I am a long term owner of a Kawasaki GT750 P5. I watched this video yesterday as a refresh before checking the shims on my bike. I enjoyed the video but would offer the following comments: 1) The coils have to be unbolted, but not necessarily disconnected from the wiring loom. I clip mine up on the frame tube out of the way, still connected to the wiring loom. 2) If the shims need changing I cable tie the camshaft sprockets to the camchain, remove the cam caps, and let the cam ride up sufficiently to get at the buckets. Always check the valve timing afterwards to make sure that everything is still ok. I enjoyed the video
Hi Neal. Thanks for watching and for the tips. Hopefully someone else watching this video in the future can put them to use. Glad to hear the you enjoyed watching 👍
Brilliant- always dodged doing this but changed a few head-gaskets in my time- Too much hit and miss maths and the price of shims- but your video explains it very clearly. Thanks
Thanks Patrick. This was the first time we’ve done this bucket and shim type of thing. I’d been told it was a nightmare but actually it wasn’t too bad in the end. We just went slow and steady 👍
I wish I had watched this before I tackled my 85 ZN700. I pulled the carbs because I thought the tensioner had to come out completely. Thanks so much for this video.
Gr8 video chaps. I am not sure if I agree with the marking the chain and sprockets approach to keeping he cams in time. How can you be sure the slack chain did not jump a tooth or two on the crank sprocket. Always and I mean ALWAYS check the timing marks before hitting the start button :)
Great video guys. I am going to try and attempt this on my 1983 Kawasaki Spectre 1100. Im sure the procedure is the same just on a bigger engine. I have the service manual for all the specs.
Checked my valves yesterday after watching your video. #4 inlet valve reads "0" too! All other valves are within tolerances. Where did you start getting #4 within the specs?
I seem to think we switched it out for another shim and manually turned the engine over a few times. Re-measured and then re-shimmed it. I think the valve was slightly sticking
Hi, great vid mate! Did you by any chance get oil appearing on the top of your cylinder head fins, either side of your cylinder 1 and 4 spark plugs after you'd ridden it for a few days? The outer 4 bolts on the cam cover should have thread lock on them but it wasn't mentioned in the video so I don't know if you did it. These 4 bolts threads are open and oil works past the threads and eventually pools on the top fins, ask me how I know!
Ha, I won’t ask 😁 I don’t actually remember now if I did put thread lock on. Whatever I did it would have been from the Haynes manual. As it happens I haven’t had any oil leakage at all - so perhaps I did! 🤷🏼♂️
Uhm... possibly, not sure if/when they changed it. Everything I’ve done on the bike has come from the ‘Kawasaki 750 aircooled fours’ Haynes manual. It seems to cover everything I need 😁
Hey! The only difference here is that the baffles have been removed from the ends of each exhaust can. It was done before I bought the bike, but I think the original end baffles are just riveted in 👍
They had them already at the workshop, and they were kind enough to let me raid them so I never had to look elsewhere thankfully. There don’t seem to be too many available online but I think amazon have some, or I guess you could ask your local bike garage where they get theirs from.
bought a new one for courier work in 1982..gold..I remember it was 2100 gbp..loved that bike
Workhorse of a bike, had a gold one in '85, enjoyed it more than my nearly new Kawa.750 turbo and it was a treat too.
I am a long term owner of a Kawasaki GT750 P5. I watched this video yesterday as a refresh before checking the shims on my bike. I enjoyed the video but would offer the following comments:
1) The coils have to be unbolted, but not necessarily disconnected from the wiring loom. I clip mine up on the frame tube out of the way, still connected to the wiring loom.
2) If the shims need changing I cable tie the camshaft sprockets to the camchain, remove the cam caps, and let the cam ride up sufficiently to get at the buckets. Always check the valve timing afterwards to make sure that everything is still ok.
I enjoyed the video
Hi Neal. Thanks for watching and for the tips. Hopefully someone else watching this video in the future can put them to use. Glad to hear the you enjoyed watching 👍
And make sure the chain doesn't slip on the crankshaft.
That’s a really good idea using cardboard to have a plan of where to put your bolts👍🏍
I have a zn700 1984 just took the valve cover off and this video has saved me tremendously
Awesome! Glad to hear it helped 👍👍
So my question is how do I go about measuring if valve clearence is way to tight to fit the lowest recommended feeler gauge.
Brilliant- always dodged doing this but changed a few head-gaskets in my time- Too much hit and miss maths and the price of shims- but your video explains it very clearly. Thanks
Thanks Patrick. This was the first time we’ve done this bucket and shim type of thing. I’d been told it was a nightmare but actually it wasn’t too bad in the end. We just went slow and steady 👍
I wish I had watched this before I tackled my 85 ZN700. I pulled the carbs because I thought the tensioner had to come out completely. Thanks so much for this video.
Hey, no worries. Thanks for watching. Hope it was helpful for you in the end 👍
@@MechitBetter I posted the link on the kawasakimotorcycle.org site so it can help others. Thanks again!
Cheers! Much appreciated 😀
These bikes are much sought after,classic,and becoming as rare as rocking horse shit. Wish I hadn't sold mine back along.
Rarity is sometimes a curse. Mine is stuck in the garage because I can’t find parts for it. Still… it was a great bike when it worked 🤣
Thanks for these series on the Kawasaki ! Definitely will buy you a brew later in the day !
Thanks 👍 love the old Kawasaki. It’s taken me all over, and will be off on tour again in a few weeks time. Is it a GT750 you have?
@@MechitBetter
I have a 1993 same colour as yours. Mine is mint 25k bike. 😁. Just found your vids and subbed
Cheers for that! Glad to have another GT rider aboard 👍
Gr8 video chaps. I am not sure if I agree with the marking the chain and sprockets approach to keeping he cams in time. How can you be sure the slack chain did not jump a tooth or two on the crank sprocket. Always and I mean ALWAYS check the timing marks before hitting the start button :)
good job
Great video guys. I am going to try and attempt this on my 1983 Kawasaki Spectre 1100. Im sure the procedure is the same just on a bigger engine. I have the service manual for all the specs.
Cheers! Yes I reckon the process on your Spectre will be much the same as this. Good luck 👍
Checked my valves yesterday after watching your video. #4 inlet valve reads "0" too! All other valves are within tolerances. Where did you start getting #4 within the specs?
I seem to think we switched it out for another shim and manually turned the engine over a few times. Re-measured and then re-shimmed it. I think the valve was slightly sticking
Hi, thanks for the video. What the diameter dimension of the shim ? 13mm ? Thanks.
Hi, great vid mate! Did you by any chance get oil appearing on the top of your cylinder head fins, either side of your cylinder 1 and 4 spark plugs after you'd ridden it for a few days? The outer 4 bolts on the cam cover should have thread lock on them but it wasn't mentioned in the video so I don't know if you did it. These 4 bolts threads are open and oil works past the threads and eventually pools on the top fins, ask me how I know!
Ha, I won’t ask 😁 I don’t actually remember now if I did put thread lock on. Whatever I did it would have been from the Haynes manual. As it happens I haven’t had any oil leakage at all - so perhaps I did! 🤷🏼♂️
Mine do that!!!! Always wondered why. Cheers 👍🍺🍻🍺
Is your bike the later zephyr engine? I couldn't find a Haynes manual that covered this bike so use a zephyr one instead.
Uhm... possibly, not sure if/when they changed it. Everything I’ve done on the bike has come from the ‘Kawasaki 750 aircooled fours’ Haynes manual. It seems to cover everything I need 😁
Where i find more video same model bike? I bought just same model bike and i need good advices and info that bike😇
Stumbled on your videos cos I’ve bought a cg125 I’m in ossett are you boys local?
Not far away fella, we’re out in Barnsley. How are you getting on with the CG?
Just realised we were at NYAB when we filmed this, so even closer 👍
Hey guys, this is stock exhaust but sounds better then mine! could you share the mods?
Hey! The only difference here is that the baffles have been removed from the ends of each exhaust can. It was done before I bought the bike, but I think the original end baffles are just riveted in 👍
supperb
Where did you get the shims from buddy ??
They had them already at the workshop, and they were kind enough to let me raid them so I never had to look elsewhere thankfully. There don’t seem to be too many available online but I think amazon have some, or I guess you could ask your local bike garage where they get theirs from.
Look for the Hotcams HCshim32 kit on ebay, that's where I bought mine, should be 13mm O.D. shims.
I got gloves like that... No thumbs 😂
Wow!! Never work on an engine when HOT! 🙄 This is what it's like to "know everything about everything". 😂
We have to tell people that or else we get aggro in the comments. I guess we get aggro either way. Welcome to the internet 👍