I appreciate it, JusBidniss! Picked up some 5/8" all tread the other day. Will experiment with your shelf idea and variations thereof and will come up with something pretty soon. That is going to be a great and quick method to do floating shelves, I think?
@@RustyDobbs Sounds good Rusty, looking forward to seeing it. A metal dowel peg like 5/8" all thread has the advantage of greater shear strength over the same diameter of wood, so assuming the distance between its exit from the stud and the back edge of the shelf aren't too far apart so that it bends, it should be stronger than a wood dowel in that application. When I was first envisioning how to best use all thread in it, I thought of drilling a deep hole in a solid shelf, but not everyone can set that up on a drill press, either due to not having one, or theirs doesn't go that deep to fit a shelf edge-on under it, etc., and doing it with a hand drill may not be straight enough for that long of a dowel. But if one hand-drills into the stud at least relatively straight and installs the all thread there, then a 3-layered shelf can be easily assembled around the projecting all thread for an exact fit, and no drilling of the shelf required. But I don't want to lock you in, I'm sure whatever your take is on it will be strong and well-designed.
Useful video, thanks. Safety tip: That was a dangerous way to cut the cord with a box cutter. (pulling the box cutter toward one's other arm and body) You may have the experience to know where that super sharp box cutter is going after it slices through something, but others may not. Always push away from your arm and body. I know this from experience. As a youth I was opening boxes in a grocery store, pulled the box cutter across the top of a box ... and required 4 inches of "football" stitches in the underside of my other arm. The good owner immediately took me to his doctor ... and I kept my part-time job. However, the cashier nearly fainted as we walked past her. 🙃
Thanks for the reminder, Mike, for me and others! I too have had a similar experience with a box type cutter and my right hand index finger many years ago. I was inexperienced and was cutting the tabs on a 3 1/2 gallon bucket lid of vinyl flooring adhesive. I'll leave out the details, but it still makes me cringe to think about it! Though I did not get stitches, I probably should have as it took a month to heal! The heavy duty blades to not discriminate as to what material they are cutting, particularly with a lot of force behind them! Thanks for relating the story about your boss and cashier! Sounds like a good experience for you all the way around. I appreciate you watching!
I’ve noticed in other videos when you’re working on projects and installing screws. You drive in the screw then back them out and then drive it in again. Can you explain the benefit of doing it that way. Thanks. Great videos
Thanks for your comment and question, bougi66! Several answers on that one. Sometimes I am using assembly screws that have small cutters on the countersink head of the screw. I will back out and zip them back in to recess the head a little. Often when you are connecting two pieces of material, the backside of the front piece will bulge out a little before the screw goes into the back piece. If you back it out and zip it back in, it will snug the pieces up tight again. Probably the best answer is that it is habit because it is likely going to need it 75% of the time. Now, If you predrill a hole before you run a screw in, you can typically snug everything up without backing the screw out. Observant! Great question!
As I recall, it was a similar experience with my wife looking for new lamps that prompted me to see if I could fix the old ones, Sueann! They are expensive! Glad this helped you, too!
60 watt would be typical, kvdgadj, but I believe this replacement fixture was for a three way light bulb so it had different brightness levels with each turn of the switch.
- Jeeze Rusty, U should have watched a few "how to" videos before attempting to show others how to replace a lamp cord. There're some really good ones. "Know How Now" on How to replace a Lamp Cord comes to mind.
Thanks for watching one of my most poorly viewed videos of all time, Lady! And then you give me a hard time about it to boot! 😀 I actually thought it was a pretty good video myself. My viewers would rather see me build floating shelves or set tile than repair a lamp. What made you decide to watch it anyway?
@@RustyDobbs Just thumbing thru ‘lamp repair’ videos & didn’t want to ‘flub it up’ (grin, giggle, LOL). I’m planning to make floating shelves. I’ll certainly watch your take on that. Thanx.
😀A gray hair like you should've known how to replace just the socket (the brass part) to service the faulty switch. *Unless your wife told you she hated the yellow cord and wanted it gone, you did it the difficult, wasteful way. Poor viewers--who thought they had to destroy the cord and dismantle the whole lamp to fix the switch. For everyone else: Start the video at 6:50. As shown, pry or pull apart the socket leaving the base on the lamp (a slender flat blade screwdriver works well), unscrew the two wire terminals so you can remove and discard the switch portion. The rest should be self explanatory. You might want to take this video down and re-do it. Do some closeups of the wiring part. I'd be ashamed, personally, if this was my work. All in good fun. 😄
Good job, Rusty! Always practical and useful info on your channel!
I appreciate it, JusBidniss! Picked up some 5/8" all tread the other day. Will experiment with your shelf idea and variations thereof and will come up with something pretty soon. That is going to be a great and quick method to do floating shelves, I think?
@@RustyDobbs Sounds good Rusty, looking forward to seeing it. A metal dowel peg like 5/8" all thread has the advantage of greater shear strength over the same diameter of wood, so assuming the distance between its exit from the stud and the back edge of the shelf aren't too far apart so that it bends, it should be stronger than a wood dowel in that application. When I was first envisioning how to best use all thread in it, I thought of drilling a deep hole in a solid shelf, but not everyone can set that up on a drill press, either due to not having one, or theirs doesn't go that deep to fit a shelf edge-on under it, etc., and doing it with a hand drill may not be straight enough for that long of a dowel. But if one hand-drills into the stud at least relatively straight and installs the all thread there, then a 3-layered shelf can be easily assembled around the projecting all thread for an exact fit, and no drilling of the shelf required. But I don't want to lock you in, I'm sure whatever your take is on it will be strong and well-designed.
Yeah, curious to see how the shelf design is going to come together.
first time watching you.....very helpful. Thank you!!
Glad you found it helpful, Maribeth, and thanks for watching!
Another fine video Rusty!!!
Thanks, Danny! Another one of those 'meat and potato' videos I put in every once and a while Comes in handy when you need it!
Useful video, thanks. Safety tip: That was a dangerous way to cut the cord with a box cutter. (pulling the box cutter toward one's other arm and body) You may have the experience to know where that super sharp box cutter is going after it slices through something, but others may not. Always push away from your arm and body. I know this from experience. As a youth I was opening boxes in a grocery store, pulled the box cutter across the top of a box ... and required 4 inches of "football" stitches in the underside of my other arm. The good owner immediately took me to his doctor ... and I kept my part-time job. However, the cashier nearly fainted as we walked past her. 🙃
Thanks for the reminder, Mike, for me and others! I too have had a similar experience with a box type cutter and my right hand index finger many years ago. I was inexperienced and was cutting the tabs on a 3 1/2 gallon bucket lid of vinyl flooring adhesive. I'll leave out the details, but it still makes me cringe to think about it! Though I did not get stitches, I probably should have as it took a month to heal! The heavy duty blades to not discriminate as to what material they are cutting, particularly with a lot of force behind them! Thanks for relating the story about your boss and cashier! Sounds like a good experience for you all the way around. I appreciate you watching!
Great video!
Thanks, Sven! I appreciate you being one of the few to watch this video! Hope it helped you fix your light! 😀
I’ve noticed in other videos when you’re working on projects and installing screws. You drive in the screw then back them out and then drive it in again. Can you explain the benefit of doing it that way. Thanks. Great videos
Thanks for your comment and question, bougi66! Several answers on that one. Sometimes I am using assembly screws that have small cutters on the countersink head of the screw. I will back out and zip them back in to recess the head a little. Often when you are connecting two pieces of material, the backside of the front piece will bulge out a little before the screw goes into the back piece. If you back it out and zip it back in, it will snug the pieces up tight again. Probably the best answer is that it is habit because it is likely going to need it 75% of the time. Now, If you predrill a hole before you run a screw in, you can typically snug everything up without backing the screw out. Observant! Great question!
Thank you,…. now I know how to fix my lamp…. I threw 2 expensive lamps away a few year ago because I didn’t know the switches could be replaced ….
As I recall, it was a similar experience with my wife looking for new lamps that prompted me to see if I could fix the old ones, Sueann! They are expensive! Glad this helped you, too!
What is the watt for the lamp?
60 watt would be typical, kvdgadj, but I believe this replacement fixture was for a three way light bulb so it had different brightness levels with each turn of the switch.
- Jeeze Rusty, U should have watched a few "how to" videos before attempting to show others how to replace a lamp cord. There're some really good ones. "Know How Now" on How to replace a Lamp Cord comes to mind.
Thanks for watching one of my most poorly viewed videos of all time, Lady! And then you give me a hard time about it to boot! 😀 I actually thought it was a pretty good video myself. My viewers would rather see me build floating shelves or set tile than repair a lamp. What made you decide to watch it anyway?
@@RustyDobbs Just thumbing thru ‘lamp repair’ videos & didn’t want to ‘flub it up’ (grin, giggle, LOL). I’m planning to make floating shelves. I’ll certainly watch your take on that. Thanx.
I'm curious as to why you didn't just replace the socket rather than hassling with the new cord?
@@johndevine7447 He didn't know, obviously, and opted for a whole kit with cord and a total dismantle.
I found a "step on" switch on eBay just like I needed.
:)
Thanks, Marc!
😀A gray hair like you should've known how to replace just the socket (the brass part) to service the faulty switch. *Unless your wife told you she hated the yellow cord and wanted it gone, you did it the difficult, wasteful way. Poor viewers--who thought they had to destroy the cord and dismantle the whole lamp to fix the switch.
For everyone else: Start the video at 6:50. As shown, pry or pull apart the socket leaving the base on the lamp (a slender flat blade screwdriver works well), unscrew the two wire terminals so you can remove and discard the switch portion. The rest should be self explanatory.
You might want to take this video down and re-do it. Do some closeups of the wiring part. I'd be ashamed, personally, if this was my work. All in good fun. 😄
Yes, but the thumbnail is good! And I think of the hair color as 'ash blonde'. I'll let you handle the correction video!