We recently had baseboard heaters removed from each room in our house. I was thinking I would call in the professionals to install new trim however after watching your video I think as an aspiring woodworker I will tackle it myself. I can see now how a sliding bevel and Sawset tool are your best friends for all sorts of trim work. Thanks for the inspiration.
I just used this method to do my stairs and it turned out great. If your baseboard on landing and on steps line up (as it does on this video) you can just put the angle finder there instead of doing the geometry on wall. It will be the same angle as both rails will run parallel. Thanks for posting this video as there aren’t many in this topic.
Hello Lee, Yes you can. Try some how to practice first. Maybe a scaled down version. Or at least lay it out on paper first. My success full project was layed out on the computer and on paper a few times before I was comfortable to actually install wainscoting for a paying client.
Hey Jordan, I just finished two days ago, for a high end client a stair wainscoting project similar to what you built. thanks very much for taking the time to share the basics of getting a staircase wainscoting. I could not have done it with your expert instruction. This new client was sooo appreciative of my finished product that she will invite be back to do some other projects for her. One counter intuitive is that the width of the panels at 90 degrees to the rake of the stairs are Not the same as the height of the horizontal panels off the floor. Diagonally yes, but not perpendicular. The suggestion for a digital read out sliding T bevel square was a big help also. Wish I could send you pictures of the finished project. Question: what was that idea of brad nailing the 1 x materials into what appeared to be dry wall? First I put 1/4" birch plywood on the wall behind everything to act as a nailable surface and to make the painting look better.
Jordan that sounds like a good Idea. You should also PL the plywood to the drywall. Because the plywood could bow when painting with a water base paint.
I was thinking about adding wainscoting to my staircase when I came across this video. I have not started the wainscoting project yet, but I purchased a Sawset. It works great. I tested it by cutting off the end of a board at a random angle. I then framed the end of the board with casing. I cut the casing at the angle determined by the Sawset on the double miter side. The result was a perfect miter. I am not a carpenter, only a home handyman. I happen to have an old, quality bevel. Most home handymen do not. The Sawset folks may want to consider including one as an option.
This method can be applied anywhere on the stairs. Draw a vertical level line above any stair nosing. Measure vertically approximately 32 inches from the nosing and mark the spot. Now follow Jordan's method. Hope that helps.
Hi new subscriber here If u don't have all these tools can u just put on top rail and then when u put up vertical pieces just mark where they have to be cut against the top rail
Jordan used the rafter square to transfer the measurement down the stairs. So the top of the rail was constant going down stairs. You might have missed it in the video.
Sawset Tools I didn’t miss that. He measured off the stringer/skirting not the actual step tread which would cause a different elevation on the chair rail unless I’m missing something.
sawset thank you very much for the reply! Your trim looks great! In my house I do not have a landing at the top of my stair. Can I start the same process from the bottom? I have some weird transition pieces in my stringer at the top and the bottom so not exactly sure where I should start the measurements. Thanks!
I’m having issues with the molding meeting at the platform. I have an angle at 36 degrees what will be the angel and saw setting going down the stair rail?
I checked the stairs, and there is no separation on the joints. But you are right, gluing is better. Check our other video, we glued there. ruclips.net/video/CBiNl8P8GMs/видео.html
Should the stairs measurements be the same height as the the landing height? I'm thinking yes. I haven't installed the bottom boards yet so may that's why my angle might be out. Could you advise Pls. 🙏? Love Yr work looks fantastic.
Hard to explain. Need to see your stairs. The nosing on your landing verticaly to the top of your rail should be the same as the nosing on the steps verticaly to the top of your rail.
Can you tell me please what you used for this? I have been trying to figure out this exact look hence my project has been stalled for at least 6 months! What did you use for the top board, I assume two different pieces? Excellent work!! Thank you!!! Btw: I ordered a Sawset protractor!!!
When you take the framing square to the bottom of the stairs, is the horizontal part of the square going up the stairs, or is it pointing down the stairs?
That helps, thank you. I ordered the sawset protractor angle finder yesterday and am anxiously awaiting for its arrival so I can get started on my stairway. Thanks again.
I had the same sort of question. I have my height set at the top and bottom of the stairs landing but when I transfer the square to the bottom of the stairs, it doesn’t line up. So the top of the stairs vertical measurement of 830mm does not match the bottom of the stairs measurement of 830mm. Not sure what I’m doing wrong?
Hi Josh, I glued all the flats. The nails are there for support until the glue sets. And its caulked around the perimeter. That's actual over kill. It has been over 3 years and no cracks.
Hi Tina, That method can be applied anywhere on the stairs. Draw a vertical level line above any stair nosing. Measure vertically approximately 32 inches from the nosing and mark the spot. Now follow Jordan's method. Hope that helps.
@@SawsetTools hi ty for the reply..the many mitre saws esp mine taps out at 47 degrees..and my stairs are a 50 degree incline so am scratching my head on how todo a a 50degree cut
Double miter is 2 pieces of wood meeting together like crown molding or base boards. Single miter is 1 piece meeting an angled surface like handrail or spindles.
I loved how simple it looked! I am planning on doing exactly that in my staircase but I could not find the trim profile you use as "chair rail": could you please tell me how it is called and if it is one piece of trim or 2 put together
sorry...just entered "back band" on search and Lowes and HD show some results....but they do not label these as "back band" in the store. I will find it. Thanks again. Great video, I am going to start any day on this project.
@@SawsetTools good was just checking cause I've done mine and they're not the same, just wanted to make sure hahah, by the way........your work is awesome!!!!
My wife wants ours 34.5 inches up. First is easy, then second step gets confusing as you don’t say how high to go. If I went 34.5 inches on step 2 and create angle at bottom of stairs would be around 7 feet tall. So how would I keep the bottom of the chair rail at 34.5 inches using your method?
34.5 upper and lower floor is good measurement. I didn't mention the between dimension because it it is not important. You don't measure the second step. You need to watch the video layout again. I think you are missing a step.
If it was a standard protractor the math is (given angle - 90) then divide by 2 for the saw setting. The Sawset never ever requires math. All miter saws when cutting 90 degrees show 0 degress.
Enjoyed the video but would look much better if your joints were tighter or sanded down to be less visible...or joined before adhering to wall. But good tutorial on the angles/process.
Julie Odin not sure why you find it unreasonable to comment on the joints. It would take this job from a DIY job to a professional. We all get better by doing. Not meant to be disrespectful I’m just pointing it out for others that take this type of project on. But as for angles and process (as I mentioned before) this is an excellent video and appreciate him taking the time to post.
Before he walked down stairs, you can see he marked the framing square, which was transferred on the wall down stairs. The shorter end of the square ran parallel with the stringer.
@@SawsetTools thanks man, I saw that but it would have been helpful to watch, my first time I used my tape with thar measurement from the top of the stringer straight up which was incorrect
Being “plumb” is just trade talk for having used a plumb Bob and line the old fashioned way. Saying vertical line isn’t incorrect if a plumb Bob and line wasn’t used
Amazing, thanks for sharing
Thanks for your positive comment
Love that wainscoting!
Excellent explanation
Thanks, Auzzie?
The simplicity of the angle calculation just saved my sanity
Glad I could help.
Thanks for sharing how to do this. You're detailed instructions really help.
Wow this looks fantastic and you made it look wayyyy too easy. Getting ready do this to my stairs and finding this video is a life saver!
Glad I was helpful.
I’m in the same boat as you! How did yours go!??
Ordering! My husband will love this!
Makes a great stocking stuffer!
Wainscotting made easy. Thank you.
You're welcome!
Doing my panels on the stairs right now you’re the BEST thanks a lots 👍🏽👍🏽👍🏽💪🏽💪🏽💪🏽👌🏽👌🏽👌🏽🙏🏽🙏🏽😘
Thanks.
Love your emojis.
Very informative and easy to follow the step by step instructions. That sawset tool is easy to use and eliminates errors. Thx!
Thank you.
Job well done
Thanks
This was a great presentation and simplified the process of calculating irregular angles using your saw set tool. Will order one today.
Thanks for your input!
@@SawsetTools
Where to oder saw set
@@brainoloughlin7628 go to our website, sawset.ca There are several options there to purchase one.
We recently had baseboard heaters removed from each room in our house. I was thinking I would call in the professionals to install new trim however after watching your video I think as an aspiring woodworker I will tackle it myself. I can see now how a sliding bevel and Sawset tool are your best friends for all sorts of trim work. Thanks for the inspiration.
Thanks for your comment!
Excellent video - thank you for sharing your expertise. We’re looking at adding some wainscoting and this video was so helpful!
Thanks, I enjoyed making it. Take your time doing your wainscoting. Be safe.
Feeling confident about having a go at this myself this weekend. Was going to get a carpenter in but going to go with it. Thank you
Glad we could be helpful.
Take your time.
Awesome, what a great and helpful video!!
Thanks Gavin
Great video!
Thanks. Hope you find it helpful.
Excellent Video !
Thanks, Craig
Great tool.
Thanks Matt.
I love it! Great job.
Thanks.
Love the mask.
Stay safe.
Great video. Exactly what I needed
Glad I could help.
Really cool technique - we're doing wainscotting now in our house and this was super useful!
Thanks
I just used this method to do my stairs and it turned out great. If your baseboard on landing and on steps line up (as it does on this video) you can just put the angle finder there instead of doing the geometry on wall. It will be the same angle as both rails will run parallel. Thanks for posting this video as there aren’t many in this topic.
Good point! Thanks
Nice Work...
Great job
Thanks.
Check out "How to install CROWN MOLDING using Sawset"
Thanks u made it look easy
Thanks for the compliment.
Great video. They make digital t bevels too 💪👍
At last a tutorial that I understand
Glad I can help.
Perfect!
Thanks
Man I wished i could do this. Amazing
I'm sure could if you tried.
Hello Lee, Yes you can. Try some how to practice first. Maybe a scaled down version. Or at least lay it out on paper first. My success full project was layed out on the computer and on paper a few times before I was comfortable to actually install wainscoting for a paying client.
@@thetoolman3355 do the diagonal and verticle risers have to be the same height?
I'm just in the middle of planning mine
This is great!
Hey Jordan, I just finished two days ago, for a high end client a stair wainscoting project similar to what you built. thanks very much for taking the time to share the basics of getting a staircase wainscoting. I could not have done it with your expert instruction. This new client was sooo appreciative of my finished product that she will invite be back to do some other projects for her. One counter intuitive is that the width of the panels at 90 degrees to the rake of the stairs are Not the same as the height of the horizontal panels off the floor. Diagonally yes, but not perpendicular. The suggestion for a digital read out sliding T bevel square was a big help also. Wish I could send you pictures of the finished project.
Question: what was that idea of brad nailing the 1 x materials into what appeared to be dry wall? First I put 1/4" birch plywood on the wall behind everything to act as a nailable surface and to make the painting look better.
Jordan that sounds like a good Idea.
You should also PL the plywood to the drywall.
Because the plywood could bow when painting with a water base paint.
Ordering!
You'll find it very useful
thanks john
You are welcome.
Helpful, thanks.
You're welcome!
Awesome!! Subscribed! Ps I wanna be your friend. 😆😄 You explained everything so well and in a calming tone.
Thanks man.
Love your enthusiasm.
Way cool tool.
I was thinking about adding wainscoting to my staircase when I came across this video. I have not started the wainscoting project yet, but I purchased a Sawset. It works great. I tested it by cutting off the end of a board at a random angle. I then framed the end of the board with casing. I cut the casing at the angle determined by the Sawset on the double miter side. The result was a perfect miter. I am not a carpenter, only a home handyman. I happen to have an old, quality bevel. Most home handymen do not. The Sawset folks may want to consider including one as an option.
Thanks for your comment, James. Yes, we have considered that but shipping cost is expensive and big box stores carry inexpensive T-bevels.
Where did you purchase the top chair rail and board for top edge, or did you glue those two together to make the rail top before cutting angles.
this is a great video so well explained. My question is i will need to put my stair rail on the wall where would the placement be?
This method can be applied anywhere on the stairs.
Draw a vertical level line above any stair nosing.
Measure vertically approximately 32 inches from the nosing and mark the spot.
Now follow Jordan's method.
Hope that helps.
Hi i am from England (Uk) what is that mould shape called that you used i love the look of it
I used a combo of 1 x 4 and a back-band molding.
Also did you paint the wall instead of using panel boards between vertical boards.
You are right. I glued a back-band to MDF, and painted the drywall.
Hi new subscriber here
If u don't have all these tools can u just put on top rail and then when u put up vertical pieces just mark where they have to be cut against the top rail
Yes you can.
But you may not have a tight fit.
@@thetoolman3355 thanks
Hello! What size was your backband to make the chair rail?
What is the name or style of chair rail molding did you use.
Back Band trim on top of 3.5 x .75 MDF
Awesome thanks
Looks great but I have a question. Does the height of the chair rail get smaller when your on the angled part of the steps?
Jordan used the rafter square to transfer the measurement down the stairs.
So the top of the rail was constant going down stairs.
You might have missed it in the video.
Sawset Tools I didn’t miss that. He measured off the stringer/skirting not the actual step tread which would cause a different elevation on the chair rail unless I’m missing something.
@@adamdemartinis72The shorter arm of the rafter square needs to run parallel with the stringer.
Is the horizontal mark 32” from the top of your baseboard or the floor/carpet?
sawset thank you very much for the reply! Your trim looks great! In my house I do not have a landing at the top of my stair. Can I start the same process from the bottom? I have some weird transition pieces in my stringer at the top and the bottom so not exactly sure where I should start the measurements. Thanks!
What size of nail gun is that 18 gauge ? Great work btw.
18 gauge is what I use. 16 gauge makes the surface raise around the hole. Thanks
What kind of trim is that you’re using on the chair rail portion?
4x1 MDF and Backband Trim.
What size of molding you used?
3.5 inches.
I’m having issues with the molding meeting at the platform. I have an angle at 36 degrees what will be the angel and saw setting going down the stair rail?
Where did you get that chair molding?
Backband and and flat MDF glued together.
Very nice , but why u don’t use glue for the joints
I checked the stairs, and there is no separation on the joints.
But you are right, gluing is better. Check our other video, we glued there. ruclips.net/video/CBiNl8P8GMs/видео.html
Should the stairs measurements be the same height as the the landing height? I'm thinking yes.
I haven't installed the bottom boards yet so may that's why my angle might be out.
Could you advise Pls. 🙏?
Love Yr work looks fantastic.
Hard to explain. Need to see your stairs.
The nosing on your landing verticaly to the top of your rail should be the same as the nosing on the steps verticaly to the top of your rail.
@@SawsetTools thanks for replying much appreciated.
Can you tell me please what you used for this? I have been trying to figure out this exact look hence my project has been stalled for at least 6 months! What did you use for the top board, I assume two different pieces? Excellent work!! Thank you!!! Btw: I ordered a Sawset protractor!!!
Hi Gina,
I used a 1x4 MDF board for top and vertical
The top had an additional Back-band glued on.
All box Stores sell Back-band.
Hi, can you tell me where you got your backband and did you have to order it?
You can buy back-band at Lowes or Home depot.
We bought ours at a local lumber store.
The back ban was glued on a 1"x 4" MDF to make a chair rail.
When you take the framing square to the bottom of the stairs, is the horizontal part of the square going up the stairs, or is it pointing down the stairs?
Sorry, we should of shown the shot below.
It is placed in the same position at the bottom of the stairs as the top.
Hope that helps.
That helps, thank you. I ordered the sawset protractor angle finder yesterday and am anxiously awaiting for its arrival so I can get started on my stairway. Thanks again.
I had the same sort of question. I have my height set at the top and bottom of the stairs landing but when I transfer the square to the bottom of the stairs, it doesn’t line up. So the top of the stairs vertical measurement of 830mm does not match the bottom of the stairs measurement of 830mm. Not sure what I’m doing wrong?
Would you still by an chance have a list of wood used?
We used a standard Back-band and 1x4 MDF boards.
Hope that helps.
@@SawsetTools I was specifically trying to figure out the top rail?
@@petespost The top rail was a Back-band glued to the MDF.
Back band comes in different profiles.
@@SawsetTools But you nailed the stiles. How did you fill those nail holes?
@@petespost Drywall compound.
Sands easily.
Any worries of not nailing into studs? It looks like you glued the rail up, but I didn’t see glue on the vertical pieces.
Hi Josh,
I glued all the flats.
The nails are there for support until the glue sets.
And its caulked around the perimeter.
That's actual over kill.
It has been over 3 years and no cracks.
Like 👌
Thanks
My landing is at the bottom. I need to measure up the stairs. How do I do that?
tina faulk with a tape measure
Aled Caebwd. . .If you didn’t know, no need to respond. Thanks for nothing!
tina faulk though my comment was originally sarcastic, it is factually true.
Aled Caebwd
No shit Sherlock. It’s very different when you’re going up the stairs. You’re not so clever after all.
Hi Tina,
That method can be applied anywhere on the stairs.
Draw a vertical level line above any stair nosing.
Measure vertically approximately 32 inches from the nosing and mark the spot.
Now follow Jordan's method.
Hope that helps.
My height at the bottom of the stairs isnt the same at the top have i done the chalk line wrong?
Wish I was there to see where the problem is.
Measure diagonal upper and lower stairs.
When the stairs is 50 degree mitre cuts how would u do it thx
All miter saws do cut 50 degrees.
Not sure the question.
@@SawsetTools hi ty for the reply..the many mitre saws esp mine taps out at 47 degrees..and my stairs are a 50 degree incline so am scratching my head on how todo a a 50degree cut
@@dangerscouser Thanks for the info.
3 degrees is a lot.
Is it a old saw?
I am trying to buy your protractor but seems it is unavailable? Also, can you explain the "double" vs "single" miter?
Where are you located?
We sell them through Amazon.ca or .com.
Also you can buy it through Sawset.ca
We mailed them as far as Australia.
Double miter is 2 pieces of wood meeting together like crown molding or base boards.
Single miter is 1 piece meeting an angled surface like handrail or spindles.
How do you decide the spacing between the horizontal planks?
Not more than 4 ft center to center.
I just space them equally to what looks good to me.
Not sure if that helps.
@@SawsetTools oh perfect, I’m going to be doing my full hall and stairs and wasn’t sure about the distance, thanks 😊
Question. Your height at top. Is it also the same height you used at bottom? 32 inch?
Upper landing and lower landing is the same, 32 inches.
@@SawsetTools thank you for response on an older video. I am sorting out design with higher lower lever 56 inch at bottom and 48 on top
That would work as well. Wish I could see it when complete.
Just sorting out angles is the pain.
Great job! What width did you use for the wood?
We used 3.5 in. MDF for most of it and 5.5 in. MDF for the baseboards on the floor. Thanks for the compliment.
How much would this cost
When you say “double mitered” vs single, does that simply mean two mitered pieces coming together versus mitering only one piece to fit a space?
Yes, you describe it better then me.
Thanks
I loved how simple it looked! I am planning on doing exactly that in my staircase but I could not find the trim profile you use as "chair rail": could you please tell me how it is called and if it is one piece of trim or 2 put together
I used .75 x 3.5 MDF and a Back Band that comes in different profiles.
And glued them together.
Any Box Stores carry both products.
@@SawsetTools Thank you! But what is a "back band" it is not a word I have seen in the molding aisle. Could it be called something else?
sorry...just entered "back band" on search and Lowes and HD show some results....but they do not label these as "back band" in the store. I will find it. Thanks again. Great video, I am going to start any day on this project.
@@isabellesabourin5767 Check out your local lumber store if you can't find what you want in the big box store.
@@SawsetTools i will. Thank you
caulk is the answer
Plan B works.
What did you use to fill the nail holes on the pvc without painting it?
Stupid question....would the verticle styles be the same height as the horizontal ones?
I'm using 1 x 4 MDF for both. The horizontal ones have a additional Back Band molding.
If that is not what you are asking, ask again.
@@SawsetTools kind of,
The horizontal spacers.....are they the same height as the vertical spacers?
Sorry I'm trying to make it make sense ha
@@kennethalbinson3581 Most likely different. There are no rules.
Google wainscoting images and see which one looks appealing to you.
@@SawsetTools good was just checking cause I've done mine and they're not the same, just wanted to make sure hahah, by the way........your work is awesome!!!!
@@kennethalbinson3581 Thanks
My wife wants ours 34.5 inches up. First is easy, then second step gets confusing as you don’t say how high to go. If I went 34.5 inches on step 2 and create angle at bottom of stairs would be around 7 feet tall.
So how would I keep the bottom of the chair rail at 34.5 inches using your method?
34.5 upper and lower floor is good measurement. I didn't mention the between dimension because it it is not important. You don't measure the second step. You need to watch the video layout again. I think you are missing a step.
@@SawsetTools I do cus then I don’t have 34.5 per step. I got it though using good old Pythagorean thereom
@@nighttrain316 Hi Peter,
I had to look up "Pythagorean theorem." If It works, great.
Ed
Can't use just divide that measurement by 2 and that's you miter cut? That's assuming your reading you miter saw correctly, 0 is really a 90
If it was a standard protractor the math is (given angle - 90) then divide by 2 for the saw setting.
The Sawset never ever requires math.
All miter saws when cutting 90 degrees show 0 degress.
@@SawsetTools thanks so much, I wish you had a video on how you determine the spacing of the vertical boards
@@dshudson 48 inches or less.
Whatever looks good to you.
Enjoyed the video but would look much better if your joints were tighter or sanded down to be less visible...or joined before adhering to wall. But good tutorial on the angles/process.
Dick
This is the best tutorial video on this subject out there, great job
Julie Odin not sure why you find it unreasonable to comment on the joints. It would take this job from a DIY job to a professional. We all get better by doing. Not meant to be disrespectful I’m just pointing it out for others that take this type of project on. But as for angles and process (as I mentioned before) this is an excellent video and appreciate him taking the time to post.
Ironically you didn't show the most important part, you just walked down the stairs, where do I place the framing square for the last part?
Before he walked down stairs, you can see he marked the framing square, which was transferred on the wall down stairs.
The shorter end of the square ran parallel with the stringer.
@@SawsetTools thanks man, I saw that but it would have been helpful to watch, my first time I used my tape with thar measurement from the top of the stringer straight up which was incorrect
@@dshudson Your right.
We should have shown the framing square placed.
That DeWalt saw didn’t look like it had accurate settings to 1/2 or 1/4 inch with the big knob.
Perceptive. You could be right, or it's the angle of the camera.
21.5 ishh x2 = 43.25... no math needed but it can confirm the tool's reading
Very good job. But for the record let your listeners know that a vertical level line is a PLUMB LINE.
Thanks for your in suggestion.
Being “plumb” is just trade talk for having used a plumb Bob and line the old fashioned way. Saying vertical line isn’t incorrect if a plumb Bob and line wasn’t used
Is it just me or did anyone else notice he started his first miter to wrong?
Looks so bad lol, every joint is off
Wrong layout technique 😮Sorry
Hi Ed ,There is more than one way. This is the most accurate. My opinion.