Curious why you wouldn't want the ptex to run rather than drip? I always figured you wanted to let it continuously run while applying, almost like welding.
2 reasons. 1) You end up having to hold the p-tex stik closer to the base and therefore heat the base material up better resulting a better bond. 2) Since the p-tex stick is closer to the base, it burns with less carbon build-up.
@@TheHELMski I get that, you talked about it dripping in. Why not hold it to the height where it continuously lays down without the build-up? Like welding, you don't drop welds on, you continuously lay a stream down.
@@kevind3063 if you run it in continuously you do not give the base enough time to heat up from the ptex stick. if you drip it in, each segment you drip in has been heated a bit before the ptex hits the base. also, i understand the welding analogy but it doesnt really matter how it looks because youre going to scrape it, grind it and wax it after anyway.
how important is fixing those scratches/holes? Will I notice them while riding? My new board (jones flagship) already has a hole/scratch (not too big tho) and I dont know if I should already fix it or just keep it.
In your video you talk about building up the p-Tex for deeper holes or scrapes. When I do that it always cracks when it cools. Is there a way to build up the p-Tex with out it cracking? That is, without using a p-Tex gun?
One way is to drip in the p-tex then quickly press it down with a metal scraper, Press hard. Make sure you have a thick glove on your hand so you don't burn it!
@@TheHELMski hello, I really appreciate your video. Do you know what is responsible of the cracking (I'm french I would call it bubbling) ? Sometimes I think it's caused by water stuck inside, but I don't really know. Thx
@@trolldesmontagnes8426 As the ptex cools, it contracts. The cracks are the result of thermal stresses. To reduce the likelihood of the repair cracking you can try the following. 1.) Heat the base with a hairdryer, before the repair. 2.) Apply and mold the ptex using a soldering iron.
Yes. it won't stick it it's put on over wax. Use a citrus base cleaner and a texture pad, let the chemical do the work! Let the cleaner dry for 30 min before melting in the ptex candle.
how long does it take to cool down? nobody wants to say, every video just says cool down. Be specific man, am I safe with 10 minutes, 15 minutes what? don't be afraid to give us a range.
It means lay down the Ptex, switch to the other ski, go have a beer, and you should be good. If you touch the ptex area, it should not be any warmer than when you wax
@@powdaskier1 still can't say a time can you? its like you are afraid the IRS will come after you, or lightening will strike you. lol grow some balls and commit my friend say: yes young grass hopper, its 7 minutes and 33 seconds... :D
Unfortunately this video show almost all the things you do not want to do. Not sure but I assume this is not a professional shop which makes it understandable. Applying p-tex when it is on fire, not pre-heating the base, scraping i stad of using a panzerfile, scraping the wrong way. The list goes on :/ But as a quick and dirty fix it will hold up a few days and get you through the holiday at least.
WOW. I can't believe how many things he got wrong in doing such a simple task as ptexing a ski or snowboard in that amount of time. This is why we laugh at your job in the backshop. Easiest thing I'll say don't ever allow a yellow flame.
A small repair can be done in either or both directions. The effect is insignificant. Holes need to be filled primarily to prevent water from getting into the core of the ski more than to decrease friction.
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Bro...Bob Ross of P-Tex. Thanks, Gary!
I watched many vids on this topic. Well done. Thank you
Thanks Gary. Nice refresher after having not done this in years.
wow and he did it all with his eyes closed!
snowboardingking8 holy shit you are right.
Lmao!!
stoner life aint easy
:D:D:D:D:D:D
@@captieye uýaie
Thanks for the tips I’m just getting into repairing my own snowboards yew! 🤙🏼
Glad you liked it.
Thanks for sharing🎉
Nicely done vid!
Very informative, thanks!
very educational for what I am about to do to my board
Try gently blowing on the flame to control the burn to a small blue flame.
Thanks for the video! Very helpful
i have a problem when i scrape it with a metal scraper i get bunch of tiny scrarthes
Have you made sure that your scraper has smooth. Usually filing your scraper with a mill bastard file will sharpen it and made it smooth enough.
Curious why you wouldn't want the ptex to run rather than drip? I always figured you wanted to let it continuously run while applying, almost like welding.
2 reasons. 1) You end up having to hold the p-tex stik closer to the base and therefore heat the base material up better resulting a better bond. 2) Since the p-tex stick is closer to the base, it burns with less carbon build-up.
@@TheHELMski I get that, you talked about it dripping in. Why not hold it to the height where it continuously lays down without the build-up? Like welding, you don't drop welds on, you continuously lay a stream down.
@@kevind3063 if you run it in continuously you do not give the base enough time to heat up from the ptex stick. if you drip it in, each segment you drip in has been heated a bit before the ptex hits the base. also, i understand the welding analogy but it doesnt really matter how it looks because youre going to scrape it, grind it and wax it after anyway.
how important is fixing those scratches/holes? Will I notice them while riding?
My new board (jones flagship) already has a hole/scratch (not too big tho) and I dont know if I should already fix it or just keep it.
Depends on how deep they are.
Nice
In your video you talk about building up the p-Tex for deeper holes or scrapes. When I do that it always cracks when it cools. Is there a way to build up the p-Tex with out it cracking? That is, without using a p-Tex gun?
One way is to drip in the p-tex then quickly press it down with a metal scraper, Press hard. Make sure you have a thick glove on your hand so you don't burn it!
@@TheHELMski hello, I really appreciate your video. Do you know what is responsible of the cracking (I'm french I would call it bubbling) ? Sometimes I think it's caused by water stuck inside, but I don't really know. Thx
@@trolldesmontagnes8426 As the ptex cools, it contracts. The cracks are the result of thermal stresses.
To reduce the likelihood of the repair cracking you can try the following.
1.) Heat the base with a hairdryer, before the repair.
2.) Apply and mold the ptex using a soldering iron.
I don’t know everything and would love to hear your technique.
Do you have to remove the wax prior? How can I tell how much wax is still on it?
Yes. it won't stick it it's put on over wax. Use a citrus base cleaner and a texture pad, let the chemical do the work! Let the cleaner dry for 30 min before melting in the ptex candle.
Does it matter if it is a nordic or Alpine ski?
Nope, not at all. Sintered vs extruded base is the only factor.
This is a legitimate question, do those small scratches need ptex repairing? I usually wax over small scratches. Thank you for the video
Not really, the small ones can be covered with wax or at a shop they will take them out with a tune up
yeah, those scratches were pretty superficial. i save ptex for bigger gashes.
Great video! I would put 150 grit sandpaper on block of wood then sandpaper with water to even out the base.
I really don't know, I've never tried that.
how long do you let the PTEX dry before you scrap it off?
Chris Shoff until it is not hot any more, like 10-20 min
Why cannot these sticks be fed through the heat glue gun?
They make p-tex guns. They are the right temperature and the tip is shaped to help spread the p-tex into the damaged area.
Generally glue guns are not hot enough. There are extrusion guns made specifically for p-tex. They cost around $200.
that material must be melt not burned.
Bro. you must also weld.... Those are stacked dimes !!!!
Great video! Thank you
Teras alc utrlk 180889 aso
YEEEAH
Is this what is called a P-Tex candle or is this just a stick of raw P-Tex?
p-tex candle
Sure enough that ptex on the skin, burns, blisters and eventually leaves a pocket where your epidermis remembers covering
Les tiges plus fines font moins de charbon
How would you fix a chip on the top of the skies?
Kaloyan Bankov I would put some 2 part epoxy in it.
Why would you need to? The reasoning for cleaning up the bases is to help the ski slide better, really no point in making the tops pretty
You don’t want it getting worse and seperating. This could cause moisture to get into the ski and ruin it.
I won't tell you how to get a clean burn with no carbon build up...its your video
David Hawkins thank you!
Gse
how long does it take to cool down? nobody wants to say, every video just says cool down. Be specific man, am I safe with 10 minutes, 15 minutes what? don't be afraid to give us a range.
It means lay down the Ptex, switch to the other ski, go have a beer, and you should be good. If you touch the ptex area, it should not be any warmer than when you wax
@@powdaskier1 still can't say a time can you? its like you are afraid the IRS will come after you, or lightening will strike you. lol grow some balls and commit my friend say: yes young grass hopper, its 7 minutes and 33 seconds... :D
@@31acruz 1 hour
Lol, use common sense.
let it rest no more than 1 minute
Unfortunately this video show almost all the things you do not want to do. Not sure but I assume this is not a professional shop which makes it understandable.
Applying p-tex when it is on fire, not pre-heating the base, scraping i stad of using a panzerfile, scraping the wrong way. The list goes on :/
But as a quick and dirty fix it will hold up a few days and get you through the holiday at least.
Twb
WOW. I can't believe how many things he got wrong in doing such a simple task as ptexing a ski or snowboard in that amount of time. This is why we laugh at your job in the backshop. Easiest thing I'll say don't ever allow a yellow flame.
Umm yeah... And you do this for a living? Wow...
TIP TO TAIL BUD. TIP TO TAIL SCRAPING! Gosh, this made me cringe so hard. It was all good until you scraped the ski. Regardless, good video.
Noah Graff it doesnt matter tho, he is going to wax the ski afterwards, only then is it important tho scrape tip to tail
A small repair can be done in either or both directions. The effect is insignificant. Holes need to be filled primarily to prevent water from getting into the core of the ski more than to decrease friction.
Mythology