Bill, your videos are without a doubt the absolute very best rod building videos out there. Not only do I appreciate you sharing your knowledge here with us, your humble and down to earth demeanor is refreshing.
Great video, never thought of using a hard backing piece for the sandpaper. Several recurring finishing issues I deal with should be taken care of with the methods you demonstrated. Many thanks! Big John's Rod Repair.
Hi Bill, i'm just starting out in rod building and repairs. I've found your videos very informative. As you have said, doing it properly from the beginning is essential & being taught that i'm grateful. Thanks Steve, Australia Cheers
Cheers Steve! And welcome to the channel. Thank you for watching - please like and subscribe! So glad the videos are helpful...please let me know if you have questions or if there are other topics you'd like to see covered. Thanks!
@@masteringrodbuilding Already had, there will be lots that you've posted to keep me going for a long time. Really enjoying all there is to building rods. Cheers Stevo
Your techniques are so helpful. Iv’e learned so much refinement from you. I’ve been waiting for this one because I make mistakes. Thank you so much!!!!
Thanks for watching, Paul. So...I don't do many repairs or restorations candidly. But I will be on the lookout for a video project opportunity! If there are specific parts of the process giving you trouble let me know and I'll see if I can help.
@@masteringrodbuilding Thanks Bill i have nothing specific giving me problems,just thought it might give you another idea.Tight threads and smooth finishes.Stay safe.Paul.
Really enjoy the video's, I find your explanations easy to understand and I get a good grasp of the techniques described. I know my next build will be better because of your video's. As per the Danny P below I would also like to see something on epoxy ramps.
If you can believe it I've never down an epoxy ramp...at least not that I remember. But we can figure it out together. Are you looking for epoxy ramps like for a fly rod to make the grip taper to the blank? Or are you wanting to learn heavy duty offshore rod type epoxy ramps on something like leather grips? Thanks!
@@masteringrodbuilding Sorry didn't see your response until today. I am building an Ultra Light spinning rod with Carbon Fiber split grip. I found aluminum winding checks for the split grip but could not find a match for the fore grip. The two I ordered are a good color match but way to small in comparison to the ones for the split grip. I thought of an epoxy ramp and then cover with a metallic thread. I've seen a few video's unfortunately they are not as easy to follow as yours are. I don't think its particularly difficult so when I start the rod I'm going to give it a try
Hey Randall...and thanks for watching. Can you be more specific with question 1 - at what point are you wanting to wipe down with Isopropyl Alcohol? After sanding to make a level surface? As for question two, dawn and water are great for washing your hands before entering the shop. I would NEVER EVER EVER let a surfactant - like a detergent (Dawn) - anywhere near a rod. Unless I was washing a naked blank before starting a build or washing a dirty completed rod after a fishing trip. Dawn is exactly the type of contaminant that will ruin your life. You'd probably need to rinse with a gallon of water at least to remove all traces of Dawn. I would NEVER let it get anywhere near an area I was attempting to finish with epoxy.
@@masteringrodbuilding I agree about Dawn. It's a great general purpose degreaser. but keep it away from epoxy. I'll also add that you want to be careful to avoid having any water/moisture contaminate your epoxy/finish work. If you need to bulk clean an area - like where you had to remove a bad decal - I've had to use a solvent like goo-gone, then water wash with detergent, then wipe down with IPA. Here is the key that I believe is helpful and often missed... When wiping down with DA or IPA use a low lint applicator like kimwipes (heck even coffee filters work) AND wipe then turn to a new surface that hasn't touched the rod for your next wipe. Think like your cleaning an optical lens. Be thorough and disciplined in always wiping with a clean rag/wipe/etc. Lastly, let the IPA evaporate or preferably wipe with new dry kimwipe and I also will blow the area with dry compressed air (from a can). All this before laying down finish epoxy! And like Bill says "keep your shop clean!"
I thank you very much for the video, very interesting and professional. I wanted to please ask about the sanding, is it possible to move a damp cloth after the sanding or it may cause problems ? Thanks in advance
Hello Y L 777 - thanks for watching. I do not ever use a damp cloth. A dry paper towel - as demonstrated in this video - works great. So why add moisture? When you add moisture - whether you use a solvent or water - you introduce potential contaminants. Put simply, it's just not necessary. So why take the risk? If you use clean sandpaper and have clean hands all you have to do is wipe with a dry paper towel and finish it again. So do whatever works for you...but I personally NEVER wipe down with a damp cloth.
So...thankfully I don't have much experience with inadvertently sanding too far. I am very, very careful with it. However, I have done it. Once I simply sanded into some black tie off threads. Those I was able to recoat, trim the fuzzies, and do a final coat and it looked fine. The other time I did it I sanded into a metallic trim thread. By sanding it took the finish off the metallic and revealed the dull, non-metallic core. On that one I had to pull off and start over. So go slow and be careful! Less is more for sure.
Your videos has been a great help to me in mixing and applying my finish. I watch them before I do a guide wrap and butt wrap until I am consistant in doing everything the same way every single time. Thanks
When repairing long uneven butt wraps rather than spraying with condensed air could I wipe with a lintless towel and a little water? Allow to fully dry. I don't have access to a compressor. I could opt for a can of duster, I just have water and lintless cloth on hand.
Thanks for watching - please like and subscribe! So...you can absolutely use a can duster or even just the lint free cloth. I would NOT wipe with water - or any solvent/liquid. I have had weird results/contamination a few times after doing that. The other option is to take a piece of masking tape, double it over into a loop sticky side out, and just dab it all over to pick up debris. The finish will actually make the sanding dust disappear when you reapply...you only need to ensure all lint/foreing particles are removed. Make sense?
@@masteringrodbuilding absolutely. Thank you. I'm going to do some work on two rods I made this weekend. I thought I wasn't using enough finish that it had to be laid on thick to level so I put even more on the second and the results were worse. Lol I learned less is more and also don't try to rush and use up finish that's beginning to gel. I appreciate your tip. Liking and subscribing now. 😎
Hey Bill, just wanted to say thanks for the great videos you post, they're extremely informative and easy to follow for a novice rodbuilder. I admire the butt wraps you do and your dragonscale tutorial was excellent. I noticed on this video you had some beautiful tiger wraps you had done. Do you think you could do a series on tiger wraps? I have watched quite a few and everyone seems to do them differently, but yours are some of the best looking ones i've seen. It would be great if you could give some insight on thread choices and methods if you don't mind. Keep up the good work!!
Great video, thanks! Wondering about the fix for uneven finish... Once you get the rod flat with the 600 grit, instead of putting another coat of finish could you take the sanding up to 1000/1500/2000 then rubbing compound. I mean, once the area is flat and you completed with 600 at that point you could even use the lathe to turn the rod. Going through the progressions of higher grit sandpaper/rubbing compound would go fairly quick. I have used that progression to clean the area of a rod where I had to remove a guide/epoxy and get back to the original rod finish. Seems like it would work here as well. Just a though...
Thanks for watching - please like and subscribe! You are EXACTLY right. There is always more than one way to do anything and what you are calling out is probably the better mousetrap if you have the equipment and are willing to go to the trouble. You can continue to sand and polish after 600 grit exactly as you describe. The only thing I'd add is that once you get to 1000 grit and above wet sanding seems to work best. And obviously you have to have a lathe that will turn a long one piece rod, have to appropriately support the rod at speed, deal with rods that are warped, etc. etc. etc. But yes - that method works great. For me it was messy and a lot of trouble relative to this method - and it is easier to sand too far and get in trouble - but it definitely yields an even better result. In fact I use that method for presentation rods (although I don't do many). For what it is worth, I learned that method from Mark Crouse, aka The Munich Rod Man, who is a very accomplished builder of some renown. Mark has found that this polishing technique is the only true way to get a perfectly dead level finish. He uses this method on his rods. In my opinion Mark is extremely well rounded and does beautiful work of all kinds but his butt wrap finish is in fact dead level due to the polishing technique. And like I said - I will do it on presentation rods that aren't for fishing. But I don't go the trouble otherwise. Mark once posted a quick SBS tutorial on Facebook of his method at one point...I'll see if I can find it. Please feel free to add any other tips and tricks (including which rubbing compound you like) here. I'm sure there are some who are interested and willing to go to the trouble. I'd love to know what method you are using - we can all learn something!
@@masteringrodbuilding Yes, I switch to wet sanding once I go higher than 600 grit. As far as rubbing compound goes I have used several but keep coming back to just plain turtle wax brand. One note about the compound though - you have to work it in. It's not polish compound! Thanks for doing these videos - they are very well done and thought out.
So…Acetone is a very useful solvent for many things. However, experience has taught me personally that introducing ANY solvent creates more problems than it solves. So based on my personal experience I would say NO ACETONE. And remember that simply coating with another coat solves the problem…so no need to do any other extra steps.
You are the man!!!! I was nervous about trying to sand my wavy finish and try again. You have given me the courage to attempt to try and see if I can get it fixed correctly. I just received my Gen4 this week with bubble release and blue tint. I tried it on a sample wrap just to see difference between pro kote and the Gen4. Now I see the difference. I'm not saying anything bad about pro kote but there is a difference. I have only used pro kote until this week and I agree you can get a good finish with it with practice but man that Gen4 is a better quality finish it lays better and crystal clear. Even makes my amateur wraps look really good. As always quick question have you ever used barber's razor the kind that goes in ole timey razor like my dad use to use. Gotta watch it cause there's blade on both sides but they seem to be much sharper than single. Just thought I'd ask. By the way great video looking forward to the next. Thanks again and tight lines.
Thanks for watching Paul. Yeah...the Gen4 stuff is pretty awesome. Very easy to use and a great look when finished. I have used double edged safety razors before. In fact I've used them several times over the years. And you are correct - they are WAY sharper than single edge razor blades. The problem - to me - is that they are very hard to handle. They are hard to pick up, hard to put down, hard to move around...you just have to be really careful. They are also very flexible and it can be very easy to dig into the wrap when trying to trim fuzzies. They also dull very quickly compared to single edged blades. But you can absolutely use them. If you do use them, I like to take a pair of tin snips or heavy scissors and cut them in half down the middle - so you end up with two pieces with a razor edge on one side. I then wrap the non-edged side with masking tape to kind of give myself a handle. Hope this help.
Hi Bill. Thanks for your efforts in making such informative videos. So clear and concise. I have a query about restoring the surface of a blank so that it can be rebuilt. In previous efforts, I end up with residue from the earlier bindings that can really only be removed by sanding and that"s not a good thing as you then have a dull spot on a glossy blank. Any thoughts on the matter would be greatly appreciated.
So...in my experience it sort of depends on the blank. Some blanks - those with a very hard coating or that are simply polished graphite - can usually have all the residue removed by gently warming it and scraping it with either your thumbnail or a plastic picnic knife. That will work a lot of the time. But if it doesn't, you are right - you may have to sand. If you end up having to go that route, a urethane finish like permagloss is the best coating for the blank. You can also pay to have the blank professionally painted as an option. Hope that helps!
Have any advice about making epoxy "ramps" like leading up to a fore grip? This was another great video... I really think my next rod will end up better off! Loved that red dragon scale wrap too. Might have to try that soon also... I got a ton of comments on those two surf rods I built with the 40cm dragon scale wraps I sent you pics of months ago. Thanks again!
Those Dragonscales do get attention. Yours looked great. There are lots of colors of leaf...I think they sell most of it as imitation silver leaf (vs. gold leaf). But give it a whirl. On the epoxy ramps, are you looking for instruction on light duty freshwater/inshore/fly rods? Or are you looking for the heavy duty offshore type ramps? Thanks!
@@masteringrodbuilding I was thinking light duty freshwater/inshore/fly rods. Usually spinning rods have some kind of foregrip and a little ramp where the dec wrap meets the grip. I actually bought those little aluminum winding checks to try on a travel rod that I am building now. Those dragonscales really do get a lot of attention. I think I have some red in the package I got when I did the first ones. I bought exactly what you linked to in those videos. Turned out pretty good for a first try.
Danny P I think they turned out awesome period...regardless how many tries! I normally use winding checks but I’ll put an epoxy ramp tutorial on the list...thanks!
Great video as everyone states! Question - do you ever build an epoxy ramp - then apply thread as a winding check - I do it quite often but it is time consuming- any tips or tricks - if you do this😂
Thanks for watching…please like and subscribe! I use Sakura Gelly Roll Gel Pens in Metallic Silver, Metallic Gold, white and black. I typically wait at least 4 hours (and usually overnight) before applying finish. You can find them here: www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00K3KRQQ8/ref=psdcmw_1069828_t3_B00IHWGG4W Also - I cover the pens and how to use them in detail in this video: m.ruclips.net/video/QsUkiIV-pSw/видео.html Hope this helps. The pen makes its appearance at the 15:30 mark.
I’m having such a hard time with micro bubbles...I’ve learned to keep my first coat super thin to help release bubbles from the thread, but I hate to apply multiple thin coats (2~3) afterwards instead of a thicker coat just to avoid introducing micro bubbles. And when I make my 2nd coat (or coats after my 1st coat) too thick, I see micro bubbles that I just can’t get rid of no matter what. I’m currently using Thread Master High Build and applying with Brush. Any advice is greatly appreciated!
Thanks for watching...please like and subscribe. So, this will sound harsh but if you have bubbles you are introducing them somehow - most likely with your mixing. How are you mixing? You may also be introducing bubbles with your brush. Have you modified your brush technique? Or tried a spatula? A few bubbles are okay but you should not be getting tons of bubbles. If you are - regardless of finish - you need to modify your technique. That said, bubbles are very easily dealt with by a quick application of heat from an alcohol torch or a cigarette lighter. Have you tried warming slightly on the guide wrap to remove the micro bubbles? That works really well for me. I have ZERO problems with bubbles. Finally, that is not a finish I endorse or recommend. If you have not tried it, get regular high build Gen4 and give it a try. It releases bubbles like nothing I've ever seen. I'd be SHOCKED if you continue to have micro bubble problems with that finish. Give it the regular high build a try...I think you'll be pleased. Hope this helps!
@@masteringrodbuilding thank you so much for the tips! My dilemma is especially on heavier build guide wraps that take more time to do multiple guides in one mix and trying to get things right at the same time. Although sometimes I’m confused to understand where these tiny bubbles come from, on more than a few occasions I understand it’s from over extending my application time frame, where it gets too thick for the bubbles to surface (hard to stop myself sometimes cuz I don’t like to waste epoxy! I’m at fault I know 😓) I’ve incorporated your spatula technique on smaller guides, but I would really like to see how you would go about doing heavier builds such as popping rods and trolling rods (high in demand in my area) with under wraps. In the meantime I’m definitely going to try out the Gen4 epoxy! Your videos are truly a lifesaver and I’m simply a fan of you and your work! Thank you again for offering the BEST rod building videos on RUclips 🙏 Your expertise and detailed explanations are a big help!
We've all been there. But I have never had it happen (knock on wood) since I switched to the Fuji wire chucks. I get mine from Ron Weber at Southwest Custom Rods and they are a game changer.
@@masteringrodbuilding I did. It was a gaff actually. At some point the night counter weight slipped and it pulled the gaff off of the roller. Was the final coat of a snowflake wrap.
Bill, your videos are without a doubt the absolute very best rod building videos out there. Not only do I appreciate you sharing your knowledge here with us, your humble and down to earth demeanor is refreshing.
Thanks Carlos. So glad you find them helpful. I appreciate the feedback.
Please like and subscribe if you haven't already!
Great video, never thought of using a hard backing piece for the sandpaper. Several recurring finishing issues I deal with should be taken care of with the methods you demonstrated. Many thanks!
Big John's Rod Repair.
You are most welcome - hope these tips help. Good luck...and please like and subscribe. Thank you!
Hi Bill, i'm just starting out in rod building and repairs. I've found your videos very informative.
As you have said, doing it properly from the beginning is essential & being taught that i'm grateful.
Thanks
Steve, Australia
Cheers
Cheers Steve! And welcome to the channel. Thank you for watching - please like and subscribe! So glad the videos are helpful...please let me know if you have questions or if there are other topics you'd like to see covered. Thanks!
@@masteringrodbuilding
Already had, there will be lots that you've posted to keep me going for a long time.
Really enjoying all there is to building rods.
Cheers Stevo
Thanx 4 Taking The Time & Effort. Jeff From KS
Thanks for watching! Please like and subscribe.
Cannot thank you enough! It's like you were here in the shop looking at my coat mistakes
Great to hear!
Very cool friend. I was perplexed about this rod I did, until this!! Thank you
Thanks for the helpful reply to my comment. I have done the same. Recouated and trimmed the fuzzy projections and started again. Regards, Frank
Your techniques are so helpful. Iv’e learned so much refinement from you. I’ve been waiting for this one because I make mistakes. Thank you so much!!!!
Thanks for watching...so glad it's helpful.
Thank you, Sir! Informative and enjoyable. Your style of delivery is fantastic!
Thanks for watching, Jon. Appreciate the feedback.
Thanks again another great vid.Could you do some shows on complete redoes of older fishing rods,take apart to complete finish.Thanks Paul
Thanks for watching, Paul. So...I don't do many repairs or restorations candidly. But I will be on the lookout for a video project opportunity!
If there are specific parts of the process giving you trouble let me know and I'll see if I can help.
@@masteringrodbuilding Thanks Bill i have nothing specific giving me problems,just thought it might give you another idea.Tight threads and smooth finishes.Stay safe.Paul.
Really enjoy the video's, I find your explanations easy to understand and I get a good grasp of the techniques described. I know my next build will be better because of your video's. As per the Danny P below I would also like to see something on epoxy ramps.
If you can believe it I've never down an epoxy ramp...at least not that I remember. But we can figure it out together. Are you looking for epoxy ramps like for a fly rod to make the grip taper to the blank? Or are you wanting to learn heavy duty offshore rod type epoxy ramps on something like leather grips? Thanks!
@@masteringrodbuilding Sorry didn't see your response until today. I am building an Ultra Light spinning rod with Carbon Fiber split grip. I found aluminum winding checks for the split grip but could not find a match for the fore grip. The two I ordered are a good color match but way to small in comparison to the ones for the split grip. I thought of an epoxy ramp and then cover with a metallic thread. I've seen a few video's unfortunately they are not as easy to follow as yours are. I don't think its particularly difficult so when I start the rod I'm going to give it a try
Great video Bill, thank you for sharing your wisdom !
Thanks, Nick. Hope you are well...and catching fish!
Another great instructional video by FCR.
Couple questions,
1) whats wrong with wiping clean with ISO ?
2) what about using dawn and water ?
Hey Randall...and thanks for watching.
Can you be more specific with question 1 - at what point are you wanting to wipe down with Isopropyl Alcohol? After sanding to make a level surface?
As for question two, dawn and water are great for washing your hands before entering the shop. I would NEVER EVER EVER let a surfactant - like a detergent (Dawn) - anywhere near a rod. Unless I was washing a naked blank before starting a build or washing a dirty completed rod after a fishing trip. Dawn is exactly the type of contaminant that will ruin your life. You'd probably need to rinse with a gallon of water at least to remove all traces of Dawn. I would NEVER let it get anywhere near an area I was attempting to finish with epoxy.
@@masteringrodbuilding I agree about Dawn. It's a great general purpose degreaser. but keep it away from epoxy. I'll also add that you want to be careful to avoid having any water/moisture contaminate your epoxy/finish work. If you need to bulk clean an area - like where you had to remove a bad decal - I've had to use a solvent like goo-gone, then water wash with detergent, then wipe down with IPA. Here is the key that I believe is helpful and often missed... When wiping down with DA or IPA use a low lint applicator like kimwipes (heck even coffee filters work) AND wipe then turn to a new surface that hasn't touched the rod for your next wipe. Think like your cleaning an optical lens. Be thorough and disciplined in always wiping with a clean rag/wipe/etc. Lastly, let the IPA evaporate or preferably wipe with new dry kimwipe and I also will blow the area with dry compressed air (from a can). All this before laying down finish epoxy! And like Bill says "keep your shop clean!"
Another great video. Thanks for sharing!
I thank you very much for the video, very interesting and professional. I wanted to please ask about the sanding, is it possible to move a damp cloth after the sanding or it may cause problems ? Thanks in advance
Hello Y L 777 - thanks for watching. I do not ever use a damp cloth. A dry paper towel - as demonstrated in this video - works great. So why add moisture?
When you add moisture - whether you use a solvent or water - you introduce potential contaminants. Put simply, it's just not necessary. So why take the risk? If you use clean sandpaper and have clean hands all you have to do is wipe with a dry paper towel and finish it again.
So do whatever works for you...but I personally NEVER wipe down with a damp cloth.
@@masteringrodbuilding O.K - THANK YOU !!!
A very instructive video. However, can you recover if you inadvertently sand into the threads and get fuzzies all over the wrap? Thank you, Frank
So...thankfully I don't have much experience with inadvertently sanding too far. I am very, very careful with it. However, I have done it.
Once I simply sanded into some black tie off threads. Those I was able to recoat, trim the fuzzies, and do a final coat and it looked fine.
The other time I did it I sanded into a metallic trim thread. By sanding it took the finish off the metallic and revealed the dull, non-metallic core. On that one I had to pull off and start over. So go slow and be careful! Less is more for sure.
Thanks!
Your videos has been a great help to me in mixing and applying my finish. I watch them before I do a guide wrap and butt wrap until I am consistant in doing everything the same way every single time. Thanks
When repairing long uneven butt wraps rather than spraying with condensed air could I wipe with a lintless towel and a little water? Allow to fully dry. I don't have access to a compressor. I could opt for a can of duster, I just have water and lintless cloth on hand.
Thanks for watching - please like and subscribe! So...you can absolutely use a can duster or even just the lint free cloth. I would NOT wipe with water - or any solvent/liquid. I have had weird results/contamination a few times after doing that.
The other option is to take a piece of masking tape, double it over into a loop sticky side out, and just dab it all over to pick up debris. The finish will actually make the sanding dust disappear when you reapply...you only need to ensure all lint/foreing particles are removed. Make sense?
@@masteringrodbuilding absolutely. Thank you. I'm going to do some work on two rods I made this weekend. I thought I wasn't using enough finish that it had to be laid on thick to level so I put even more on the second and the results were worse. Lol I learned less is more and also don't try to rush and use up finish that's beginning to gel. I appreciate your tip. Liking and subscribing now. 😎
Hey Bill, just wanted to say thanks for the great videos you post, they're extremely informative and easy to follow for a novice rodbuilder. I admire the butt wraps you do and your dragonscale tutorial was excellent. I noticed on this video you had some beautiful tiger wraps you had done. Do you think you could do a series on tiger wraps? I have watched quite a few and everyone seems to do them differently, but yours are some of the best looking ones i've seen. It would be great if you could give some insight on thread choices and methods if you don't mind. Keep up the good work!!
You are most welcome - thanks for the feedback. So glad the videos are helpful. I will add Tigers to the list! Appreciate the suggestion.
Great video, thanks! Wondering about the fix for uneven finish... Once you get the rod flat with the 600 grit, instead of putting another coat of finish could you take the sanding up to 1000/1500/2000 then rubbing compound. I mean, once the area is flat and you completed with 600 at that point you could even use the lathe to turn the rod. Going through the progressions of higher grit sandpaper/rubbing compound would go fairly quick. I have used that progression to clean the area of a rod where I had to remove a guide/epoxy and get back to the original rod finish. Seems like it would work here as well. Just a though...
Thanks for watching - please like and subscribe!
You are EXACTLY right. There is always more than one way to do anything and what you are calling out is probably the better mousetrap if you have the equipment and are willing to go to the trouble. You can continue to sand and polish after 600 grit exactly as you describe. The only thing I'd add is that once you get to 1000 grit and above wet sanding seems to work best. And obviously you have to have a lathe that will turn a long one piece rod, have to appropriately support the rod at speed, deal with rods that are warped, etc. etc. etc. But yes - that method works great. For me it was messy and a lot of trouble relative to this method - and it is easier to sand too far and get in trouble - but it definitely yields an even better result. In fact I use that method for presentation rods (although I don't do many).
For what it is worth, I learned that method from Mark Crouse, aka The Munich Rod Man, who is a very accomplished builder of some renown. Mark has found that this polishing technique is the only true way to get a perfectly dead level finish. He uses this method on his rods. In my opinion Mark is extremely well rounded and does beautiful work of all kinds but his butt wrap finish is in fact dead level due to the polishing technique. And like I said - I will do it on presentation rods that aren't for fishing. But I don't go the trouble otherwise.
Mark once posted a quick SBS tutorial on Facebook of his method at one point...I'll see if I can find it. Please feel free to add any other tips and tricks (including which rubbing compound you like) here. I'm sure there are some who are interested and willing to go to the trouble. I'd love to know what method you are using - we can all learn something!
@@masteringrodbuilding Yes, I switch to wet sanding once I go higher than 600 grit. As far as rubbing compound goes I have used several but keep coming back to just plain turtle wax brand. One note about the compound though - you have to work it in. It's not polish compound! Thanks for doing these videos - they are very well done and thought out.
@@TheOttohouse thanks for the details. Super helpful!
Excellent instruction on all three videos. Could acetone clean up the contamination before a second coat?
So…Acetone is a very useful solvent for many things. However, experience has taught me personally that introducing ANY solvent creates more problems than it solves. So based on my personal experience I would say NO ACETONE.
And remember that simply coating with another coat solves the problem…so no need to do any other extra steps.
You are the man!!!! I was nervous about trying to sand my wavy finish and try again. You have given me the courage to attempt to try and see if I can get it fixed correctly. I just received my Gen4 this week with bubble release and blue tint. I tried it on a sample wrap just to see difference between pro kote and the Gen4. Now I see the difference. I'm not saying anything bad about pro kote but there is a difference. I have only used pro kote until this week and I agree you can get a good finish with it with practice but man that Gen4 is a better quality finish it lays better and crystal clear. Even makes my amateur wraps look really good. As always quick question have you ever used barber's razor the kind that goes in ole timey razor like my dad use to use. Gotta watch it cause there's blade on both sides but they seem to be much sharper than single. Just thought I'd ask. By the way great video looking forward to the next. Thanks again and tight lines.
Thanks for watching Paul. Yeah...the Gen4 stuff is pretty awesome. Very easy to use and a great look when finished.
I have used double edged safety razors before. In fact I've used them several times over the years. And you are correct - they are WAY sharper than single edge razor blades. The problem - to me - is that they are very hard to handle. They are hard to pick up, hard to put down, hard to move around...you just have to be really careful. They are also very flexible and it can be very easy to dig into the wrap when trying to trim fuzzies. They also dull very quickly compared to single edged blades. But you can absolutely use them.
If you do use them, I like to take a pair of tin snips or heavy scissors and cut them in half down the middle - so you end up with two pieces with a razor edge on one side. I then wrap the non-edged side with masking tape to kind of give myself a handle. Hope this help.
Hi Bill. Thanks for your efforts in making such informative videos. So clear and concise. I have a query about restoring the surface of a blank so that it can be rebuilt. In previous efforts, I end up with residue from the earlier bindings that can really only be removed by sanding and that"s not a good thing as you then have a dull spot on a glossy blank. Any thoughts on the matter would be greatly appreciated.
So...in my experience it sort of depends on the blank. Some blanks - those with a very hard coating or that are simply polished graphite - can usually have all the residue removed by gently warming it and scraping it with either your thumbnail or a plastic picnic knife. That will work a lot of the time. But if it doesn't, you are right - you may have to sand. If you end up having to go that route, a urethane finish like permagloss is the best coating for the blank. You can also pay to have the blank professionally painted as an option. Hope that helps!
Have any advice about making epoxy "ramps" like leading up to a fore grip? This was another great video... I really think my next rod will end up better off! Loved that red dragon scale wrap too. Might have to try that soon also... I got a ton of comments on those two surf rods I built with the 40cm dragon scale wraps I sent you pics of months ago. Thanks again!
Those Dragonscales do get attention. Yours looked great. There are lots of colors of leaf...I think they sell most of it as imitation silver leaf (vs. gold leaf). But give it a whirl.
On the epoxy ramps, are you looking for instruction on light duty freshwater/inshore/fly rods? Or are you looking for the heavy duty offshore type ramps? Thanks!
@@masteringrodbuilding I was thinking light duty freshwater/inshore/fly rods. Usually spinning rods have some kind of foregrip and a little ramp where the dec wrap meets the grip. I actually bought those little aluminum winding checks to try on a travel rod that I am building now.
Those dragonscales really do get a lot of attention. I think I have some red in the package I got when I did the first ones. I bought exactly what you linked to in those videos. Turned out pretty good for a first try.
Danny P I think they turned out awesome period...regardless how many tries! I normally use winding checks but I’ll put an epoxy ramp tutorial on the list...thanks!
@@masteringrodbuilding Thank you! Have a great day!
Nice thanks
Your video helps a lot sir..tqvm.
Great video as everyone states! Question - do you ever build an epoxy ramp - then apply thread as a winding check - I do it quite often but it is time consuming- any tips or tricks - if you do this😂
I have never done any type of epoxy ramp before...lots of requests for a video, though. May have to learn how.
Great insight
What specific pen do you use to write on your rods? How long do they need to wait be for you apply epoxy?
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I use Sakura Gelly Roll Gel Pens in Metallic Silver, Metallic Gold, white and black. I typically wait at least 4 hours (and usually overnight) before applying finish.
You can find them here: www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00K3KRQQ8/ref=psdcmw_1069828_t3_B00IHWGG4W
Also - I cover the pens and how to use them in detail in this video:
m.ruclips.net/video/QsUkiIV-pSw/видео.html
Hope this helps. The pen makes its appearance at the 15:30 mark.
I’m having such a hard time with micro bubbles...I’ve learned to keep my first coat super thin to help release bubbles from the thread, but I hate to apply multiple thin coats (2~3) afterwards instead of a thicker coat just to avoid introducing micro bubbles. And when I make my 2nd coat (or coats after my 1st coat) too thick, I see micro bubbles that I just can’t get rid of no matter what. I’m currently using Thread Master High Build and applying with Brush. Any advice is greatly appreciated!
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So, this will sound harsh but if you have bubbles you are introducing them somehow - most likely with your mixing. How are you mixing? You may also be introducing bubbles with your brush. Have you modified your brush technique? Or tried a spatula? A few bubbles are okay but you should not be getting tons of bubbles. If you are - regardless of finish - you need to modify your technique.
That said, bubbles are very easily dealt with by a quick application of heat from an alcohol torch or a cigarette lighter. Have you tried warming slightly on the guide wrap to remove the micro bubbles? That works really well for me. I have ZERO problems with bubbles.
Finally, that is not a finish I endorse or recommend. If you have not tried it, get regular high build Gen4 and give it a try. It releases bubbles like nothing I've ever seen. I'd be SHOCKED if you continue to have micro bubble problems with that finish. Give it the regular high build a try...I think you'll be pleased. Hope this helps!
@@masteringrodbuilding thank you so much for the tips! My dilemma is especially on heavier build guide wraps that take more time to do multiple guides in one mix and trying to get things right at the same time. Although sometimes I’m confused to understand where these tiny bubbles come from, on more than a few occasions I understand it’s from over extending my application time frame, where it gets too thick for the bubbles to surface (hard to stop myself sometimes cuz I don’t like to waste epoxy! I’m at fault I know 😓)
I’ve incorporated your spatula technique on smaller guides, but I would really like to see how you would go about doing heavier builds such as popping rods and trolling rods (high in demand in my area) with under wraps. In the meantime I’m definitely going to try out the Gen4 epoxy!
Your videos are truly a lifesaver and I’m simply a fan of you and your work! Thank you again for offering the BEST rod building videos on RUclips 🙏 Your expertise and detailed explanations are a big help!
Rod falling out of turner grrrrrrrrr.
Rod falling out of stand and continuing to turn all night pushed up against a metal edge.... Grrrr
We've all been there. But I have never had it happen (knock on wood) since I switched to the Fuji wire chucks. I get mine from Ron Weber at Southwest Custom Rods and they are a game changer.
@@dominic_a Brutal...HATE when this happens. But again - if you go back and check at 30 minutes and 1 hour you might catch it before it's too late!
@@masteringrodbuilding I did. It was a gaff actually. At some point the night counter weight slipped and it pulled the gaff off of the roller. Was the final coat of a snowflake wrap.