I love how much attention to detail and decoration there was on these old houses. Every part had interest and drew the eye. Modern cookie cutter houses are cheap and boring as well. Glad I bought an 80 year old house with lots of character to restore!
Agreed! The materials and attention to detail found in old homes is basically irreplaceable. We cannot afford to build like this anymore and few have the skill. Enjoy your old home and the restoration process.
Doing some more infrared tool videos is definitely on the to-do-list. This was just a basic project site walk around but stay tuned for more on infrared paint removal.
It really depends on the paint brand if we recommend a "primer" coat of the Purified Linseed Oil or a 30% paint to 70% Purified Linseed Oil ratio (as is recommended by the Ottosson brand). In this case, the Viking brand is a very oily formulation so does not require a "primer" coat to nourish the dry substrate before applying undiluted coats of paint. You can of course "prime" but it is also possible to over oil the substrate too quickly. Too much oil, without the time needed for it to soak in more deeply, means your coats of Linseed Oil Paint have no where to go and you create some inefficiencies in your process. This is just a difference between brands, formulations, and technique that the individual craftsman can decide what works the best for them. Hope this is helpful. Let us know what additional questions come up.
@@Earthandflaxstudio I was reading some paint manufactures instructions online from the early 1900's and they had very specific linseed oil, pigment and solvent ratio instructions depending on the coat and the wood condition. Viking and Allback should address this issue. I know I should have some pigment & maybe solvent in my primer coat to get pigment in the wood pores but don't know the ratios. Saying it's up to the craftsman is not adequate. Linseed oil paint manufactures should provide more detailed instructions. If manufactures could do it in the early 1900's, they can do it now.
@@richardmckrell4899 If you use a purified/degummed linseed oil with a small molecular structure, that can soak deeply into a wood substrate efficiently like the Viking Purified Linseed Oil, no solvent is required. It is a traditional technique to use a good quality gum turpentine but it is worthwhile to avoid exposure whenever possible. As I mentioned, the Viking brand does not require an oil primer with or without a solvent as it is such a oil-rich formulation. This is the recommendation from the manufacturer. Apply 2-3 thin, even coats of paint onto a clean, dry exterior surface. Hope this is helpful. Let us know what additional questions come up.
I love how much attention to detail and decoration there was on these old houses. Every part had interest and drew the eye. Modern cookie cutter houses are cheap and boring as well. Glad I bought an 80 year old house with lots of character to restore!
Agreed! The materials and attention to detail found in old homes is basically irreplaceable. We cannot afford to build like this anymore and few have the skill. Enjoy your old home and the restoration process.
Please do more videos like these, if possible. I am interested in the viking paints but need a visual to better imagine the end result.
Wow ! Nice production video
Thanks so much!
stunning!
Thanks!
nice video!
Where do we see you using the lamp though
Doing some more infrared tool videos is definitely on the to-do-list. This was just a basic project site walk around but stay tuned for more on infrared paint removal.
You don't treat the bare wood with a coat of linseed oil before you paint? That dry wood must immediately suck the linseed oil out of the paint.
It really depends on the paint brand if we recommend a "primer" coat of the Purified Linseed Oil or a 30% paint to 70% Purified Linseed Oil ratio (as is recommended by the Ottosson brand). In this case, the Viking brand is a very oily formulation so does not require a "primer" coat to nourish the dry substrate before applying undiluted coats of paint. You can of course "prime" but it is also possible to over oil the substrate too quickly. Too much oil, without the time needed for it to soak in more deeply, means your coats of Linseed Oil Paint have no where to go and you create some inefficiencies in your process. This is just a difference between brands, formulations, and technique that the individual craftsman can decide what works the best for them. Hope this is helpful. Let us know what additional questions come up.
@@Earthandflaxstudio I was reading some paint manufactures instructions online from the early 1900's and they had very specific linseed oil, pigment and solvent ratio instructions depending on the coat and the wood condition. Viking and Allback should address this issue. I know I should have some pigment & maybe solvent in my primer coat to get pigment in the wood pores but don't know the ratios. Saying it's up to the craftsman is not adequate. Linseed oil paint manufactures should provide more detailed instructions. If manufactures could do it in the early 1900's, they can do it now.
@@richardmckrell4899 If you use a purified/degummed linseed oil with a small molecular structure, that can soak deeply into a wood substrate efficiently like the Viking Purified Linseed Oil, no solvent is required. It is a traditional technique to use a good quality gum turpentine but it is worthwhile to avoid exposure whenever possible. As I mentioned, the Viking brand does not require an oil primer with or without a solvent as it is such a oil-rich formulation. This is the recommendation from the manufacturer. Apply 2-3 thin, even coats of paint onto a clean, dry exterior surface. Hope this is helpful. Let us know what additional questions come up.