Hi, Michael! Your video has helped me a lot. It recently ocurred to me to use the camera winding mechanism to roll the 35mm film around the spool instead of doing it outside the camera. This helped me to get a very tight roll because the film was straight within the backing paper. I even roll the film backward and forward again to make it as tight as possible. This reduced the waves a lot. Thanks for the video!
I said I was planning to use the winding mechanism of a 127 camera to make this process easier... and it worked!! 🥳 The process is so simple that I can hardly believe it! Cut out a little rectangle from a PET bottle, say, 5.5cm wide x the length of the frame (it can be 4cm or 6.5cm), fold it like a trifold, making the middle section 35mm wide, and leaving the flaps as guides, and tape it to the place where the film slides past the shutter. Install a taking spool and start spooling the backing paper. When you reach the point where the film must begin, slide the film along the PET guide and insert it where the paper is rolling around the spool. Then keep rolling, keeping the paper tight with your fingers, until you reach the point where the film must end. Cut the film and place a little piece of tape on its end. Then keep rolling until the paper is completely rolled around the spool, and voila!! I am producing my film rolls at lightning speed now! It requires some practice before you do the real thing in the dark room/changing bag, because the film will continue skidding to the sides if the PET guide is not well placed. So I sugggest you try with a spoiled piece of film first, until you do it right. Cheers! 😁
I used an Imperial 127 camera and the 35mm roll fit into the film chamber and it worked like 35mm camera. Of course you need to go into a dark room and wind it manually.
If your 127 camera has no window its much easier to cut down 120 film and reroll the film to a 127 spool. There are a few ways to do this. A cigar cutter is my favorite so far.
I have sketched out a method for reloading 35mm film onto 127 (or 120) spools. I have a couple hundred feet each of Agfa Copex Rapid and Agfa 400S in UNPERF to experiment with until Ilford again allows custom cut orders. In a 127 camera, 35mm wide film leaves about ¼ inch top and bottom of the frame unused, and about ¾ of the area of a full 127 frame. The negatives would be about 46mm wide and 35mm high in landscape. Perf’ed film could be used with shorter frames. Of course, 120 film could be slit to 46mm and the flap mechanism below could still be used effectively. Two spools are needed, as well as film cut to length and the backing paper. For attaching the takeup end of the film to the takeup end of the backing paper, I have tested taping a 1 to 1-1/2 inch piece of 46 mm wide backing paper to the 127 backup paper at the location where the takeup end of the film would normally be taped to the backup paper. This creates a flap. The backing paper is wound tail end first onto a supply spool until the flap is exposed. The measured and cut length of film start end is inserted under this flap (at the point about 3/8 inch short of the original tape) and the film wound in takeup mode on another spool just as it would be wound into the camera. When the free (tail) end of the film is reached, it is tucked under the tail end of the backing paper and the film/backing paper combo is rewound onto the supply spool. When the start end of the film buckles up (due to the different length of the film and backing paper spirals) and reaches the flap, the beginning end of the film simply slips forward under the flap. The film is now ready to be used, properly spooled without the bump or buckle. As the film is initially fed into the camera, the flap prevents the film from catching on anything; the flap grips the film which simply follows along as it is wound into the camera. This is a heck of a lot simpler to do than to describe it. Terry
I was doing that and my photos kept being wavy until I noticed the film plane is curved. I got an old 4X5 negative I ruined and built a mask for the camera. I superglued it in place now the 35 MM film tracks on a curve like it should. I also figured out how to find the end of the roll when I am putting the 35mm on the backing paper. Before I go to spool it I put a piece of easily released tape on both ends of the backing paper so I know where to end the film. You could also put a notch in the paper so you can feel it when it is at the end. Using the mask made my pics straight and not wavy.
Here's the thing... sometimes there can be something off about the film that will ruin the developing chemicals. I once shot some 120 or 620 ektacolor (I don't remember which) from the 70's or 80's. It had a bad smell to it. I think there were bacteria eating the wax in the paper. Like a fool I used it anyways and tried developing it and it ruined the developer from a 30 dollar batch of C-41 chemicals that I'd barely gotten any use out of.
@@georgeparkins777 Something must have gone wrong there, It might have been C-22 film if it was really Ektacolor from the 70´s. That can affect your C-41 chemicals a great deal. Bacteria and chemical reactions rarely happen, but that doesn´t mean these unlikely cases don´t exist. The only case that I am aware of is that some people dump films made for different processes int modern chemicals that operate with much higher temperatures. The emulsion dissolves in the baths and ruins them...
Great job. Any suggestions for keeping the 35mm film straight, in relation to the 127. I mean, even a slight angle at the start, will totally goof it. Seems near impossible to get good results in a bag. Darkroom and red light is fine, right?
No method other than using "the film force" - I just guide it, feeling the top and bottom as I roll the roll. No red light. Red light is only for photo paper and blue sensitive films. Using a Red Light will completely fog your film. Good luck and enjoy shooting!
@@michaelraso cut a strip of plywood a little longer than the backing paper. Stretch out the paper and clip each end with a clothespin. Pay attention to the backing paper numbers when you clip the clothespins so you can use them as a guide for the film's start/stop points. Now into the darkroom. Pull out your entire length of film & cut off any exposed leader. Line up the film real nice along the paper and apply the first piece of tape. Remember that first piece is not really necessary in-camera, it is the last piece you will put down that is important to keep the film edge from hanging up as it advances across the back of camera. If not loading the camera also, be sure to have a rubber band and black bag of some sort to put the film in when fully wound.
that was indeed a helpful and detailed video and a brilliant idea that doesn't actually work! at first i was ecstatic to find that something like this was possible, but after a few attempts i can honestly tell you that my dreams were shattered! For starters, you'll need an endless supply of 35mm film to ruin as it's impossible to do this in complete darkness! Then, it's nearly impossible to keep the 35mm film straight against the 127mm paper while pulling it and rolling it back together! No way! And in the best case scenario that you manage all the above steps, you'll probably end up with a film roll much thicker that what the 127mm spool can actually hold that can't even fit in the camera!
Questions: 1) It appears as though at least the first part of the operation (aligning the 35mm to the 127 paper) could be done in the light, using the 35mm leader, then shove it in the changing bag/turn off the lights for the rest. 2) The 127 film originates in the days when B&W film was orthochromatic. Do the backing paper and the red window together protect adequately against light leaks? (I am assuming they do, seeing as these cameras have colour film settings.) 3) If you get it back to front, you just shoot redscale, don't you?
1. I think so. I leave it up to everyone to devise their own plan and work flow. 2. LOTS of room for light leaks all around. The backing paper is old, the cameras are old. Best to keep the window (and seams of the camera) taped up to avoid light leaks. 3. Loading the film with the base side (shiny side) up will give you Red Scale BUT these box cameras don't have any manual settings so your images would be well under exposed and yucky. Thanks for watching and commenting. As will all film fun, try things out! (and absolutely...Hooray for Pentax!!)
Interesting video, but I feel you have made it seem more difficult than it really is. Even when working inside a dark bag it's not that hard. also some simple masking of the frame area inside the camera with black gaffa tape will eliminate the sprocket hole effect
As of the recording, it was in short supply. Still a great option for folks who want Sprockets. Will also be available at filmphotographystore.com/ starting Sept.
Thanks for this video! I have an old TLR that shoots 127. I actually shot some ancient b&w expired 127 and a few shots turned out alright most didn’t but it was fun.
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Hi, Michael! Your video has helped me a lot. It recently ocurred to me to use the camera winding mechanism to roll the 35mm film around the spool instead of doing it outside the camera. This helped me to get a very tight roll because the film was straight within the backing paper. I even roll the film backward and forward again to make it as tight as possible. This reduced the waves a lot. Thanks for the video!
I said I was planning to use the winding mechanism of a 127 camera to make this process easier... and it worked!! 🥳 The process is so simple that I can hardly believe it! Cut out a little rectangle from a PET bottle, say, 5.5cm wide x the length of the frame (it can be 4cm or 6.5cm), fold it like a trifold, making the middle section 35mm wide, and leaving the flaps as guides, and tape it to the place where the film slides past the shutter. Install a taking spool and start spooling the backing paper. When you reach the point where the film must begin, slide the film along the PET guide and insert it where the paper is rolling around the spool. Then keep rolling, keeping the paper tight with your fingers, until you reach the point where the film must end. Cut the film and place a little piece of tape on its end. Then keep rolling until the paper is completely rolled around the spool, and voila!! I am producing my film rolls at lightning speed now! It requires some practice before you do the real thing in the dark room/changing bag, because the film will continue skidding to the sides if the PET guide is not well placed. So I sugggest you try with a spoiled piece of film first, until you do it right. Cheers! 😁
I used an Imperial 127 camera and the 35mm roll fit into the film chamber and it worked like 35mm camera. Of course you need to go into a dark room and wind it manually.
If your 127 camera has no window its much easier to cut down 120 film and reroll the film to a 127 spool. There are a few ways to do this. A cigar cutter is my favorite so far.
Thank you so much for your sharing. Would love to see your photo results from this camera.
I’m definitely trying this this week, wish me luck
I have a brownie will it work without the backing piece
Ugh, how often did I miss the number 1... Great video. I will try this soon.
127 film is readily available in the UK, 110 and 620 too.
1:49 number one!!!!! I love that quote. 9:17
I'm thinking of trying this with Ilford Ortho 80 since you should be able to respool under a safety light 😁
I have sketched out a method for reloading 35mm film onto 127 (or 120)
spools. I have a couple hundred feet each of Agfa Copex Rapid and
Agfa 400S in UNPERF to experiment with until Ilford again allows
custom cut orders. In a 127 camera, 35mm wide film leaves about ¼
inch top and bottom of the frame unused, and about ¾ of the area of a
full 127 frame. The negatives would be about 46mm wide and 35mm high
in landscape. Perf’ed film could be used with shorter frames. Of
course, 120 film could be slit to 46mm and the flap mechanism below
could still be used effectively.
Two spools are needed, as well as film cut to length and the backing paper.
For attaching the takeup end of the film to the takeup end of the
backing paper, I have tested taping a 1 to 1-1/2 inch piece of 46 mm
wide backing paper to the 127 backup paper at the location where the
takeup end of the film would normally be taped to the backup paper.
This creates a flap.
The backing paper is wound tail end first onto a supply spool until
the flap is exposed. The measured and cut length of film start end is
inserted under this flap (at the point about 3/8 inch short of the
original tape) and the film wound in takeup mode on another spool just
as it would be wound into the camera. When the free (tail) end of the
film is reached, it is tucked under the tail end of the backing paper
and the film/backing paper combo is rewound onto the supply spool.
When the start end of the film buckles up (due to the different length
of the film and backing paper spirals) and reaches the flap, the
beginning end of the film simply slips forward under the flap. The
film is now ready to be used, properly spooled without the bump or
buckle.
As the film is initially fed into the camera, the flap prevents the
film from catching on anything; the flap grips the film which simply
follows along as it is wound into the camera.
This is a heck of a lot simpler to do than to describe it.
Terry
I was doing that and my photos kept being wavy until I noticed the film plane is curved. I got an old 4X5 negative I ruined and built a mask for the camera. I superglued it in place now the 35 MM film tracks on a curve like it should. I also figured out how to find the end of the roll when I am putting the 35mm on the backing paper. Before I go to spool it I put a piece of easily released tape on both ends of the backing paper so I know where to end the film. You could also put a notch in the paper so you can feel it when it is at the end. Using the mask made my pics straight and not wavy.
I forgot to mention: Cover the red window.
How do you know how much to wind from one frame to the next?
Any old film is worth shooting, no matter how old. somehow you can always get pictures out of it with a little effort. Don´t waste 1mm of film.
Here's the thing... sometimes there can be something off about the film that will ruin the developing chemicals. I once shot some 120 or 620 ektacolor (I don't remember which) from the 70's or 80's. It had a bad smell to it. I think there were bacteria eating the wax in the paper. Like a fool I used it anyways and tried developing it and it ruined the developer from a 30 dollar batch of C-41 chemicals that I'd barely gotten any use out of.
No.
@@georgeparkins777 Something must have gone wrong there, It might have been C-22 film if it was really Ektacolor from the 70´s. That can affect your C-41 chemicals a great deal. Bacteria and chemical reactions rarely happen, but that doesn´t mean these unlikely cases don´t exist. The only case that I am aware of is that some people dump films made for different processes int modern chemicals that operate with much higher temperatures. The emulsion dissolves in the baths and ruins them...
It probably would be a lot more easier to shoot with 127 film or a film size compatible with it.
Is it possible to load 35mm if you only have one spool?
Fun little camera. I still need to pickup one of your 126 fakmatic cartridges.
Great job. Any suggestions for keeping the 35mm film straight, in relation to the 127. I mean, even a slight angle at the start, will totally goof it. Seems near impossible to get good results in a bag. Darkroom and red light is fine, right?
No method other than using "the film force" - I just guide it, feeling the top and bottom as I roll the roll. No red light. Red light is only for photo paper and blue sensitive films. Using a Red Light will completely fog your film. Good luck and enjoy shooting!
@@michaelraso cut a strip of plywood a little longer than the backing paper. Stretch out the paper and clip each end with a clothespin. Pay attention to the backing paper numbers when you clip the clothespins so you can use them as a guide for the film's start/stop points. Now into the darkroom. Pull out your entire length of film & cut off any exposed leader. Line up the film real nice along the paper and apply the first piece of tape. Remember that first piece is not really necessary in-camera, it is the last piece you will put down that is important to keep the film edge from hanging up as it advances across the back of camera. If not loading the camera also, be sure to have a rubber band and black bag of some sort to put the film in when fully wound.
question if you tape the back, how far do you know to wind on film to next shot ?
Best to use 35mm with backing paper. Otherwise, you're guesstimating the number of turns.
@@FilmPhotographyProject thankyou , i thought might be case , guessing how many turns
that was indeed a helpful and detailed video and a brilliant idea that doesn't actually work!
at first i was ecstatic to find that something like this was possible, but after a few attempts i can honestly tell you that my dreams were shattered!
For starters, you'll need an endless supply of 35mm film to ruin as it's impossible to do this in complete darkness! Then, it's nearly impossible to keep the 35mm film straight against the 127mm paper while pulling it and rolling it back together! No way! And in the best case scenario that you manage all the above steps, you'll probably end up with a film roll much thicker that what the 127mm spool can actually hold that can't even fit in the camera!
Practice makes perfect. I've done it successfully many, many times. - Mike Raso
Thank you so much to make this video for us!!! it is really helpful!!!!!!
what an insightful video
super helpful!
thanks for sharing this with us
really enjoyed watching this
Bought some rera pan 100 127 expire 2020 at my local camera store. Very expensive but fun.
Hey Michael this was very helpful I just got a brownie reflex synchro and I would like to shot some film though it so thanks for the video
my camera for my entire childhood what an amazingly durable and reliable camera. took great photos for having such a goofy little lens
"Number 1 !!!!"
Will I be able to use 35mm film in a brownie reflex synchro model?
If you follow the tips from the video I don't see why not.
I'm getting a brownie synchro too from 1942
Should my 127 film camera have two spools?
Camera has one empty "take-up" spool. The "feed side" is your film.
Questions:
1) It appears as though at least the first part of the operation (aligning the 35mm to the 127 paper) could be done in the light, using the 35mm leader, then shove it in the changing bag/turn off the lights for the rest.
2) The 127 film originates in the days when B&W film was orthochromatic. Do the backing paper and the red window together protect adequately against light leaks? (I am assuming they do, seeing as these cameras have colour film settings.)
3) If you get it back to front, you just shoot redscale, don't you?
1. I think so. I leave it up to everyone to devise their own plan and work flow.
2. LOTS of room for light leaks all around. The backing paper is old, the cameras are old. Best to keep the window (and seams of the camera) taped up to avoid light leaks.
3. Loading the film with the base side (shiny side) up will give you Red Scale BUT these box cameras don't have any manual settings so your images would be well under exposed and yucky.
Thanks for watching and commenting. As will all film fun, try things out! (and absolutely...Hooray for Pentax!!)
Interesting video, but I feel you have made it seem more difficult than it really is. Even when working inside a dark bag it's not that hard. also some simple masking of the frame area inside the camera with black gaffa tape will eliminate the sprocket hole effect
freestyle photographic has 127 film listed for sale, and b&h has respooled 127 for sale.
As of the recording, it was in short supply. Still a great option for folks who want Sprockets. Will also be available at filmphotographystore.com/ starting Sept.
Yes you read my mind. I’m
Not doing that. I’ve read they are making the 127 film as of 2020v
...and the FPP has it! - filmphotographystore.com/collections/all/127-film
Thanks for this video! I have an old TLR that shoots 127. I actually shot some ancient b&w expired 127 and a few shots turned out alright most didn’t but it was fun.
What show??
I'm getting film sweats when they want 70+ quid for a pack of 10 Ilford Deltas 3200...
👏🏻 👍🏻 🙏🏻
Nice vid, rock on.
You’re hilarious.