Links to the tools I mentioned at the end of the video: Vim HD dust cap pliers - amzn.to/2WRKeJo Mayhew Rolling Head Pry Bar (short) - amzn.to/2WRKeJo Mayhew Rolling Head Pry Bar (medium) - amzn.to/2I4lgTF Brake Caliper Hooks - amzn.to/2WPyIhz
I'm sure it doesn't matter what industry you are in someone will always think they know better. I have been a mechanic in Australia for just over 29 years. I have never filled the hub cavities with grease. I have never had a premature bearing failure due to a lack of grease in the bearing. If the bearings were packed correctly, this is all they need. Anyone that says overwise either used the wrong grease or didn't pack the bearings correctly or had the bearings too tight or too loose. As for anti-seize, I use it everywhere that I think it needs it, especially if I know I'll be the next guy back there in a few years time. Good work Wes, I really enjoy your channel.
Nice job Wes! It's sometimes hard to predict what folks will find interesting or learn from. When we've done something alot, it may seem boring to us, but someone watching can pick up a lot. I was grateful for the bearing preload detail :)
Obviously you have a lot of experience and know what you are doing and it might seem simple to you, but to some of us this video is very helpful. I learned a lot from watching you do this job. Thank you very much.
I enjoyed watching. Thanks for posting. I ask a friend if I could borrow his trailer and he said one of the bearings was loose, so I said I would take it apart and grease it ha ha. The outer bearing was shot so after a ride to town and locating a new bearing and getting it replaced. My hour trailer borrow turned into a most of the afternoon affair. But the old boy has always been good to me so I was happy to help him out. I always try to pay it forward.
My 2nd car, a Datsun 240 SSS Coupe, had a growl coming from the front right. So front wheel bearings was my 1st ever DIY job on a car. I hadn't even passed my driving test yet! The biggest memory was reading the Haynes manual for the step by step instructions (with photos) and discovering that "drift out the old bearings" didn't mean gently slide... It meant whack it bloody hard with a big old hammer! So this video brought back some happy memories of a job done in the road way back in the '82. 😎
Love your videos Wes, keep up the great work... The way I use to grease bearings was to melt the grease in a double boiler, then dunk in the bearings, cos the grease was liquid it would get into every nook and cranny...
*@**11:50* I always *lightly* grease wheel stud threads. So many times, you see people, attempting to remove lug nuts- and powdered rust falls out, galling & chirping off & back on. It's the *_conical chamfer_* that holds the nut, with friction, into the rim hole. The threads merely allow the nut to tighten. Rusty threads lead to dangerous prematurely under tightening, and broken studs.
I was always a bit foggy on proper wheel bearing install, "then rotate from 9 oclock to 14 oclock to verify finger tightness and overall torques specs on the non-standard frogleg installation chart." YMMV, et. al, etc..... Your explanation was clear. Thanks for that. Even a short sweet vid like this is worth posting...
Wes top tip buddy. When removing the wheel bearings. Just remove the outer bearing. Then put the washer and nut back on. Then pull the rotor off. The washer nut combo. Will catch the inner bearing . Then pull off the seal and inner bearing. Will be left on the spindle. With little effort. Trust me buddy I did it the same way as you for years. When I tried this. I just thought wow why wasn't I doing this a long time ago. God bless
Hey Wes! Thanks for posting this video. I bought a 1989 F-250 cheap from a rancher. It has had a hard life. Videos like yours help me to bring it back to life. Also, the bit at the end about the tools you used was really helpful as well.
Another great recommendation, RUclips. Good way to remove that rear seal is to remove the front bearing, put the nut on a few threads and pull the rotor towards you. Works every time for me.
Tip - to easily remove the inner bearing and seal, stick the nut back on the spindle after u remove the outer bearing. Then slide the rotor towards u and the nut will take the bearing and seal out in 1 shot.
315,000 miles on my 97 F250 crew cab. Front getting a little noisy and I’m thinking maybe bearings. Thanks for the video! Gives me an idea of what I’m getting into. Ooooo...hard core bearing packer! No sissy gloves for YOU!😳😁
I run the wix XP filters on all 3 of my vehicles. I run synthetic oil and wix xp are really a good filter and I typically order those from rock auto as I found they are substantially cheaper and I do not have a local Napa store. My local o'reilly store carries them also but even with shipping charges it's cheaper for me to order them from rock auto.. Discovered U channel recently really enjoy the content. My buddy has A96 f250 with that power stroke in it 195000 miles and still runs strong. We live in the North so the body is rusting off the truck but the motor is running like a champ. Thank you for the video
@@wll1500 Have never seen them rust in place....and I live in a climate where rust is very common....in Toronto, Canada. Rust kills vehicles here....because of all the salt the city uses on the roads, sidewalks, parking lots and so on. If anything, they sometimes slide a bit on their own if you don't put the slide pin in properly.
Flashlight got a helluva magnet! I got a slight squeak on the front left.. probably looking at doing this is in the near future. Getting me one of them dang lights first! Thanks man
For these types of wheel bearing races, if I don’t have a bearing driver, I’ll take an angle grinder, cut a slot in the old race, then pound the new race in using the old one as a jig. The old one won’t get stuck because the slot I made allows the race to collapse inwards.
Hey Wes try removing the outer bearing then put the axle nut back on . then pull the rotor off across the nut . your inner bearing and seal will end up hang ing on the axle . if you need to reuse the seal it is still intact
Bill replaced his 7.3 in SPOT and talked about those dipstick fittings. They leak and can only be replaced by pulling the pan (engine too). The new fittings are thicker to prevent warpage.
International sells a repair kit that is basically a tube of RTV silicone and a gasket that goes on the outside. You eliminate the o-ring inside. It can be done without dropping the pan. That's probably the route I will go.
I wish I could say that. With 24 Illinois winters under her belt, of course she's a pile of rust. Also, the drivers door window leaks pretty bad and has rusted the floor out.
One of the tools that is actually "cheap" from Snap-on is the race/seal drivers, which is why I own the set. I have a _nearly_ lifetime supply of 5/8x4" aluminum discs to make additional drivers for the set.
I guess I started watching the channel shortly after this video, never seen before. I was wondering how much grease to put in these e-250 bearings...very relieved to see a video from WWW!
You and Eric O. are my favorite youtuber’s. Very positive and uplifting content, maybe it sounds weird but I enjoy watching old junk getting worked on. It lives to die another day! Do you have any branded gloves for sale Wes? It’d be real nifty to own a pair with the vise gripped battery on them and “Watch Wes” inside the battery with the word “Work” spelled out going across the fingers! Badass gloves right there!
After you remove the outer bearing, tread the nut back on, then yank to rotor off. It removes the inner bearing and seal. Well on most the older vehicles. The seal will be undamaged so you can reuse it. Old timers trick
Funny. I know those cam sensors are an issue. I kept one on hand. But in the well over 100k on my 2001 f250, I never had one go out. Must have been a unicorn. Lol. Great video as usual Wes!
I had a 1995 Mazda b4000. I loved that truck sold her off because we had kiddos but it's still on the road in nw pa. The factor rotors had 150k on them and they were still in great shape. That truck had double piston calipers I had to change the pads every 30k or so but those rotors had a ton of meat on them so I'd believe those are original
Started using anti-seize before your dad even had a twinkle in his eye for you, back when had to almost have a commercial account to get it. Used the gray, the copper based one & the actual silver based one, that was about 25$ a ounce back then, so careful on its use. Silver compound , like 8% silver, was for high voltage electrical application .
I'm sure there is a factory setup procedure, but I always just torque them up tight to be sure the bearings are seated, then back it off so it's loose, then finger tight. You just want a very small amount of end play in the bearings.
Speaking as a hack home mechanic, to install new races, I cut through the old one with an angle grinder, and use that to tap the new race in (thin edge to thin edge. As the cut makes it flexible, you can drive the new one all the way in, below the surface of the housing, then pull the old, cut, race out with your fingers.
That's a good one to mention; I have done that a few times when I didn't have a socket or homemade press tool to fit. Never needed a race installer kit bad enough to buy one between a plethora of sockets, tube cutoffs, and old races.
Another video to love. My favorite tool is the longer slightly angled channelok pliers/sidecutters. Sometimes hard to find over their shorter cousins. Its surprising how you and i have many of the exact same tools. Most of mine go back 20-30 years. I am definitely buying that short rollbar. Thanks once again. Craig
A little known tidbit of information about grease: Many greases with bright colors will revert back to the yellowish base color if exposed to UV for a long period of time -- that brownish yellowish apple sauce color is the native color of most base greases.
LOL, you need to end all of your videos with metal clanking into the scrap can :-) BTW, I replaced my crank sensor right before they did the recall, haven't had any trouble with the new design from Ford parts counter.
Use Fram Oil Filter Orange color with Black grip on bottom put grease on threads plus rubber ring on motor plus filter tight up 2 full tight and with cap use socket wrench 3/4 turn more on motor to! It help lots!
I get some criticism for keeping original parts on my old truck. It’s got 45 year old Kelsey-Hayes drums. As long as they are in spec. , they’ll stay there. I trust them much more than new Chinesium drums.
Cool video, haha. Should be boring I guess but I have a 94 12 valve 2wd truck and I suspect the driver front wheel bearing is going. Nice to see a similar repair to prime me for what I might expect on my pup.
I know its a bit late but if you get the old bearing cups and cut them with an angle grinder you can use them to put the new ones in. Generally a better fit than a socket.
I wonder if whoever had the truck before mixed grease types or was using #2 grease and it didn't flow to the bearings. I like to use #1 Chevron blue grease for wheel bearings after cleaning everything out of the old. Also use stainless meat hooks for hanging brake calipers. Also have the F250 HD in 2 wheel drive with the 5.8 engine, 1997 vintage.
I bought one of those cone tools to add grease to bearings, all I see it doing is allowing me to get grease everywhere and on everything, but it does appear the bearings are full of grease,
I attempted this for the first time but long story short, I didn't press the outer bearing as shown in the video. So driving for a few days, the outer bearing broke. The way I knew was because when driving, it sounded like squealing brakes when in reality, it was the bearing. I removed the dust cap and there was plenty of metal shavings
Wes, I'll watch any video you post.even if it is changing wheel bearings on a 24 year old truck.i might need some of your expertise on my 24 year old truck.i have a 1997 ford too.
All mechanics have enough sockets of varying sizes which negates bearing driver sets. Ford wanted to use up some cast iron, so they made the brake disc integral with the hub
Wes I saw a hunk of greese on the back side of the rotor as you reinstalled, hope you caught that, also if you put the nut back on the spindle then slide the rotor over that nut and yank it will pull the seal and rear beering off easy pezie.
Links to the tools I mentioned at the end of the video:
Vim HD dust cap pliers - amzn.to/2WRKeJo
Mayhew Rolling Head Pry Bar (short) - amzn.to/2WRKeJo
Mayhew Rolling Head Pry Bar (medium) - amzn.to/2I4lgTF
Brake Caliper Hooks - amzn.to/2WPyIhz
Watching someone do a bearing replacement start to finish is always important. Nice clean job. No rust!
Much better than watching old Pawn Stars videos
joel miller I hate those herky jerky videos. Really interesting content but the ADHD cameraman can’t hold still.
I'm sure it doesn't matter what industry you are in someone will always think they know better. I have been a mechanic in Australia for just over 29 years. I have never filled the hub cavities with grease. I have never had a premature bearing failure due to a lack of grease in the bearing. If the bearings were packed correctly, this is all they need. Anyone that says overwise either used the wrong grease or didn't pack the bearings correctly or had the bearings too tight or too loose. As for anti-seize, I use it everywhere that I think it needs it, especially if I know I'll be the next guy back there in a few years time. Good work Wes, I really enjoy your channel.
Nice job Wes! It's sometimes hard to predict what folks will find interesting or learn from. When we've done something alot, it may seem boring to us, but someone watching can pick up a lot. I was grateful for the bearing preload detail :)
That's a good point Steve!
I’m glad you did post it Wes as I’m no mechanic we always learn something new, cheers mate.
Alan.
yes definitely post everything. I like to watch everything you do.
Agreed, it's why we're here!
Always nice to watch open bearings being done, we don't see these very often in passenger cars.
the good ole days when wheel bearings were serviceable and didn't cost $200+ each for an integrated sealed unit.
Obviously you have a lot of experience and know what you are doing and it might seem simple to you, but to some of us this video is very helpful. I learned a lot from watching you do this job. Thank you very much.
I enjoyed watching. Thanks for posting.
I ask a friend if I could borrow his trailer and he said one of the bearings was loose, so I said I would take it apart and grease it ha ha. The outer bearing was shot so after a ride to town and locating a new bearing and getting it replaced. My hour trailer borrow turned into a most of the afternoon affair. But the old boy has always been good to me so I was happy to help him out. I always try to pay it forward.
I am glad you posted the video. I'm 68 and it brought back memories of my mechanic days in the 70s in Army out of Ft. Hood Tx.
My 2nd car, a Datsun 240 SSS Coupe, had a growl coming from the front right. So front wheel bearings was my 1st ever DIY job on a car. I hadn't even passed my driving test yet!
The biggest memory was reading the Haynes manual for the step by step instructions (with photos) and discovering that "drift out the old bearings" didn't mean gently slide... It meant whack it bloody hard with a big old hammer!
So this video brought back some happy memories of a job done in the road way back in the '82. 😎
Antiseize Mechanics best prevention of new cuss word combos later down the road
Southerners: *applies thread locker*
Northerners: *applies anti seize*
Love your videos Wes, keep up the great work...
The way I use to grease bearings was to melt the grease in a double boiler, then dunk in the bearings, cos the grease was liquid it would get into every nook and cranny...
thank you wes for posting it means more to me than you know . now im gonna do my 77 f250
*@**11:50*
I always *lightly* grease wheel stud threads.
So many times, you see people, attempting to remove lug nuts-
and powdered rust falls out, galling & chirping off & back on.
It's the *_conical chamfer_* that holds the nut, with friction, into
the rim hole. The threads merely allow the nut to tighten.
Rusty threads lead to dangerous prematurely under tightening,
and broken studs.
I was always a bit foggy on proper wheel bearing install, "then rotate from 9 oclock to 14 oclock to verify finger tightness and overall torques specs on the non-standard frogleg installation chart." YMMV, et. al, etc..... Your explanation was clear. Thanks for that. Even a short sweet vid like this is worth posting...
Wes top tip buddy. When removing the wheel bearings. Just remove the outer bearing. Then put the washer and nut back on. Then pull the rotor off. The washer nut combo. Will catch the inner bearing . Then pull off the seal and inner bearing. Will be left on the spindle. With little effort. Trust me buddy I did it the same way as you for years. When I tried this. I just thought wow why wasn't I doing this a long time ago. God bless
It appreciate you sharing your knowledge regardless how big or small! Thanks for keeping it real!
Hey Wes! Thanks for posting this video. I bought a 1989 F-250 cheap from a rancher. It has had a hard life. Videos like yours help me to bring it back to life. Also, the bit at the end about the tools you used was really helpful as well.
Glad I could help!
Another great recommendation, RUclips. Good way to remove that rear seal is to remove the front bearing, put the nut on a few threads and pull the rotor towards you. Works every time for me.
Tip - to easily remove the inner bearing and seal, stick the nut back on the spindle after u remove the outer bearing. Then slide the rotor towards u and the nut will take the bearing and seal out in 1 shot.
Filling the whole hub full of grease is a waste you did a fantastic job wes👍👍👍👍
Peace and love from Clearwater Florida
315,000 miles on my 97 F250 crew cab. Front getting a little noisy and I’m thinking maybe bearings. Thanks for the video! Gives me an idea of what I’m getting into.
Ooooo...hard core bearing packer! No sissy gloves for YOU!😳😁
I run the wix XP filters on all 3 of my vehicles. I run synthetic oil and wix xp are really a good filter and I typically order those from rock auto as I found they are substantially cheaper and I do not have a local Napa store. My local o'reilly store carries them also but even with shipping charges it's cheaper for me to order them from rock auto.. Discovered U channel recently really enjoy the content. My buddy has A96 f250 with that power stroke in it 195000 miles and still runs strong. We live in the North so the body is rusting off the truck but the motor is running like a champ. Thank you for the video
Who would have thought A brake repair could be so entertaining?
I've got the 1992 version with the 302, and the caliper removal is so incredibly simple...with just the two slide pins to push out.
The squeeze slides are great in my opinion. Incredibly easy to service.
It's simple until they rust in place
@@wll1500 Have never seen them rust in place....and I live in a climate where rust is very common....in Toronto, Canada. Rust kills vehicles here....because of all the salt the city uses on the roads, sidewalks, parking lots and so on. If anything, they sometimes slide a bit on their own if you don't put the slide pin in properly.
Hi Wes. Thanks for the videos. I enjoy watching a craftsman work and I learned a couple of tips. Thanks again and keep them coming.
Flashlight got a helluva magnet! I got a slight squeak on the front left.. probably looking at doing this is in the near future. Getting me one of them dang lights first! Thanks man
For these types of wheel bearing races, if I don’t have a bearing driver, I’ll take an angle grinder, cut a slot in the old race, then pound the new race in using the old one as a jig. The old one won’t get stuck because the slot I made allows the race to collapse inwards.
This just reminded me, I need to have a look at my 96 GMC
Glad you did post it knowledge is a powerful thing. You just taught me how to change out the bearings on my truck. Thank you
Learned about the pliers on this post. Thanks Wes.
Hey Wes try removing the outer bearing then put the axle nut back on . then pull the rotor off across the nut . your inner bearing and seal will end up hang ing on the axle . if you need to reuse the seal it is still intact
10:27 I can smell the brake cleaner. Smell-o-vision. lol
I love watching this kind of stuff, keep it coming Wes!
Bill replaced his 7.3 in SPOT and talked about those dipstick fittings. They leak and can only be replaced by pulling the pan (engine too). The new fittings are thicker to prevent warpage.
International sells a repair kit that is basically a tube of RTV silicone and a gasket that goes on the outside. You eliminate the o-ring inside. It can be done without dropping the pan. That's probably the route I will go.
Nothing wrong with the video Wes. Glad to have something to watch.
Thanks Steve!
When you were saying "this one is pretty rare...", I thought you were going to say "it's not a pile of rust".
I wish I could say that. With 24 Illinois winters under her belt, of course she's a pile of rust. Also, the drivers door window leaks pretty bad and has rusted the floor out.
One of the tools that is actually "cheap" from Snap-on is the race/seal drivers, which is why I own the set. I have a _nearly_ lifetime supply of 5/8x4" aluminum discs to make additional drivers for the set.
I enjoyed watching you change out the bearings. Keep up the great work. Your adding to my Christmas list everytime I see a tool I want
I guess I started watching the channel shortly after this video, never seen before. I was wondering how much grease to put in these e-250 bearings...very relieved to see a video from WWW!
Any kind of work you do is view worthy
Thanks for the very simple bearing wheel maintenance video Wes.
You and Eric O. are my favorite youtuber’s. Very positive and uplifting content, maybe it sounds weird but I enjoy watching old junk getting worked on. It lives to die another day! Do you have any branded gloves for sale Wes? It’d be real nifty to own a pair with the vise gripped battery on them and “Watch Wes” inside the battery with the word “Work” spelled out going across the fingers! Badass gloves right there!
The ending was hilarious 😆.
Thanks for posting, mainly to see it can be done at home pretty easily. Just regular bearings and races.
to drive the new races in i cut a slit into the old ones and use those as a driver
Tha's what I do.
After you remove the outer bearing, tread the nut back on, then yank to rotor off. It removes the inner bearing and seal. Well on most the older vehicles. The seal will be undamaged so you can reuse it. Old timers trick
Good memory for me. I remember when my Dad taught me how to pack a wheel bearing on my 66 chevy II.
Funny. I know those cam sensors are an issue. I kept one on hand. But in the well over 100k on my 2001 f250, I never had one go out. Must have been a unicorn. Lol. Great video as usual Wes!
I rather enjoyed watching you. Plus I learned a little about setting wheel bearings tension.
I had a 1995 Mazda b4000. I loved that truck sold her off because we had kiddos but it's still on the road in nw pa. The factor rotors had 150k on them and they were still in great shape. That truck had double piston calipers I had to change the pads every 30k or so but those rotors had a ton of meat on them so I'd believe those are original
Started using anti-seize before your dad even had a twinkle in his eye for you, back when had to almost have a commercial account to get it.
Used the gray, the copper based one & the actual silver based one, that was about 25$ a ounce back then, so careful on its use.
Silver compound , like 8% silver, was for high voltage electrical application .
Your most exciting vid to date ! Lol good one, I liked the tool review as the end
LOL. Glad you stayed awake for the whole thing!
Well I'm glad you did post. I like to watch a vid before I get into something I haven't done before awsome vid thanks
Glad you posted this video the final nut tension procedure was what I was looking for thanks for sharing Wes 👍🇦🇺
I'm sure there is a factory setup procedure, but I always just torque them up tight to be sure the bearings are seated, then back it off so it's loose, then finger tight. You just want a very small amount of end play in the bearings.
Thanks Wes 👍🇦🇺
Speaking as a hack home mechanic, to install new races, I cut through the old one with an angle grinder, and use that to tap the new race in (thin edge to thin edge. As the cut makes it flexible, you can drive the new one all the way in, below the surface of the housing, then pull the old, cut, race out with your fingers.
That's a good one to mention; I have done that a few times when I didn't have a socket or homemade press tool to fit. Never needed a race installer kit bad enough to buy one between a plethora of sockets, tube cutoffs, and old races.
Oh how I miss the time before unit-bearings.
Wix is the only filter I use. Have the best service out of the with no failures. Both fleet and private.
Thank you very much God bless...
Love from Philippines...
I’m glad you did post it Thanks Alf
damn, glad i found this channel...
Thanks 🙏 glad you posted.
Nice job Wes, smooth as Forrest Lawn. Great video, thumbs up.
Nice way to pass the time after a graveyard before bed everyone else is asleep . Good job one Vid . I watched . Have a good one .
Another video to love. My favorite tool is the longer slightly angled channelok pliers/sidecutters. Sometimes hard to find over their shorter cousins. Its surprising how you and i have many of the exact same tools. Most of mine go back 20-30 years. I am definitely buying that short rollbar. Thanks once again. Craig
I just buy what I need. My tools are a giant hodgepodge of brands. Some are really old. Some are brand new.
hahaha...I LOL'ed on the glove box trailer!
Thank you for posting this video!!
Lol, the outro killed me🤣. I have a CPS and a ICP sensor in my glove box, long live these ol 7.3's.
"NAPA, not a sponsor". Love SMA. Now you just need the brake clean sound.
I appreciate these videos Thank you!
I watched the video for the 2nd time. Thanks for the video.
At least yours came right off. One of the hubs on my 91 had welded the bearings to the spindle.
Literally dealing with the same thing now I'm just replacing the entire knuckle
A little known tidbit of information about grease: Many greases with bright colors will revert back to the yellowish base color if exposed to UV for a long period of time -- that brownish yellowish apple sauce color is the native color of most base greases.
The older stuff is so much easier to work on.
Been anti sneezing wheel studs since 96 never lost a wheel or broke a stud..
Nice shout out to Eric and the caliper hanger. He actually got his from a viewer.
Never heard of them before I saw him use them. Now I'm hooked. I know...
@@WatchWesWork Wes..........LOL.
LOL, you need to end all of your videos with metal clanking into the scrap can :-) BTW, I replaced my crank sensor right before they did the recall, haven't had any trouble with the new design from Ford parts counter.
I've done it in many videos. Sometimes I forget to film it.
Puralator classic oil filters rock !
You know how many times ive watched wes and this truck. Just noticed in this video that its a 2wd truck😂
Use Fram Oil Filter Orange color with Black grip on bottom put grease on threads plus rubber ring on motor plus filter tight up 2 full tight and with cap use socket wrench 3/4 turn more on motor to! It help lots!
I get some criticism for keeping original parts on my old truck. It’s got 45 year old Kelsey-Hayes drums. As long as they are in spec. , they’ll stay there. I trust them much more than new Chinesium drums.
always exciting to watch wes work - no foolin'!
Re: Glove box HAHA So true!! Thanks for posting this
Man I couldn’t find a single video on a 2wd wheel bearing replacement I was beginning to think I had the only 2wd obs in the world😂
I have one, and so does my dad!
HOW EXCITING IS IT??? Let's just say I'm glad my chair is absorbent!! WOOT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Cool video, haha. Should be boring I guess but I have a 94 12 valve 2wd truck and I suspect the driver front wheel bearing is going. Nice to see a similar repair to prime me for what I might expect on my pup.
I know its a bit late but if you get the old bearing cups and cut them with an angle grinder you can use them to put the new ones in. Generally a better fit than a socket.
I wonder if whoever had the truck before mixed grease types or was using #2 grease and it didn't flow to the bearings. I like to use #1 Chevron blue grease for wheel bearings after cleaning everything out of the old. Also use stainless meat hooks for hanging brake calipers. Also have the F250 HD in 2 wheel drive with the 5.8 engine, 1997 vintage.
I bought one of those cone tools to add grease to bearings, all I see it doing is allowing me to get grease everywhere and on everything, but it does appear the bearings are full of grease,
If you use the race you took out it works fine old race to put in new race. I like these videos don’t sale yourself short
I attempted this for the first time but long story short, I didn't press the outer bearing as shown in the video. So driving for a few days, the outer bearing broke. The way I knew was because when driving, it sounded like squealing brakes when in reality, it was the bearing. I removed the dust cap and there was plenty of metal shavings
Glad you posted.
nice job Wes
Thank you for posting!!! Just wan I wan to to know what to do with my old ford and how to fix it thanks
Wes, I'll watch any video you post.even if it is changing wheel bearings on a 24 year old truck.i might need some of your expertise on my 24 year old truck.i have a 1997 ford too.
All mechanics have enough sockets of varying sizes which negates bearing driver sets. Ford wanted to use up some cast iron, so they made the brake disc integral with the hub
Wes I saw a hunk of greese on the back side of the rotor as you reinstalled, hope you caught that, also if you put the nut back on the spindle then slide the rotor over that nut and yank it will pull the seal and rear beering off easy pezie.
That was exiting!