Low buck porting tools for hi-buck pro results,
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- Опубликовано: 14 окт 2024
- In this, episode 76, DV discusses the minimum of tools and other equipment you will need to start porting heads in a professional manner. He also reveals a couple of simple porting moves that will allow you to do your own radius approach seats and how to get a consistent port finish that could well label you as a pro.
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The quickest 1/2 hr video I've ever watched. Thank you David Vizard!!!!
My high school shop teacher would have had a heart attack with your table saw technique!
Thank you for sharing! Great info!
Standing on the otherside I got showered with hot rubber!
@@DavidVizard I absolutely love your videos. I have learned more from you in the last 2 years than I have in the past 45 years reading every engine building article I could find. When I watched the 1st of your videos I found, I said this guy knows his stuff and set out to watch every video you had out. Thank you so much! I would absolutely love to go to your porting school in the future!
@@DavidVizard Resaw them om a bandsaw! It can be done just as clean using a tall fence. As someone who knows his way around a tablesaw I can tell you that those were some of the most nervous moments of my life watching those cuts!
So devoted to improved air flow he can improve a shop vac! Love it thanks for the tip DV
so much better and cleaner than original shopvac type filtering.
I want to know what bag numbers to play with.
oooohh yeahhh thanks alot of genius idea, something new idea for me. great results and smoothly surface... yeahh like a pro thanks boss 🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏 fans from Malaysia
Since someone else corrected the saw procedure, I get to mention that you'll not get an air compressor for three hundred dollars. Not unless you want to wait more time than working. You've had yours forever😆. That being said thank you for giving insight to what tools to use🤗. Now where there be an airflow bench building video?
Sorry, with all due respect to M. Vizard. ( #1)Do not cut the center out of your shop vac. It will suck the bag into it and ruin the bag. (#2) Make sure you use a fine dust high efficiency bag. Regular bags will let more fine dust through. They are not rated in microns for filter efficiency. (#3) Most importantly run a hepa or high efficiency cartridge filter such as Mcmaster-Carr no. 6679T21 in addition to the bag. It filters down to .3 microns and will catch anything that makes it through your bag filter. It's also a good safety in case you get a pin hole in the bag. (#4) Most shop-vacs have a turn down inside the case that protects the bag from incoming objects that would damage the filter. Don't buy a vac that doesn't have one. I have DV's books and his engine knowledge is impressive to say the least. I defer to him on engine knowledge for sure but I'm telling you the safest way to do this. I have 38 years experience in machine shops cutting materials such as carbon electrodes for edm machining, micarta for electrical applications, phenolic for misc. applications so I know something about this subject. Don't take chances with your lungs. A hepa filter is expensive but they last a long, long time when used in conjunction with a fine dust filter bag. Never clean a cartridge with an air gun. Take it outside and tap it lightly on the inside of a dumpster or trash can. Air guns destroy filters for shop vacs, cars, and motorcycles. My .02.
Mr. King sir, points duly noted but I am going to experiment here so your findings help point me in the right direction. Keep up the good advice. thanks - again!
I love how DV ported the shop-vac. LOL 😎
im addicted to the way new vacuum bags smell
OMG, David, that is the most dangerous way to use the worlds most dangerous saw. This is why its named that!
I needed to get down in a set of headers about 5 inches to get some big burrs out on the back side of the welds. Used a piece of 1/4 inch brake line, a piece of 1/4 inch shaft brazed the shaft in the brake line with one end hanging out for the air die grinder tool to clamp on and the other end back in the tube, JB welded my die grinder burr in the other end, just keep the speed down trust me on that!! Long burrs are expensive and seldom needed .The burr can easily removed with a little heat from a propane torch. YOUR idea of a bag inside of the shop vac is about 2 months late I was removing some blow in foam insulation from in between the studs in a house, plugged up the vac in 2 minutes what a pain and that stuff in the most N A S T Y C R A P on the planet bar none! Thanks for the idea, FRED.
That roloc disc tip was excellent, really efficient way to blend those transitions.
I agree, will have to try that out
Sure easier looking than the stone tool way, and more uniform blend too.
I'll be doing it this way.
That vacuum bag is going to be a real saver.
Thank you for the safety tip
Love the story of the 1st port job and tooling
I started with a bastard file on an intake then a $80 Makita drill for the bowls ! Some cheap stone that was good for 1 port only
And we were away
Couldn’t tell you if it made any improvements didn’t have a dyno didn’t have a flow bench !
All my mates laughed at me
Now that was 25 years ago ! And now all those mates call and see me for engine building tips etc
Been porting for 20+ years and I'll say, Once I got a ceiling mount motor and flex shaft it cut my time in half . never looked back.
Such a gentleman, Worrying about our health!
Thank David, nice to know someone is still thinking about the little guy.👍
David, your comment "make it like so" reminded me of another extremely talented teacher in Professor Julius Sumner Miller. His saying was "why is it so"? Both you and Prof. J Miller have a very unique method of teaching that flows information to the student in a way that is easily absorbed by your students. David, some of these little details give advice, such as cutting the discs, that are brilliant tid bits that will allow students to move way ahead in a short period of time. Thank you.
Andy, I noticed that while demonstrating port shaping the camera was often blocked from view. Bore cameras are plentiful, relatively cheap and have a variety of connections including "Type C". It would probably take an assistant to place the camera , in this case, from the chamber end which would allow the viewer to more easily view the operation. Some of these bore cameras could be placed in the port before starting the job and left as their cables are stiff. Just a thought. Absolutely wonderful series.
Good thing I didn't grow up close to your shop, I would have become a fixture & prob a pest trying to earn my keep! As is I'm an electronics engineer at HP, the first set of heads I ported Ken at AFR taught me...... bless him for taking the time to chat. (6 hrs) later & we stayed in touch, I was going to toss the 193 swirl port heads out & get something more traditional but Ken stopped me. From a stock TBI head that best mpg was 11mpg to a set of 202/160 valved heads that jumped to 15mpg. If I had only knew how to choose a computer cam to work with the stock prom vs going with a store grind wide lobe center on my sbc355. Love how practical you are & finding new ways to use common items like those wheel chocks.
Huge props DV! Most guys say oh I'll show you how to save some money and they show you a $2k piece of equipment and then they show you some $800 piece, well that's out of a lot of our price range as well. Those chalks are a great idea for something I've recently been pricing, thank you!!!
those chocks could be joined with steel rod or tubing between them for even more cradle type stability
@@modelnutty6503I thought I was spelling it wrong
Mr Vizard, watching your videos have been a blessing. I'm far from a professional, more of a beginner novice lol. But I do enjoy any opportunity to learn, especially from someone with your years of experience. Thank you sir.
Man I'm so excited right now I can't even stand myself lol. I've been an auto tech for 22 years but never got into the customization or performance side of it, however. I now own a 2000 jeep cherokee and I just ordered a 4.7l stroker engine and will be porting the intake and throttle body as well as adding an exhaust header with high flow exhaust and swapping to 12 hole 24lb injectors, an upgrade from the factory 2 hole 19lb ones. This is my first ever ride I've wanted to make better and I couldn't be happier so I'm thankful to find your videos good sir
This was great. Mill and lathe operations possible at home would be a great episode. Careful with that table saw Dave!
Wow....What a valuable video....Mr. Vizard you are the BEST!!!
These videos are the PERFECT compliment to your books. You're visually answering so many of the questions I had after reading your book on porting. Thank you!
Absolutely brilliant, I am completely in love with this series.
Thank you so much for all of this invaluable information. Can't wait for the next one.
Any info on budget low pressure flow testing or DIY crank balancing equipment would be greatly appreciated also.
Great tips that I’ve reviewed multiple times! Thanks David! 🙏😊
Awsome stuff the guru of die grinding is a mechanical engineer....I always thought that was boilermaker territory ... very skilled and thankyou
.
I am an amateur head porter. Been doing it for more than 50 years. Since I have found your channel, I have so much technical information. A lot more than I got from your porting book.I love the tips you gave in this video on how to
do the radius valve bowl easier. I started porting 289 heads before alum heads were available.
How to port a vacuum!!!!!! Love it.
Your a legend..
Thank you Mr Vizard. Im so appreciative of your skills and wisedom you are passing on to me. Keep the content coming, RIP Jacque. You are a role model for this 63yr old hot rodder,
Instead of using the more expensive barrel sanders, i made a arbor by using 1/4" cold roll dowell rod, splitting it in half on one end about 2", then just tacking the end making sure to keep the gap straight. Using plumbers roll emory thread it into the gap and roll it to the desired diameter. I have made an assortment of lengths and the emory is avalible in all grits. Just use the same technique as David and cut the lead edge when its worn out. Its much cheeper and works just as well.
Thank you for showing us how to follow your instructions.
Thanks for sharing, you have the most informative and descriptive, teacher Thanks again, all the best to you and your loved ones
Best porting video I've seen. Well done David!👍👍👍
Awesome, I really like the longer videos !
Why am i not surprised DV knew how to modify the shopvac for better airflow😂😂👊
Yet another amazing info packed video!
Thanks DV!!!
Great video 👍
Sears use to sell something like them. I went threw like 6 of them. The secret is to buy a box and Install a fan switch with a 110 plug so you can slow down the speed of the grinder. I use a 4 by 4 steel box. Also get some wd 40 if you are using aluminum heads. Keeps the carbide cutter from sticking to the cutter. Aluminum will melt to your cutter making it hard to clean and wrecks the cutter way to fast. I use to buy the 4 or 6 inch 1/4 shank. The longer the shank the slower speeds you need to control your cut and not bend the cutter shank. If you bend one which can happen very easy you just cut it down and use it as a 3 inch or 2 inch to get it to run true so you don't throw them away. For cast iron try and buy the white stone as they break down as you use them so you have good cutting action all the time. You buy to hard of a stone you have to dress them all the dam time. On cast iron heads the grinding stone leave a good finish so you really don't need to use polishing stuff as you want the part that shows the light grinding marks to help the gas get mixed with air much better. You get them to smooth the gas just puddles up and the fuel mixture gets lazy. You can get mirror finish on the exhaust port and such is a waste IMO as you run the engine the carbon will still build up a little. Why I just leave the exhaust ports with grinding stone marks as the carbon will fill the little marks were they are needed the most. Take swirl finish valves after a few thousands miles there all gone filled up with gas costing or carbon on the exhaust. When they put a engine on a dyno all the new stuff makes a little more power. Put the same motor back on a dyno after it has been run on the street for few thousand miles or so many runs down the track equal to 2,000 miles of street driving. Really drag racing is not a great way to do it cause you are full throttle most the time so you don't get a true build up of carbon as street driving. I have a street car and if you drag race it after street driving it it can take maybe 3 passes or more to clean all the carbon build up. When you see the gray smoke coming out the tail pipes it is as clean as you are going to get it. With stuff costing so much money today people can hardly afford to pay there bills plus pay this game anymore. Sad really as the 50s and 60s were the best years. There was always a ton of people at drive in eating places on Friday and Saturday night. They were everywhere. Never gona see those days again. American Graffiti was like it was back then just with much much more cars. When I go to heaven I hope they have a place for people who really loved those times.
Aaah... '62-66. 👍👍
I love this. Doing more, with less. I grew up this way. Making something from nothing… or close to it. Using your mind and creativity rather than your pocket book. That Is what HotRidding is all about! Although I think that particular way of thinking has died off. Nowadays it’s easy to buy speed and HP. Wasn’t that way when I was younger.
I have learned so much from you Mr. Vizard thank you!
David thank you for sharing your techniques. I'm wanting to port some harley heads and am just gobbling up your head porting advice. especially enjoyed the video about making flow path of least resistance. 👍
Loving this content. I've watched a lot of you videos and I've always said to myself, ok but how. Now we are getting there.
Thank you, Mr Vizard & crew.
I could watch this man all day.
Thanks for this David. I really like this style of Video for us out in our out house, with limited tooling just trying to gain a little HP. Please make some more. I have some old cars and would like maybe some instruction on taking some weight of a crank. Would be an addition to the videos on cranks that you have already produced but targeted at what could be achieved by the man in the shed.
Thanks DV. Doing my MGB head now. The Roloc and flap tips are great. I am a wimp and bought a EBay rotary shaft tool for less than $100. Way easier to handle than die grinders and has foot variable speed.
Steward - do you have a link to that ebay shaft grinder!! Need that for a video on grinders.
Thanks
DV
@@DavidVizard I picked up a cheap one from harbor freight and the little bench type grinder with flex shaft attachment but it just has 1/8th collet, but im looking at getting the Foredom brand like Eric Weingartener uses or maybe a Vevor brand that looks the same but cheaper. I'd like to see some review type videos on this stuff. Maybe save me from purchasing the wrong thing.
Fantastic! So much information. Invaluable👌🏽
As far as keeping a vacuum cleaner's insides cleaner, may I suggest an inexpensive device from Harbor Freight. It is a cyclonic dust separator #57194. Only requirement is the 5 gallon bucket and many folks have one laying around. It is also available from Harbor Freight and other places/home centers. These things work and you will be very impressed. I now have 2 of them, one an HF and the other came from Bang Good a few years ago. The Bang Good unit I have mounted in front of a Rigid vacuum and it is attached to my Harbor Freight blast cabinet. This is an earlier model that I converted from the fluorescent tube to a replacement LED tube and I can now see what I am blasting. I have made a bunch of mods to the cabinet and the only thing that slows me down is waiting for the air compressor. Back on topic - the dust separators works so well, in 4 plus years, I have yet to replace the air filter in the vacuum and I Have never emptied it out. The dust from bead and other media is collected in the 5 gallon bucket. It may also be useful on machines that have cutting fluids circulating to vacuum up the chips when the job is done and not foul the vacuum. I would rather just clean a bucket than a vacuum motor and be replacing filters with oil and imbedded swarf. The kit comes complete and at $39.99 is a modern era bargain. If dust and chips are your nemesis, pick up one of these when getting the wheel chocks.
Paul, Thanks for this - it's a hot tip.
This is actually brilliant
Oh, almost forgot, there are many centrifugal filter designs for woodworking on You Tube, it may be another option with a secondary collection bucket?
I also use shop vac to clean out AC condensation drain tube when lizards or frogs have taken up residence
Great job here Mr.Vizard! I too have been using the Shop-Vac with the highest-level filtration Bag available. It is important to note that I still use a high-efficiency filter in tandem with the Bag. This protects the motor even more than just a Bag, in the event the bag is torn and iron filings make their way to the motor shaft area, which is magnetic when in operation.
You had me really worried when you were using the Table saw cutting those wheel chocks! Did you notice how close your fingers were to the blade? Never do that! Other than that, I really enjoyed this video. Keep up the great work, and God Bless You my friend.
Thanks for sharing all that knowleage, just thank you very much.
This is one of the best if not the best place to learn car stuff online! Thank you for sharing the knowledge. I was smiling to myself realizing I came up with many of your tricks on my own over time. If you're new to this, watch and learn!
Knowledge is Power! Thank you for sharing!
Thank you so much !!! Health and happiness to you and your loved ones.
continued blessings to you all David! Thanks soo much for sharing some many of your hard earned secrets in this field in which you are very well known as a master. !
Nothing short of AMAZING.
Thanks David and so good to see you have caught up and surpassed the number of subscribers in your original channels. May I suggest you pick up a LAV mic for your videos to enhance the audio quality? Also, do you think you would ever do a video on the DIY port flowing bench you always wrote about? I've always wondered about that. Did you use an old block to build it? Or built something with plastic pipes? And how did you seal the bottom while allowing the vacuum to suck the air out of it? And what did you use to hold the valve down to the various measurements to take a pressure reading?
I have heard a well respected porter say that if you radius the intake seat it can allow the fuel to come out of suspension as it passes the seat and if you leave a pronounced edge around the seat, the shearing will keep the fuel atomized better. Thoughts on this?
Also, I have cut a slit in a piece of 1/4" round stock and wrapped 1" emery paper around it counter-clockwise sticking it to itself with super glue. This makes a cheap and effective emery roll.
@Mr. Vizard: Very good episode. Thank you.
It is like the Star Wars sequel: the first episode where it all starts with comes on the end. ...haha.
About the electric 'beast' grindermotor:
it is heavy and bad balanced for porting. But! But what you can do is balance it with a rope, cable, parachute cord above your head mounted on a gallow like structure with pulley wheels and on the end of the cord you hang a balancing weight.
Well you have to find you way with balancing but my feeling says it will work well.
Or on the end a spring?
At first you picked up a cutter and said that this was the right one not the high speed ones. ...are the high speed ones the ones with small cutting 'ribs' ?
I applied all of the principals that you teach David into two sets of cylinder heads. One set for a SBC and one set for a SBF turbo setup cant wait to see how well they perform. Thank You so much for sharing the knowledge that you have with us.
Hope Dave mentions the Harbor Freight 0.5" x 6" belt Sanders, for ~$36 depending on Sale time.
Airflowing the vacuum cleaner. Simply beautiful. I always use bag type vacuums, but this never crossed my mind. Thank you for enlightening us. Will do this in the future.
This guy is excellent 👏👏
Thankyou for ALL that you do . I listen avidly to every word !👍👍👍🎯
Mr Vizard, I bought a few $10.00 air die grinders at Harbor Freight around 2002. They had extensive use for about 3 years when I was teaching 'Machine Shop' at MMI. Anyway, they still work fine 20 years later. Air are much easier to control as you don't have to 'pull the trigger' all the way.
One addition to the HF electric die grinder, router speed controller. Motor doesn't draw enough power to be completely effective but it does slow things down enough to be more controllable in many circumstances.
Do you get a choice in the Goodson kits?
The one you showed is for aluminium which I found chips a bit easy when cutting cast iron so a multi tooth cutter works better in my opinion
pure gold, informative as always
Beautiful Port!
Thank you Dave appreciate you sharing your priceless experience and knowledge,
Great episode DV, really appreciate you're time to make these videos. I've dragged out your books to re-read at night also, so I'm picking up huge volumes of information. Great tips about your tools. Cheers mate!
Great information
Truly great professional tip Mr.DV! Thank you for sharing them. I'd like to remind everyone when using circular saw not to bring the finger too close to the cutting blade as the object being cut may bounce and fly away from the blade and cutting board. There are too many fingers lost in working with these machines!
Thank You for sharing your knowledge. God Bless and thank you.
You make this work look easy. Thanks, I learned something new today!!!
Great porting tips again David cheers.
Really like this video, I can totally use this advice!
Appreciate the hands-on tips.
These were excellent suggestions. As an alternative to the air grinders or bulky heavy corded grinders as David showed, consider a cordless grinder. I am familiar with the Milwaukee M12 units but I expect that you could get them in blue or yellow flavors too. I tried them and they were a revelation to me. I have both the straight and 90 degree versions and they have four speeds; the highest speed is about 20k RPM but the slower speeds offer better control for delicate work. They have more than enough power for heavy use, but they are light and have no cords or air hoses. I found that I had much less hand & wrist fatigue after a session with the cordless battery units than previously with either the air or corded grinders. I have air grinders and 120V corded grinders that I will likely never use again after experiencing the cordless battery units.
Awesome tips! Thanks for sharing
I was afraid you where going to cut your fingers off on that table saw. Please be more careful, we’d like to keep you around some longer. Tons of good safety videos on those saw’s on RUclips. That said, thank you for these great head porting videos A+ information !
Again another thanks for conceern over my fingers. You guys are great!!!!
Awesome video
Thank you Sir for sharing your knowledge.
Just beautiful!!!
My first try at porting I used a wood router motor with the base removed. A little unwieldy but it worked just fine. I've been using bags in my Shop Vacs for years. I wont use a Shop vacuum without one.
I have always polished exhaust ports mirror smooth and have left intakes rough to ade in droplet atomization.
Great video!
DAVID!!! Give the Cleveland head some love! There are tens of thousands 2 barrel 351 heads still in use and we don't want to spend $2000 on a set of new AL heads. But the stock 351 2V head flows like a stock small block Chevy, poor. There MUST be more cfm hiding in that head. Even 50 added would take the engine in our old pickups, T-birds, Montegos, etc to a new level.
Totally agree.
I know DV is a SBC fan however, I have 3 classic 70"s Ford Aussie muscle cars just waiting for their muscle.....
and all i have are 2V heads 😞
This was absolutly brilliant information! Thank you very much!
Great information from whole video. And now I know how to modify my wheel chocks. Thanks!
DV, thanks for another excellent video!....I've been doing this stuff since the 70's, but even I have learned a thing or two!!....I too am wondering about the progress of the SBF cams list....and also the SBF heads dyno info....Thanks again, I can't wait for the next video....
Really enjoy your videos!! I'm not seeing the super thanks option? Am I missing it?
I really appreciate your videos. Please do be careful with the table saw those, accidents can take a finger off in part of a second no matter how many years you've been using the table saw.
Thanks David
This video was very good and informative and had lots of useful information
Thank you David. Really appreciate your videos!
incredible information/tips of the trade David, thank you for sharing!!!
Outstanding! thank you
Ingenious 👍