Well damn!!! I think I know why my saw will crank but won't run but about 3 - 5 seconds now. I ran a a very small wire through all the passages. Lmao!!! I'm a four stroke guy. Very little experience with 2 stokes but I'm learning thanks to great people like you that love to share their knowledge & wisdom. Thanks!!!!
@@SmallEngineRepair Yeah, I just bought one off Amazon for like $19 and it had the filter, gaskets, fuel line, spark plug, air filter, and even one of those splined screwdrivers
Good job on the video, keep them coming. Most people don't realize they're far better off cleaning the carb that came with the machine, instead of buying some cheap kit that almost always has some junk carb, the wrong size fuel line, and the wrong spark plug.
By the way, on models that have the dual-port Milbro carb, there is a problem with hot starts, or failure to re-start the engine when the engine is hot. To fix that problem, drill 8 1/4" holes in the top portion of the plastic air filter cover. Lets lots more air into the carb, especially to the top inlet port, and also cures the hot start problem.
Got a question for you I fix lots of small engines and this particular chainsaw is the only one that has ever really got me stumped. I have a brand new carburetor on the unit along with brand new fuel lines I changed every single one of them and I have confirmed the routing of them is proper there’s also a new fuel filter. The spark plug has been changed and I’ve got good spark when I pull the spark plug out of the top of the engine and pull the string although I cannot get this unit to fire it will not even give me one turnover
Sometimes the compression will be too low to get the thing to hit even if you do replace all of the other components. If you've got a compression tester I'd start there. If it has over 100psi then something else is probably going on.
Great video, thank you!! (lol @ the 'i'll show you it starts & that I know what I'm doing" line, heh it was BEYOND CLEAR that you're more than qualified here hell I'd never even heard of the internal carb diaphragms, thank you so much!) What does have me curious though is your fuel-line gauge, you're using a FAR bigger line than I've ever seen used (yet you know what you're doing, and I was contemplating / hoping larger lines could be used!), am restoring an older 33cc poulan (1977 XXV top-handle) and bought a fuel-line assortment pack, the biggest line in the thing has an ID/inner diameter of 6/64th's compared to the 8/64th's you're using - you're using 1/3 fatter ID! - also interesting that the outer-diameter/OD is a literal doubling of the ID, that is a thick line, the thickest / biggest line in my assorted-lines-pack is 13/64OD compared to your 16/64th(1/4") OD, this time a 25% increase over the fattest I've got - if you do reply to comments I would love to hear any & everything you're willing to share on that because, in rebuilding the XXV (and in my repeated overhauls/tunings of my pp4218 and my Wood Shark models), one thing my mind keeps going back to is "get a higher-capacity carburetor *but*, in any & all cases, ensure that your fuel-lines can NEVER be a hindrance / choke-point in the flow of the system", hell I'm actually picturing a 'mod' wherein I get a T-adapter for my fuel-lines so that, in my fuel-tank, I can run *2* fuel-filters that just meet-up an inch or two from each other with a T adapter/connector to feed the single outgoing fuel-line, effectively doubling the surface-area of fuel-pull when that line sucks - but if the line is thin then that's the choke-point and the only benefit I get from 2 filters is, I guess, that filter-plugging will take far longer to become a problem since I've still got twice the surface area of filter, but TBH I'm picturing a scenario wherein, after slightly 'hot-rodding' a unit, I'm tuning it at WOT, tilting my H screw back&forth, knowing that my two filters & over-sized fuel line are *allowing* a higher RPM max than otherwise-achievable! I'm using a tachometer FWIW and am aware that one tunes a saw's max-RPM to be a bit below, rather than at-all above, the allowed/spec - I'm guessing there's exceptions/manipulations of this rule but so far I don't know them so just planning to err towards lower whenever unsure! Again, thank you so much for posting this, I watch a lot of these and frankly you did an outstanding, well above average job of showing / explaining your process here, thank you. Hope to hear from you on the lines but obviously can't expect anything, am happy to have this video in any event :)
Hey Derek, I try to reply to all the comments I can if there's a question. The line I used on this saw was definitely thicker than average. I have a spool of this line that gets used on very rare occasions. I wasn't trying to increase fuel flow it just happened to be the size line I needed to fill the hole going into the tank. Some grommets are bad about leaking around the fuel line where it goes in. For some reason different manufacturers can't get together on a single size. I carry 3 different sizes at my shop. I can get you part numbers if you like.
Too much time with that cheap part ! Just buy one and save your time ! Now you found problem and need parts , gaskets ect… time is money 2hrs labor for 15$ part!
Enjoy your video work. My poulan 3416 very difficult to pull starter cord. Thought it was a flooding issue( Hydro lock). With spark plug removed smooth pulling with no binding. I dried the plug and inside cylinder with compressed air, and removed the carb. I did this to see if it was a flooding issue. Did not correct the to high compression making it extremely difficult to pull the cord. Opened the carb, cleaned and inspected all the parts, and metering lever for correct height. It has spark, and have had it running, but after stalling will have great difficulty to restart. I'm stumped and do not know how to proceed. Your advice would be appreciated!!
I've had plenty of saws that are flooding get gas below the piston. With the plug out they will pull over fine, with the plug in as the piston goes down it creates too much pressure and it really hard to pull over. Try taking the muffler off and watching as the piston goes up and when you can see the bottom of the piston, tip the saw upside down to see if anything comes out.
@@SmallEngineRepair Thank you so much for your reply, and the advice. Will take the muffler off and inspect for flooding below the piston, and get back to you with the inspection. You are truly an asset to us youtube students!
I had the EXACT same problem with my 3416 after going through and replacing everything. It wants to run but I cannot pull it through fast enough and it fires before top center and yanks the rope right out of my hand. I tried for a week until it felt like my arm was gonna fall off. I'm nearly 70 years old so my solution was to buy a Dewalt 20v electric chainsaw. Don't shake your head that little sucker is pretty bad ass. I'll never go back.
hey SES, just bought one of these puppies from a guy who left it over a couple years with bad/old fuel....wouldn't run. I drained the fuel out of it and put good mixed gas in (40:1). I took the carb off and cleaned the intake ports, screen filter and the needle spring valve. the little screw holding it on had orange colored crud on it (rust I guess). I used a toothbrush to clean it as best I could. the spring flange was moving and the needle it opens appeared to be moving freely. used carb cleaner to clean it off thoroughly. put it back together. and primer bulb is taking fuel into the carb so that mechanism is working but it's not getting enough fuel to keep running. just starts for a sec or two but won't take the throttle. any ideas??
Buy a new carb off Ebay. But if you're determined to get it running with that carb, take the tuning needles out and spray through them. Just remember to turn the needles in to seat and count the turns first so you can set them back the same.
@@SmallEngineRepair got her up and running. just leaving it for 30 minutes after I had cleaned it out did the trick. running the carb cleaner thru loosened up the remaining crud I think it did the trick.
the 2 black tipped needle bolts for Low and High speed jets are usually set to what? is there a standard value to go with? I'm assuming that the silver phillips head screw is for the engine idle speed...correct?
@Hank Bridges thx. I got it running real good now. putting 2 holes in the plastic shroud over the carb was key. Also, the plug wire was loose at the spark plug when it ran it jiggled loose and caused it to quit. took the boot off, stripped the wire back a bit and soldered the wire to the metal clip. works great.
I came here to HOPEFULLY see how to get the fuel line IN and that's the very damn part you LEFT OUT!!! I have this same exact POS chainsaw. I'll NEVER buy another Poulan product. THEY SUCK!!
Get the CORRECT SIZE LINE, 3.5mm O.D. X 2.0mm I.D. All 3 lines are the same size ! The tank hole is 3.0mm, if you got a cheap kit with line, it's probably 5.0mm O.D. line and it will NEVER FIT !! Cut a 45 angle on one end, lubricate the fuel line with a little light oil, slip it through the tank hole. If you have the correct size line, you can push it into the tank enough to reach into the tank from the cap hole and pull the fuel line the rest of the way down. Cut the end of the line flush/straight, attach the fuel filter, you should have the filter on the line and out the filler cap hole, with about 2" of free fuel line. Put the filter into the tank, loosely mount the carb and size the line to connect to the fuel inlet port on the right side of the carb. It's smart to change all 3 lines at one time, save having to do it all again for a different line. The line from the carb to the purge bulb is on the left side of the carb, and it goes down to the top/short inlet port of the bulb (most bulbs say 'in' on the short inlet port). The return line goes from the bottom outlet port of the purge bulb to the tank return port, right side of tank. Same tank hole size, 3mm, same process to inset line, but pull line out the fuel cap hole, connect the plastic retainer at the end of the line, then pull line back into tank until the retainer just barely touches the inside of the tank at the hole. Then size the line to connect to the purge bulb (usually the longer port, on the bottom of the bulb). It's actually easier to do it than say it. The biggest problem people have is that they end up with the wrong size fuel line, then try using fishing line, string, etc to get the big line into a small hole, and that's a major hassle where 98% of the complaints come from ! Get the right size line and it becomes a fairly easy process !!! And whatever you do, don't even THINK about drilling out the tank holes to get bigger line into the tank. If you do this, you have just scrapped the saw because all interference fits have just been lost, fuel vapors and raw fuel will leak out of the tank, and you' re screwed !!!
Nice video
Well damn!!! I think I know why my saw will crank but won't run but about 3 - 5 seconds now. I ran a a very small wire through all the passages. Lmao!!! I'm a four stroke guy. Very little experience with 2 stokes but I'm learning thanks to great people like you that love to share their knowledge & wisdom. Thanks!!!!
Carbs are so cheap for these saws on Ebay that I would just order a new one and not worry about it.
@@SmallEngineRepair Yeah, I just bought one off Amazon for like $19 and it had the filter, gaskets, fuel line, spark plug, air filter, and even one of those splined screwdrivers
Great video. Very clear instructions, exactly what I was looking for. Thanks!
Thanks for watching. Please subscribe!
thank you so much for this. it was super helpful, and I worked on it with my daughter.
You're welcome. I've always wanted to teach a class for parents and kids together
maybe do next one in some better light
Good job on the video, keep them coming. Most people don't realize they're far better off cleaning the carb that came with the machine, instead of buying some cheap kit that almost always has some junk carb, the wrong size fuel line, and the wrong spark plug.
My filter did the same thing inside the tank thanks I know what's wrong I have crap inside my carb thank u
So helpful. Thanks for posting this video.
By the way, on models that have the dual-port Milbro carb, there is a problem with hot starts, or failure to re-start the engine when the engine is hot. To fix that problem, drill 8 1/4" holes in the top portion of the plastic air filter cover. Lets lots more air into the carb, especially to the top inlet port, and also cures the hot start problem.
Loved the cat disruption. At least Im not the only one who deals with that.
He's an outside cat that we found in a dumpster so anytime we go outside he wants to be around us. Very grateful cat.
How can I tell what model I have . Just says POULAN clean . Do you where model number is?
The number on the pull rope cover will work for the model number.
very helpful video. thank you!
Got a question for you I fix lots of small engines and this particular chainsaw is the only one that has ever really got me stumped. I have a brand new carburetor on the unit along with brand new fuel lines I changed every single one of them and I have confirmed the routing of them is proper there’s also a new fuel filter. The spark plug has been changed and I’ve got good spark when I pull the spark plug out of the top of the engine and pull the string although I cannot get this unit to fire it will not even give me one turnover
Sometimes the compression will be too low to get the thing to hit even if you do replace all of the other components. If you've got a compression tester I'd start there. If it has over 100psi then something else is probably going on.
Thanks very much
Great video, thank you!! (lol @ the 'i'll show you it starts & that I know what I'm doing" line, heh it was BEYOND CLEAR that you're more than qualified here hell I'd never even heard of the internal carb diaphragms, thank you so much!) What does have me curious though is your fuel-line gauge, you're using a FAR bigger line than I've ever seen used (yet you know what you're doing, and I was contemplating / hoping larger lines could be used!), am restoring an older 33cc poulan (1977 XXV top-handle) and bought a fuel-line assortment pack, the biggest line in the thing has an ID/inner diameter of 6/64th's compared to the 8/64th's you're using - you're using 1/3 fatter ID! - also interesting that the outer-diameter/OD is a literal doubling of the ID, that is a thick line, the thickest / biggest line in my assorted-lines-pack is 13/64OD compared to your 16/64th(1/4") OD, this time a 25% increase over the fattest I've got - if you do reply to comments I would love to hear any & everything you're willing to share on that because, in rebuilding the XXV (and in my repeated overhauls/tunings of my pp4218 and my Wood Shark models), one thing my mind keeps going back to is "get a higher-capacity carburetor *but*, in any & all cases, ensure that your fuel-lines can NEVER be a hindrance / choke-point in the flow of the system", hell I'm actually picturing a 'mod' wherein I get a T-adapter for my fuel-lines so that, in my fuel-tank, I can run *2* fuel-filters that just meet-up an inch or two from each other with a T adapter/connector to feed the single outgoing fuel-line, effectively doubling the surface-area of fuel-pull when that line sucks - but if the line is thin then that's the choke-point and the only benefit I get from 2 filters is, I guess, that filter-plugging will take far longer to become a problem since I've still got twice the surface area of filter, but TBH I'm picturing a scenario wherein, after slightly 'hot-rodding' a unit, I'm tuning it at WOT, tilting my H screw back&forth, knowing that my two filters & over-sized fuel line are *allowing* a higher RPM max than otherwise-achievable! I'm using a tachometer FWIW and am aware that one tunes a saw's max-RPM to be a bit below, rather than at-all above, the allowed/spec - I'm guessing there's exceptions/manipulations of this rule but so far I don't know them so just planning to err towards lower whenever unsure!
Again, thank you so much for posting this, I watch a lot of these and frankly you did an outstanding, well above average job of showing / explaining your process here, thank you. Hope to hear from you on the lines but obviously can't expect anything, am happy to have this video in any event :)
Hey Derek, I try to reply to all the comments I can if there's a question. The line I used on this saw was definitely thicker than average. I have a spool of this line that gets used on very rare occasions. I wasn't trying to increase fuel flow it just happened to be the size line I needed to fill the hole going into the tank. Some grommets are bad about leaking around the fuel line where it goes in. For some reason different manufacturers can't get together on a single size. I carry 3 different sizes at my shop. I can get you part numbers if you like.
Great video. thanks.
Good job
Too much time with that cheap part ! Just buy one and save your time ! Now you found problem and need parts , gaskets ect… time is money 2hrs labor for 15$ part!
Enjoy your video work. My poulan 3416 very difficult to pull starter cord. Thought it was a flooding issue( Hydro lock). With spark plug removed smooth pulling with no binding. I dried the plug and inside cylinder with compressed air, and removed the carb. I did this to see if it was a flooding issue. Did not correct the to high compression making it extremely difficult to pull the cord. Opened the carb, cleaned and inspected all the parts, and metering lever for correct height. It has spark, and have had it running, but after stalling will have great difficulty to restart. I'm stumped and do not know how to proceed. Your advice would be appreciated!!
I've had plenty of saws that are flooding get gas below the piston. With the plug out they will pull over fine, with the plug in as the piston goes down it creates too much pressure and it really hard to pull over. Try taking the muffler off and watching as the piston goes up and when you can see the bottom of the piston, tip the saw upside down to see if anything comes out.
@@SmallEngineRepair Thank you so much for your reply, and the advice. Will take the muffler off and inspect for flooding below the piston, and get back to you with the inspection. You are truly an asset to us youtube students!
I had the EXACT same problem with my 3416 after going through and replacing everything. It wants to run but I cannot pull it through fast enough and it fires before top center and yanks the rope right out of my hand. I tried for a week until it felt like my arm was gonna fall off. I'm nearly 70 years old so my solution was to buy a Dewalt 20v electric chainsaw. Don't shake your head that little sucker is pretty bad ass. I'll never go back.
hey SES, just bought one of these puppies from a guy who left it over a couple years with bad/old fuel....wouldn't run. I drained the fuel out of it and put good mixed gas in (40:1). I took the carb off and cleaned the intake ports, screen filter and the needle spring valve. the little screw holding it on had orange colored crud on it (rust I guess). I used a toothbrush to clean it as best I could. the spring flange was moving and the needle it opens appeared to be moving freely. used carb cleaner to clean it off thoroughly. put it back together. and primer bulb is taking fuel into the carb so that mechanism is working but it's not getting enough fuel to keep running. just starts for a sec or two but won't take the throttle. any ideas??
Buy a new carb off Ebay. But if you're determined to get it running with that carb, take the tuning needles out and spray through them. Just remember to turn the needles in to seat and count the turns first so you can set them back the same.
@@SmallEngineRepair cool. will try that. thx :)
@@SmallEngineRepair got her up and running. just leaving it for 30 minutes after I had cleaned it out did the trick. running the carb cleaner thru loosened up the remaining crud I think it did the trick.
the 2 black tipped needle bolts for Low and High speed jets are usually set to what? is there a standard value to go with? I'm assuming that the silver phillips head screw is for the engine idle speed...correct?
Most are 1.5 turns out. Silver Phillip's is idle speed.
@Hank Bridges thx. I got it running real good now. putting 2 holes in the plastic shroud over the carb was key. Also, the plug wire was loose at the spark plug when it ran it jiggled loose and caused it to quit. took the boot off, stripped the wire back a bit and soldered the wire to the metal clip. works great.
My problem is the primer won't suck gas. Any solutions?
Usually won't prime when the carb is stopped up. Just order an eBay carb.
like that kitty cat!!!!
cute kitty was like a bonus!
I have a Craftsman 4214 😝
I came here to HOPEFULLY see how to get the fuel line IN and that's the very damn part you LEFT OUT!!! I have this same exact POS chainsaw. I'll NEVER buy another Poulan product. THEY SUCK!!
Get the CORRECT SIZE LINE, 3.5mm O.D. X 2.0mm I.D. All 3 lines are the same size ! The tank hole is 3.0mm, if you got a cheap kit with line, it's probably 5.0mm O.D. line and it will NEVER FIT !! Cut a 45 angle on one end, lubricate the fuel line with a little light oil, slip it through the tank hole. If you have the correct size line, you can push it into the tank enough to reach into the tank from the cap hole and pull the fuel line the rest of the way down. Cut the end of the line flush/straight, attach the fuel filter, you should have the filter on the line and out the filler cap hole, with about 2" of free fuel line. Put the filter into the tank, loosely mount the carb and size the line to connect to the fuel inlet port on the right side of the carb.
It's smart to change all 3 lines at one time, save having to do it all again for a different line.
The line from the carb to the purge bulb is on the left side of the carb, and it goes down to the top/short inlet port of the bulb (most bulbs say 'in' on the short inlet port).
The return line goes from the bottom outlet port of the purge bulb to the tank return port, right side of tank. Same tank hole size, 3mm, same process to inset line, but pull line out the fuel cap hole, connect the plastic retainer at the end of the line, then pull line back into tank until the retainer just barely touches the inside of the tank at the hole. Then size the line to connect to the purge bulb (usually the longer port, on the bottom of the bulb).
It's actually easier to do it than say it.
The biggest problem people have is that they end up with the wrong size fuel line, then try using fishing line, string, etc to get the big line into a small hole, and that's a major hassle where 98% of the complaints come from !
Get the right size line and it becomes a fairly easy process !!!
And whatever you do, don't even THINK about drilling out the tank holes to get bigger line into the tank. If you do this, you have just scrapped the saw because all interference fits have just been lost, fuel vapors and raw fuel will leak out of the tank, and you' re screwed !!!
@