It's great that someone with your credentials on yt finally speak about the huge benefits of rest times. Jan Mrazek wrote about this a LOT 2 years ago on his blog including a guide using uv tools, and the fact this is still unknown to most people is crazy. Rest times are the best thing people can do to improve their printing. It allows us to use bottom exposure of 1.5-3x of normal layers, removes elephant foot, layer separation, blooming, makes the resin bonds stronger which also allows us to use small supports, etc.
I couldn't agree more. I learned so much from Jan, especially on this matter. I have tiny supports and none of that BS 30 secs bottom layers. As for Light Off Delay I have an older version of CTB and I think it doesn't work like Denny's newer version? I think it really just works as "rest time before exposure" which is all I need. I have it set to 3-4 secs and it definitely just rests for that amount of time before the next exposure. Aslo, if I print overnight, I raise that to 10-15 sec my thinking being that it gives the LCD screen time to cool down in between exposures which might prolong it's life span a bit. I recall someone mentioning somewhere that the UV light is ALWAYS on and the screen exposure time is what let's the light through in which case a longer rest time would fry the screen more as it would be baked all the time by the light. But I am pretty sure my old Anycubic Mono 4K only turns on the UV as needed for each exposure. Think I tested that a year or so ago, but might have to check again. The LCDs for my printer are not that easy to get a hold off.
Great video, thanks for sharing your knowledge. I really wish more people saw your videos. At least we now have a video to link to when people ask about rest times or how to fix blooming issues.
Great video, friend, it's amazing that it seems that you are the first person to actually make a RUclips video about this very important topic that shows it so clearly! The bubble at the top is mainly because of two things - 1. The build plate is VERY well trammed (aka "levelled") and 2. The retract speed is too high and possibly 3. The lift height is high enough that the top of the prints are coming out of the resin before retracting again. Using 3 seconds of wait before print on regular layers also helps with this, but it seems one needs to use a slicer that lets one control separate bottom layer and regular layer wait times to do this (like Voxeldance Tango slicer, or Formware3D slicer, for example. Lychee and Shitubox can't).
I agree, I do videos on resin printing, it was a topic I was thinking of delving into, but I am good now, I will just point my viewers this way, but I think they might find it on their own.
@@IPrint3dMinis All youtubers should learn about this and talk about it and put pressure on slicer makers (Lychee and chitubox) to implement wait times properly. The fact we need uv tools (if using chitubox or lychee for example) to make this work is ridiculous. Wait times solve most fails that people are having. Look up also Honza Mrazek's resin printing blog, which is probably the best resource for this we have at the moment.
Thanks so much. This is the aspect of resin printing I have been avoiding mostly due to having had spent so much time doing this stuff in fdm. I found resin prints just came out great. But with your videos, I now feel like it is time to delve deeper into my settings to get those perfect prints. Cheers
I think the one thing that has made the most difference in my 3D printing success was learning how to set up UVTools to set wait time before and after cure automatically, based on the plate's proximity to the FEP and on the size of each layers cross-section. So that any time I have big flat surfaces plunging into and out of the resin, extra time is automatically added to account for resin being squeezed out of the way. I'm pretty sure it's the reason I've never had bed adhesion problems, and am able to run base layer exposures much lower than what most people recommend without issues.
@@thedorklylionchannel415 Look up Honza Mrazek Step by step guide to perfect bed adhesion in uv tools, you'll find a guide and also a ton of knowledge.
@@thedorklylionchannel415 Look up Jan Mrazek's blog "mind.dump()", and then search his entries for the ones about UVTools. You'll find step-by-step instructions on setting it up. It's a bit complicated to explain, and I don't even fully understand all the numbers, but I just followed his directions and it's worked perfectly for me ever since. Tons of other good 3D printing info on that blog as well.
Been only resin printing since november '23, with a cheap Geeetech Alkaid and Geeetech resin, and have never experienced the bubbles on top of my prints on any print i've done.
Nice! I’ve seen people saying rest time before retract and before lift is pointless, and rest after retract is the only one that matters. How often do you use rest time before retract and lift?
Hi Dennys, This was really helpful!!! I liked and subscribed!! I am looking for a slycer with dedicated/variable exposure time for supports, so we can cure them longer and keep the details in the model. Is there such a thing available? I heard Lychee has a variable layer height exposure, which would be already of some help... can you help?
@@wangdennys Hey!! cheers, love your content. I have the Elegoo Mars 4K Ultra. Are you implying that Lychee has variable layer height exposure? I am going to test and write to Elegoo. I will write you an email, cause I need some consulting from you. thanks.
As far as I understand it is possible to only use one type of waiting mode. So if i decide to use rest settings i cant use light off delay option. Am I right?
Light off delay should be based on the resin itself as well as the printer. A lot of folks don't even use this setting and get bad prints. The resin for the setting is due to resins needing more time to flow back after the build plate comes down, I personally use light off for .5 seconds on my materials currently and that works fine there. I have not had to change that in a while now, but I stick with resins and machines that are designed to work with each other. Often times the major issue is that folks are using resins not made for the specific line of machines. I am not saying you cannot do this, as I have experimented with other brands, but my best results usually occur with what I work with most, Otherwise tuning is needed etc. For example 1 resin I tested last week required slower speeds and a longer light off delay, and comparing the viscosity of both resins I questioned why, as the new one actually flowed better than the material I use most commonly, but the light-off needed 1 second longer to ensure quality prints. I spoke with the company about it and essentially it was for flow issues as sometimes the better flowing material can get squeezed out from under the build plate, and you get pockets underneath (tiny ones) that are essentially like an air bubble, the 1.5 seconds helps the resin flow back to the spots it is needed, I guess regardless if the resin is thicker or thinner always check the manufacturer and ensure your settings are tested with something small first. Nice video here, thanks for sharing as always.
@@wangdennys build plate is perfectly leveled , could i contact you somewhere like discord or anything for the issue? i have heard for the compensation settings before but i dont know how to start testing it and what to change i dont mind testing i use my printer for professional use (im a dental tech) and you would really save me from alot of handwork if i fixed that issue
You are a wealth of knowledge, I can tell your videos are well made with one caveat. your mic quality is terrible, it undermines otherwise helpful expertise and the subtitles arent super accurate and im the only one here that seems to have a hearing impairment.\ Please please please If i could bug you for a moment. Could you respond with a simple math formula that depicts your thesis of what light off delay is?
The M3 line had tons of issues, think the new firmware actually fixed this. I use Lychee so I am not sure. I know Chitubox and Anycubic sometimes don't play well, you could try exporting the STL and importing into the newer Photon workshop that will probably work as a decent work-around..
@@wangdennys thanks for the reply, I am not touching photon workshop. I am happy with using chitubox lightoffdelay as rest after retract, works great, especially with your way of orienting and supporting the prints, I have a ton of success.
It's great that someone with your credentials on yt finally speak about the huge benefits of rest times. Jan Mrazek wrote about this a LOT 2 years ago on his blog including a guide using uv tools, and the fact this is still unknown to most people is crazy. Rest times are the best thing people can do to improve their printing. It allows us to use bottom exposure of 1.5-3x of normal layers, removes elephant foot, layer separation, blooming, makes the resin bonds stronger which also allows us to use small supports, etc.
I couldn't agree more. I learned so much from Jan, especially on this matter. I have tiny supports and none of that BS 30 secs bottom layers.
As for Light Off Delay I have an older version of CTB and I think it doesn't work like Denny's newer version? I think it really just works as "rest time before exposure" which is all I need. I have it set to 3-4 secs and it definitely just rests for that amount of time before the next exposure.
Aslo, if I print overnight, I raise that to 10-15 sec my thinking being that it gives the LCD screen time to cool down in between exposures which might prolong it's life span a bit.
I recall someone mentioning somewhere that the UV light is ALWAYS on and the screen exposure time is what let's the light through in which case a longer rest time would fry the screen more as it would be baked all the time by the light. But I am pretty sure my old Anycubic Mono 4K only turns on the UV as needed for each exposure. Think I tested that a year or so ago, but might have to check again. The LCDs for my printer are not that easy to get a hold off.
thanks for this information, ive been printing for years and this is the first time this has been explained to me this well.
Love it when you break this stuff down! Thanks for the videos!
Great video, thanks for sharing your knowledge. I really wish more people saw your videos. At least we now have a video to link to when people ask about rest times or how to fix blooming issues.
Thank you very much!, you have just solved a problem that I was dragging. Your videos are always very useful.
Great video, friend, it's amazing that it seems that you are the first person to actually make a RUclips video about this very important topic that shows it so clearly!
The bubble at the top is mainly because of two things - 1. The build plate is VERY well trammed (aka "levelled") and 2. The retract speed is too high and possibly 3. The lift height is high enough that the top of the prints are coming out of the resin before retracting again.
Using 3 seconds of wait before print on regular layers also helps with this, but it seems one needs to use a slicer that lets one control separate bottom layer and regular layer wait times to do this (like Voxeldance Tango slicer, or Formware3D slicer, for example. Lychee and Shitubox can't).
I agree, I do videos on resin printing, it was a topic I was thinking of delving into, but I am good now, I will just point my viewers this way, but I think they might find it on their own.
@@IPrint3dMinis All youtubers should learn about this and talk about it and put pressure on slicer makers (Lychee and chitubox) to implement wait times properly. The fact we need uv tools (if using chitubox or lychee for example) to make this work is ridiculous. Wait times solve most fails that people are having.
Look up also Honza Mrazek's resin printing blog, which is probably the best resource for this we have at the moment.
Thank you
@@IPrint3dMinis thank you
Thanks so much. This is the aspect of resin printing I have been avoiding mostly due to having had spent so much time doing this stuff in fdm. I found resin prints just came out great. But with your videos, I now feel like it is time to delve deeper into my settings to get those perfect prints. Cheers
Now.. how do we ignore this to speed things up but not fail :P
Fine tune your setting.
And depends on your resin.
COOL😀 encore une fois je comprends pourquoi j ai des échec🤯 merci pour toutes ces infos qu ils nous faut 💯❤👍👏👏👏vivement le prochain !!!
Thanks for the great video! Very useful
YES DOOD!!!! Stepping up your game! Dennys lets gooooooo
Hopefully i can keep it up
Really good editing I hope you are in good health friend! Good Video.
I think the one thing that has made the most difference in my 3D printing success was learning how to set up UVTools to set wait time before and after cure automatically, based on the plate's proximity to the FEP and on the size of each layers cross-section. So that any time I have big flat surfaces plunging into and out of the resin, extra time is automatically added to account for resin being squeezed out of the way. I'm pretty sure it's the reason I've never had bed adhesion problems, and am able to run base layer exposures much lower than what most people recommend without issues.
How do you do that?
@@thedorklylionchannel415 Look up Honza Mrazek Step by step guide to perfect bed adhesion in uv tools, you'll find a guide and also a ton of knowledge.
@@thedorklylionchannel415 Look up Jan Mrazek's blog "mind.dump()", and then search his entries for the ones about UVTools. You'll find step-by-step instructions on setting it up. It's a bit complicated to explain, and I don't even fully understand all the numbers, but I just followed his directions and it's worked perfectly for me ever since.
Tons of other good 3D printing info on that blog as well.
Thank you .....
What's your theory on bubbles in resin printing?
Been only resin printing since november '23, with a cheap Geeetech Alkaid and Geeetech resin, and have never experienced the bubbles on top of my prints on any print i've done.
Nice! I’ve seen people saying rest time before retract and before lift is pointless, and rest after retract is the only one that matters. How often do you use rest time before retract and lift?
Always
@@wangdennys How many seconds? I use 2 seconds for rest after retract but I'm wondering how much rest before lift and rest before retract needs.
@@brendon6930 i have explain everything in the video
Great video Dennys! Well explained as always! Do you mind sharing the actual settings you use for Phrozen Sonic Mini 8KS?
Hi thx for the video, what is in your opinion best resin printer for fine details and small types?
Cool ty
спасибо!
Hi Dennys, This was really helpful!!! I liked and subscribed!! I am looking for a slycer with dedicated/variable exposure time for supports, so we can cure them longer and keep the details in the model. Is there such a thing available? I heard Lychee has a variable layer height exposure, which would be already of some help... can you help?
The issue is it may not compatible with the printer.
The only way to find out is test it.
@@wangdennys Hey!! cheers, love your content. I have the Elegoo Mars 4K Ultra. Are you implying that Lychee has variable layer height exposure? I am going to test and write to Elegoo. I will write you an email, cause I need some consulting from you. thanks.
As far as I understand it is possible to only use one type of waiting mode. So if i decide to use rest settings i cant use light off delay option. Am I right?
Light off delay should be based on the resin itself as well as the printer. A lot of folks don't even use this setting and get bad prints. The resin for the setting is due to resins needing more time to flow back after the build plate comes down, I personally use light off for .5 seconds on my materials currently and that works fine there. I have not had to change that in a while now, but I stick with resins and machines that are designed to work with each other. Often times the major issue is that folks are using resins not made for the specific line of machines. I am not saying you cannot do this, as I have experimented with other brands, but my best results usually occur with what I work with most, Otherwise tuning is needed etc. For example 1 resin I tested last week required slower speeds and a longer light off delay, and comparing the viscosity of both resins I questioned why, as the new one actually flowed better than the material I use most commonly, but the light-off needed 1 second longer to ensure quality prints. I spoke with the company about it and essentially it was for flow issues as sometimes the better flowing material can get squeezed out from under the build plate, and you get pockets underneath (tiny ones) that are essentially like an air bubble, the 1.5 seconds helps the resin flow back to the spots it is needed, I guess regardless if the resin is thicker or thinner always check the manufacturer and ensure your settings are tested with something small first. Nice video here, thanks for sharing as always.
how can i remove the "elephant foot" completly without using supports or base?
Have a good build plate leveling so you can use low bottom exposure.
Or use chitubox compensation setting which might require several tests.
@@wangdennys build plate is perfectly leveled , could i contact you somewhere like discord or anything for the issue? i have heard for the compensation settings before but i dont know how to start testing it and what to change
i dont mind testing i use my printer for professional use (im a dental tech) and you would really save me from alot of handwork if i fixed that issue
can anyone confirm that lychee does not have rest time feature? or is it named something else? is it print time override?
Depends on the printer
You are a wealth of knowledge, I can tell your videos are well made with one caveat.
your mic quality is terrible, it undermines otherwise helpful expertise and the subtitles arent super accurate and im the only one here that seems to have a hearing impairment.\
Please please please If i could bug you for a moment. Could you respond with a simple math formula that depicts your thesis of what light off delay is?
Mic is terrible?
I see noted.
I will check my mic again.
Unless you have an anycubic m3 premium, where rest time does nothing and light off delay works like rest after retract, 😢.
is this still an issue with latest firmware? i hadn't noticed it, have to check now
The M3 line had tons of issues, think the new firmware actually fixed this. I use Lychee so I am not sure. I know Chitubox and Anycubic sometimes don't play well, you could try exporting the STL and importing into the newer Photon workshop that will probably work as a decent work-around..
Have you tried it on photonworkshop?
@@IPrint3dMinis the regular M5 printer aren't any better
@@wangdennys thanks for the reply, I am not touching photon workshop. I am happy with using chitubox lightoffdelay as rest after retract, works great, especially with your way of orienting and supporting the prints, I have a ton of success.