Great point at around 7:30 regarding temperature control varying at the start and end Jesse. I put my 1st two washes on (a Turbo and a TPW) and they both reacted well at the start and slowed to a 🐌 at the end. Unfortunately I tried to bring the temp down early and wasn't able to hold it late BUT now I've learnt a valuable lesson and your video has confirmed this 🙏👌👍 Cheers mate!
I took some Heating Pads and blue painters tape to secure them to the surface of a 55 gallon barlow. I insulated it with Hot Water heater insulation and control it with a PID controller. Cheap and work's like a Mother. Happy dayz friends.
Good stuff J keep it up. I use a heat pad with a PID controller and SSR, it keeps the temperature to within at worst 0.5 degrees after a short time - no cooling though....yet . I also use it (in manual as a percentage output) to controll my still heater.
Timely topic. My second ferment is a Bavarian Hefeweizen. I thought it would tolerate warmth better as instructions seemed to allude. 80 degrees in house, no ferment. Before taking drastic measures, I took it to my wife's studio out back where temp is around 68, and ferment is so good, I had to abandon the air lock with a blow off.
Came across your video. The temp control of fermentation along with product storage/aging was rattling around my head that last few weeks. I just read a paper about how fermentation temps can decrease or increase the ABV % produced by the yeast from below normal to as high as 22%. The test used certain wine yeast within a temp range of 20 C - 26 C. The temp band according to the article did not produce off-flavors, except for the high alcohol smell/taste in the higher temp ABV products produced. The test environment controlled ph as well as nutrient and feeding.
There was a bit of a learning curve for me, living in the great white north, fermenting in winter, then in summer. In winter, the wash is very insulated, and requires the heater within the first 12 hours. In summer, the barrel is uninsulated for the first several days, then insulated for a couple, then finally heated for the remainder. Sometimes it is warm enough (like this friggin heatwave) where no insulation or heating is required at all to finish up. It is never hot enough to need to cool it however, unless I pitch the yeast while the mix is still too warm, which happened to me once and the yeast heated the batch and cooked itself to death. My favorite tool when mixing a batch is a IR temperature gun for pitching, and a STC-1000 hooked to an aquarium heater (because you should never trust them alone). When there are tools out there to make life easier, why not use them?
Hey mate, good videos. ive just started making spirits and your videos have been gold im just about to start a UJSSM after watching your videos. I am in the tropics and i've been brewing my beer in a fridge that is controlled by the BrewPi for a while now. works like a treat, and it also keeps a log of the brews that you do. well worth looking at. ive done mine on the cheap with a little Arduino, old netbook and a little programming. but they do make one ready to plug and play.
The BrewPi has been really good ive been able to brew a lager at 12c while its been 42c and 70% humidity outside. At the moment im brewing some wash using CL23 yeast at a steady 20c in it. yeah its mango season so I think some mango brandy will be the next run 👍🥭
My set up: I do 6 gallon mashes. So I got a large washtub (Walmart $10). Have a basic copper wort chiller made to the outside dementions of my ferment. Bucket. 1 put bucket inside wash tub,, 2. Put chiller around fermenter, (inside washtub) fill w/ proper temp water,, hook wort chiller to small submersible pond pump inside of ice chest w/ water and LARGE chunks of ice. Also put aquarium heater IN WATER BATH TUB. I use a inkbird temp controller ($30). So plug the pond pump into the “cold side”, and the aquarium heater on the “hot side” (of inkbird) . When it’s too hot ,, the pond pump kicks on and circulates VERY cold water thru the wort chiller, dropping the temp (QUICKLY), when it’s too cold,, the inkbird triggers the aquarium heater, heating the water bath !, this maintains the water bath !! I have found the heater IN the mash is not as efficient,, giving distinct hot spots, where the water bath maintains the temp nicely !! With a large cooler and large ice blocks, you only have to add ice every three days or so !! It’s basically a glycol chiller at a WAYYYYY CHEAPER price 👍😎
Wow - Love it. I'm looking forward to you doing the fermentation chamber. I lived in Brisbane and never had and issue with fermenting 100 litre batches. had my fermenters on a pallet and they fermented out in a week summer or winter. Now I am in Sydney and using the same fermenters I'm struggling. its OK for the first little while than it slows and the brew belt is just not maintaining the 23 - 27 deg. I'm going to try the aquarium heater at 200 watts. Thanks so much for the info.
like, + love, ++ temp control is key, +++ my homebrew has gotten way more better since I started controlling temps. ;) @ 1:23 you talk about fermentation in winter being to cold for Lagers or what not. winter is the perfect time to do a lager, before I had my temp controlled fridge it was the only way. hehe. my last lager was at like 42* for 3 weeks. And nice I use the same STC1000 in my homebrew setup and I made a box that looks like yours!!. lol for ales when I started out and it was winter I would use a large plastic tote/bin remove the lid add water and add the fish tank heater. it was called a swamp bath setup from what i recall. I would heat the water to what I wanted the beer to be at. I would then set my bucket in the bath and all the temps would even out. those fishtank heaters can do a great job to hold a warm temp. they turn off and on and keep the water nice and steady. that was great on the winter, but in summer need to use the STC 1000 and a fridge or chest freezer. works mint. love it! like how you touched upon the PID as I have no clue on those yet but am curious. you definitely should create a fermentation chamber. I got my RC cola fridge used for 50$ and replaced the door gasket and it is amazing. one draw back it sucks some power when on. lol which is often. ;) love the video.
Im building a 200 litre system. Its autumn now in Australia and will be winter soon so heaters are needed. I wish I had seen this a couple of months back when I had a stuck ferment.
Food for thought I ran fish tank heaters in my brews for years when I was in a colder climate biggest thing I found was if it was a 25ltr wash use a heater designed for a 25 ltr tank and so on (touch wood) haven't cooked a wash yet
Dude!! Love ya videos cobber!! I’m brand mew to making spirits and these vids are quickly becoming my go to for answers as I think of the questions! Also, I get to see the beard 3 teed after you bloody starte it!! Hahaha. Good onya
Super topic! Thanks as always Jesse. I've been trying to come up with a design for a fermentation chamber for a 200l fermentor, but haven't figured out a cheap way to cool inside the insulated box (other than a fan). Any ideas????
Would have never got into this hobby if it wasn't for you Jessy, Slainte. Set up an inkbird lastnight in an old chest freezer with a greenhouse heater connected, cant wait to go out this morning and see how it is performing.🥃🇮🇪
I use one of those submersible heaters, like you are, looks like you were having issues with it over heating because it needs to be fully submerged to correctly control.
Hey, be extremely careful with the electric heaters with plastic housing, they need to cool down before you completely switch them off. If you don't cool them down before completely shut down they tend to catch fire next time when you switch them back on. Good point on PID vs. STC.
Hi after looking at some people who say there’s not enough circulation for a fish tank heater . I got some 40 mm waste tube . Trepanned a plastic lid and hot glue gunned my heater in the tube in boiled water . My theory is the tube water gets to temp and the plastic is not conductive enough to kill the yeast . Then wrapped the outside of the barrel with sun lounger Cushing . The room goes from 12c to 20. My 25 litre is 21c with a 50watt heater.
I know this is an older video, I have a question, I was wondering I have used an Aquaium heater for awhile now. I do aquariums too. would a small pump inside the fermenter help or hurt?
Oh man. I've been binge watching your videos and I subscribed one the first watch. Love everything your doing mate. Truly. I'm wanting to pick up the craft. It's just living in Texas kinda screws me 😥🤬 never the less. Keep making this videos and I'll keep watching. And don't mind the name, I'm under cover
Haha it's all good. Magnificent Bastard aka one of the Whisky Tribe / vault followers. They are in Austin, so I always wonder as the cross over between our channels is pretty high haha
@Still It , Jesse, Can you cover esters and flavors and how to get them? For example vanillin can be produced from new oak. If you wanted to focus a spirit to just have sweet floral light vanilla flavors without adding anything other than yeast sugar and water and "aging" with new oak for more rounded flavors. The other way could be more spicy earthy notes. I know, like you have mentioned temperature of yeast matters but what else can we control to focus on all the chemical compounds? I know you can add flavors and other notes artificially, I am looking to try and produce a pure product from the start and not put a band-aid on a issue of lacking knowledge. cheer!
A welcome presentation, however, a PID controller doesn't "learn" anything. It just compensates what it does based on how long the temperature has been wrong, and how rapidly it is approaching or leaving the correct temperature, and of course, the difference between correct temp, and what the temp is right now. PID stands for Proportional, Integral and Differential (or derivative). They are notoriously fiddly to get to behave correctly, and are most suited to things with a big inertial problem such as getting a machine to stop at the right location... driving it toward the right location results in it going too fast when it gets there, so it overshoots badly etc. Liquid temp in a brewer has temperature, which doesn't have any significant inertial behaviour. So the most practical control is the type you are using. I would like to see an effective way to get cold out of a small bar fridge, and into my brew, which is far to big to go into the fridge. I have a steel cake tray that fits neatly into the small ice chest. I will run car glycol mix from it using a small water pump, through a cooling tube in the brewer... I previously had a bucket of water in the fridge and pumped from it with very little success.
This is always a problem for me if I go over an eight gallon batch I finally made a wort chiller out of copper pipe mounted it on my lid then I use a fountain pump to circulate cold water when my temperature is to warm a I use a pid to control it and freeze two liter soda bottles that I add into the bucket when needed.
Problem with PDI controllers " Proportional, Incremental, Derivative" the heating elements whether distilling or fermenting get very hot at the surface of the element. This surface temperature of the element will kill yeast during fermentation or boil away alcohol. You must understand this flaw and adjust your design appropriately. Example Fermentation best to use another smaller vessel and heat that water and circulate it through a closed loop system at around 100* F or 38*C. Distilling close off all covers ie your Sanki fittings, valves ect. You do not want any vapor from boiling at heating element to escape your pot. Hope this helps.
This is the single best comment regarding heaters and brews. Why serious brewers aren’t using a double pot set up is beyond me. I would do it for mead if not for my house being temperature stable. If i moved to garage or similar then id move to a closed loop water heater/chiller set up. This way year round cooking is possible. I will note another good idea is a to have a very well insulated mini room or similar if you do lots of small batches. Its simply cheaper and more efficient at this point.
I just wonder if using aquarium heater without decent liquid flow around it (like you have it in aquarium) doesn't maybe create a hotspot around it, so having optimum temp only near it, and as you move away from it the temps get lower? Maybe using multiple smaller heaters located in different places could help mitigate this, if it's a problem at all.
a little bit pricey, but this where an agitator would be ideal. Gently spins the mash/wash without introducing oxygen but keeps the yeast and temps stable. Can be made with corded drills, but finding a stainless steel paint mixer might be a bit of an ordeal
Aquarium heater needs to be put in a fish long bag with water so the fermentation does touch the element and cook the yeast also help spread heat evenly just need a slightly bigger bucket
yeast swingers party? hahaha. I´ve used STC-1000 with heating belt/fridge for 7-8 years and never had any problems. I also ferment at the lower end of the recommended temp for the yeast. Cheers
Still It Yes, very solid. I`ve got a couple for fermenting fridges and keezer and I`ve buildt a couple spares just in case one failes. They work and I couldn`t have my hobby without them
How much sugar can yeast eat in 5 gallons of water im aware there are different yeats so lets say champagne yeast for instance and to simplify PS i have a fish lizard tank heat pad that can keep any tempo you set it to .
I'd caution you before heading down that road. Throwing more and more sugar at the yeast tends to stress them out. Stressed yeast make funky and not great flavours. So if you in the game of making tasty booze I'd not go past about 10-12% depending on what your making.
Molasses rum wash. Flavour amazing. Making the wash ... shit. Sticky smelly and leaves black residue all through the fraction tube. But left on toasted oak for a few months, so much better than anything bought. Soo worth it!
My fermentation is very slowly. Bubbles a little every few minutes. Seems like my past brews always seemed like fermentation was very active . Is my beer ok?
Hey mate new to this all glad I found your channel. I have a question for you . . . . Do you know if the (pair coil) i think it's called that you get when you buy a heat pump system .is the copper tubes safe and ok to use ? Both new and used pipes . I know the used stuff would of had the gas for the system running though it not sure if the copper would absorb any thing . Any help would be great cheers
repn rfb Hi, the refrigerant is not good for you and would have been slightly absorbed by the copper. There will also be some oil residue in the copper so I wouldn't go near it if I were you, nasty stuff.
4:50 definitely use stress intentionally for some unique qualities. Check out the thread on hd and adi about intentionally stressing the yeast with heat so that the yeast produces diacetyl - a chemical that creates a butter aroma and flavor. buttery corn whiskey and butterscotch rum. White Labs discusses the timeline here: www.whitelabs.com/sites/default/files/Diacetyl_Time_Line.pdf
I don"t speak english well, can anybody help me what is the video conclucion? I have wached till the end, but still i could not get all the information
Watched this cuz I'm thinking I want to make a large-ish fermentation chamber...something that can hold a couple 6-gallon carboys at least, preferably those + a handful of 1-gallons. While this isn't the video I wanted exactly, it DID still give me some solid information. Using a PID, for one. My intention is to make a Peltier heater/cooler water cooled on a common reservoir at this point. Radiator should pull heat as well as displace cold...as long as it doesn't freeze (might use glycol instead of water for just that reason). Hopefully PID aren't too spendy, but if they are, can use what yer using. Peltier aren't expensive and I can scrounge the rest for the most part, might need to buy a cheap chinese radiator...
Hi mate, you and me both! I have been pondering this for some time. I still have not really settled on how I want to build my chamber. Ideally it would be great to have separate heat management on each fermenter. But that gets rather pricey! Thats pretty close to how the commercial setups do it. Check out the SS glycol system for example. The heating is easy, its the cooling thats tricky! Right now I am kinda leaning towards using a semi portable airconditioner in a over sized insulated box. I had toyed with the idea of having the air-conditioner set a little lower. Then using individually controloed heating blankets/pads/etc on each fermenter. But that seems rather inefficient!
I live in a condo my place is allways the same. Central air helps I don't do anything special. Obviously my fermenters are a few degrees warmer from metabolic heat. But my hang up little thermometers all ways in the 74-75 degree area like I've allready stated. Kind of frustrating not being able to ferment things like saisons or lagers obviously on opposite ends of temp spectrum.
PIDs do not learn, you have to tune them yourself. Also, although you can make it workwith pure on/off signals, a PID profits a lot from an input that it can regulate
Poor bugger. Guess you used a 50-60 gal (150W-200W) heater in a much smaller bucket eh? Unfortunately each of those damn things only work for a certain range. It can’t lower the wattage so the heat output is based on the assumption that you're heating X gallons and it's full-blast, or nothing. I guess you'd have to buy a lower watt heater for smaller 5-10 gallon "fish tanks"… or risk killing your "fish" as you discovered. Sad times...
It's funny you are into controlling your temperature with thermometers etc on your wash but you don't like controlling your temperature with thermometers when distilling.
![Digital Circus Episode 4 [TRAILER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/abZtsmMUbJo/mqdefault.jpg)
Whether brewing or stilling these tips are really important
Cheers my man
Excellent info Jessie. Just can't figure out why ANYONE would Dislike this video.
I guess they are out there no matter what you post. Cheers!
Haha yeah. Honestly it makes no difference either way to me. RUclips gives the same credit for thumbs up or down.
Cheers mate 🥃
Great point at around 7:30 regarding temperature control varying at the start and end Jesse.
I put my 1st two washes on (a Turbo and a TPW) and they both reacted well at the start and slowed to a 🐌 at the end.
Unfortunately I tried to bring the temp down early and wasn't able to hold it late BUT now I've learnt a valuable lesson and your video has confirmed this 🙏👌👍
Cheers mate!
I took some Heating Pads and blue painters tape to secure them to the surface of a 55 gallon barlow. I insulated it with Hot Water heater insulation and control it with a PID controller. Cheap and work's like a Mother. Happy dayz friends.
Thank you Jess I use the same fish tank hitters works ok for my fermentation only use it in winter time
Yeah nice man
Good stuff J keep it up. I use a heat pad with a PID controller and SSR, it keeps the temperature to within at worst 0.5 degrees after a short time - no cooling though....yet . I also use it (in manual as a percentage output) to controll my still heater.
Timely topic. My second ferment is a Bavarian Hefeweizen. I thought it would tolerate warmth better as instructions seemed to allude. 80 degrees in house, no ferment. Before taking drastic measures, I took it to my wife's studio out back where temp is around 68, and ferment is so good, I had to abandon the air lock with a blow off.
Came across your video. The temp control of fermentation along with product storage/aging was rattling around my head that last few weeks. I just read a paper about how fermentation temps can decrease or increase the ABV % produced by the yeast from below normal to as high as 22%. The test used certain wine yeast within a temp range of 20 C - 26 C. The temp band according to the article did not produce off-flavors, except for the high alcohol smell/taste in the higher temp ABV products produced. The test environment controlled ph as well as nutrient and feeding.
Interesting. Yeah different yeast definitly react differently. Want ot really blow your mind? Have a look a Kveik . . .
There was a bit of a learning curve for me, living in the great white north, fermenting in winter, then in summer.
In winter, the wash is very insulated, and requires the heater within the first 12 hours. In summer, the barrel is uninsulated for the first several days, then insulated for a couple, then finally heated for the remainder. Sometimes it is warm enough (like this friggin heatwave) where no insulation or heating is required at all to finish up. It is never hot enough to need to cool it however, unless I pitch the yeast while the mix is still too warm, which happened to me once and the yeast heated the batch and cooked itself to death.
My favorite tool when mixing a batch is a IR temperature gun for pitching, and a STC-1000 hooked to an aquarium heater (because you should never trust them alone). When there are tools out there to make life easier, why not use them?
Hey mate, good videos. ive just started making spirits and your videos have been gold im just about to start a UJSSM after watching your videos. I am in the tropics and i've been brewing my beer in a fridge that is controlled by the BrewPi for a while now. works like a treat, and it also keeps a log of the brews that you do. well worth looking at. ive done mine on the cheap with a little Arduino, old netbook and a little programming. but they do make one ready to plug and play.
Awesome! The brewpi is a nice setup aye? I envy all the sweet fruit you must get!
The BrewPi has been really good ive been able to brew a lager at 12c while its been 42c and 70% humidity outside. At the moment im brewing some wash using CL23 yeast at a steady 20c in it. yeah its mango season so I think some mango brandy will be the next run 👍🥭
Some of use all ways learn something from your videos. Keep it up man. 🍻
Cheers bud :)
My set up: I do 6 gallon mashes. So I got a large washtub (Walmart $10). Have a basic copper wort chiller made to the outside dementions of my ferment. Bucket. 1 put bucket inside wash tub,, 2. Put chiller around fermenter, (inside washtub) fill w/ proper temp water,, hook wort chiller to small submersible pond pump inside of ice chest w/ water and LARGE chunks of ice. Also put aquarium heater IN WATER BATH TUB. I use a inkbird temp controller ($30). So plug the pond pump into the “cold side”, and the aquarium heater on the “hot side” (of inkbird) . When it’s too hot ,, the pond pump kicks on and circulates VERY cold water thru the wort chiller, dropping the temp (QUICKLY), when it’s too cold,, the inkbird triggers the aquarium heater, heating the water bath !, this maintains the water bath !! I have found the heater IN the mash is not as efficient,, giving distinct hot spots, where the water bath maintains the temp nicely !! With a large cooler and large ice blocks, you only have to add ice every three days or so !! It’s basically a glycol chiller at a WAYYYYY CHEAPER price 👍😎
Wow - Love it. I'm looking forward to you doing the fermentation chamber.
I lived in Brisbane and never had and issue with fermenting 100 litre batches. had my fermenters on a pallet and they fermented out in a week summer or winter. Now I am in Sydney and using the same fermenters I'm struggling. its OK for the first little while than it slows and the brew belt is just not maintaining the 23 - 27 deg. I'm going to try the aquarium heater at 200 watts. Thanks so much for the info.
Yeah it is a interesting problem to solve aye? Our climate here sits either side too. Too hot during summer. To cold during winter.
like, + love, ++ temp control is key, +++ my homebrew has gotten way more better since I started controlling temps. ;) @ 1:23 you talk about fermentation in winter being to cold for Lagers or what not. winter is the perfect time to do a lager, before I had my temp controlled fridge it was the only way. hehe. my last lager was at like 42* for 3 weeks. And nice I use the same STC1000 in my homebrew setup and I made a box that looks like yours!!. lol for ales when I started out and it was winter I would use a large plastic tote/bin remove the lid add water and add the fish tank heater. it was called a swamp bath setup from what i recall. I would heat the water to what I wanted the beer to be at. I would then set my bucket in the bath and all the temps would even out. those fishtank heaters can do a great job to hold a warm temp. they turn off and on and keep the water nice and steady. that was great on the winter, but in summer need to use the STC 1000 and a fridge or chest freezer. works mint. love it! like how you touched upon the PID as I have no clue on those yet but am curious. you definitely should create a fermentation chamber. I got my RC cola fridge used for 50$ and replaced the door gasket and it is amazing. one draw back it sucks some power when on. lol which is often. ;) love the video.
Im building a 200 litre system. Its autumn now in Australia and will be winter soon so heaters are needed. I wish I had seen this a couple of months back when I had a stuck ferment.
Yeah our yeasty friends are not so keen on putting in work in the cold!
Food for thought I ran fish tank heaters in my brews for years when I was in a colder climate biggest thing I found was if it was a 25ltr wash use a heater designed for a 25 ltr tank and so on (touch wood) haven't cooked a wash yet
Awesome vid once again.. Knowledge is power!
Thanks mate 🥃
Great video as always..and congrats at almost 10k subscribers
Thanks mate......we are almost there!
Dude!! Love ya videos cobber!! I’m brand mew to making spirits and these vids are quickly becoming my go to for answers as I think of the questions! Also, I get to see the beard 3 teed after you bloody starte it!! Hahaha. Good onya
Super topic! Thanks as always Jesse. I've been trying to come up with a design for a fermentation chamber for a 200l fermentor, but haven't figured out a cheap way to cool inside the insulated box (other than a fan). Any ideas????
Yeah I am thinking about it too. I am wondering about taking the door of a fridge and the building that into the side of the box.
Would have never got into this hobby if it wasn't for you Jessy, Slainte. Set up an inkbird lastnight in an old chest freezer with a greenhouse heater connected, cant wait to go out this morning and see how it is performing.🥃🇮🇪
I use one of those submersible heaters, like you are, looks like you were having issues with it over heating because it needs to be fully submerged to correctly control.
Hey, be extremely careful with the electric heaters with plastic housing, they need to cool down before you completely switch them off. If you don't cool them down before completely shut down they tend to catch fire next time when you switch them back on.
Good point on PID vs. STC.
I only make sugar washes (tums and neutral) so far.. but I use an a nova sous vide directly in the wash. Works well.
There are also very small aquarium heaters, as low as 25W. They are more suitable for 5-20L ferments. Very affordable as well, like $15
Yeah thats a easy buy right!
Hi after looking at some people who say there’s not enough circulation for a fish tank heater . I got some 40 mm waste tube . Trepanned a plastic lid and hot glue gunned my heater in the tube in boiled water . My theory is the tube water gets to temp and the plastic is not conductive enough to kill the yeast . Then wrapped the outside of the barrel with sun lounger Cushing .
The room goes from 12c to 20. My 25 litre is 21c with a 50watt heater.
I know this is an older video, I have a question, I was wondering I have used an Aquaium heater for awhile now. I do aquariums too. would a small pump inside the fermenter help or hurt?
Oh man. I've been binge watching your videos and I subscribed one the first watch. Love everything your doing mate. Truly. I'm wanting to pick up the craft. It's just living in Texas kinda screws me 😥🤬 never the less. Keep making this videos and I'll keep watching. And don't mind the name, I'm under cover
Yeah I feel you mate! You wouldn't happen to be a MB would you?
@@StillIt I wouldn't consider myself a master but I dabble on the down low
@@StillIt if that reply is confusing then obviously I wasn't sure of the MB abbreviation 😅
Haha it's all good. Magnificent Bastard aka one of the Whisky Tribe / vault followers. They are in Austin, so I always wonder as the cross over between our channels is pretty high haha
@@StillIt ah I got it. And no to answer the question. But being a magnificent bastard sounds amazing haha.
Have u considered running a worm inside the fermenter which is fed by a pump from another bucket of cooler water.
@Still It ,
Jesse,
Can you cover esters and flavors and how to get them? For example vanillin can be produced from new oak. If you wanted to focus a spirit to just have sweet floral light vanilla flavors without adding anything other than yeast sugar and water and "aging" with new oak for more rounded flavors. The other way could be more spicy earthy notes. I know, like you have mentioned temperature of yeast matters but what else can we control to focus on all the chemical compounds?
I know you can add flavors and other notes artificially, I am looking to try and produce a pure product from the start and not put a band-aid on a issue of lacking knowledge.
cheer!
Solid valuable info as always. Thanks Jesse:-)>
A pleasure as always!
Your delivery reminds me alot of the magician Chris Ramsey.
A welcome presentation, however, a PID controller doesn't "learn" anything. It just compensates what it does based on how long the temperature has been wrong, and how rapidly it is approaching or leaving the correct temperature, and of course, the difference between correct temp, and what the temp is right now. PID stands for Proportional, Integral and Differential (or derivative). They are notoriously fiddly to get to behave correctly, and are most suited to things with a big inertial problem such as getting a machine to stop at the right location... driving it toward the right location results in it going too fast when it gets there, so it overshoots badly etc. Liquid temp in a brewer has temperature, which doesn't have any significant inertial behaviour. So the most practical control is the type you are using.
I would like to see an effective way to get cold out of a small bar fridge, and into my brew, which is far to big to go into the fridge.
I have a steel cake tray that fits neatly into the small ice chest. I will run car glycol mix from it using a small water pump, through a cooling tube in the brewer... I previously had a bucket of water in the fridge and pumped from it with very little success.
This is always a problem for me if I go over an eight gallon batch I finally made a wort chiller out of copper pipe mounted it on my lid then I use a fountain pump to circulate cold water when my temperature is to warm a I use a pid to control it and freeze two liter soda bottles that I add into the bucket when needed.
I live in the desert any ideas how to keep my mash cool
Problem with PDI controllers " Proportional, Incremental, Derivative" the heating elements whether distilling or fermenting get very hot at the surface of the element. This surface temperature of the element will kill yeast during fermentation or boil away alcohol. You must understand this flaw and adjust your design appropriately. Example Fermentation best to use another smaller vessel and heat that water and circulate it through a closed loop system at around 100* F or 38*C. Distilling close off all covers ie your Sanki fittings, valves ect. You do not want any vapor from boiling at heating element to escape your pot. Hope this helps.
This is the single best comment regarding heaters and brews. Why serious brewers aren’t using a double pot set up is beyond me. I would do it for mead if not for my house being temperature stable. If i moved to garage or similar then id move to a closed loop water heater/chiller set up. This way year round cooking is possible.
I will note another good idea is a to have a very well insulated mini room or similar if you do lots of small batches. Its simply cheaper and more efficient at this point.
I just wonder if using aquarium heater without decent liquid flow around it (like you have it in aquarium) doesn't maybe create a hotspot around it, so having optimum temp only near it, and as you move away from it the temps get lower? Maybe using multiple smaller heaters located in different places could help mitigate this, if it's a problem at all.
Yeah I think that is a valid point/concern. Not a bad idea having a couple of smaller ones in a large ferment.
a little bit pricey, but this where an agitator would be ideal. Gently spins the mash/wash without introducing oxygen but keeps the yeast and temps stable. Can be made with corded drills, but finding a stainless steel paint mixer might be a bit of an ordeal
i guess you could make one out of copper pipe
thanks for the tip
No prob mate :)
Aquarium heater needs to be put in a fish long bag with water so the fermentation does touch the element and cook the yeast also help spread heat evenly just need a slightly bigger bucket
yeast swingers party? hahaha. I´ve used STC-1000 with heating belt/fridge for 7-8 years and never had any problems. I also ferment at the lower end of the recommended temp for the yeast. Cheers
Nice. The stc is solid aye!
Still It Yes, very solid. I`ve got a couple for fermenting fridges and keezer and I`ve buildt a couple spares just in case one failes. They work and I couldn`t have my hobby without them
How much sugar can yeast eat in 5 gallons of water im aware there are different yeats so lets say champagne yeast for instance and to simplify PS i have a fish lizard tank heat pad that can keep any tempo you set it to .
I'd caution you before heading down that road. Throwing more and more sugar at the yeast tends to stress them out. Stressed yeast make funky and not great flavours. So if you in the game of making tasty booze I'd not go past about 10-12% depending on what your making.
Curious as to the mystery ferment. Colour wise I was thinking all molasses rum wash, but those temps are way too low. Dark beer type whisky?
I'm sworn to secrecy. . . . . But your on the right track hahaha 🤔😉
Molasses rum wash. Flavour amazing. Making the wash ... shit. Sticky smelly and leaves black residue all through the fraction tube. But left on toasted oak for a few months, so much better than anything bought. Soo worth it!
My fermentation is very slowly. Bubbles a little every few minutes. Seems like my past brews always seemed like fermentation was very active . Is my beer ok?
Still It . Most aquarium heaters, if not all are submersible and say not to operate outside of water. have you had any issues doing that?
It is in the wash.
nice info good video, thanks for sharing.
My pleasure mate 🥃
Great video
Cheers mate
Why not use an electric heating pad underneath a small fermentation bucket?
Very cool.
Cheers 🥃
Rule of thumb about aquarium heaters is 1 watt per liter :)
Hey mate new to this all glad I found your channel. I have a question for you . . . . Do you know if the (pair coil) i think it's called that you get when you buy a heat pump system .is the copper tubes safe and ok to use ? Both new and used pipes . I know the used stuff would of had the gas for the system running though it not sure if the copper would absorb any thing . Any help would be great cheers
repn rfb Hi, the refrigerant is not good for you and would have been slightly absorbed by the copper. There will also be some oil residue in the copper so I wouldn't go near it if I were you, nasty stuff.
Steve Hubbard what about the brand new stuff ?
As long as it hasn't had the refrigerant in it should be ok 😀
4:50 definitely use stress intentionally for some unique qualities. Check out the thread on hd and adi about intentionally stressing the yeast with heat so that the yeast produces diacetyl - a chemical that creates a butter aroma and flavor. buttery corn whiskey and butterscotch rum. White Labs discusses the timeline here: www.whitelabs.com/sites/default/files/Diacetyl_Time_Line.pdf
Im gutted in summer in the uk cant make lager
Can with the fridge......
Get over it ya alcohol scott
I don"t speak english well, can anybody help me what is the video conclucion? I have wached till the end, but still i could not get all the information
Watched this cuz I'm thinking I want to make a large-ish fermentation chamber...something that can hold a couple 6-gallon carboys at least, preferably those + a handful of 1-gallons. While this isn't the video I wanted exactly, it DID still give me some solid information. Using a PID, for one. My intention is to make a Peltier heater/cooler water cooled on a common reservoir at this point. Radiator should pull heat as well as displace cold...as long as it doesn't freeze (might use glycol instead of water for just that reason).
Hopefully PID aren't too spendy, but if they are, can use what yer using. Peltier aren't expensive and I can scrounge the rest for the most part, might need to buy a cheap chinese radiator...
Hi mate, you and me both! I have been pondering this for some time. I still have not really settled on how I want to build my chamber. Ideally it would be great to have separate heat management on each fermenter. But that gets rather pricey!
Thats pretty close to how the commercial setups do it. Check out the SS glycol system for example. The heating is easy, its the cooling thats tricky!
Right now I am kinda leaning towards using a semi portable airconditioner in a over sized insulated box. I had toyed with the idea of having the air-conditioner set a little lower. Then using individually controloed heating blankets/pads/etc on each fermenter. But that seems rather inefficient!
So when do you know when to seal the fermentation and use air locks vs keeping the containers open?
My closets 74-75 degrees Fahrenheit year round. No worries here it floats my pancake.
Hot water cupboard?
I live in a condo my place is allways the same. Central air helps I don't do anything special. Obviously my fermenters are a few degrees warmer from metabolic heat. But my hang up little thermometers all ways in the 74-75 degree area like I've allready stated. Kind of frustrating not being able to ferment things like saisons or lagers obviously on opposite ends of temp spectrum.
Not really, about $100/month give or take few $. 11 other condos in my building I get everyone elses hot/cold our building comfortable year round.
Entire energy cost.
"Yeast swinger party" lol :D
PIDs do not learn, you have to tune them yourself. Also, although you can make it workwith pure on/off signals, a PID profits a lot from an input that it can regulate
Lack of patience is a fermentor's worst friend lol
Great info in the videos sometimes but i spend most of the time fast forwarding i just to much prattle
That secret ferment looks just like a later ferment brandy mash.
It could be. . . . . But probably not. . . Hahaha
. . . . . And I have not seen a late stage Brandy fermentation. So I wouldn't know 🤔😉😆
Fair enough haha, im excited to find out!
Poor bugger. Guess you used a 50-60 gal (150W-200W) heater in a much smaller bucket eh? Unfortunately each of those damn things only work for a certain range. It can’t lower the wattage so the heat output is based on the assumption that you're heating X gallons and it's full-blast, or nothing.
I guess you'd have to buy a lower watt heater for smaller 5-10 gallon "fish tanks"… or risk killing your "fish" as you discovered. Sad times...
Yep that's exactly what happened! Haha.
Lesson learned 🤔😉
The muppets are in town...
Haha
Yeast swinger party lol
Yankee problems.
It's funny you are into controlling your temperature with thermometers etc on your wash but you don't like controlling your temperature with thermometers when distilling.
I was just going to ask about this thanks man