I seem to be having issues with my 2007cc engine. I have 44 IDF clones, big valve 042 style heads with 42mm intake valves and 37mm exhaust valves, 1.5 inch merged exhaust with matching heater boxes, CB 2240 cam shaft, 7.2 to 1 compression ratio. I have a Magna Spark distributor and matching coil. My carbs are currently running 36mm venturis and .60 idles and idles great, but has a slight bog and stumble off idle. As long as I lay on the gas and build up speed it runs fine, but when I lay off the gas pedal and try to potter around the carbs starts to pop. I've ordered .65 idle jets hoping that maybe an idle jet change will solve my issues.
The bleed is out the side of the pump jet. A "0" I believe does not have a hole in the side at all to bleed back into the bowl. The ball is still in use to let the fuel in and only lets it move in one direction. Soldering the top shut is completely wrong. You should of soldered the side hole, and you will achieve what you are trying to do. The hard start is because the fuel is not coming in at the speed that it should as with the top of the pump jet being open. You had the right idea but the holes were just the opposite of what you were thinking.
Yeah At the time of that video I was trying to figure out what that valve was doing. So to understand what it actually does I solder it fully knowing it was going to starve for fuel. But anyways.. you should watch my video Removing Hesitations for Good. (The good the bad and the ugly) It all gets summarized in that video.
The information you give is not quite right. You run on the idles up to about 55 mph give or take. Then the engine starts zipping of the main system. 60 idles are WAY too large for a 2 liter. (Even at 70 mph the engine is still partly running on the idles and zipping of the mains.) You will experience an overly rich condition on anything else than idle. That´s why you feel that it is running better. you are masking the real issue with too much fuel. I´m betting that your venturies are stock 36 mm. That is too large. A 2 stockish 2 liter type 4 should have no more than 32 mm venturies. When you decrease the venturi size you increase the signal to the aux venturi (main jet) When you do this you can back down on the idles, which should be in the 52-55 size, If you have a stumble coming on the throttle at low to medium rpms, but your general afr looks right, you can increase the pump squirt with 1 turn at the time. If you need to increase it more than approx 4 turns you need a larger acc pump jet. But I doubt that. I have never seen that need on a 2 liter, unless the exhaust system was way too large for the engine. Also, you should increase your spark capacity. A blue Bosch gives a relatively long but weak spark. You want a fast and powerfull spark, which also aids in getting rid of the off idle stumble. Hope this helps.
@@orbitaljellyfish808 The fast and easy swop is a 3 ohm Pertronix, which gives a faster and more powerfull spark that the engine has a harder time "blowing out" If you want a larger improvement you can go Pertrinx 60130 HV 60 KV coil. E core. That´s a good coil which lives up to today´s standards with spark strength. It is a common mistake to assume a carb issue for a weak ignition. It is very often both.
Alstup I probably should have just PM you about this. So the information on Jimmy's page is incorrect where it says that the idles only work up to 2300rpms and mains start working at 2200rpm and fully engage at 2500rpm is incorrect?
@@Motor7710 Yes, that is not correct. you cannot give an estimate answer to when the mains take over. It is vacum / butterfly angle determined. If you want to know for certain how far up in the cruise rpm you run on the idles you can do the simple thing of removing the main jet stack and slowly get up through the gears. When in fourth, slowly increase speed until the engine begins to bog. That´s where the mains begin to take over.
@@Motor7710 OK with the venturies. Then you may have another issue that is not readily visible. It can be both ignition, timing ,fuel and exhaust related. - I need to know more. Email me and we will figure it out.
Is that "delay" valve a normal thread pitch. So we could just screw in a bolt to block it off instead of buggering up a part
The drilling is the marked 'jet' number. Check it with your plug gauges. You need that ball bearing valve to fill the pump chamber.
I seem to be having issues with my 2007cc engine. I have 44 IDF clones, big valve 042 style heads with 42mm intake valves and 37mm exhaust valves, 1.5 inch merged exhaust with matching heater boxes, CB 2240 cam shaft, 7.2 to 1 compression ratio. I have a Magna Spark distributor and matching coil. My carbs are currently running 36mm venturis and .60 idles and idles great, but has a slight bog and stumble off idle. As long as I lay on the gas and build up speed it runs fine, but when I lay off the gas pedal and try to potter around the carbs starts to pop. I've ordered .65 idle jets hoping that maybe an idle jet change will solve my issues.
Are you going to do a part 2, of this video? With the information you got from Torben?
Yessss😁
@@Motor7710
Awesome. 👍
At mine it was to small LLD 55or bigger everythings works great at spotan fullthrottel below 2200 RPM and CO screw a bit more in in idle.
The bleed is out the side of the pump jet. A "0" I believe does not have a hole in the side at all to bleed back into the bowl. The ball is still in use to let the fuel in and only lets it move in one direction. Soldering the top shut is completely wrong. You should of soldered the side hole, and you will achieve what you are trying to do. The hard start is because the fuel is not coming in at the speed that it should as with the top of the pump jet being open. You had the right idea but the holes were just the opposite of what you were thinking.
Yeah
At the time of that video I was trying to figure out what that valve was doing. So to understand what it actually does I solder it fully knowing it was going to starve for fuel.
But anyways.. you should watch my video Removing Hesitations for Good. (The good the bad and the ugly) It all gets summarized in that video.
The information you give is not quite right. You run on the idles up to about 55 mph give or take. Then the engine starts zipping of the main system. 60 idles are WAY too large for a 2 liter. (Even at 70 mph the engine is still partly running on the idles and zipping of the mains.) You will experience an overly rich condition on anything else than idle. That´s why you feel that it is running better. you are masking the real issue with too much fuel. I´m betting that your venturies are stock 36 mm. That is too large. A 2 stockish 2 liter type 4 should have no more than 32 mm venturies. When you decrease the venturi size you increase the signal to the aux venturi (main jet) When you do this you can back down on the idles, which should be in the 52-55 size, If you have a stumble coming on the throttle at low to medium rpms, but your general afr looks right, you can increase the pump squirt with 1 turn at the time. If you need to increase it more than approx 4 turns you need a larger acc pump jet. But I doubt that. I have never seen that need on a 2 liter, unless the exhaust system was way too large for the engine.
Also, you should increase your spark capacity. A blue Bosch gives a relatively long but weak spark. You want a fast and powerfull spark, which also aids in getting rid of the off idle stumble.
Hope this helps.
@@orbitaljellyfish808 The fast and easy swop is a 3 ohm Pertronix, which gives a faster and more powerfull spark that the engine has a harder time "blowing out" If you want a larger improvement you can go Pertrinx 60130 HV 60 KV coil. E core. That´s a good coil which lives up to today´s standards with spark strength.
It is a common mistake to assume a carb issue for a weak ignition. It is very often both.
Alstup
I probably should have just PM you about this. So the information on Jimmy's page is incorrect where it says that the idles only work up to 2300rpms and mains start working at 2200rpm and fully engage at 2500rpm is incorrect?
Alstup there 32mm venturi
@@Motor7710 Yes, that is not correct. you cannot give an estimate answer to when the mains take over. It is vacum / butterfly angle determined. If you want to know for certain how far up in the cruise rpm you run on the idles you can do the simple thing of removing the main jet stack and slowly get up through the gears. When in fourth, slowly increase speed until the engine begins to bog. That´s where the mains begin to take over.
@@Motor7710 OK with the venturies. Then you may have another issue that is not readily visible. It can be both ignition, timing ,fuel and exhaust related. - I need to know more. Email me and we will figure it out.