Greg, if you are getting a welder for your shop, I STRONGLY recommend a Miller 211. It is arguably the best machine you could get for your purposes. They have a quick change plug for swapping between 110 and 220 volts, and they have an auto feature so it adjusts the amperage and wire speed for the thickness of material you are welding. it would be perfect for learning. I welded professionally for a couple years and have a 211 at home, it is an amazing little machine.
drill a hole at the end of the crack, v groove both sides and weld it. then get a plate and weld it over the crack. remember the round the corners so it doesn't cause another crack.
Basic mig and tig skills are fun to have and add a lot of value to your abilty to complete projects. Just dive in... you will be glad you did. The next step would be basic manual machining... mill/l lathe... Lots of old cheap machine tools out there that would be huge in fab work in the home shop. love the channel.
Hey Greg, those guys are right on with the drill stop and fish plate. Also, for a decent, cheap little mig, I highly recommend Everlast. They make a damned good inverter machine with high quality accessories included. I've had a PowerMTS 250S for several years now and I abuse that thing and it lives in a friggin' doorless garage in New England. 5 year warranty to boot.
Hey greg I rebuild bogie frames at work as well as some frame stretches on trucks, best way I've found and have learned over the test of time and oversized loads is cut out bad part of the frame if to that extent. Which in your case it doesnt look like it. For yours I would drill holes in both ends of the crack. Then grind a groove to connect each hole over crack. Weld nice and flush, don't grind if it looks nice and flush. Then gusset the inside with thick angle with as much coverage past both sides of crack as you can. Then paint er up
As far as the cracked frame, make sure on the crack above the hole you drill a small 1/8" or so hole at the very end of the crack before welding it upto prevent it from spreading in the future, yes it will spread even after welding. Like Powerstroke PA said weld it up grind it down and weld a fish plate over it, on both sides if you can, it will help spread the stress over a larger area
I have a 92 that had the same problem. I drilled out the ends of the crack welded it the made a plate to weld over it. also bought a brace for the steering box to help keep the frame from flexing so much
Grind a groove in the crack with a 1/8 disk, go a little past on each side until you no longer see the crack, If welding with Mig, angle the gun up for no undercut and weld uphill for extra strength, grind flush and then touch up with a tiger disk for nice finish and then fish plate if you feel needed! Good luck sir, keep up the videos 👍🏻
Hey Greg, with your crack in your frame, you would drill a small hole at each end of the crack to keep it from growing, and then you will weld it up from each hole to the other. This is how to properly fix a crack in metal.
Straight stack with old school rain cap. If you are not planning on doing any serious welding, just tacking things for mock up, the small black welder from Harbor Freight isn't to bad. It's usually around $80. Ready to see you make some smoke in the first gen.
miter cut looks better then the flat cut. keep the good work up. love the channel. and for the frame crack. grind a valley weld fill grind and put a plate over it on both sides and a extra brace to connect passenger and driver side frame.
Ok Greg, First on the cracked frame no biggie just take it to your buddies clean it up, grind a valley into the crack to get the best penetration of the weld as possible then weld er up grind it smooth then weld a fish plate over it for added strength. This will give you the best results in durability and longevity. Second thing on the hood stack I liked the miter cut but i would sink it in the hood a little bit so it doesn't stand so tall out of the hood. As always keep up the good work look forward to your next video.
Man I found the channel about 2 months ago, and I'm wondering how I missed out so long. Keep up the genuine diesel content. I'm not even a Cummins guy, but I love the channel. S/O to Russel for keeping the Powerstrokes in the loop! lol
Sounds like everyone agrees on how to fix the frame, and I agree with it. I've fixed a couple that way. I like both stack setups. If you go with a flat top stack, you gotta go with a weather cap. Most people hate them, but I like that rattle at idle. I've spent too many hours on straight piped tractors with a weather cap on them I guess.
Drill the end of the crack with a small bit, grind it out into a V, weld it, grind it down, and fish plate over the top. Definitely like the 6" mitre better, I run one also on my Powerstroke so I might be biased.
get a 7.3 powerstroke intercooler. I did it to my 93, and it was very easy to install, the 2nd gen ones are easy for the earlier non-intercooled 1st gens
If you do the flat top put a sick flapper cap on it! Also you can pickup a cheap mig welder or Flux core welder at Harbor Freight that would work great for what you guys need it for.
GREG the way i've welded frames is grinding in the crack slightly and clean around it. then 6010 or 6011 the crack vertical up the just grind the weld surface and the vertical 7018 over that. Or you can 6010 or 6011 the crack the grind it smooth not all the way out the take a oval shape plate of 1/4 inch and 7018 around that. I've done several repairs on truck frame and i hold my associate degree in welding and 4 welding certifications in structural plate steel
i say 6010 if you have a DC current power source has best penetration and 6011 if you're using an AC power source. If you have any question Please feel free to ask. I love Welding
Dude that height is perfect I luv this build it's gonna turn out perfect not a big fan of dodge but I'd drive that all day but I still luv my fords lol.!!!
find both ends of the crack and drill a small hole where it stops to keep the crack from spreading. then grind it all clean grove the crack weld it then cut a fish plate looks like this and fully weld that over the crack.
Just in passing: You really need to determine the type of steel from which the frame / chassis is made, to enable the correct welding rod to be used, if you are going to use arc type.Some require pre-heating, so temp sticks req'd. Some chassis / frames do not permit pre-heating. You can drill and tap the crack using a "boilermakers stitch' which eliminates welding. Don't start using lots of fish plates / plating, all that does is add weight and encourages future cracking.
Well I'd drill out both ends of the crack, then grind the crack down and weld it. If u wanna plate it after that its up to u, I've done A bit of these and no issues. Hope it goes good.
On cracked frame, fine end of cracks, get a small drill bit and drill the ends so crack doesn't keep moving, then plate and weld both sides, and go for miter hood stack
Great start to everyday when you upload! btw in my opinion the miter stack looks steezy, maybe an inch shorter though. Overall stoked you went with a hood stack, looks great either way!
Hey man I would drill a small hole at the the beginning and end of the crack and then take a grinder and vee the crack out to weld it for full penitratation and a small fish plate would fix it better than new
Also my opininon in the frame is to weld the crack then grind down and plate weld it. That way sinc theres a hole there it will stiffen yo the rail alot more
Mitre cut. and I have a crack,on the frame on my daily Cherokee. after doing a bit of reading, it seems like most people recommend drilling a hole at both ends of the crack and filling it in. But my Jeep is a unibody so an actual frame might be different.
Definitely plate the frame when it gets repaired, I'm sure somebody has already said it but clean the rust off ,then fill it with weld, grid it flush then put a plate over it and weld it on. You'll be glad that you won't have to go back later and fix it when it's even worse.
miter cut same height as the straight cut u previewed for us. looks good man. I look forward to watching ur videos everyday. old lady he's mad at me but oh well.
The hood stack is not my pick, but if ya gota do it. flat top is much better. also, a 4bt would be good, if you can shoehorn it in, its gona be tight. Cummins has a brand new 2.8 common rail that is meant to go in a Jeep, it comes as a complete kit, trans adapter ect. they are currently shipping out of Columbus IN . Actually the flat top is kinda growing on me. Make sure you drill a drain hole in the, up, pipe. keep it up luv the channel.
drill a hole at end of the crack good size hole and then weld some fat filler on that bad boy plate or whatever but drill end of crack that be the old school know how way a big five finger wave from Humboldt ca :)
what's up Greg quick question? how long is your flat bed trailer? and with that set up do you need a class A license for it? thanks again and love your videos
Greg, if you are getting a welder for your shop, I STRONGLY recommend a Miller 211. It is arguably the best machine you could get for your purposes. They have a quick change plug for swapping between 110 and 220 volts, and they have an auto feature so it adjusts the amperage and wire speed for the thickness of material you are welding. it would be perfect for learning. I welded professionally for a couple years and have a 211 at home, it is an amazing little machine.
drill a hole at the end of the crack, v groove both sides and weld it. then get a plate and weld it over the crack. remember the round the corners so it doesn't cause another crack.
Yep
hey greg on the cracked frame I would weld the crack grind smooth then weld in a fish plate.
Powerstroke PA true that's what I would do
Powerstroke PA I have a shop building air ride mini trucks and we fish plate everything. I vote fish plate as well.
Powerstroke PA just make sure to drill the ends of the crack before welding it so the crack didn't grow. x2 on the fish plating!
X3 on the fish plate and drill stop!
Gouge out the crack, fill it with weld then fish plate, and in the fish plates you drill out holes to weld in to the frame for multi support.
All in favor of a 4bt cummins swap for the ranger hit the like button!
That'd be sick!
Hell yeah it would! Never gotten a like on a RUclips comment haha
6bt swap ranger -- there's one in Florida - 640 to the wheels - bad to the bone!
Austin Day Auto Photography no how about a 460 or a 7.3
bobhilly546312156332 NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO
Basic mig and tig skills are fun to have and add a lot of value to your abilty to complete projects. Just dive in... you will be glad you did. The next step would be basic manual machining... mill/l lathe... Lots of old cheap machine tools out there that would be huge in fab work in the home shop. love the channel.
Hey Greg, those guys are right on with the drill stop and fish plate. Also, for a decent, cheap little mig, I highly recommend Everlast. They make a damned good inverter machine with high quality accessories included. I've had a PowerMTS 250S for several years now and I abuse that thing and it lives in a friggin' doorless garage in New England. 5 year warranty to boot.
Hey greg I rebuild bogie frames at work as well as some frame stretches on trucks, best way I've found and have learned over the test of time and oversized loads is cut out bad part of the frame if to that extent. Which in your case it doesnt look like it. For yours I would drill holes in both ends of the crack. Then grind a groove to connect each hole over crack. Weld nice and flush, don't grind if it looks nice and flush. Then gusset the inside with thick angle with as much coverage past both sides of crack as you can. Then paint er up
As far as the cracked frame, make sure on the crack above the hole you drill a small 1/8" or so hole at the very end of the crack before welding it upto prevent it from spreading in the future, yes it will spread even after welding. Like Powerstroke PA said weld it up grind it down and weld a fish plate over it, on both sides if you can, it will help spread the stress over a larger area
I have a 92 that had the same problem. I drilled out the ends of the crack welded it the made a plate to weld over it. also bought a brace for the steering box to help keep the frame from flexing so much
no episode yesterday bummed me out
By far my favorite channel. Hope it blows up and makes you guys some good money
Grind a groove in the crack with a 1/8 disk, go a little past on each side until you no longer see the crack, If welding with Mig, angle the gun up for no undercut and weld uphill for extra strength, grind flush and then touch up with a tiger disk for nice finish and then fish plate if you feel needed! Good luck sir, keep up the videos 👍🏻
Part of me likes the flat top, but more part of me likes the miter more. Gives it a meaner look
Exactly the way it sits with the Miter joby 👌🏼
Hey Greg, with your crack in your frame, you would drill a small hole at each end of the crack to keep it from growing, and then you will weld it up from each hole to the other. This is how to properly fix a crack in metal.
Straight stack with old school rain cap. If you are not planning on doing any serious welding, just tacking things for mock up, the small black welder from Harbor Freight isn't to bad. It's usually around $80. Ready to see you make some smoke in the first gen.
Miter looks 👌
miter cut looks better then the flat cut. keep the good work up. love the channel.
and for the frame crack. grind a valley weld fill grind and put a plate over it on both sides and a extra brace to connect passenger and driver side frame.
Ok Greg, First on the cracked frame no biggie just take it to your buddies clean it up, grind a valley into the crack to get the best penetration of the weld as possible then weld er up grind it smooth then weld a fish plate over it for added strength. This will give you the best results in durability and longevity. Second thing on the hood stack I liked the miter cut but i would sink it in the hood a little bit so it doesn't stand so tall out of the hood. As always keep up the good work look forward to your next video.
*Black Ceramic Coat the stack?*
Man I found the channel about 2 months ago, and I'm wondering how I missed out so long. Keep up the genuine diesel content. I'm not even a Cummins guy, but I love the channel. S/O to Russel for keeping the Powerstrokes in the loop! lol
Sounds like everyone agrees on how to fix the frame, and I agree with it. I've fixed a couple that way. I like both stack setups. If you go with a flat top stack, you gotta go with a weather cap. Most people hate them, but I like that rattle at idle. I've spent too many hours on straight piped tractors with a weather cap on them I guess.
Drill the end of the crack with a small bit, grind it out into a V, weld it, grind it down, and fish plate over the top.
Definitely like the 6" mitre better, I run one also on my Powerstroke so I might be biased.
Between the video quality, vehicle quality, and content quality I've been hooked since the first video I've watched. Keep up the rad content 👍🏻
Another great video as always Greg, congratulations on 40k subscribers!
get a 7.3 powerstroke intercooler. I did it to my 93, and it was very easy to install, the 2nd gen ones are easy for the earlier non-intercooled 1st gens
I'm diggin the mitre cut stack.... truck is coming along nicely!
If you do the flat top put a sick flapper cap on it! Also you can pickup a cheap mig welder or Flux core welder at Harbor Freight that would work great for what you guys need it for.
GREG the way i've welded frames is grinding in the crack slightly and clean around it. then 6010 or 6011 the crack vertical up the just grind the weld surface and the vertical 7018 over that. Or you can 6010 or 6011 the crack the grind it smooth not all the way out the take a oval shape plate of 1/4 inch and 7018 around that. I've done several repairs on truck frame and i hold my associate degree in welding and 4 welding certifications in structural plate steel
i say 6010 if you have a DC current power source has best penetration and 6011 if you're using an AC power source. If you have any question Please feel free to ask. I love Welding
Also disconnect the battery so it does not ground out the truck and put the ground lead as close to the area being welded
I really like the mitre cut one. looks great.
Miter cut hood stack for the win!
duck tape is what i use to fix cracked frames
Jonathan Glynn, JB weld
Sloan V you know I was thinking that might be the next thing if the duck tape didn't work
Jonathan Glynn Zip Tiea
I'd say flattop stack. Follows the shape of the old 1st gens. Since there more squared off. Keep the videos coming. Great job
Hey greg it would be really cool to weld that bottle opener into the tailgate jam, great videos
Dude that height is perfect I luv this build it's gonna turn out perfect not a big fan of dodge but I'd drive that all day but I still luv my fords lol.!!!
Miter cut for sure
MDS Customs Yes but put it so the tall part is to the front and it slants to the back
I would drill both ends of the crack with a small drill bit and then grind out the crack so you can weld it and plate it also
I remember when I first started watching your videos you had 800 subscribers if that. Been subbed ever since keep it up
Keep it up! Love watching your videos. Pappy scrappy is looking wayy better
2:05 the definition of trust
I've been wanting to do a hoodstack on my first gen but don't want to do a straight 90.. where did you get your piping from?!
find both ends of the crack and drill a small hole where it stops to keep the crack from spreading. then grind it all clean grove the crack weld it then cut a fish plate looks like this and fully weld that over the crack.
happy 40k man!
Hey sense you have your new twin turbo setup do you still have this old hood stack? Im looking for a hood stack for my first gen dodge plz lmk🤙🏼
Just in passing: You really need to determine the type of steel from which the frame / chassis is made, to enable the correct welding rod to be used, if you are going to use arc type.Some require pre-heating, so temp sticks req'd. Some chassis / frames do not permit pre-heating. You can drill and tap the crack using a "boilermakers stitch' which eliminates welding. Don't start using lots of fish plates / plating, all that does is add weight and encourages future cracking.
Well I'd drill out both ends of the crack, then grind the crack down and weld it. If u wanna plate it after that its up to u, I've done A bit of these and no issues. Hope it goes good.
Take the cooler to fingers radiator down on rt 1 in New Brunswick I think it is. Super fast and great work. Use them at work all the time.
On cracked frame, fine end of cracks, get a small drill bit and drill the ends so crack doesn't keep moving, then plate and weld both sides, and go for miter hood stack
Hood stack with the miter looks great, I would make it an inch or so shorter tho. Keep it up guys.
Great start to everyday when you upload! btw in my opinion the miter stack looks steezy, maybe an inch shorter though. Overall stoked you went with a hood stack, looks great either way!
I just picked up a little 90 amp flux core welder at harbor freight for $100. works great for little jobs. No issues yet!
Hey man I would drill a small hole at the the beginning and end of the crack and then take a grinder and vee the crack out to weld it for full penitratation and a small fish plate would fix it better than new
Also my opininon in the frame is to weld the crack then grind down and plate weld it. That way sinc theres a hole there it will stiffen yo the rail alot more
Miter cut, definitely miter cut. As for the crack, grind it smooth and weld a plate over it.
i am a huge fan of the sleeper look but also like hood stacks. so i would go with the flat cut and only have 2 to 3 inches sticking out
What dia. pipe did you use to make the stack?
Hood looks amazing Greg, use the mitre end for sure.
Mitre cut. and I have a crack,on the frame on my daily Cherokee. after doing a bit of reading, it seems like most people recommend drilling a hole at both ends of the crack and filling it in. But my Jeep is a unibody so an actual frame might be different.
Definitely plate the frame when it gets repaired, I'm sure somebody has already said it but clean the rust off ,then fill it with weld, grid it flush then put a plate over it and weld it on. You'll be glad that you won't have to go back later and fix it when it's even worse.
Miter looks 🔥🔥🔥👍🏻👍🏻
I say do the miter with the top tip facing the windshield then the lowest part facing away from the truck
I just got the notification, y'all are quick AF.
miter cut same height as the straight cut u previewed for us. looks good man. I look forward to watching ur videos everyday. old lady he's mad at me but oh well.
The hood stack is not my pick, but if ya gota do it. flat top is much better. also, a 4bt would be good, if you can shoehorn it in, its gona be tight. Cummins has a brand new 2.8 common rail that is meant to go in a Jeep, it comes as a complete kit, trans adapter ect. they are currently shipping out of Columbus IN . Actually the flat top is kinda growing on me. Make sure you drill a drain hole in the, up, pipe. keep it up luv the channel.
What about a miter cut about half the angle of the first?
nice shirt! kubota my moms worked there for 46 years longest employee there.
what camera are you recording with
On the cracked frame I would use bubblegum duct tape and pixie dust and a little bite of love lol 😂 I would go with the angled stack looks better 🤗
miter cut looks cool but the flat top just compliments the first gen look so well! I'll have to say flat top.
congrats on 40k! and miter cut 100%
love the miter I think have the angle be 1" over the hood and the height be from just the angle
drill a hole at end of the crack good size hole and then weld some fat filler on that bad boy plate or whatever but drill end of crack that be the old school know how way a big five finger wave from Humboldt ca :)
It looks hella good!!
Weld the crack grind it down flat then put some plates on both sides cause when you heat the frame up it weakens it up
You got the mishimoto radiator might as well get the mishimoto 2nd gen intercooler.
Greg does your mishimoto radiator do pretty good? I got a 93, 1 ton twelve I’m about to start doing some upgrades on, @ me when you can buddy
hey man keep up the good work love youre videos
you can just use a couple of batteries and jumper cables with a welding rod to tac the exaust
I was always told the rear cylinders run hotter so you need to put your temp probe in the rear 3 cylinder split as you did.
How did your secure the hood stack so it won't move?
what's up Greg quick question? how long is your flat bed trailer? and with that set up do you need a class A license for it? thanks again and love your videos
Is a hood stack legal to run where you're at? I love the look, but not legal in Utah...
hey Greg can you tell me what model mishimoto intercooler that is
That bottle opener the bottom piece also puts holes in the side of the beer cans to shotgun them. A company called chug card makes a similar thing
The more you know 😂😂
Thinking the mitre cut is cool👍🏻👍🏻
Plate the frame over the crack if you don't it will just crack again close to the weld I've learned the hard way 😂
Yes miter cut!!!! Looks so good
ive got an extra flux welder if you want it not mig but its a damn welder lol
The miter stack looks great, I wouldn't shorten it any either.
Do the miter cut with the same clocking as you had mocked up! Square is boring. hahaha
I think the 5 foot mitre cut looks best hahahah!
RJS92 might as well do a 90 bend like a Semi lol
Looks badass! Miter cut
i say flat top with a flapper as well! that way you don't gotta carry around a bucket. just send it!
miter but point the top of the tip closest to windshield to minimize build up of carbon on your glass/roof
grind a grove in the crack and weld then grind flush then weld plates on both side for strength plus a plate on the runner channel
Are hood stacks legal in nj?
Scott Donnelly if I remember correctly federal law is “the exhaust must exit behind the passenger compartment”
I did the same thing when tapping my manifold I drilled right in the middle forgot it was divided lol
find the end of the crack on the frame and drill a hole to prevent it from cracking more then weld grind and fish plate it
get an eastwood mig 135, hell of a little welder, great for tacks
12:42 Harley - Davids?