/what to do, I came across your awesome channel and trying to learn about 3D printing. I got the Creality Ender-3 S1 Pro, and the only slicer program I have Cleality Print and creality Slicer. In this video you are showing on Prusa Slicer (I cannot remember if Creality's slicer/print base on this program or not). Can I do the same on Creality Slicer/Print, by any chance?
thank you in advance.I believe our world is a Shared Experience. Remember, *_Life_* is *_Short_* so, *_Live Long_* and *_Prosper_* 🖖… Take care matey!!!
I'm not sure what im missing and it looks like I may be the first to have this issue from the video. Followed the same process for Prusa slicer for PETG and running into a issue where the temp for layer 1 starts at 235C instead of 265C. Any help would be appreciated.
May need to test on my printer
I guess my printer forgot to change temps! I followed your instructions to the T. Had to manually change temp between each section.
wouldnt this be better with a m109 code holding the movement till the temp drops?
Probably not. It only takes a few seconds for the nozzle to drop 5 degrees as it starts printing the next level of the tower. By the time that transitional layer is done, the nozzle is at the correct temp. Holding movement during a temperature change could lead to a blob of filament oozing out during that wait period.
Meanwhile superslicer just has the temp tower, flow tests, retraction, etc all just built in.
I can't believe we still have to do extra steps in cura and prusa.
Thanks Bryan. My Prusa Slicer does not automatically show a preview after slicing. When I do the preview I do not get the + sign when looking at layers. What version of Prusa Slicer do you have? Thanks, George
Why do you use M104 instead of M109 when you do the temp changes? It's it a good idea to wait for the nozzle to heat up before doing successive sections? Does it cause problems?
Can a retraction tower be created in a similar in prusa?
and what are we looking for on the print to pick the right temperature?
Wouldn't M109 be better to be sure the hotend reached required temperature, or is the 5 degree small enough change for it to be fast enough to not matter here?
Agreed, M109 will wait for the temp to reach the set temp. Using the R option means it will wait while cooling as well.
Great tutorial! Quick question though. Does anyone know the commands for retraction distance and retraction speed? I’m new to all g code and I’d like to learn these basics
4:07 you do it one layer too early (that gcode is added _before_ the layer ; it is more obvious with M109 and ie. M300 S432 P1 before the temperature change) ; also I recommend using M109 instead of M104. for the very first layers (the base), it is better to use a somewhat intermediate temperature. other cool, I didn't know about this feature of inserting gcode that way 🙂
Can you do this also for Retraction in Prusa ?
hey bv3d how do i stop my voxelab 3d print beeping i changer out the thermister
It looks like case matters. I tried modifying but didn't use capital letters, and my preview settings didn't change temperatures. Capitalizing makes the platter preview show the Temps change, and adjust properly.
Is it sensible to scale down test prints like these if I want to determine the settings for smaller nozzle sizes?
e.g. I'm dialing in a 0.2mm nozzle and would print this at roughly 50% scale at 0.08mm layer heights.
or should I leave it at 100% scale?
What is the gcode command for retraction tower?
лайк как всегда!топ! respect bro
couldn't watch the video, had to run off and go get coffee... LOLOOOOLL It's the shirts fault!
For the life of me, I cannot get this program to show up on the printer. have tried several times. i see it on the sd card but not on the printer which is 3d pro.
it's ctrl right click on the + sign
I want to like PrusaSlicer, but this is _so_ much more work than Cura with the Calibration Shapes plugin…
funfact, i used m104 s230 not M104 S230 - it does matter boys
You also made Fun Fact a single word 😅 thanks for the heads up; that's good info.
KMAO bin there done that .....
this is not easy but at last it can be done
Prusa > Cura
THANK YOU!!!!