Should the tail threads of a new radiator be rusted/have metal debris in the threads and, thus, it is impossible to screw in the valve tails by hand by even the smallest amount? Should screwing in with the spanner be VERY stiff on such a new radiator and cause a crunching noise to occur when doing so? Should the number of threads on the radiator tail be significantly less than that on the valve tail? If this can be the case, does one screw in the valve tail until just one thread is showing, ie way past the number of threads in the radiator tail itself? Even if screwing in thus is excruciating stiff with 5 or 6 threads of the tail still showing? Does it sound like we have been sold a 2nd-hand duff radiator as new? It arrived without plastic plugs in the tail. Metal debris was on the tails; could be felt easily on the fingers. The debris inside the bleed valve was even worse and the bleed valve itself immediately failed to shut after bleeding once filled up. New bleed valve seemed to solve that, but water bleeds out of the tails after radiator gets hot and cools down. I suppose I did only put 10 wraps of PTFE tape on, but I would assume the PTFE got destroyed by the crunching that occurred when screwing in the tails as far as they would go, ie with 4-6 threads still showing.
Hi Rodney, that is a lot of information in one post. Let me see if I can answer. I would not think that your rad inlets should have rust in them, though it is not overly uncommon for there to be metal debris - as this is part of the build process. As for there being noises, I expect there would be noise - it is metal on metal - so there would be some noise. I would also WANT them to be tight, as they need to be tight to be secure. The number of threads doesn't have to correspond exactly from radiator to tail and I would screw it in till you can't physically screw it in anymore. I couldn't comment as to if it is old or new, but if there were no blanking or bleed plugs attached, it doesn't sound great. Did you get it from our store? If you did, email info@bestheating.com and someone can look into the order details for you. Are you certain that you go the correct size of radiator tail/valve? I wish I could offer more, but it very difficult to give accurate info without seeing and touching the appliance. As I am sure you can imagine, I am a little blind to the issue on this side of my computer screen. Thanks, John
Hi Borya, It's a Hudson Reed radiator, that unfortunately is no longer in production and sold in our store. The closest I could find to it, is this one from Milano Heating - www.bestheating.com/traditional-13-x-2-column-radiator-cast-iron-style-white-23-6-x-30-56.html
Well Bryan, as you could replace your radiators at any time, we would say that it doesn't really make a difference. Just do what you think will be more practical and easier to achieve.
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Should the tail threads of a new radiator be rusted/have metal debris in the threads and, thus, it is impossible to screw in the valve tails by hand by even the smallest amount? Should screwing in with the spanner be VERY stiff on such a new radiator and cause a crunching noise to occur when doing so? Should the number of threads on the radiator tail be significantly less than that on the valve tail? If this can be the case, does one screw in the valve tail until just one thread is showing, ie way past the number of threads in the radiator tail itself? Even if screwing in thus is excruciating stiff with 5 or 6 threads of the tail still showing? Does it sound like we have been sold a 2nd-hand duff radiator as new? It arrived without plastic plugs in the tail. Metal debris was on the tails; could be felt easily on the fingers. The debris inside the bleed valve was even worse and the bleed valve itself immediately failed to shut after bleeding once filled up. New bleed valve seemed to solve that, but water bleeds out of the tails after radiator gets hot and cools down. I suppose I did only put 10 wraps of PTFE tape on, but I would assume the PTFE got destroyed by the crunching that occurred when screwing in the tails as far as they would go, ie with 4-6 threads still showing.
Hi Rodney, that is a lot of information in one post. Let me see if I can answer. I would not think that your rad inlets should have rust in them, though it is not overly uncommon for there to be metal debris - as this is part of the build process. As for there being noises, I expect there would be noise - it is metal on metal - so there would be some noise. I would also WANT them to be tight, as they need to be tight to be secure. The number of threads doesn't have to correspond exactly from radiator to tail and I would screw it in till you can't physically screw it in anymore. I couldn't comment as to if it is old or new, but if there were no blanking or bleed plugs attached, it doesn't sound great. Did you get it from our store? If you did, email info@bestheating.com and someone can look into the order details for you. Are you certain that you go the correct size of radiator tail/valve? I wish I could offer more, but it very difficult to give accurate info without seeing and touching the appliance. As I am sure you can imagine, I am a little blind to the issue on this side of my computer screen. Thanks, John
Good
What brand is that radiator? Looks very nice.
Hi Borya, It's a Hudson Reed radiator, that unfortunately is no longer in production and sold in our store. The closest I could find to it, is this one from Milano Heating - www.bestheating.com/traditional-13-x-2-column-radiator-cast-iron-style-white-23-6-x-30-56.html
diggers
I am getting new radiators and new Window boards. Is it best to do the radiator first or doesn't it matter?
Well Bryan, as you could replace your radiators at any time, we would say that it doesn't really make a difference. Just do what you think will be more practical and easier to achieve.
BestHeating thank you. Keep up the great videos : )
Good luck with the fitting :-)
Does the air vent need ptfe tape too?
Hi Sarah, if you mean the bleed valve, then no. You don't need to do anything to that at all.
Yes I did mean the bleed valve, thank you :)