Your video is what I'm looking for. No hassle and straight to the point. I just have a minor concern. Will this disintegrade the plastic since it's in direct sunlight? Like will it become brittle after treating it with that solution?
Thanks, appreciate it!! Nope, no bad effects for me. I've been using this variant to its full extent. I even used the higher concentrated variant. You can check my other video related to retrobrighting. I used a higher concentrated H2O2 with no bad side effects, just awesome results :) Gunpla Hack #7
yan ang best way talaga to restore plastic to its original color kaso un lng need mo talaga ng sinag ng araw or mataas na UV light para bumalik ung puti nya... pero nice move to... more content like this bro🥰🥰🥰🤩🤩🤩
Super thanks bro. grabe 2 days walang araw masyado.. good thing tumatagos parin nmn daw ang UV light sa ulap regrdless, kaya natanggal parin mga 70 to 80% ng yellow :) thanks uli
@@yangatsoul7674 Really? Even without sunlight? I have kits built like 10 years ago and I think none of them got discolored, just some white parts turned yellow.
Hi Miguel. If it's unpacked and exposed, yes it will somehow accumulate some yellowing. It usually starts when exposed to air and sunlight. If it's packed and boxed, I don't think it will.
@@MarkPascual-h6d It probably would. Note that H2O2 is acid. But if it's top coated, it will most probably protect the Wsd while H2O2 doing its job. Check my part 2 video of this.
@@yangatsoul7674 Thanks, this worked with my figure rise vegeta ssb version, but I only tried with the white parts on the armor. Will try again tomorrow with the blue parts.
Thanks sa tip. I think Retrobrighting ang tawag sa method mo. Need to do this dun sa PG unleashed RX 78-2 ko mejo nanilaw ung bandang thigh niya just under the waist.
You're correct:) I actually didn't know that term until upon checking 😂. You can use the blue label. It has higher concentration than the red label H2O2
@@yangatsoul7674 Ah talaga may difference pala ung red at blue. Thanks ulit sa advise 😁. Mejo minor lang ung paninilaw nung sa sakin I think magwowork na ung red label. Will try to use ung blue label sa major yellowing.
@@yangatsoul7674 update lang bossing, ginawa ko today ito, effective nga basta tirik ang araw. 1 hour palang nakabilad wala na ung slight yellowing. ahon ko na after 2 hours na-bilad
Hello. It depends, there are several reasons, one is if the white plastic is exposed to sunlight. It will take some 2-3 Months to see some yellowing. My RG Nu and RG Unicorn took a year before seeing minimal yellowing without sunlight exposure. I suggest top coating to protect it somehow but it is not 100 % guaranteed though.
Can you do this on top coated kits? My MG Barbatos in its 1st form is yellowing and I jope to Atleast make it as clean as the other form parts as possible before posing them
Thanks David :) I don't know yet. Ang basis ko lang as per research ay kung nag bubble pa siya, ok pa.. Sa case ko kasi ibinabad ko uli at iniwan sa labas for the 2nd time. Update kita bro. You can aslo check my social media (fb and insta) nag uupdate din ako dun :) Thanks ulit :)
It's a bit tricky to calculate that haha. I says on the label 10 volumes which means : 10 Vol H2O2 has 3.29g/l strength which has 0.32% percentage strength.. 0.32 % is low when you look at it, but this is enough to remove the yellowing.. You can use a higher concentrate I think there's 20 volumes :)
Ok po ba yan sa colored parts? Di po ba masisira yung color nya? May nabili kasi akong second hand na gadessa at napaka luma na nya yung color white nya naninilaw na tapos yung green parts nya ganun na din. Gusto ko sana ma restore sya sa original color nya.
Sa experiment ko hindi ko gaanong nasunod ang process 100% dahil sa kukang ng sikat ng araw. For better results, try using a higher concentration/percentage ng H2O2 then Purong tirik na sikat ng araw mga 1-2hrs max.. Marerestore kahit ang colored parts. Hindi masisira ang color :)
Ah yung blue label? Oo mas matapang yun pwedeng pwede, basta iwasan mo malanghap at mag gloves karin para sure. Then babad lang ng 1-2 hours lalo na pag tirik ang araw.
Salamat po sa video, meron po ako tanong. Dapat po ba disassemble ang model kapag mag linis? Secondly, applicable po ba ang technique na ito for translucent plastic? (like action bases)
You're welcome 🙂. Kung mailulubog ang parts nang hindi bina baklas ok lng, no need to disassemble. Pagdating sa translucent, di ako sure pero kung may makikita kang paninilaw pinaka safe na mga 1hr lng sa sunlight. Pwede rin kc dumupok ang plastic pag di maingat. Pero I've never seen this technique used sa translucent. Pang yellow stains kc ito na caused by chemical reaction ng plastic sa UV rays at oxygen.
I haven't tried it before. But it is a strong chemical and would probably soften the decals. Once I tried the water decals on Beyond Global I'll do an experiment.
One of the reasons kaya ako nag stop sa pag building ng gunpla noon dahil sa yellowing na turn off ako lalo mas prominent kaagad mag yellowing ang part pag ni sand yung nub marks, pero goods yan hack na yan salamat po, kaya lately pag build ako ng gunpla gumagamit na ako ng Mr Hobby Mr Super clear flat/gloss UV cut kahit mahal siya at least alam ko protected yung kit UV or kung wala yung stock ng UV Cut topcoat ni weather ko nalang slightly parang mag blend yung yellowing if ever mag start. Salamat ulit sa Hack, try ko to sa mga lumang lumang kits ko po.
Maraming gumamit ng H2O2 sa figures nila mas nag ok ang colors kahit may pintura pa.. I suggest na mag babad ka ng isang maliit na piraso, para ma try..
Hi. Thanks for the follow up 😊 Just been busy with other stuff and waited for a good weather. For that type/variant of H2O2, as per video, almost 80% of the yellowing is gone (48hrs on a cloudy day). I tried it off cam to push it further and it didn't disappoint. I'll post a pic in the community tab :)... I appreciate your attention to my content, have a pleasant day to you :)
Your video is what I'm looking for. No hassle and straight to the point. I just have a minor concern. Will this disintegrade the plastic since it's in direct sunlight? Like will it become brittle after treating it with that solution?
Thanks, appreciate it!! Nope, no bad effects for me. I've been using this variant to its full extent. I even used the higher concentrated variant. You can check my other video related to retrobrighting. I used a higher concentrated H2O2 with no bad side effects, just awesome results :) Gunpla Hack #7
yan ang best way talaga to restore plastic to its original color kaso un lng need mo talaga ng sinag ng araw or mataas na UV light para bumalik ung puti nya... pero nice move to... more content like this bro🥰🥰🥰🤩🤩🤩
Super thanks bro. grabe 2 days walang araw masyado.. good thing tumatagos parin nmn daw ang UV light sa ulap regrdless, kaya natanggal parin mga 70 to 80% ng yellow :) thanks uli
Did this yellowing or similar effect also occurs on non-white plastic?
@@gm2998 I haven't seen/discovered that on my kits, but yes it does occur on non-whites.
@@yangatsoul7674 Really? Even without sunlight?
I have kits built like 10 years ago and I think none of them got discolored, just some white parts turned yellow.
Hi Will the white parts of unbuilt kits turn yellow over time as well?
Hi Miguel. If it's unpacked and exposed, yes it will somehow accumulate some yellowing. It usually starts when exposed to air and sunlight. If it's packed and boxed, I don't think it will.
How about the parts with wsd? Does it give.damages to it?
@@MarkPascual-h6d It probably would. Note that H2O2 is acid. But if it's top coated, it will most probably protect the Wsd while H2O2 doing its job. Check my part 2 video of this.
Can you reuse the hydrogen peroxide for the other parts? Or can this be used in other colors, such as blue?
Yes and yes :) Higher concentrate, the better.
@@yangatsoul7674 Thanks, this worked with my figure rise vegeta ssb version, but I only tried with the white parts on the armor. Will try again tomorrow with the blue parts.
Thanks sa tip. I think Retrobrighting ang tawag sa method mo.
Need to do this dun sa PG unleashed RX 78-2 ko mejo nanilaw ung bandang thigh niya just under the waist.
You're correct:) I actually didn't know that term until upon checking 😂. You can use the blue label. It has higher concentration than the red label H2O2
@@yangatsoul7674 Ah talaga may difference pala ung red at blue. Thanks ulit sa advise 😁. Mejo minor lang ung paninilaw nung sa sakin I think magwowork na ung red label. Will try to use ung blue label sa major yellowing.
@@yangatsoul7674 update lang bossing, ginawa ko today ito, effective nga basta tirik ang araw. 1 hour palang nakabilad wala na ung slight yellowing. ahon ko na after 2 hours na-bilad
How quickly do white model kits start yellowing? I just started buying gunpla after a visit to the Gundam Base booth at Anime Expo a month ago.
Hello. It depends, there are several reasons, one is if the white plastic is exposed to sunlight. It will take some 2-3 Months to see some yellowing. My RG Nu and RG Unicorn took a year before seeing minimal yellowing without sunlight exposure. I suggest top coating to protect it somehow but it is not 100 % guaranteed though.
Does this work for clear plastic? For example like the action base white clear
It can work :)
Can you do this on top coated kits? My MG Barbatos in its 1st form is yellowing and I jope to Atleast make it as clean as the other form parts as possible before posing them
Haven't tried it yet. I'll experiment on that and will keep you guys posted :)
@@yangatsoul7674 maraming salamat bro
Though it took 9 months we now have the answers to that bro
@@yangatsoul7674 will yiu post is as a video?
Nice bossing, tanong ko lang... Reusable pa ba yung ginamit na hydrogen peroxide?
Thanks David :) I don't know yet. Ang basis ko lang as per research ay kung nag bubble pa siya, ok pa.. Sa case ko kasi ibinabad ko uli at iniwan sa labas for the 2nd time. Update kita bro. You can aslo check my social media (fb and insta) nag uupdate din ako dun :) Thanks ulit :)
It safe for any gundam plastic?
Yes, it is, this variant is a bit of a low concentration. But you can still use a higher concentration without damaging the plastic.
Naaaffect po ba yung mga other colors and/or decals pag kasama sila na nasubmerge?
Hi. decals di ko sure pa pero colors ay hindi affected, narerestore pa kamo siya :) Thanks for asking :)
@@yangatsoul7674 ok po, thanks sa info.
How much hydrogen peroxide % that you used?
It's a bit tricky to calculate that haha. I says on the label 10 volumes which means : 10 Vol H2O2 has 3.29g/l strength which has 0.32% percentage strength.. 0.32 % is low when you look at it, but this is enough to remove the yellowing.. You can use a higher concentrate I think there's 20 volumes :)
Ok po ba yan sa colored parts? Di po ba masisira yung color nya? May nabili kasi akong second hand na gadessa at napaka luma na nya yung color white nya naninilaw na tapos yung green parts nya ganun na din. Gusto ko sana ma restore sya sa original color nya.
Sa experiment ko hindi ko gaanong nasunod ang process 100% dahil sa kukang ng sikat ng araw. For better results, try using a higher concentration/percentage ng H2O2 then Purong tirik na sikat ng araw mga 1-2hrs max.. Marerestore kahit ang colored parts. Hindi masisira ang color :)
Sir okay lang ba gamitin 20 volume ng hydrogen peroxide?
Ah yung blue label? Oo mas matapang yun pwedeng pwede, basta iwasan mo malanghap at mag gloves karin para sure. Then babad lang ng 1-2 hours lalo na pag tirik ang araw.
Sir pag ba binabad yung mga colored parts example is blue maapektuhan ba yung kulay nya?tsaka dun sir sa mga clear parts
@@romeowpendel9816 colors won't be affected kahit clear parts... di ko pa natry ang 20 volumes,, mag try ka muna sa scrap plastic parts para sure :)
Salamat po sa video, meron po ako tanong. Dapat po ba disassemble ang model kapag mag linis? Secondly, applicable po ba ang technique na ito for translucent plastic? (like action bases)
You're welcome 🙂. Kung mailulubog ang parts nang hindi bina baklas ok lng, no need to disassemble. Pagdating sa translucent, di ako sure pero kung may makikita kang paninilaw pinaka safe na mga 1hr lng sa sunlight. Pwede rin kc dumupok ang plastic pag di maingat. Pero I've never seen this technique used sa translucent. Pang yellow stains kc ito na caused by chemical reaction ng plastic sa UV rays at oxygen.
@@yangatsoul7674 salamat po sa response. You get a sub :DD
@@sushiatsushi1538 Welcome Sushi :) Maraming salamat s support :)
Safe ba ang Hydrogen Peroxide sa polystyrene at ABS plastic?
sa PS oo pwede I think PS ang plastic ng RG Nu armor.. Sa ABS di pa na try :)
I see... Although ang ABS plastic, medyo delikado sa enamel based solvents...
@@donnluna7612 Ang H2O2 ay hindi nman enamel based (hindi oil based) kaya try mo lang muna siguro sa scrap na ABS plastic parts :)
May point ka... 😅😅😅
Dont forgot topcoat after all
It safe for water decal gundam?
I haven't tried it before. But it is a strong chemical and would probably soften the decals. Once I tried the water decals on Beyond Global I'll do an experiment.
Nagana kaya to sa metal build na bandai? Buong parts kasi nanilaw na.
Advice ko ay sa direktang white plastic without paint. Doon ito gagana :)
can I do this with mafex figure?
Yes you can. You can also try the higher concentrated variant.
does this work for sunbleached part?
Sorry, what do you mean by sunbleached?
@@yangatsoul7674 when its like when you let part of plastic stays on the sun bit too long they turned yellow
@@hashimakenta3550 slr. Yes it will work
Gagana po ba yan kung may topcoat yung parts na gusto ko paputiin ulit?
Sorry hindi pa ako sure. I’ll try siguro
will it erase panel lines?
I cleaned it up before soaking so I'm not completely sure, but most probably it will because H2O2 is a strong solvent.
hndi po b humihina or nagiging brittle ang plastic?
Hindi nman. wala nman siya negative effect so far.
One of the reasons kaya ako nag stop sa pag building ng gunpla noon dahil sa yellowing na turn off ako lalo mas prominent kaagad mag yellowing ang part pag ni sand yung nub marks, pero goods yan hack na yan salamat po, kaya lately pag build ako ng gunpla gumagamit na ako ng Mr Hobby Mr Super clear flat/gloss UV cut kahit mahal siya at least alam ko protected yung kit UV or kung wala yung stock ng UV Cut topcoat ni weather ko nalang slightly parang mag blend yung yellowing if ever mag start. Salamat ulit sa Hack, try ko to sa mga lumang lumang kits ko po.
You're welcome po :) You can also try the higher concentrated variant :)
Thank you so much this is very useful
You're welcome :)
pwede ko ba ibabad mafex figure jan boss
Maraming gumamit ng H2O2 sa figures nila mas nag ok ang colors kahit may pintura pa.. I suggest na mag babad ka ng isang maliit na piraso, para ma try..
It’s been 9 days. How’s the result?
Hi. Thanks for the follow up 😊 Just been busy with other stuff and waited for a good weather. For that type/variant of H2O2, as per video, almost 80% of the yellowing is gone (48hrs on a cloudy day). I tried it off cam to push it further and it didn't disappoint. I'll post a pic in the community tab :)... I appreciate your attention to my content, have a pleasant day to you :)
present ✋
Thanks Rommel:)
Nice tip..
Glad you liked it Sir
hydrogen peroxide 3% ?
It's 10 volumes