Good video. I prefer to use an ohm meter (multimeter that goes down to 1 Ohm) to test body cords. This is mostly so I can test the entire length of the wires for breaks. My zen for personal body cords is to have Leon Paul Epee cords (I think it is the best design available) and I have high hopes for the Over Molded Lean Paul Foil/Saber cords (the 2 prong end is completely sealed). In my opinion, the German design is the worse design (too many areas for those stress breaks) but if a fencer wants one, spend the extra money for an actual German cord. Thanks for the videos (I should have added, I use analog multimeters so I can physically zero the ohms)
@@samsignorelli That is a definite concern and I haven't had mine for long, though a club member has had one for awhile without problems. I do think that they don't have the real stress point problems that the hard plastic design has. Time will tell I suppose.
thanks for the info. re the bayonet being legal in the US... makes sense now as people still selling bayonet stuff on ebay in the US... i always have preferred bayonet and was pretty upset taht we now have to use 2 pin - in the late 80's my club (in australia) looked Atthew 2 options (bayo or 2 pin) and decided to use all bayonet in the club.. we never had any major problems with bayonet - you don't have to lick the pins to make a good connection (one of the reasons we did not like 2 pin) ....
At 3:10 you call the German one a Chinese copy. But at least that Chinese copy has the good pin design. The really cheap ones have the banana peel type design, with the peals getting worn, soft and not making good contact. For the high school team I do armory for, I am constantly taking a tip screwdriver and using it to push out the banana peels so they make good contact with the socket. I really hate that design, and I won't buy a cord that uses it anymore. It's worth the few extra bucks to get the design you are showing in your hand at 3:10. May I ask where you got the shrink wrap made in tubes like that? I enjoyed your vid.
Not so sure I agree on the pin opinion. The birdcage ones are damn near impossible to spread out after they get smashed. The banana ones get smashed as well, but at least THOSE can be spread out to maintain contact. YMMV Most of the armorers I've worked with for 2 decades prefer the bananas for JUST that reason.
@@samsignorelli , OK, point taken. Is that what they are called? Birdcage? But I'm had some of those birdcage pins since 1995 and they still work just fine, never had to spread them out. If they fail on me and I can't spread them out, I'll just toss them and say I got a really good deal out of them. Thanks.
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Good video. I prefer to use an ohm meter (multimeter that goes down to 1 Ohm) to test body cords. This is mostly so I can test the entire length of the wires for breaks.
My zen for personal body cords is to have Leon Paul Epee cords (I think it is the best design available) and I have high hopes for the Over Molded Lean Paul Foil/Saber cords (the 2 prong end is completely sealed). In my opinion, the German design is the worse design (too many areas for those stress breaks) but if a fencer wants one, spend the extra money for an actual German cord.
Thanks for the videos
(I should have added, I use analog multimeters so I can physically zero the ohms)
The issue I have with the over-molded ones is they can't be repaired. If the wire breaks, you have to get a new one. A very poor deign, imo.
@@samsignorelli That is a definite concern and I haven't had mine for long, though a club member has had one for awhile without problems. I do think that they don't have the real stress point problems that the hard plastic design has. Time will tell I suppose.
thanks for the info. re the bayonet being legal in the US... makes sense now as people still selling bayonet stuff on ebay in the US...
i always have preferred bayonet and was pretty upset taht we now have to use 2 pin - in the late 80's my club (in australia) looked Atthew 2 options (bayo or 2 pin) and decided to use all bayonet in the club.. we never had any major problems with bayonet - you don't have to lick the pins to make a good connection (one of the reasons we did not like 2 pin) ....
At 3:10 you call the German one a Chinese copy. But at least that Chinese copy has the good pin design. The really cheap ones have the banana peel type design, with the peals getting worn, soft and not making good contact. For the high school team I do armory for, I am constantly taking a tip screwdriver and using it to push out the banana peels so they make good contact with the socket. I really hate that design, and I won't buy a cord that uses it anymore. It's worth the few extra bucks to get the design you are showing in your hand at 3:10.
May I ask where you got the shrink wrap made in tubes like that?
I enjoyed your vid.
Not so sure I agree on the pin opinion. The birdcage ones are damn near impossible to spread out after they get smashed. The banana ones get smashed as well, but at least THOSE can be spread out to maintain contact. YMMV
Most of the armorers I've worked with for 2 decades prefer the bananas for JUST that reason.
@@samsignorelli , OK, point taken. Is that what they are called? Birdcage? But I'm had some of those birdcage pins since 1995 and they still work just fine, never had to spread them out. If they fail on me and I can't spread them out, I'll just toss them and say I got a really good deal out of them. Thanks.