Wish I had found this video two days ago. Please edit your title and add " on FUSE #7 (door latch)" to the end of your video title. This issue with the door latch is common (as I have come to realize by reading a lot of forums), but the electrical troubleshooting, with the circuit diagrams....YOUR video is extremely unique and incredibly valueable, and absolutely perfect for this issue!!!!! THANK YOU"
Good logic hunting down another parasitic draw! No power tail gate? No problem! One less thing to have a issue with one day. It’s always interesting to see what comes in the shop. Thanks for posting it.
20 bucks says it was the one microswitch on one or both of the rear sliding door closer motors not being activated because the mechanism that animates the automatic latch gets all gooped up with crap and the grease that lubricates the mechanism gets all thick and gross from surreptitiously and quietly gathering for itself a decade's worth of various contaminants which causes a malfunction of the mechanism in which the aforementioned contaminated grease interferes with the cycle of the mechanism responsible for animating the door's rear latch by virtue of the contaminated grease disallowing full rotation(or full return) on one of the cams which prevents the cam from coming to rest at the end of its cycle in contact with aforementioned microswitch (which is always hot from battery) which signals to the van that that particular door is closed. Therefore, if the microswitch is not activated at the end of the latch cycle, the van doesn't know that the door is closed, which causes it to be constantly awake and prevents the van from entering sleep mode, which prevents the door closer module from ceasing to ask the battery for current, which results in a persistent call to the battery for about .400 amps until no supply remains to be drawn from.
Awesome explanation! I believe you're 100% correct. The sad part is another line of programming code in the control module could prevent the drain and dead battery by simply timing out and shutting down anyways. Kind of like when you leave a door open and the interior light on by accident.
My 2010 used to have a dead battery every once in awhile. Now it is every night, especially during the winter. I have taken it to multiple mechanics and explained what I think is happening, i.e. that there is a parasitic drain. No one will diagnose that. I guess it's a lot of work. Instead, twice I've had them throw a new battery at me. The last one worked for maybe a few weeks, then back to a dead battery almost every morning in the winter (Utah, below 20 most nights). The door lock on front passenger started to not lock on driving a few years ago. Then the passenger side sliding door started to have issues with not always opening all the way, closing after opening 12 inches or so. Also, sometimes it would act like it was trying to close over and over again. Sometimes the door open alarm would randomly come on while driving. One night the alarm randomly went off. One mechanic suggested they just disconnect the sliding door from electricity. That proved utterly stupid b/c closing them was difficult from the interior b/c there's no handle to slide it closed. Also, they cut the wires instead of pulling a fuse, (b/c they said the fuses would impact other things) but they ended up cutting the wire to my tail lights, rear door and wipers (Found that out during an unexpected snow storm at night!b Idiots!) Took it to a Honda dealer and they said the roller balls on the doors needed to be replaced, so I paid to have the dumb doors taken off, rollers replaced, and put back on. OH! And had them refuse the wires back together that the other guys cut. UGH! $3k into this parasitic drain and I'm right back at a dead battery nearly every morning. I don't have the capability or time to diagnose the draw, so I'm deciding if maybe disconnecting the battery or installing an interruptor is my best option. Others have suggested a trickle charger. But that means running an extension cord from god knows where during the winter. It wouldn't be ethical to sell or trade in, but I am so over this car just not working. OH! And one of the first issues we had with it was it would randomly lose power and start chugging at 25mph. The dealer could never diagnose that problem, but 7 years later a new alternator solved it. WTH? Are all these things connected?
I feel your pain. I've seen lots of causes for parasitic draw over the years and yes it can be time consuming to diagnose for sure especially if the problem is intermittent. A disconnect switch on the battery is an alternative for sure. You can even source one that is remotely controlled I believe. Unless you can have it mounted in a location so as you don't have to open the hood to turn it on or off. I'll see if I can find a link...Remote Battery Disconnect Switch 12v, 250A, Upgrade Prevent Battery Drain, Disconnect Negative Car Kill Switch Anti-Theft, Remote Battery Kill Switch for Car, Truck, RV www.amazon.ca/dp/B0BJNZTRP3?starsLeft=1&ref_=cm_sw_r_apann_dp_WZ6C236A3C4TJ3NA04AM
Thanks for this video. It was the exact problem with my 2006 odyssey. You probably saved me hundreds of dollars in labor costs. $14 replacement hinge and unplugged connector in the rear panel and my van is good to go.
Gave up and left the A connectors unplugged on both door modules after replacing the left lock which had failed. Such a pain to repair and I had no desire to experience another dead battery on my '07 caused by another component which would surely fail even if I fixed the stupid doors! Love the old van and it works fine without them!
I’ve replaced the latch assembly with micro switch on my odyssey once already. Lasted about 2 years. Not doing it again. I would rather unplug the connector and use the manual door. Should have bought the LX because these doors are a nightmare, especially with the parasitic drain that Honda could have easily avoided by having the sensor time out.
I have a similar problem in my Honda. I traced down it to fuse 7. Fuse 7 is same back-up fuse you had the issue with, but I do not have a problem with my sliding doors and my alarm system activate without issue, which indicates the door is not the problem. I also hear the continuous clicking of a relay, like you did. When I unplug the fuse 5, the clicking goes away. Fuse 5 is the car stereo fuse. I wonder if the car stereo fuse might have been playing a role in your issue as well. I have not yet resolved the car stereo issue.
Just found the exact same issue with mine last night. Draw is down to almost nothing when I take fuses 5 and 7 out. Thought I was close to a resolution but after watching this video seems like it could still be a number of problems.
So, I just bought a 2005 Honda odyssey with no power doors. I found a couple corroded wires in that white connector back there and butt connected them back together. I gained multiple accessories back but no doors. And now the battery went dead. I’m trying to follow this video but unsure what to unplug to remove the draw, and manually have doors only. Please help.
This ended up being the exact wire (WHT/RED) to the left sliding door and power tail gate. (Have 2005 touring). Although if I had been a little more patient and waited for the system to boot and drop down, would of saved many hours.
Its probably a micro switch for the latch assembly gets stuck as always open even tho the door jam reads as shut it continously sends a shutting command. This could be huge if thats a way to disable the power door mechanism because the odyssey community tried uplugging the harnesses inside the door and it still drains so they pull fuses and loose the keyfob feature
I have same same problem on 2006 honda odyssey. Right sliding door does not get any power, power window doesn’t work also. I replaced sliding door motor, module, replaced latch sensor which locates rear side of door, (there sre two latches, front side which is close to front door) and (front latch which is close to front door), replaced “Z” type cabe which is bridge connection between main harness syatem and sliding door. Still no power on right rear sliding door and no power on right rear window. Can you please recommend me which cable am I supposed to replace or plug/unplug ?
Have the same battery drain problem, replace alternator and battery was fully charged 100% but it drained back up in 1 day and it wouldn’t start again, watching videos trying to fix it😅
Sometimes is your battery hook terminals including the main switch fuse box connectors YOU GOT TO CLEAN CONNECTIONS BOTH SIDES ALSO SOMETIME THE AC compressor rely as well as a poor ground connection from the battery to the VAN frame or even the ground connector that leads to the engine IS ALL ABOUT ELECTRICAL ANALYSIS LOOPS AND BRANCHES some free classes told me this here in you tube Circuit analysis part 1 part 2 Even a bad ground connection to your headlights might cause this issue I’m fixing mine with this tutorial given to us here since I already checked all the mentioned above now this is the final part 😢
I want to share a trick. After replacing the old battery, the horn will sound immediately+ the signal lights will flash continuously = the transmission will lock so you cant shift the car into drive. The solution is get your master key for the 2005 Odyssey minivan and restart the car with that master key to reset the CPU. you dont need to get the dealer to sell you a new MICU for $5K. Bro you are wasting your time, the customer already told you his passenger sliding door was not operating.. You need to replace the microswitch in that sliding door not spend 8 hours looking for a phantom current.
My left door is working perfectly fine but the right door is not, but the fuse is the same as in your video.. So is there any chance that maybe my right passenger door is making the parasitic drian? Let suppose my left door is making the issue can you specify the switches which i need to replace, 2ndly can i disable the switch and also use the door?
You will need a conventional ammeter to put in series between the negative battery post and its cable to establish there is a draw. You need to make sure the key is out of the ignition, doors are closed and wait 20 minutes for computers to go to sleep. Any more than 50mA is cause for concern. Some people pull fuses to locate the problem circuit but that can reboot a computer and you're waiting another 20 min. I'd recommend to measure voltage drop across each fuse with a voltmeter. Any fuse with a voltage drop indicates there's current flow through the fuse. There is a formula based on the measured voltage drop and the type and amperage of the fuse. Try removing the fuse that measured a voltage drop see if the parasitic draw goes away or drops significantly. Using the schematic determine what that fuse feeds. Isolate it to a specific circuit and component. There are hundreds of videos demonstrating parasitic draw testing and a number of different approaches that different techs use. I'd suggest you watch several to get the idea. Good luck.
Wish I had found this video two days ago. Please edit your title and add " on FUSE #7 (door latch)" to the end of your video title. This issue with the door latch is common (as I have come to realize by reading a lot of forums), but the electrical troubleshooting, with the circuit diagrams....YOUR video is extremely unique and incredibly valueable, and absolutely perfect for this issue!!!!! THANK YOU"
Will do!
Good logic hunting down another parasitic draw! No power tail gate? No problem! One less thing to have a issue with one day. It’s always interesting to see what comes in the shop. Thanks for posting it.
Maestro estoy admirado de hace días de su profesionalismo
Thanks for your time and effort. Love the videos
20 bucks says it was the one microswitch on one or both of the rear sliding door closer motors not being activated because the mechanism that animates the automatic latch gets all gooped up with crap and the grease that lubricates the mechanism gets all thick and gross from surreptitiously and quietly gathering for itself a decade's worth of various contaminants which causes a malfunction of the mechanism in which the aforementioned contaminated grease interferes with the cycle of the mechanism responsible for animating the door's rear latch by virtue of the contaminated grease disallowing full rotation(or full return) on one of the cams which prevents the cam from coming to rest at the end of its cycle in contact with aforementioned microswitch (which is always hot from battery) which signals to the van that that particular door is closed. Therefore, if the microswitch is not activated at the end of the latch cycle, the van doesn't know that the door is closed, which causes it to be constantly awake and prevents the van from entering sleep mode, which prevents the door closer module from ceasing to ask the battery for current, which results in a persistent call to the battery for about .400 amps until no supply remains to be drawn from.
Awesome explanation! I believe you're 100% correct. The sad part is another line of programming code in the control module could prevent the drain and dead battery by simply timing out and shutting down anyways. Kind of like when you leave a door open and the interior light on by accident.
Amen brother yes thank you. You hit the nail on the head.
😂 yes! What you said!
My 2010 used to have a dead battery every once in awhile. Now it is every night, especially during the winter. I have taken it to multiple mechanics and explained what I think is happening, i.e. that there is a parasitic drain. No one will diagnose that. I guess it's a lot of work. Instead, twice I've had them throw a new battery at me. The last one worked for maybe a few weeks, then back to a dead battery almost every morning in the winter (Utah, below 20 most nights). The door lock on front passenger started to not lock on driving a few years ago. Then the passenger side sliding door started to have issues with not always opening all the way, closing after opening 12 inches or so. Also, sometimes it would act like it was trying to close over and over again. Sometimes the door open alarm would randomly come on while driving. One night the alarm randomly went off.
One mechanic suggested they just disconnect the sliding door from electricity. That proved utterly stupid b/c closing them was difficult from the interior b/c there's no handle to slide it closed. Also, they cut the wires instead of pulling a fuse, (b/c they said the fuses would impact other things) but they ended up cutting the wire to my tail lights, rear door and wipers (Found that out during an unexpected snow storm at night!b Idiots!)
Took it to a Honda dealer and they said the roller balls on the doors needed to be replaced, so I paid to have the dumb doors taken off, rollers replaced, and put back on. OH! And had them refuse the wires back together that the other guys cut. UGH! $3k into this parasitic drain and I'm right back at a dead battery nearly every morning. I don't have the capability or time to diagnose the draw, so I'm deciding if maybe disconnecting the battery or installing an interruptor is my best option. Others have suggested a trickle charger. But that means running an extension cord from god knows where during the winter. It wouldn't be ethical to sell or trade in, but I am so over this car just not working.
OH! And one of the first issues we had with it was it would randomly lose power and start chugging at 25mph. The dealer could never diagnose that problem, but 7 years later a new alternator solved it. WTH? Are all these things connected?
I feel your pain. I've seen lots of causes for parasitic draw over the years and yes it can be time consuming to diagnose for sure especially if the problem is intermittent. A disconnect switch on the battery is an alternative for sure. You can even source one that is remotely controlled I believe. Unless you can have it mounted in a location so as you don't have to open the hood to turn it on or off. I'll see if I can find a link...Remote Battery Disconnect Switch 12v, 250A, Upgrade Prevent Battery Drain, Disconnect Negative Car Kill Switch Anti-Theft, Remote Battery Kill Switch for Car, Truck, RV www.amazon.ca/dp/B0BJNZTRP3?starsLeft=1&ref_=cm_sw_r_apann_dp_WZ6C236A3C4TJ3NA04AM
Hi, the new alternator solved your battery drain issues? What brand alternator did you buy new?
Thanks for this video. It was the exact problem with my 2006 odyssey. You probably saved me hundreds of dollars in labor costs. $14 replacement hinge and unplugged connector in the rear panel and my van is good to go.
Glad it helped you out.
@@PhillipBailey I noticed my rear drivers side taillight isn't working. Would that have an thing to do with the relay I un plugged?
@@deandrews9599 I doubt it. Have you checked the bulb/s?
@@PhillipBailey I'll check it out. It may have come loose when I had the tail light pulled to replace the door hinge.
see my comment above for a possible _fix_ fix
Phillip, that was a very good video. thank you.
Gave up and left the A connectors unplugged on both door modules after replacing the left lock which had failed. Such a pain to repair and I had no desire to experience another dead battery on my '07 caused by another component which would surely fail even if I fixed the stupid doors! Love the old van and it works fine without them!
Is the A connector location shown in video? And at what timestamp? I only see it on the diagram so I’m confused. Thanks
Being owner of Honda odyssey big help and enlighten
Nice bro keep postings
I’ve replaced the latch assembly with micro switch on my odyssey once already. Lasted about 2 years. Not doing it again. I would rather unplug the connector and use the manual door. Should have bought the LX because these doors are a nightmare, especially with the parasitic drain that Honda could have easily avoided by having the sensor time out.
Awesome electrical troubleshooting.
very educative. Thank you regards
Having the same exact problem and same door. Will attempt later and hope it works.
Good luck!
Can't you just leave the fuse out?
@@supporterofeverythingyouli6255 it powers other circuits depending upon your options.
@@PhillipBailey I pulled mine solved my problem haven't noticed any loss in anything.
Nice work!
Thanks alooot. Appreciated 👍🏻
I have a similar problem in my Honda. I traced down it to fuse 7. Fuse 7 is same back-up fuse you had the issue with, but I do not have a problem with my sliding doors and my alarm system activate without issue, which indicates the door is not the problem. I also hear the continuous clicking of a relay, like you did. When I unplug the fuse 5, the clicking goes away. Fuse 5 is the car stereo fuse. I wonder if the car stereo fuse might have been playing a role in your issue as well. I have not yet resolved the car stereo issue.
Just found the exact same issue with mine last night. Draw is down to almost nothing when I take fuses 5 and 7 out. Thought I was close to a resolution but after watching this video seems like it could still be a number of problems.
So, I just bought a 2005 Honda odyssey with no power doors. I found a couple corroded wires in that white connector back there and butt connected them back together. I gained multiple accessories back but no doors. And now the battery went dead. I’m trying to follow this video but unsure what to unplug to remove the draw, and manually have doors only. Please help.
Nice job breaking that down!!
This ended up being the exact wire (WHT/RED) to the left sliding door and power tail gate. (Have 2005 touring). Although if I had been a little more patient and waited for the system to boot and drop down, would of saved many hours.
Its probably a micro switch for the latch assembly gets stuck as always open even tho the door jam reads as shut it continously sends a shutting command. This could be huge if thats a way to disable the power door mechanism because the odyssey community tried uplugging the harnesses inside the door and it still drains so they pull fuses and loose the keyfob feature
Yes I agree.
10:49 So thats the Left Power Sliding Door Control Unit. Do you know where the right side is? @@PhillipBailey
@user-dc5ql3jf7j inside the right rear I would assume
Well done man , thank you for the info .
thanks for watching
Could this be an issue also with the alarm wont beep but it locks, but the alarm doesn't activate
Thank you!!!! This video probably
Always learn from you
I have same same problem on 2006 honda odyssey. Right sliding door does not get any power, power window doesn’t work also. I replaced sliding door motor, module, replaced latch sensor which locates rear side of door, (there sre two latches, front side which is close to front door) and (front latch which is close to front door), replaced “Z” type cabe which is bridge connection between main harness syatem and sliding door. Still no power on right rear sliding door and no power on right rear window. Can you please recommend me which cable am I supposed to replace or plug/unplug ?
Have the same battery drain problem, replace alternator and battery was fully charged 100% but it drained back up in 1 day and it wouldn’t start again, watching videos trying to fix it😅
Sometimes is your battery hook terminals including the main switch fuse box connectors YOU GOT TO CLEAN CONNECTIONS BOTH SIDES
ALSO SOMETIME THE AC compressor rely
as well as a poor ground connection from the battery to the VAN frame or even the ground connector that leads to the engine
IS ALL ABOUT ELECTRICAL ANALYSIS LOOPS AND BRANCHES some free classes told me this here in you tube
Circuit analysis part 1
part 2
Even a bad ground connection to your headlights might cause this issue
I’m fixing mine with this tutorial given to us here since I already checked all the mentioned above now this is the final part 😢
I want to share a trick. After replacing the old battery, the horn will sound immediately+ the signal lights will flash continuously = the transmission will lock so you cant shift the car into drive. The solution is get your master key for the 2005 Odyssey minivan and restart the car with that master key to reset the CPU. you dont need to get the dealer to sell you a new MICU for $5K. Bro you are wasting your time, the customer already told you his passenger sliding door was not operating.. You need to replace the microswitch in that sliding door not spend 8 hours looking for a phantom current.
Thanks for the advise.
My left door is working perfectly fine but the right door is not, but the fuse is the same as in your video.. So is there any chance that maybe my right passenger door is making the parasitic drian?
Let suppose my left door is making the issue can you specify the switches which i need to replace, 2ndly can i disable the switch and also use the door?
Chances are it's in the door that's not working electrically. I never fixed this one just disabled it to prevent the draw from killing tge battery.
I have the same issue, but after I unplug X35 connector the current back to normal.
I want to do that but just not sure which connectors to unplug
Can you tell me all the parts I need to buy in order to start my testing?
You will need a conventional ammeter to put in series between the negative battery post and its cable to establish there is a draw. You need to make sure the key is out of the ignition, doors are closed and wait 20 minutes for computers to go to sleep. Any more than 50mA is cause for concern. Some people pull fuses to locate the problem circuit but that can reboot a computer and you're waiting another 20 min. I'd recommend to measure voltage drop across each fuse with a voltmeter. Any fuse with a voltage drop indicates there's current flow through the fuse. There is a formula based on the measured voltage drop and the type and amperage of the fuse. Try removing the fuse that measured a voltage drop see if the parasitic draw goes away or drops significantly. Using the schematic determine what that fuse feeds. Isolate it to a specific circuit and component. There are hundreds of videos demonstrating parasitic draw testing and a number of different approaches that different techs use. I'd suggest you watch several to get the idea. Good luck.