What is mudjacking? Raising and leveling settled concrete!
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- Опубликовано: 10 май 2017
- This video is showing how I have been raising and leveling settled concrete. This is called MUDJACKING, and I have been running a successful mudjacking business for 26 years.
You can check out my website to get a free estimate for northern Illinois and southern Wisconsin at www.eliteconcreteraising.com
That was amazing the way you leveled it out, great job! Thanks for sharing
Mudjacking - I never heard that term. Now I know. This is a great alternative to re-doing the entire driveway. Jeff, you are multi-talented. Woodworking, metal work and concrete.
Thanks Don. I appreciate you watching and commenting. The repair done in this video cost 1/10th the replacement estimate the customer already had gotten. When done correctly, with the right material, mudjacking can be a fantastic solution for most concrete problems.
I have seen this done a few times and it works well. Neat to know more about what you do.
Thanks, Brian. I had this done to my first home back in 1987, and thought it would be a great business to get into. I was right.
Had that done on the slab under my deck in Colorado. It was around 1990. Worked great, and as I remember, not all that expensive.
Definitely a cost effective alternative. Thanks for watching.
Congratulation to your success, not many people have heard of this!
In 1976 after spring flooding I received a contract to raise a concrete approach to a highway bridge. We used a similar method to accomplish the raising. I'm glad to see you've perfected the method to a 'high standard'. That was very well done. Show some more and a few more details.
....13
PS: I'm not going to be a competitor, been retired a few years now. I just enjoy watching all kinds of construction work as that was my profession.
Thank you. I will certainly do another video on this later, showing some more difficult projects that we do all the time.
Excellent video! Very informative! And I can vouch for your work- several time!
Thanks, buddy. Thanks for finally watching one.....ha ha.
Had no idea before but explained well and showed well
Thanks for watching. Glad you liked the video.
Neat video. One question! Since it is under high pressure how can the nozzle stay in the slab hole without only foot pressure? Thanks for the video. Tom
I just learned something new. Thank you
Looks like a great job
Thanks, Dave, for watching!
Thank you Jeff!
facinating, I did not know this existed. Of course I'm not at that pay grade. Don't envy those that are. Happy for anyone who has money enough fro these problems.
Thanks for watching!
Good One, thinking that myself after you mentioned it.
allsome!!! GOOD JOB!
Thanks, Ron, and thanks for watching.
COOL nice work .
Thanks for watching again, Robert.
I've poured concrete for 50 years. ALWAYS leave the outside slab at least 1/2 to 3/4 inch lower so water doesn't come inside.
great video. bought a mudd pump for $75 at an auction. gonna try to do this myself.
totally awesome .............. great job. I wish you were in Central Illinois
Thanks for watching!
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HowellSlabJacking.com is The Oldest, Most Experienced SlabJackers in Our Area!
Family Trade since 1989
Serving Central Illinois & Central Indiana.
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that is awesome!
Thanks Dru.
Hi Jeff, OWWM'er here. Nice work !
Thanks Tom for watching. SUBSCRIBE!!!
Thanks for watching. If you can find some one in your area that pumps mortar like we do, it's much better than poly foam. Foam is a cheap alternative. If it was better I'd be doing it. 26 years experience speaking to you.
Great video. I'm in need of doing this to a driveway and garage. Debating between mudjacking and poly level. Can you give me your opinion and experience with this?
Marcos & Angi Romero go mudjack
Do that here in P.A! Goes well with waterproofing
I used to do epoxy injection waterproofing....for about 20 years. I got tired of crawling around in wet crawlspaces. More streamline these days.....the business, that is.
Jeff, did you drill to void fill the middle of the slab too? Or only along the edge to lift near the doors. I have recently purchased a mudjacking company and would really appreciate your input! Thanks
Yes, a 2nd row of holes is drilled to fill the voids in the center of the slab. Not shown in the video due to keeping the length short, but done on all jobs where warranted.
Can you pick 16" footings with an 8' wall above? Do you sell your equipment to other contractors around the country or is some other brand available? I am not in your area but know of a fella that has his daylight basement settling (poor ground under the structure and not compacted thirty years ago) and could use the process. Thanks for the info and merry Xmas. Take care. Doug
Mudjacking is not designed for lifting footings and foundation walls. You will need to find someone who does foundation lifting. It's underpinning, and is a different process.
I'm sure this confirms that I'm a dork, but that's freaking cool!
No way, Eric! I thought it was so freaking cool 30 years ago that I made it my life's work, along with woodworking. Thanks for watching.
What is the average costs?
That's great.
Do you do this during the winter months or only in the warmer months?? My house was built in 1951, I have a sidewalk that butts up side by side to a garage. In the winter months the entire length of the sidewalk tips towards the garage, and then when the weather warms up, it goes back. Do you do work in Des Plaines?
This is a seasonal business, and we shut down for the winter when the ground is frozen. Start up, each spring, depends on when the ground is thawed. We do not go to Des Plaines. Too far away from Crystal Lake. Thanks for watching.
@@JeffHeathTheVintageWorkshop But you do go to Glenview........according to Mapquest, it's only a 4 mile difference, but that's OK.............I'll find someone else.
Jeff, somewhere in the comments you said to avoid polyurethane (because of a high failure rate) and crushed limestone. You do what is called mudjacking, where you "pump a mortar mix that has portland cement in it. It sets up hard, and lasts a very, very, very long time". Can you please tell me why you advise against the crushed limestone?
PS I live in the Detroit area, and the quote I received for the poly foam was 2.3 times more expensive than the quote I received for the alternative....but I am not sure now what is that alternative, mudjacking or crushed limestone. The non-poly contractor said he uses crushed something or other. (However, the non-poly contractor will also help me with my bent fence posts caused by the reckless tree contractor while removing the tree that caused the my driveway problem in the first place).
@@painterlady7931 Crushed limestone is the same base contractors use for setting paver blocks. In areas with freeze and thaw cycles, (Detroit certainly qualifies), the limestone is susceptible to washout. I can't imagine why your quote for polyurethane foam is 2 to 3 times as high. It's a cheap alternative, and that material costs 1/2 what it costs us to mix our mortar and pump it. Crushed limestone is a very inexpensive material, and I wouldn't expect it to last a very long time if I were you. The contractors that used to pump crushed limestone around here are all out of business, as far as I know. I don't recommend the poly, either, because it crushes easily, and is biodegradable. If that's all you have to work with, then you've got to do what you've got to do.
Nice work make it to California lol? what is the cost of something like this just wondering ?
Chris Anderson Around here we are anywhere from 10% to 20% of replacement cost. I couldn't know for Cali.
For foundations that are shallow, like a garage or crawl space- Is there any danger to the foundation drain tile being crushed thereby rendering the drain tile useless?
You have to know where the location of the drain tile is. Drain tile is typically found next to the footing, not up high where a slab is found. If you are pumping any material right next to a drain tile, there's always a risk of filling it and rendering it useless, but if you know what you're doing (we do) that risk is mitigated with experience.
My job would be way too small for you to come to the Peoria / Springfield area.
We only stay local. I'm sure you can find a qualified mudjacking contractor in your area.
Wow!
Thanks for watching.
I have a VERY POORLY constructed slab on stem wall. The concrete has cracked but not settled. clearly the supporting backfill ( supporting fill dirt) was not compacted and the dirt compacted ONLY due to the weight of the poorer concrete.
(.you can HEAR the “ hollow” unsupported slab by simply tapping on it with a hammer)
So how do you inject “ only enough” mud to support the slab but not raise it?
Could that be done for inside the house floors? I have an uneven floor inside my house.
You need to speak with your local concrete raising contractor to see the project in person. I do a fair amount of work inside buildings, as long as I have external access. My pump runs off of a gasoline powered motor, which creates dangerous exhaust fumes. It cannot be operated indoors, but I can run a long pumping hose from a nearby doorway or window to get a lot of interior work completed.
may i know what kind of machine you use for that mud jacking? i like to also buy one here. im from the philippines.
is that machine able to use mud and concrete?
I make my concrete raising pumps myself. We don't pump mud. We pump a mortar mix that has portland cement in it. It sets up hard, and lasts a very, very, very long time.
Great Job Jeff. As a retired bricklayer I wonder if your method would work where footings for brick veneer work that have settled could be raised? Just checking for my own interest, Greg.
Greg, I get calls for that sort of work all the time. The answer is, it depends on how the footings were poured. If they are wide enough, we can pump under them and straighten out fireplaces, and other brick walls. We do that sort of work from time to time. Some, we just have to pass, as they don't have a good enough footing.
Is it safe to mudjack cement slabs around a pool? will it push toward the pool wall?
Every pool is not built the same way, so it depends. Pools with concrete walls will not push in as long as they are in good condition. What really matters is how the deck was poured, what type of coping, and how much angle iron/steel was used in the joint. Easily assessed by an onsite inspection.
It would have been nice to see how you patched the holes
Fill the holes with Sakrete sand mix.
@@JeffHeathTheVintageWorkshop thank you for the response
Great video...............So how do I determine a good slab raiser in my area (KCMO metro). I'm disabled and would rather not get took.
Look for a company that has been in business for a while, and check out their online ratings. Try and find a company that is pumping a mortar mix, like we do, and avoid crushed limestone or polyurethane foam, if you can. Thanks for watching.
Nice work, now you can come do my house :)
Can this be done inside the house? ?
It really depends on the situation, and the contractor doing the work for you. My mudjacking pump is gasoline engine powered, so I don't bring it indoors due to exhaust fumes. I have done a LOT of work inside homes where close access via a sliding door allows us to leave the machine outside, but bring the hose inside for pumping.
How long after until you can drive in it again?
It really depends on the situation. No ironfast rule, but typically 24 hours. We raise some loading docks that have 75,000 lb. trucks driving on them, and for those, it's 72 hours. Normal use is a day or less.
Approximately how much does a job like this cost?
Every job is different, and every company is different. This particular job is from 4 years ago, so pricing wouldn't be relevant today. I offer a free estimate if you are in my area. Driveways can cost anywhere from $400 on up to over $1000, depending on how big the driveway is, and how many inches it needs to be raised. Easily assessed on site.
is any body doing this in the uk?
I honestly don't know
There was bad soil under the driveway causing it to settle. So you added a tremendous amount of weight (your concrete slurry) to fix it. Shame is that because of the weight it will settle again but this time faster. Homeowner didn’t research enough or they would have gone with poly injection which would have added maybe 100lbs.
There is so much misinformation in your comment that I simply must reply to clear up the misconceptions that poly-foam guys continue to talk about. You don't need a PhD in concrete industrial applications to know that a portland cement based mixture of sand, clay, and portland does NOT bond to a cured concrete slab. Period. It's called a cold joint for a reason, and it's exactly why foundations for homes are poured in one continuous pour, and also why you install control joints in flat work. As a business, I installed new concrete flatwork for 22 years. We specialized in stamped decorative concrete. I've taken out literally hundreds of slabs that I had mudjacked 10 to 15 years previous, as quite a few of my customers wanted to replace their regular concrete slabs with decorative stamped concrete. Most of my customers were previous customers from the mudjacking side of our company. Not once, in any instance, did our portland based concrete raising mix bond to the bottom of any slab. Not once ever. Your statement is simply false. The fact is, polyurethane foam injection is the cheap alternative to raising concrete for long term satisfactory results. I've been in business for 30 years, and have a consistent track record of jobs lasting about 20 years. Just last year, we completed 2053 jobs as a company. This year, I got ONE......yep, just one call back for warranty work. It was actually from 2018, but I took care of the customer anyway. No sense in worrying about 1 single warranty job. I get a chance to talk to concrete raising contractors all over the country who are interested in purchasing a proper pump from me, and many of them have switched from poly-foam back to a cement based material because they are sick and tired of all the warranty work and problems. There are plenty examples of companies injecting foam that have gone completely out of business, with a lot of BBB complaints, because they don't honor their warranty claims. Good luck with your foam business. Sooner or later, you'll come to understand that the most important factor to a proper concrete raising job, well done, is to create compressive resistance to the gravitation forces of heavy concrete slabs. Your beloved polyurethane foam injection has an 11% strength ratio compared to a portland cement based mortar. Our material is not biodegradable either. Best of luck to you. Oh, and by the way, concrete base isn't "bad soil", it's compacted grade 9 gravel. No reputable concrete installation contractor installs soil as a base. It's simply not allowed by code in any city or township or county that I perform raising work in.