How is this hands down the best review for this platform on YT yet the only way I found this was because I searched for a Serpent srx8 video. Rhanks RUclips
~Can i add that i have watched this video maybe 5 times now, and it so well presented i dont understand why you was worried to make it and out it out, make more bro!
Nice review, nice channel content too. That's a great platform that has been around for over a decade and it's quite bullet proof, particularly the driveline. Good tips, particularly the use of aluminum tape around the exhaust hole on the body which is sure to deform; It's something we've done to buggy bodies for decades as they sit right on top of the pipe. Grabbing a spare body now is the way to go because once they are gone, you'll pay very dearly for one if you're desperate for it.
regarding the throttle return option, you can put a spring from the outside of the throttle servo 'arm', hook it there, and hook the other end of the spring unto the single hex or phillips screw holding the break lever in place. (you could also replace this screw with a slightly longer one, its not going to harm anything its just to make a little bit of room to hook the spring. this way it doesn't run over the airfilter cone(the rubber one) and doesnt destroy it. (just a small little tip you may or may not like) -i like it lol and what i wanted to add to this is: Rubber bands like the blue one you use as a return band, can melt and then snap because heat is being transferred from the engine block in any direction. The rubber air filter cone isn't prone to melting from that distance because its made from silicone and a different (i think heat or melt resisting rubber) in any case you get my point.
The bands that I'm using are silicone but excess heat from a poorly tuned engine could create enough heat to dry out the rubber (although I've never had this happen). Thanks for the tips!
Very informative review, the best ive seen yet. Can't wait to get mine. I wana run road wheels so what's the best ones to get and where from mate? 17mm hex? UK 🇬🇧
Love the video! I went and got myself one 😂 ..only problem I'm having is it trys to run off on its own at full throttle, like it's got a mind of its own today it smashed in to a wall and snapped the front bumper and bent a shock shaft 😔 evan tried to save it by turning the transmitter off to hoofully activate the fail safe but nope flew off full throttle in to a wall.
Hi I was just watching your channel I just purchased the same car can you tell me where I can purchase different rally bodies and tires with rims I'm located in Baltimore md Thanks I love the car
Thanks for the video. I would like to know more about the diff removal, its looks like complex, regarding the screws, the positions... Not easy as DRX to remove the diffs... And I do a LOT, for change the oil viscosity. The rear toe in is adjustable? Fuel tank looks like to tiny from here (video) Thanks again.
The fuel tank is small physically but holds plenty of fuel given the economy of the g3.0 engine. The rear toe is not adjustable. The diffs are easy to remove but you do have to contend with the hinge pin clips for both front and rear during removal. I have good baseline setups for this car if you’re interested. I spent a lot of time in this area of chassis tuning. I dont race but I also don’t drive cars that are loose or handle poorly. The car is rear biased from the factory and the diffs are grease filled by the oem. This works somewhat on loose gravel and dirt but hurts transient performance between surfaces (like going from tarmac to gravel to dirt to clay)…
@@ayougo Nice mate, thanks for the reply. Witch weight do you use at diffs and shocks? I dont race either... but I really enjoy tune it, as a hobby. Thank you again!
@@GOLTURBO555 I would leave the shock package alone as it’s close to perfect from HPI. I would start with 0 to 1 deg toe out in the front. -1 deg camber on all four. 10k front, 100k center ,3k rear for dirt. 60k front, 100k center and 7k rear for tarmac.
I don’t have any experience with Integy components on this platform. If speed is what you want, use a 17t clutch bell from hpi. You will retain the clearance you need between the brake disc and the flywheel while gaining speed. The pipe and header will also be less stressed with the engine mount assembly moving away from the spur vs moving closer to the spur. I run a 16t bell for dirt. 17t for asphalt (I generally drive in very low cut, rooted park like conditions, although when I first got the car, I did a lot of testing on bad asphalt and construction lots).
They stem from a B6.2 which has been discontinued. The shock kit is no longer available from AE directly. You can purchase the individual components. You will need 4x b6.2 rear shock bodies, 4x 27.5 shafts, eyelet kit, cap kit and collars along with piston kit to produce all four. This does not include the JC concept aftermarket bling but that can be had still.
what is the most basic shock option ican purchase?? i dont wantr to spend 200 bucks on shocks. Can i use just the shocks you recommended without the extras??
You can use factory b6.1,2 shocks but honestly, you don’t need them unless you really want to change the rates and dampening for a specific road surface. The stock rates and dampening are really good, almost perfect. The composite used in the oem shock is high quality and not prone to air intrusion or leaking.
It’s storming good in my neck of the woods. When the roads are dry, I’ll put together a good video but have a look at my shorts. There a few featuring this car.
@@Pasif_Media Its worth what you put into it like most things. The reward is hours and hours of bliss. Check out hybrid32494 channel. He's got alot of good video's you can watch, sharing experiences with nitro. Check him out...see if its something you want to get involved with. Its not plug and play like electric but that's what makes it rewarding. The smell, the taste, the sounds, the community....its worth it mate.
Static sag is bike terminology. I love riding! The cars droop is the delta between its ride height and it’s max ride height. The numbers given were max ride height and resting height. Front droop is 10mm and rear is about 15mm. Cars sitting at 19-20mm. My apologies for any mis-spoken terminology…nerves sir.
@@ayougo ahh got ya.. yeah I ride and was having a hard time understanding because I thought you said you were going to raise a suspension up and let the car sit down and measure it which for a motorcycle like my R1 would be a static sag measuremeant.. that's where I was confused. Thanks for explaining it to me I appreciate it. I was into RC cars back in the mid late '90s when I was a lot younger and my first nitro powered truck was a team associated RC10 GT lol and over the years I stepped it up to HPI Savage 21 and the KIT version I might add because back in the day we had to build everything and in my opinion that's the way it should still be because then you learn your car in and out but that's a whole another conversation. I've been looking up some used RC cars and Facebook marketplace here in Austin Texas and it blows me away people are selling revos 3.3's for more than they cost brand new and they're justification is they spent $200 in parts and accessories lmfao. I would absolutely love one of these HPI WR8 nitros but I would really want it to have a two-speed transmission and I'm kind of looked around and haven't found anybody that makes one. I would also take a Revo or a Savage if I could find one for the right price and not overpriced. And if all else fails I think what I'm going to do is going to start saving up and just buy a MCD Xr5 pro and just get it And by all the things I need one at a time until it's ready to go because that's probably my favorite 5th scale car out there and I would love to have a fifth scale. If anyone knows any websites I could go to where people go just to sell like you know used RC cars and stuff please let me know
How is this hands down the best review for this platform on YT yet the only way I found this was because I searched for a Serpent srx8 video. Rhanks RUclips
Outstanding review 🙌 please share comprehensive hop-up sheet / set-up sheet 🏎💨
~Can i add that i have watched this video maybe 5 times now, and it so well presented i dont understand why you was worried to make it and out it out, make more bro!
I appreciate the feedback.
ruclips.net/video/AvgoPZdes3k/видео.html : ) Thanks man@@ayougo
What's up brother Bevins racing from hybrids channel
Glad I was able to come across your channel
Nice review, nice channel content too. That's a great platform that has been around for over a decade and it's quite bullet proof, particularly the driveline. Good tips, particularly the use of aluminum tape around the exhaust hole on the body which is sure to deform; It's something we've done to buggy bodies for decades as they sit right on top of the pipe. Grabbing a spare body now is the way to go because once they are gone, you'll pay very dearly for one if you're desperate for it.
Excellent review 👍
I love mine!
I wish i could still get hold of a brand new Kyosho DRX Subaru. Amazing nitro rally car.
Those are good rigs!
regarding the throttle return option, you can put a spring from the outside of the throttle servo 'arm', hook it there, and hook the other end of the spring unto the single hex or phillips screw holding the break lever in place. (you could also replace this screw with a slightly longer one, its not going to harm anything its just to make a little bit of room to hook the spring.
this way it doesn't run over the airfilter cone(the rubber one) and doesnt destroy it. (just a small little tip you may or may not like) -i like it lol
and what i wanted to add to this is: Rubber bands like the blue one you use as a return band, can melt and then snap because heat is being transferred from the engine block in any direction.
The rubber air filter cone isn't prone to melting from that distance because its made from silicone and a different (i think heat or melt resisting rubber) in any case you get my point.
The bands that I'm using are silicone but excess heat from a poorly tuned engine could create enough heat to dry out the rubber (although I've never had this happen). Thanks for the tips!
Very informative review, the best ive seen yet. Can't wait to get mine. I wana run road wheels so what's the best ones to get and where from mate? 17mm hex? UK 🇬🇧
HPI 108076 is the part number for the tarmac tires. www.modelsport.co.uk/search/?search=wr8
Love the video! I went and got myself one 😂 ..only problem I'm having is it trys to run off on its own at full throttle, like it's got a mind of its own today it smashed in to a wall and snapped the front bumper and bent a shock shaft 😔 evan tried to save it by turning the transmitter off to hoofully activate the fail safe but nope flew off full throttle in to a wall.
Hi I was just watching your channel I just purchased the same car can you tell me where I can purchase different rally bodies and tires with rims I'm located in Baltimore md
Thanks I love the car
Thanks for the video. I would like to know more about the diff removal, its looks like complex, regarding the screws, the positions... Not easy as DRX to remove the diffs... And I do a LOT, for change the oil viscosity. The rear toe in is adjustable? Fuel tank looks like to tiny from here (video) Thanks again.
The fuel tank is small physically but holds plenty of fuel given the economy of the g3.0 engine. The rear toe is not adjustable. The diffs are easy to remove but you do have to contend with the hinge pin clips for both front and rear during removal. I have good baseline setups for this car if you’re interested. I spent a lot of time in this area of chassis tuning. I dont race but I also don’t drive cars that are loose or handle poorly. The car is rear biased from the factory and the diffs are grease filled by the oem. This works somewhat on loose gravel and dirt but hurts transient performance between surfaces (like going from tarmac to gravel to dirt to clay)…
@@ayougo Nice mate, thanks for the reply. Witch weight do you use at diffs and shocks? I dont race either... but I really enjoy tune it, as a hobby. Thank you again!
@@GOLTURBO555 I would leave the shock package alone as it’s close to perfect from HPI. I would start with 0 to 1 deg toe out in the front. -1 deg camber on all four. 10k front, 100k center ,3k rear for dirt. 60k front, 100k center and 7k rear for tarmac.
Great vid. Are the associated shock bodies 27.5mm or 31mm?
27.5
would you recommend the integy metal spur? thinking to go down to 42t from 46t stock.
I don’t have any experience with Integy components on this platform. If speed is what you want, use a 17t clutch bell from hpi. You will retain the clearance you need between the brake disc and the flywheel while gaining speed. The pipe and header will also be less stressed with the engine mount assembly moving away from the spur vs moving closer to the spur. I run a 16t bell for dirt. 17t for asphalt (I generally drive in very low cut, rooted park like conditions, although when I first got the car, I did a lot of testing on bad asphalt and construction lots).
Do you have a link to the shocks? Can't find them anywhere. Thanks!
They stem from a B6.2 which has been discontinued. The shock kit is no longer available from AE directly. You can purchase the individual components. You will need 4x b6.2 rear shock bodies, 4x 27.5 shafts, eyelet kit, cap kit and collars along with piston kit to produce all four. This does not include the JC concept aftermarket bling but that can be had still.
Does anyone know if they make a 2 speed trans for this car? I want to get one but I kind of want it to have a two-speed transmission
It doesn’t exist for this platform
what is the most basic shock option ican purchase?? i dont wantr to spend 200 bucks on shocks. Can i use just the shocks you recommended without the extras??
You can use factory b6.1,2 shocks but honestly, you don’t need them unless you really want to change the rates and dampening for a specific road surface. The stock rates and dampening are really good, almost perfect. The composite used in the oem shock is high quality and not prone to air intrusion or leaking.
Does anyone know how to make this car a 2 speed nitro?
can you send me a list of sparts you upgraded? any clutch bell upgrade?
WR8 SPEED TOWER, for HPI WR8 Exotek
Front - #1561, $19.95
Rear - #1562, $19.95
HPI#108021 Aluminum Rear Hub Carrier Set
HPI#108077 Aluminum C Hub Set (Hard)
HPI#108078 Aluminum Knuckle Set (Hard)
HPI#109924 HD Center Diff Shaft 5x31mm
HPI#109925 HD Gear Shaft 5x29
HPI#109926 HD Diff Shaft 5x23.5 (2X)
HPI#109920 HD Center Diff Shaft 5x26.5
HPI#108020 Aluminum Locking Hex Wheel Hub
HPI#107544 Universal Drive Shaft (2x)
HPI#109013 Center BulkHead Brace (Woven)
HPI#108022 Aluminum Front Upper Brace
HPI#108023 Aluminum Front Brace (Hard)
HPI#108024 Aluminum Rear Brace (Hard)
Titanium Hardware (Complete underside screws except the engine mount bolts)
Aluminum Fender washers for all countersunk screws (Amazon www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0B31JHG3T/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1)
Steering Servo: PowerHobby 345LP
Throttle/Brake: PowerHobby LP250
Brake Linkage: Hobao 87092 + Hyper VT throttle/Brake Gooseneck Arm (3mm holes)
Shocks: Team associated B6.2 Rear shocks (4X)
JConcepts JCO2490-2 Black fin Shock caps (2x)
JConcepts JCO2491-2 Black Shock Collars (2x)
JConcepts 2411T Titanium F&R Shock Standoffs (2x)
JConcepts JCO2492-2 Fin Aluminum VCS Shock Bottom caps (2x)
Team Associated Factory Team 12mm V2 Shock Piston (4) (3x1.4mm)
Team Associated 12mm Front Shock Spring (Gray/3.45lbs) (2x)
Yeah Racing 64 Titanium Turnbuckle 3x34mm 2pcs RC Cars Drift Touring #TBTI-0334 (2x) Use with OEM HPI ball ends and standoffs...
Xpert B3210 Electronic Switch
OEM Clutch Bell and Clutch (Works really well as is) although will try a Reds 34mm ltw clutch package on the OS T1204
@@ayougo what weight shock oil
@@ayougo thanks!!!
@@ramos.nitrorc 60wt all four sir
UK model he refers to would most likely be wheelspin models
Can you post a running video of it 🙏🙏
Yes sir
It’s storming good in my neck of the woods. When the roads are dry, I’ll put together a good video but have a look at my shorts. There a few featuring this car.
@@ayougoMan it sounds good. I'm thinking about getting into nitro but I heard its alot of work
@@Pasif_Media Its worth what you put into it like most things. The reward is hours and hours of bliss. Check out hybrid32494 channel. He's got alot of good video's you can watch, sharing experiences with nitro. Check him out...see if its something you want to get involved with. Its not plug and play like electric but that's what makes it rewarding. The smell, the taste, the sounds, the community....its worth it mate.
So you were calling it droop.. did you mean static sag?
Static sag is bike terminology. I love riding! The cars droop is the delta between its ride height and it’s max ride height. The numbers given were max ride height and resting height. Front droop is 10mm and rear is about 15mm. Cars sitting at 19-20mm. My apologies for any mis-spoken terminology…nerves sir.
@@ayougo ahh got ya.. yeah I ride and was having a hard time understanding because I thought you said you were going to raise a suspension up and let the car sit down and measure it which for a motorcycle like my R1 would be a static sag measuremeant.. that's where I was confused. Thanks for explaining it to me I appreciate it. I was into RC cars back in the mid late '90s when I was a lot younger and my first nitro powered truck was a team associated RC10 GT lol and over the years I stepped it up to HPI Savage 21 and the KIT version I might add because back in the day we had to build everything and in my opinion that's the way it should still be because then you learn your car in and out but that's a whole another conversation. I've been looking up some used RC cars and Facebook marketplace here in Austin Texas and it blows me away people are selling revos 3.3's for more than they cost brand new and they're justification is they spent $200 in parts and accessories lmfao. I would absolutely love one of these HPI WR8 nitros but I would really want it to have a two-speed transmission and I'm kind of looked around and haven't found anybody that makes one. I would also take a Revo or a Savage if I could find one for the right price and not overpriced. And if all else fails I think what I'm going to do is going to start saving up and just buy a MCD Xr5 pro and just get it And by all the things I need one at a time until it's ready to go because that's probably my favorite 5th scale car out there and I would love to have a fifth scale. If anyone knows any websites I could go to where people go just to sell like you know used RC cars and stuff please let me know
It needs 2 speed.