Thank you. 86 4X4. 410k on this baby. 3 transmissions, 5 speed and 1- 2.9 motor due to Hyd lock..4x4 in river, intake baffle missing when I first got it Had this since 1999. Now doing the 10 minute run then severe miss.
2023 working on an 89 2.9 I discovered that the wires leading into the plug on the control module ( plugs into the back of the distributor) we're getting bad, it would run good for awhile then act like It had bad fuel, I discovered this by accident when I touched the wiring harness leading to the distributor and it wouldn't start one morning, I pushed on the wires leading into the plug and she fired right up, runs smooth .
What’s up guys I have the same 88 ranger with the 2.9 v6 and I had a similar idling issue. Rough idle after warming up. I changed my MAP sensor, and it leveled out. Buuuuut then I changed my distributor and rotor so now my timing is off lol but once that’s adjusted should be good. That MAP sensor helps fix that idle issue
I got an 89 XLT rear Wheel drive V6 2.9 L and I rebuilt the clutch put it back in and I’m having issues first of all. I did the dumbest thing ever and I JB welded my exhaust flanges all four of them off the manifold before the two catalytic converters and another after I’m getting ready to go pay the price for that I have gasket material. I’ll be cutting my own, I know it’s other than that plugged in unplugged because it was kind of halfway plugged in and that seemed to fix it for a while, but I think I’ve disconnected it and connected so many things and I’ve made sure my grounds are good. I don’t know if the computers are acting up orI’m doing today And the thermostat I’ve put in a new solenoid oil filter. The plug wire distributor seem all right. I seen several guys mention some kind of harness behind the distributor. That’s not easy to see. I’m going to take a peek at that now does replacing the sensor and I suggest that you do all three that’s an old truck do a map sensor a TPS sensor and replace that harness the distributor at let me know what you guys find out
Can you do me a favor? I just bought my 88 a couple days ago I know there’s vacuum lines off/missing. Once being closer to you right on top by the air control valve. That one’s missing. And the one under it. I have one missing off the air box. Could you do a video showing where the vacuum lines go? I also have the same problem as you do. Just want to settle my vacuum lines first. Thank you
The Ranger station has KILLER TFI module ignnition troubleshooting chart! I found my problem w/i 30 minutes! ( No 12v at Pin 5 ( coil voltage ) at TFI connector i had a BROKE wire from secondary coil... ALSO check that 20 amp fusible link under drivers side connectors BIG blue wire then link/// rit b4 it hots the bundle n crosses over thru intake. Thats the HEATER circuit for oxygen sensor ( thx scanner danner)
had same problems with my 86. replaced fuel pump etc. still would stall what I found out was it is ignition control module on the side of the distributor they get old and the electronics in it break causing stalling issues etc. this also happens on more modern fords my brother had same issue. problem is everyone thinks its fuel or timing because it acts like it but its the ignition control module on the side of the distributor it gets hot then acts up then you shut it down so the engine cools down then starts up but will start sputtering and will stall . hope this helps anyone with this issue
Jody Eastey so I have an 89 ranger with the 2.3 motor and it will run fine as long as I’m in the throttle but as soon as it goes down to idle it will shut off on me. I’m getting no check engine light and I’ve replaced the MAP sensor the Throttle position sensor the fuel filter and also the thermostat and am still having the same problem with it shutting off.
The negative battery cable has 2 smaller gauge wires coming off of it! One is your body ground and the other goes into the wiring harness and is the ground wire for your computer....if that ground has a poor connection or break anywhere your truck will do some weird things
Could you be more specific I'm having issues where it will idle then idle surge sometimes and it also hesitates and sometimes backfires when I give it throttle
So the hose that goes into the intake manifold on the top right side. The black hose on the top, where does it go? I’m trying to figure it out for my truck cause the previous owner messed up the vacuum line.
I’ve got a video going live here probably tomorrow on this, I’ve had a few others ask where all the hoses go. I think the one you are asking about is one that goes to the transmission.
Check and see if that canister above your brake master cylinder is a vacuum canister, easiest and cheapest solution would be to check that out, it's always wise to check all the cheap easy things before you do what everyone else says and ship a computer (I don't think your truck has) over seas to be reset
It does have a computer and I do have a spare one I got a few years ago, haven't tried that yet as it is rare for that go bad. There is no vacuum canister above the brake drum, at least on my truck there is a windshield wiper motor there. Only "vacuum canister" I know about is one for the fuel tank.
Hm I didn't think it would have a computer, not in the technical sense of the word, as standard with trucks ten years newer, and my advice check that vacuum canister out before doing expensive work
Have you checked fuel pressure by any chance? Another thing to check would be the ground straps between the engine and frame and engine and body. They like to corrode and break off which can cause running issues as well.
Yeah but broken mounts wouldn't cause running issues so much as rocking issues, my truck has 2 snapped mounts and idling the truck rocks like it has a 440 big block blown and bored when it only has a 318, that doesn't effect running of the engine
I apologize, all I seen was straps. I don't think that would cause choppy rough idle, if it was the ecm, and ground wires for the ecm wouldn't it actually prevent the motor from running completely
I just bought a 1987 bronco ii as my first car and it idles at 2000 rpms and after it warms up the rpms drop to 1000 and then shoots back up to like 1500 and it’s made the car die before when I’m driving. Any help?
Check out your Advance Idle System. It controls idle level when cold or hot. Your systems sounds like it is not working correctly when cold. Might even be a bad Engine Control Module. See what inputs go to the ECM and check them out. Might be a weak/bad sensor. The ECM takes all inputs and outputs the idle contgroller. Bad input, bad output...
I'm thinking bad input/bad output as well, but what sensor? I've replaced both the coolant sensor and air charge sensor, and the idle air control valve. Could be the ECM, I do have a second ECM I can try.
+RDAllen the wire that goes to the idle air control valve comes from the trucks computer system. I replaced my idle air control valve in my '90 and cleaned out everything inside the old. Cleaning out the idle air control and replacing it didn't help me. Mechanics say I'll have to send in my computer for a reset. It's all a computer problem with me at least.
Thank you. 86 4X4. 410k on this baby. 3 transmissions, 5 speed and 1- 2.9 motor due to Hyd lock..4x4 in river, intake baffle missing when I first got it
Had this since 1999. Now doing the 10 minute run then severe miss.
410K? Wow that is impressive!
2023 working on an 89 2.9 I discovered that the wires leading into the plug on the control module ( plugs into the back of the distributor) we're getting bad, it would run good for awhile then act like It had bad fuel, I discovered this by accident when I touched the wiring harness leading to the distributor and it wouldn't start one morning, I pushed on the wires leading into the plug and she fired right up, runs smooth .
Boy watch you work on that truck quite a bit and I have to say I don't mind watching you down here from Florida where it's nice and warm no snow
What’s up guys I have the same 88 ranger with the 2.9 v6 and I had a similar idling issue. Rough idle after warming up. I changed my MAP sensor, and it leveled out. Buuuuut then I changed my distributor and rotor so now my timing is off lol but once that’s adjusted should be good. That MAP sensor helps fix that idle issue
I had to get a timing light, but yes once I did that it ran great!
Ya that’s where I’m at myself. Working on the timing right now.
I got an 89 XLT rear Wheel drive V6 2.9 L and I rebuilt the clutch put it back in and I’m having issues first of all. I did the dumbest thing ever and I JB welded my exhaust flanges all four of them off the manifold before the two catalytic converters and another after I’m getting ready to go pay the price for that I have gasket material. I’ll be cutting my own, I know it’s other than that plugged in unplugged because it was kind of halfway plugged in and that seemed to fix it for a while, but I think I’ve disconnected it and connected so many things and I’ve made sure my grounds are good. I don’t know if the computers are acting up orI’m doing today And the thermostat I’ve put in a new solenoid oil filter. The plug wire distributor seem all right. I seen several guys mention some kind of harness behind the distributor. That’s not easy to see. I’m going to take a peek at that now does replacing the sensor and I suggest that you do all three that’s an old truck do a map sensor a TPS sensor and replace that harness the distributor at let me know what you guys find out
On my 1990 Bronco II 2.9L, my Idle problem was the MAP sensor which is mounted in the firewall, just follow the vacuum line from the manifold.
Yep, that was the problem here as well!
Can you do me a favor? I just bought my 88 a couple days ago I know there’s vacuum lines off/missing. Once being closer to you right on top by the air control valve. That one’s missing. And the one under it. I have one missing off the air box. Could you do a video showing where the vacuum lines go? I also have the same problem as you do. Just want to settle my vacuum lines first. Thank you
The Ranger station has KILLER TFI module ignnition troubleshooting chart! I found my problem w/i 30 minutes! ( No 12v at Pin 5 ( coil voltage ) at TFI connector i had a BROKE wire from secondary coil... ALSO check that 20 amp fusible link under drivers side connectors BIG blue wire then link/// rit b4 it hots the bundle n crosses over thru intake. Thats the HEATER circuit for oxygen sensor ( thx scanner danner)
had same problems with my 86. replaced fuel pump etc. still would stall what I found out was it is ignition control module on the side of the distributor they get old and the electronics in it break causing stalling issues etc. this also happens on more modern fords my brother had same issue. problem is everyone thinks its fuel or timing because it acts like it but its the ignition control module on the side of the distributor it gets hot then acts up then you shut it down so the engine cools down then starts up but will start sputtering and will stall . hope this helps anyone with this issue
Good point, in my case it was the manifold pressure sensor.
Jody Eastey so I have an 89 ranger with the 2.3 motor and it will run fine as long as I’m in the throttle but as soon as it goes down to idle it will shut off on me. I’m getting no check engine light and I’ve replaced the MAP sensor the Throttle position sensor the fuel filter and also the thermostat and am still having the same problem with it shutting off.
The negative battery cable has 2 smaller gauge wires coming off of it! One is your body ground and the other goes into the wiring harness and is the ground wire for your computer....if that ground has a poor connection or break anywhere your truck will do some weird things
Good to know!
Could you be more specific I'm having issues where it will idle then idle surge sometimes and it also hesitates and sometimes backfires when I give it throttle
Did you figure out the problem @@jacksoncolburn5525
So the hose that goes into the intake manifold on the top right side. The black hose on the top, where does it go? I’m trying to figure it out for my truck cause the previous owner messed up the vacuum line.
I’ve got a video going live here probably tomorrow on this, I’ve had a few others ask where all the hoses go. I think the one you are asking about is one that goes to the transmission.
Brake booster
if you're getting air in the intake spray starting fluid around the seam and if it does die you have a leak
Shouldn't be getting any leak now with new gaskets and seals, plus I from the looks of the old gaskets, I don't think it was leaking before.
Check and see if that canister above your brake master cylinder is a vacuum canister, easiest and cheapest solution would be to check that out, it's always wise to check all the cheap easy things before you do what everyone else says and ship a computer (I don't think your truck has) over seas to be reset
It does have a computer and I do have a spare one I got a few years ago, haven't tried that yet as it is rare for that go bad. There is no vacuum canister above the brake drum, at least on my truck there is a windshield wiper motor there. Only "vacuum canister" I know about is one for the fuel tank.
Hm I didn't think it would have a computer, not in the technical sense of the word, as standard with trucks ten years newer, and my advice check that vacuum canister out before doing expensive work
ya it has a computer its fuel injected dont b stupid are u kidding me bud come on
The map sensor which is vacumn lined to the IAC is mo like'ly the problem a guy fixed his w/that $20 at ebay
Have you checked fuel pressure by any chance? Another thing to check would be the ground straps between the engine and frame and engine and body. They like to corrode and break off which can cause running issues as well.
Yeah but broken mounts wouldn't cause running issues so much as rocking issues, my truck has 2 snapped mounts and idling the truck rocks like it has a 440 big block blown and bored when it only has a 318, that doesn't effect running of the engine
I said ground straps, not mounts. If they are bad they can cause a poor circuit connectivity between the ECM and the engine.
I apologize, all I seen was straps. I don't think that would cause choppy rough idle, if it was the ecm, and ground wires for the ecm wouldn't it actually prevent the motor from running completely
I'll have to check that, I did find one broken strap I need to replace yet, but it is not one from the engine, part of the firewall.
Map censor or idle control valve,one of the 2 easy fix.map sensor is on firewall.
It was the map sensor!
Is it manual or automatic trans?
Automatic
Did u ever find the problem? My bronco is idling rough and I'm seeing what others have figured out.
For me it was the pressure sensor that is on the back firewall. Manifold Pressure sensor I think it was.
where can i get the ford shop manual for the truck?
I got it on eBay
I just bought a 1987 bronco ii as my first car and it idles at 2000 rpms and after it warms up the rpms drop to 1000 and then shoots back up to like 1500 and it’s made the car die before when I’m driving. Any help?
Vacuum leaks? Throttle body sensor? Make sure the throttle isn’t sticking either I have had that.
@@radozeman what do you uze your bronco 2 for?
i have the same exact ranger it’s having the same problem it starts right up then come to a stop then it will just idle down and shut off.
Check the obvious? Sucking air maybe?
I changed the map sensor and mine stayed running. Still surges, but stays running !! YEA !!
If its still surging check for vacuum leaks!
Shot of carb cleaner into my idler valve and my erratic idle was gone
MAP sensor is the problem
Say FOLKS again please
even throttle possition sensor
I did change the TPS, didn't change anything.
Check out your Advance Idle System. It controls idle level when cold or hot. Your systems sounds like it is not working correctly when cold. Might even be a bad Engine Control Module. See what inputs go to the ECM and check them out. Might be a weak/bad sensor. The ECM takes all inputs and outputs the idle contgroller. Bad input, bad output...
I'm thinking bad input/bad output as well, but what sensor? I've replaced both the coolant sensor and air charge sensor, and the idle air control valve. Could be the ECM, I do have a second ECM I can try.
Oh and the throttle body sensor.
+RDAllen the wire that goes to the idle air control valve comes from the trucks computer system. I replaced my idle air control valve in my '90 and cleaned out everything inside the old. Cleaning out the idle air control and replacing it didn't help me. Mechanics say I'll have to send in my computer for a reset. It's all a computer problem with me at least.
I have a spare computer maybe I'll have give that try, I want to get the timing right before I try anything else.
Always remember to disconnect battery after replacing sensors or anything computer related ,or computer may ignore the replaced component .
Your iac.is not bad.add a switch to your iac.and put it in side.
Thank you 👍.
Put a 3.0L V6 in it's place.
Their is air in your engine
Um ok??
btdc (below top dead center)
before not below
While I was driving my 89 Ranger Running around 45 mph it made a Air Blow sound I have no gears
,
Air blow? Torque converter? There is also a vacuum line that goes to the transmission, but I don’t think that would do it.