Just inherited my great grandfathers 1948 Cub. Just came across your videos and I am SO thankful. Tractor set for 30 years so I am certain I will be using all you videos for guidance. Also purchased your book.
Hi Rachel! That brings back fond memories of changing the oil in Grandpa's 1955 Cub, the first tractor I ever drove or used. You reminded me of Grandpa when you used your foot to push in the switch button. 😊
Greetings from Back Creek Valley, WV. I recently became the proud owner of a 1949 cub that hasn't been messed with too badly, but still needs a lot of TLC. If you can apply the word "cute" to a tractor, the cub certainly fits. Your book has been great in knowing what to do...just wish I had your skill in doing it. Thanks to your videos and book I'm hooked and so is my hired hand who is also a young woman that doesn't mind a little dirt and grease. She is really impressed with what you've done and continue to do. We'd both love to see a similar book on the Ford 600 series, of which I have owned one for 27 years and just inherited 3 more. Since the inherited ones all need extensive work, we could really use your type of guide. Please keep these videos coming.
This brought back some memories for me. Where I grew up in Upstate NY there were quite a few of these tractors on the small family farms. They were extremely smooth running machines and very durable. We actually had the IH 184 'lo boy' which had a very similar engine to the Cub. Back then we got our supplies from the local IH dealer. They used to sell straight 30 weight 'low ash' oil that we recommended for these tractors.
Great job explaining how it’s done. You make it look so easy. Wife and I would love to own a Farmall Cub one day. They are neat tractors! Thanks Rachel! 🚜👍
I always enjoy your videos! Recently, I was having some problem with my 1974 Farmall 140 with it starting but shutting off after about a minute and not starting again until awhile later but it seems to be running fine now. Also, I added a little Sta-Bil Marine to the gas tank to help with the ethanol etc.
FYI,. If you ever get some carburetor cleaner, lacquer thinner, etc in your eyes. Quick as you can. Get to a fan, compressed air etc. While letting a little air blow on your face. Gently open you eye even if you have to use your fingers. The air blowing will evaporate the solvent pretty quickly. Had this happen several times actually. Wow! Does it sting!!! But mine always resoved quickly with the air trick.
Tried 15-40 and oil pressure fell to 8-10 lbs. Dumped it and put in SAE30 and the pressure came back up to normal. Also if your air filter element has never been cleaned it would be a good idea to do it. It takes a little effort to remove the filter housing. Soak and rinse the filter with varsol or eq. Dont forget to clean the intake tube. It is crazy how much gunk there is in the filter and tube. Check the vent tube running from the engine to the filter canister they are usually plugged.
Hi Rachel, Just got a '48 and FWIW.. it's easy to add a tach / hour meter via a "Tiny Tach" ... Self powered w/ an internal battery and uses a sense wire wrapped around one of the plug wires. EZ Peesy.. 😎 ps love the book !! Thank you
Quick question, aren't supposed to drain the oil filter housing by removing the wing plug from the pipe below the filter housing? Also, shouldn't you replace the metal washer on the filter bolt too? Thanks
I enjoy all your videos and you Cub Encyclopedia is a great book! I wonder, however, why your oil change instructions don't include removing the cap on the pipe behind the starter so as to drain all the oil that remains in the casting which houses the oil filter. There is often a goodly amount (over 1 cup) of dirty oil in both that casting and the pipe, not to mention all the particulates that settle to the bottom. All of which is why IH put that pipe and cap there in the first place. Taking off that cap (in addition to draining the oil pan) makes sure the new oil isn't immediately mixed with more old, dirty oil than necessary.
I bought a 64 IH Cub a month or so ago, and just changed the engine oil and filter, when I removed the drain for the oil filter it was plugged solid, and probably 1/8 inch deep in the housing. After cleaning the pipe I used mineral spirits and rags to clean the housing and flush it three times to get clean rinse. IH put the drain there for a reason, seems a lot of people overlook this pretty important step. If you are in a hurry a couple skipped filter draining want hurt, but it will start to accumulate in the housing. Rachels book doesn't mention the drain, but does say to install the filter with the small end down. The video say something about the lable, or the writing being right side up, but on the wix filter the # is upside down.
Rachel a great video,This is a very common problem with the likes of a lot of these tractor's ,leaving them out with out cover and setting over winter ,when spring comes ,you find the clutch has rusted to the flywheel or the trans spline has frozen to the clutch spline perhaps your father could help you on a video down the road on this ,and a way of fixing it without parting it. Charlie.
I commented on another one of your videos, but since you did a dyno video for different types of gas I was hoping you would do one on wether or not a straight pipe or muffler will give the antique tractor puller more power. It's an age old argument I know. But it would be interesting to see the results on a dyno, maybe a farmall and a john deere.
Great video. subbed. We've got 2 Famall Cubs '50 and '53........I have hydraulic fluid leaking into our oil system so we need to replace the hydraulic pump seal......can you all do a video or send me a resource? We constantly have to put oil into the hydraulic reservoir ..... thanks
Thanks Rachel! I was wondering if the oil filter housing needs to be drained also. Does housing drain into the oil pan somehow? I have seen that wing nut broken on some Cubs, so I would only tighten it by hand. BTW, I have your book displayed on the workbench in my barn. It's great info and a fun conversation piece when friends stop by. I also purchased a 15 min phone troubleshooting conversation with Dan a while back. He got the Cub running. Thanks Dan!
I found that instead of placing my filter in with words up, I had to reverse for the bolt to go in. I now suspect it won’t work that way either due to the other side of the filter pass through being too small.
You use 15-40 and I love that idea, but is it a modern synthetic or conventional oil? Many say to stay away from synthetic in these old motors. Please get back since I’m waiting for parts from your site and would love to know before putting the standard Sae 30 for its first oil change in what I’m guessing decades!
On target with the use of 15-40 and a conventional oil....spoke to the tech department at Valvoline and they informed me not to use synthetic on old tractors....Cub, 8N or whatever....synthetic will leak pass the seals...not worth the risk....conventional 15-40 diesel oil the way to go! Never had a problem.....I use Mobil or Valvoline Premium Blue....Some like Shell....really choice is yours!
One thing she missed was draining the oil filter drain tube. But almost everyone misses that. Not unusual to find them having never been drained or cleaned in the life of the Cub.
Also the Hollow Bolt holding filter lid down has two holes in bottom of it as Vent and needs also to be cleaned out with a small wire on side of bolt and in the end of the bolt up in it aways. Those Vents are crucial to good Oil Flow and Pressure.
Hi Miss Rachel. I have a 51 cub and there was no apparatus or hose connecting the carb to the air stack when I purchased it . Is it ok to bypass the stack with an air filter that fits securely on the carb air intake? I am using a four or five inch so cylindrical filter with a foam sheath. Thanks for the videos and I will certainly purchase your encyclopedia!
Question? I have a Farmall Cub and need a bunch of parts such as the carb, fuel sediment bowl, new spark plug wiring, probably a new distributor and other miscellaneous items my tractor is still the 6 volt system does this encyclopedia cover part numbers and show diagrams on all these systems? If so does your website carry these replacement parts?
Not going to lie, I thought there was a little more to this. I saw on another website that these Cubs take 10W-30, would that work too? I don't know a lot about engine oil.
Hey Rachel, help me out with a little info. I saw a tractor in a local show quite a long time ago. Pretty sure it's a Ford Ferguson. Very stock looking, but equipped with a Ford V-8 engine. I believe it was a 289, or another Windsor base powerplant. Was that a production tractor?
Question about your oil choice; not so much the 15/40 vs 30 but is it detergent or non-detergent? I used SAE30 detergent when last changed the oil in my 52 Cub and it stop running shortly after (7 years now) -- I will get it running again someday. I also have an H and don't want the same thing to happen. I did see and love the in-frame engine rebuild video and you also mentioned the same oil there. Love all your videos, I'll be requesting the book for Father's Day.
Hmm...oil shouldn't spoil an engine, but if the tractor had non-detergent for 50 years and then switched to detergent oil it could make the engine smoke. I always choose 15-40 oil and never use 30 W, but if I had to use 30W I'd go with non-detergent instead of detergent (especially since I don't know what oil has been put in the tractor for it's prior oil changes).
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Thank You and Your Dad. Happy to see the tradition continues. Tony Allemand
Just inherited my great grandfathers 1948 Cub. Just came across your videos and I am SO thankful. Tractor set for 30 years so I am certain I will be using all you videos for guidance. Also purchased your book.
Hi Rachel! That brings back fond memories of changing the oil in Grandpa's 1955 Cub, the first tractor I ever drove or used. You reminded me of Grandpa when you used your foot to push in the switch button. 😊
Nice to see a young person keeping the old tractors going. Good on you
Watching these videos makes me want to get Dad's old 1959 British made B-250 diesel out of the barn and start restoring her!
Greetings from Back Creek Valley, WV. I recently became the proud owner of a 1949 cub that hasn't been messed with too badly, but still needs a lot of TLC. If you can apply the word "cute" to a tractor, the cub certainly fits. Your book has been great in knowing what to do...just wish I had your skill in doing it. Thanks to your videos and book I'm hooked and so is my hired hand who is also a young woman that doesn't mind a little dirt and grease. She is really impressed with what you've done and continue to do. We'd both love to see a similar book on the Ford 600 series, of which I have owned one for 27 years and just inherited 3 more. Since the inherited ones all need extensive work, we could really use your type of guide. Please keep these videos coming.
I have a 1939 9n, and a 850 jubilee not sure what year, that I'm fixing to rebuild, keep doing what your doing, your a good instructor.
Why didn't you remove the drain plug for the filter? I also would normally put oil on the gasket.
This brought back some memories for me. Where I grew up in Upstate NY there were quite a few of these tractors on the small family farms. They were extremely smooth running machines and very durable. We actually had the IH 184 'lo boy' which had a very similar engine to the Cub. Back then we got our supplies from the local IH dealer. They used to sell straight 30 weight 'low ash' oil that we recommended for these tractors.
I bought the book and a Cub. Looking forward to restoring it this winter. Thank you for the videos and book.
Great job explaining how it’s done. You make it look so easy. Wife and I would love to own a Farmall Cub one day. They are neat tractors! Thanks Rachel! 🚜👍
Just got a 1958 Cub and these videos are awesome! Keep them coming!
i need to see where a lower radiator hose is changed ., havent seen anything to do with that yet
Good video. I just bought a 63 Cub from a neighbor. I'm starting to get it running again and this video helped. THANKS!
Hey Rachael, big fan. You forgot to drain the oil out of the oil filter housing. No biggie, look forward to buying your book.
I always enjoy your videos! Recently, I was having some problem with my 1974 Farmall 140 with it starting but shutting off after about a minute and not starting again until awhile later but it seems to be running fine now. Also, I added a little Sta-Bil Marine to the gas tank to help with the ethanol etc.
FYI,. If you ever get some carburetor cleaner, lacquer thinner, etc in your eyes. Quick as you can. Get to a fan, compressed air etc. While letting a little air blow on your face. Gently open you eye even if you have to use your fingers. The air blowing will evaporate the solvent pretty quickly. Had this happen several times actually. Wow! Does it sting!!! But mine always resoved quickly with the air trick.
Thank you for the Cub video ! We just bought one yesterday " Non Runner sat for two years " Should be a fun project .
Tried 15-40 and oil pressure fell to 8-10 lbs. Dumped it and put in SAE30 and the pressure came back up to normal. Also if your air filter element has never been cleaned it would be a good idea to do it. It takes a little effort to remove the filter housing. Soak and rinse the filter with varsol or eq. Dont forget to clean the intake tube. It is crazy how much gunk there is in the filter and tube. Check the vent tube running from the engine to the filter canister they are usually plugged.
Hi Rachel,
Just got a '48 and FWIW.. it's easy to add a tach / hour meter via a "Tiny Tach" ... Self powered w/ an internal battery and uses a sense wire wrapped around one of the plug wires. EZ Peesy.. 😎 ps love the book !! Thank you
Quick question, aren't supposed to drain the oil filter housing by removing the wing plug from the pipe below the filter housing? Also, shouldn't you replace the metal washer on the filter bolt too? Thanks
I enjoy all your videos and you Cub Encyclopedia is a great book! I wonder, however, why your oil change instructions don't include removing the cap on the pipe behind the starter so as to drain all the oil that remains in the casting which houses the oil filter. There is often a goodly amount (over 1 cup) of dirty oil in both that casting and the pipe, not to mention all the particulates that settle to the bottom. All of which is why IH put that pipe and cap there in the first place. Taking off that cap (in addition to draining the oil pan) makes sure the new oil isn't immediately mixed with more old, dirty oil than necessary.
Thanks Rachel you do some very good tractor videos. I will look out for more in the future. They are very helpful.
I bought a 64 IH Cub a month or so ago, and just changed the engine oil and filter, when I removed the drain for the oil filter it was plugged solid, and probably 1/8 inch deep in the housing. After cleaning the pipe I used mineral spirits and rags to clean the housing and flush it three times to get clean rinse. IH put the drain there for a reason, seems a lot of people overlook this pretty important step. If you are in a hurry a couple skipped filter draining want hurt, but it will start to accumulate in the housing. Rachels book doesn't mention the drain, but does say to install the filter with the small end down. The video say something about the lable, or the writing being right side up, but on the wix filter the # is upside down.
@jamesglavich1426 I guess we all need to buy your how to book and subscribe to your how to channel. what’s the name of those?… 😶
Thank you for the videos! Always watch them and they are very helpful! Currently working on a Massey to35.
What about changeing head gast on a 8n
Rachel a great video,This is a very common problem with the likes of a lot of these tractor's ,leaving them out with out cover and setting over winter ,when spring comes ,you find the clutch has rusted to the flywheel or the trans spline has frozen to the clutch spline perhaps your father could help you on a video down the road on this ,and a way of fixing it without parting it. Charlie.
Hi Rachel.
Great video as always.
Nice video with lots of detail (wrench sizes).
How do you tell the year of the cub tractor by the serial number
I commented on another one of your videos, but since you did a dyno video for different types of gas I was hoping you would do one on wether or not a straight pipe or muffler will give the antique tractor puller more power. It's an age old argument I know. But it would be interesting to see the results on a dyno, maybe a farmall and a john deere.
Two channels that might have those videos would be Farmall Doctor and Mark Sandschafer.
It would add very minimal hp/tq but every thing helps.
Great video. subbed. We've got 2 Famall Cubs '50 and '53........I have hydraulic fluid leaking into our oil system so we need to replace the hydraulic pump seal......can you all do a video or send me a resource? We constantly have to put oil into the hydraulic reservoir ..... thanks
Fantastic thanks so much for your vids!! So helpful “Oil police” classic.
very nice video I enjoy watching you take care of your tractors
Why do you use diesel 1540 oil
Great video. Have the book (and a 1949 Cub). Going to subscribe
Thanks Rachel! I was wondering if the oil filter housing needs to be drained also. Does housing drain into the oil pan somehow? I have seen that wing nut broken on some Cubs, so I would only tighten it by hand.
BTW, I have your book displayed on the workbench in my barn.
It's great info and a fun conversation piece when friends stop by.
I also purchased a 15 min phone troubleshooting conversation with Dan a while back. He got the Cub running. Thanks Dan!
I have 4 cubs 54 ag...3 lo-boys, one of which is a 61 industrial....surprised she did not drain the filter housing....not sure why?
I found that instead of placing my filter in with words up, I had to reverse for the bolt to go in. I now suspect it won’t work that way either due to the other side of the filter pass through being too small.
Hey Rachel, if I buy that cub book would you do one for the ford n series tractors? Please?
6:13 "I am not the oil police, so you can do whatever you please" !! I laughed
America's sweetheart. I just love this girl.
You use 15-40 and I love that idea, but is it a modern synthetic or conventional oil? Many say to stay away from synthetic in these old motors. Please get back since I’m waiting for parts from your site and would love to know before putting the standard Sae 30 for its first oil change in what I’m guessing decades!
On target with the use of 15-40 and a conventional oil....spoke to the tech department at Valvoline and they informed me not to use synthetic on old tractors....Cub, 8N or whatever....synthetic will leak pass the seals...not worth the risk....conventional 15-40 diesel oil the way to go! Never had a problem.....I use Mobil or Valvoline Premium Blue....Some like Shell....really choice is yours!
@@rogerwilliams7541 Awesome info....thanks so much!
Great video thank you for all your hard work making the videos for us
6:13 she finally cracked a joke. Nice!
One thing she missed was draining the oil filter drain tube. But almost everyone misses that. Not unusual to find them having never been drained or cleaned in the life of the Cub.
Also the Hollow Bolt holding filter lid down has two holes in bottom of it as Vent and needs also to be cleaned out with a small wire on side of bolt and in the end of the bolt up in it aways. Those Vents are crucial to good Oil Flow and Pressure.
Very impressive. Thanks.
Hi Miss Rachel. I have a 51 cub and there was no apparatus or hose connecting the carb to the air stack when I purchased it . Is it ok to bypass the stack with an air filter that fits securely on the carb air intake? I am using a four or five inch so cylindrical filter with a foam sheath. Thanks for the videos and I will certainly purchase your encyclopedia!
Brian Keith my opinion: anything is better than an oil bath filter.
Yes, for sure.
@@DanGingell Great and thanks for responding.
Question? I have a Farmall Cub and need a bunch of parts such as the carb, fuel sediment bowl, new spark plug wiring, probably a new distributor and other miscellaneous items my tractor is still the 6 volt system does this encyclopedia cover part numbers and show diagrams on all these systems? If so does your website carry these replacement parts?
Great video
Rachel are like Angel Mechanic
Not going to lie, I thought there was a little more to this. I saw on another website that these Cubs take 10W-30, would that work too? I don't know a lot about engine oil.
nice job explaining Great video as always
Great job!
I'm bummed I sold my Farmall A a few years back. I'll be getting my Dad's 40's Ford 8N soon! If you're not the oil police, who is?
Hey Rachel, help me out with a little info. I saw a tractor in a local show quite a long time ago. Pretty sure it's a Ford Ferguson. Very stock looking, but equipped with a Ford V-8 engine. I believe it was a 289, or another Windsor base powerplant. Was that a production tractor?
J W Good eye JW...I miss that one myself on occasion.
Yes, everyone around here had a couple.
Looks like some folks put in 110 HP flat heads too. 55 mph, no thanks.
Not originally equipped I don't beleive.
Great video, thanks.
Question about your oil choice; not so much the 15/40 vs 30 but is it detergent or non-detergent? I used SAE30 detergent when last changed the oil in my 52 Cub and it stop running shortly after (7 years now) -- I will get it running again someday. I also have an H and don't want the same thing to happen. I did see and love the in-frame engine rebuild video and you also mentioned the same oil there.
Love all your videos, I'll be requesting the book for Father's Day.
Hmm...oil shouldn't spoil an engine, but if the tractor had non-detergent for 50 years and then switched to detergent oil it could make the engine smoke. I always choose 15-40 oil and never use 30 W, but if I had to use 30W I'd go with non-detergent instead of detergent (especially since I don't know what oil has been put in the tractor for it's prior oil changes).
@@DanGingell thanks for the response. I was told by an old farmer (now passed) that I the detergent oil cleaned it out so that it lost compression.
Hi Rachell could send your web site address for ordering tractor parts, thank-you
I use that same 15w40 but only Castrol different brand in ih b275 And soon after the lock down I will show you guys the tractor in my video
But you did a good job
How much would you charge to come to Texas and change mine?
Good work
I'm not the oil police, you can do as you please.
That rhymes.
Uhhh. No it doesn't?
The one stop for antique tractors, why go anywhere else.
Your the best
Thank goodness you aren't the oil police there are plenty of those already.
STRANGE QUESTION . HAS ANYONE EVER ADJUSTED THE SEAT FURTHER BACK?
Isn’t that oil your putting in is Diesel oil
Good good luck 👍
Good and good ✋
The encyclopedia has a centrefold? ;)
yep your mother's picture!
@@GM-pe1ws Im sure she wont fit on only 2 pages..
The thumb down must be someone you jilted!
Wow the first view on a video ever holy geeze!
Carb cleaner in the eyes burns.
That tractor is a gas burn .