Amazing, just tried this as a different cast on for my hats and absolutely love it. The instructions are clear and the best part was fixing the jog - seamless! Just wow. Thank you sharing.
Thank you so much, Janet! It’s my favourite too. If you like you can check a Cast-ons play list I have on the channel - you can do 1x1, 2x2 and 3x3 ribs with this cast-on. :)
I ve watched all your videos and bc I'm a beginner in knitting (which i started loving it lately) i must say that you are easy to follow as you explain every detail so professionally for the best result in our garment and i m very happy that i found you. Looking forward for your next videos
First time I tried this, for a hat with 130+ stitches, I found it very hard to count the stitches once they were off the needle and onto the 'cord', and after two tries I eventually put a marker every 10 stitches! The second time when I was making gloves to go with the hat, and using four needles not a circular, I found it easy to count when all the stitches were on one solid needle. In future, I will cast the stitches onto a long needle and work them off onto the circular as I do the first row. Apart from that, it is a lovely cast on method.
These are great knitting tips, Jacquie! Using the markers for the long cast on rows is so much easier than to have to count many stitches several times to double check. Casting onto a long straight needle is a very helpful idea too!
I notice that the hat you show at the beginning of the video has beautiful, neat decreases in the 1X1 rib. Could you possibly do a video on how to do decreases for 1X1 ribbed hat?
Thank you! I show and explain it in the hat video that I have in my playlist "Knitting Patterns" - "The Northern Taurids Hat” - the inside out hat knitting. Please check it out. :)
Follow up comment/question, Irina. I used this cast on in my cuff down lace and cable socks and the cast on came out great. Unfortunately, my sock was just too snug even having gone up a needle size from the start (I did not work the heel flap yet so I just treated the cuff like a generous gauge swatch.) Now I will start again going up two needle sizes. In the meantime, I have been enjoying a thorough review of your excellent jogless series (I could not initially remember which of your videos I had followed). So one question arises that I would like to ask about before my do-over. In one of your jogless tubular cast on videos you mentioned using a smaller needle size to combat flare of the tubular cast on, then going up a needle size for the ribbing. In the case of the Italian cast on here, there does not appear to be a tubular portion, so does that needle size advice apply here? Or could I cast on with the same needle size I would work the ribbing and the sock with (in other words, no tendency to flare for the Italian cast on?). In my too-snug sock, the twisted rib cuff was not the culprit. It was the cable portion (the shin face of the sock is a lovely Japanese lace pattern and the calf face of the sock is a deeply cabled pattern with twisted stitches and I think that is what caused the fabric to suck in)..So now that I have a fresh chance to proceed with best practices for best outcome, I would love to hear your thoughts about whether I would need to take cast on needle size, vs twisted rib needle size, into account if I would like everything to look maximally even and avoid flare if that tendency is part of the Italian cast on similar to the tubular cast on. Hope I explained this clearly enough. Thank you so much! --Andrea Miller
Hi Andrea, usually for a simple/non-tubular Italian c/o I use the same needle size as for the rest of the ribbing. I cast-on snugly and don’t get any flair. But everyone’s hands are different, so for some using a smaller size for c/o helps to avoid the flare. What I usually do if I am not sure about the needle sizes, I make a swatch of the ribbing separately and a swatch of the main pattern separately. Then place them side by side and compare how many stitches of each I have per centimetre. Then I will know if I need to increase or decrease the number of stitches when I change from the ribbing to the main pattern. Also, in my experience both twisted stitches and cables do "shrink" the fabric. I hope I understood correctly your question. :)
@@irinarevo perfectly understood and perfect response and guidance. I cannot express enough how inspired and delighted I am with your tips. They are turning my work into such a polished result I am prouder than ever to create and wear ❤️
Thank you so much Irina for this wonderful video. So many of the patterns have k1, p1 ribbing instead of p1, k1 ribbing. Would you be able to create a version for that option? Or, should I just follow this and move the beginning of the round later?
Thank you, Joseph! You can follow the way it is done in the video and later move the beginning of the round by one stitch. The connection is a circle is invisible (I show it in the video), so 1 stitch more (or less) will not matter. :)
@@irinarevo Thank you so much! I just finished making your Northern Taurids hat pattern with my fingering yarn scraps held double, and everyone wanted this hat. I have confidence in my tubular cast on now, thanks to you. Sim Kellner.
En España no entendemos bastante inglés para seguí todas las indicaciones. Antes salía un traductor, pero ahora no. Por favor arreglen ésto. Gracias, gracias. Me gusta tu trabajo.
Hello Anamaria! There is a button in the right upper corner of the video that looks like a spiky circle. If you press on it you can choose the captions in another language (other than English). This auto-translate is a function provided by RUclips. I don’t know if it is available in Spanish. It’s up to RUclips to provide captions in other languages. Unfortunately I don’t speak Spanish. You can also change the viewing speed and just follow the steps in the video, the talk is not too important as the picture shows all the steps. :)
Thanks! I have returned to this excellent video as I am now ready to start the cuff of the 2nd sock of my lace sock pair (the first sock was beautified by your tutelage!). Two questions: in the first worked row before joining in the round where you work into the back loop of each knit stitch, is it ONLY the knit stitches in that row that you work into the back of (excepting the final one which you work as a regular knit stich) or are the purls also worked through the back loop? It did not look like it but I wanted to be sure. Next, when you fix the jog, how do you recommend weaving in the end at that point? In the usual way where you would spiral the end through one of the legs of the stitches of the adjacent knit column (like with any ribbing) or is it done differently? I will actually be working twisted ribbing for my cuff so I was checking on your thoughts. (I finished my first lace sock 4 months ago and I have forgotten how I did it). Thanks again!
Thank you so much Andrea for your support! In the first row (unlike the regular rows when the knit stitches are facing left) the knit stitches are facing right. Or in other words, the front side of the knit stitches is turned right. So to avoid twisting them, just for the first row, I have to insert the right needle tip from right to left. I would not call this through the back loop, it’s still through the front of the stitches. The purls are worked as usual. The last knit stitch I work from left to right to twist it to get a sharp edge and jogless joining later. For the twisted rib I did the weaving by splitting first the yarn tail into two finer strands (unless it’s mohair or similar yarn that you can’t split). Then either spiral, but along two different columns - this will prevent the columns from becoming too thick. Or, there is another way - "outlining" the twisted rib stitches. You basically follow the twist and alternate weaving it on the right and wrong sides of your rib, but sideways (not up the column). I am actually getting a video ready about it. This other way is going to be invisible and especially great for the stripes when you can’t go up the column because the colours of the stripes won’t match the colour of the yarn tail and it will show.
@@irinarevo Much better stated, Irina, I am now understanding from you that the mount of the created knit stitches for the first row is with the leading leg in front, so it makes sense that they would be worked in the first row alone by knitting into the leading leg (which looks like knitting through the back loop in practice) except for wishing to twist that very last knit stitch for the sharp corner, so that very stitch alone on the first row is knit into the trailing leg (which in practice look like knitting it the "ordinary" way left to right). And now I understand that the purl stitches created in the cast on already are mounted with the leading leg in front so they are worked as usual in the first row and in every further row during this cast on. I am excited about your upcoming video about weaving in ends in twisted rib. You are really making my knitting shine!
I was pointed here by you when I was inquiring about how to work this kind of cast on for twisted 1x1 rib - and now I understand why this is such an excellent choice for sock cuffs, not as bulky as a tubular cast on could be since it does not appear to be double knit, but it still has that beautiful "infinite" edge that looks like it rolls over from the outside to the inside. I am left now with just two questions: 1) How long of a tail do I need to leave with this cast on - it looks like it does consume the tail yarn like a long tail cast on would and 2) if the first row is worked flat and not joined in the round till after it is worked, is it only at the end, with the weaving in, that the gap area is seamed up? Is that the jog that you are fixing? And are the steps to fix the jog the same if the ribbing was worked twisted (because the twist does not start until after the cast on is joined in the round)?
Hi Andrea, I am very glad you like this method! 1) To c/o - wrap the yarn tail around the needle as many times as the number of stitches that you will c/o + 10cm, 2) because you start twisting the stitches from the second row where you connect in the round, the c/o and first row (the flat one) are exactly the same as in the video, and the jog fixing steps are also the same. You can do the jog fixing at any time - as soon as you worked 3-4 twisted rounds, or (you will just see it better, I think) after finished the rib, or after finished the sock 🧦
@@irinarevo I appreciate you so much - I am sitting here with yarn and 9" circ needle (with alternative DPNs) in hand to try this today. I am so excited to learn something new! I am a Western thrower but I can easily adapt your instructions for Continental for being a right hand yarn operator. I can't wait for the beauty about to unfold! ❤
BTW, I actually have a video for DPNs too: ITALIAN CAST ON for rib 1x1 with DPNs - NEW completely JOGLESS joining in the Round. ruclips.net/video/eTjX_StgL0A/видео.html
@@irinarevo so I have succeeded beautifully to attain the Italian cast on (with zero tubular rounds) working a twisted rib for my sock cuff. But I am discovering that my twisted rib lacks stretch (which could just be how I am working it or maybe that is the nature of twisted rib). I chose this based on the sock designer's suggestion and do know I could simply make a different choice. If I wanted to retain the twisted rib, would a tubular cast on worked in twisted rib (stating the twists after completing the tubular rounds as normal) be more stretchy that the Italian cast on followed by twisting the knits and purling the purls as usual. All ribbing is 1 x 1 here. Still not ready to give up on twisted rib yet but I know I would like my cast on stretchier than it is turning out
I am so glad you liked it, Monique! The pattern is in this video: How to knit a HAT: "Northern Taurids" - an "inside out" unisex style ribbed hat. EASY, Step by step. ruclips.net/video/YuuAfABALCs/видео.html
You can check out this video: How to measure length of yarn for casting on ruclips.net/video/TPvYLoyaqt0/видео.html Wrap the yarn tail around the needle as many times as the # of cast-on stitches + 10cm. For a larger # I wrap half of the # of stitches, double up that length + 10cm.
Hi, the number of stitches depends on the pattern, the yarn thickness, needle size, gauge, etc. This video is only about the cast-on method. If you are asking about making the hat shown in this video, please check this video (all the step-by-step instructions about making this hat are there): ruclips.net/video/YuuAfABALCs/видео.html
Hello, I just want to know if I start the cast on with a purl stitch first and then knit stitch will it give me the same result? Or is it gonna be completely different?
The first "knot" - it is a purl stitch (but it is made without a knot - by twisting the yarn around the needle). It is followed by a knit stitch. Then continue to alternate purl and knit stitches as you cast on. And the last stitch to cast on is a knit stitch. :)
@@irinarevo Ohhh ok so that first knot is considered a purl stitch. I was following your other video of the italian tubular cast on and realized that I was watching the wrong video cuz i was trying to knit a beanie, is it ok if I keep the cast on row from that video and keep knitting the beanie with this video?
Yes, of course! You can use any cast-on technique you like - only the cast on edge will look different. Tubular is very nice and the difference is minimal. It will not affect the rest of the hat. To me the regular Italian is better for a tight fitting turtleneck for example as it is very stretchy - to get the head through. For a beanie it is not critical - so either one is good.
Is this cast on really tubular? I watched your other video for the tubular 2x2 cast on and there was 2 setup rounds slipping every second stitch and then doing it again.
In the description under the video I specified that it is an Italian tubular cast on, but with "0" tubular rows. Tubular rows (or the double knitting) can be added after casting on, if desired, usually 2 or 4 rounds. Then continue the rib 1x1 - same as in the 2x2 video, but without swapping the stitches. Most of the time I just skip the tubular rounds and go directly to the rib - I just like the minimalistic look of the edge. :)
Check out here: Top Down PERFECT RIBBING - no gathering, no baggy stitches or flared edge (knitting tips and tricks) ruclips.net/video/WStYDMl8XAc/видео.html
![[KnitFreedom] Italian Cast-On in the round - Perfect Invisible 1x1 Rib Cast-On](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/9T0TsGMhG3c/mqdefault.jpg)
Thanks!
Worth even more. Thank you so much.
Thank you so much! Your support is greatly appreciated!
Amazing, just tried this as a different cast on for my hats and absolutely love it. The instructions are clear and the best part was fixing the jog - seamless! Just wow. Thank you sharing.
Thank you so much for your feedback! I am very glad you liked it!
I've already watched this video twice. You're great at teaching. Thank you
Thank you very much!
I will practice this, it will be the only way I cast on for 1X1 ribbing from now on. This hat is stunning!!
Thank you so much, Janet! It’s my favourite too. If you like you can check a Cast-ons play list I have on the channel - you can do 1x1, 2x2 and 3x3 ribs with this cast-on. :)
Very helpfull and explained and shown in a way that will not easily be forgotten. Start with a purlstitch and end with a knitstitch when casting on!
Thank you!
Thank you again for such clear illustrations. I learned so much from you.
My pleasure, Pauline!
I have never seen a cast on like this. Amazing! Thanks so much for this video.
I am so glad you liked it, Catherine!
I ve watched all your videos and bc I'm a beginner in knitting (which i started loving it lately) i must say that you are easy to follow as you explain every detail so professionally for the best result in our garment and i m very happy that i found you. Looking forward for your next videos
Thank you very much for your kind feedback! I am very happy that you like the videos :)
You teach in a very clear way. Thanks for sharing your skills. Greetings from Sao Paulo Brazil
Thank you very much! Hello from Toronto!
Thank you for taking the time to share these knitting videos. very helpful and easy to follow
You are very welcome! I am very glad that the steps in the video are easy to follow!
Brava Irina, i tuoi tutorials sono molto ben fatti. Grazie.
Mi iscrivo.
Grazie!
Best explanation on RUclips !
Thank you so much!
Loved, loved, your instructions. Thank you kindly.
My pleasure!
First time I tried this, for a hat with 130+ stitches, I found it very hard to count the stitches once they were off the needle and onto the 'cord', and after two tries I eventually put a marker every 10 stitches! The second time when I was making gloves to go with the hat, and using four needles not a circular, I found it easy to count when all the stitches were on one solid needle. In future, I will cast the stitches onto a long needle and work them off onto the circular as I do the first row. Apart from that, it is a lovely cast on method.
These are great knitting tips, Jacquie! Using the markers for the long cast on rows is so much easier than to have to count many stitches several times to double check. Casting onto a long straight needle is a very helpful idea too!
Your creations look beautiful! Love this tuque.
Thank you so much, Aisha! Happy to see you on my channel! :)
Loved watching you knit! Continue as I am revisiting a craft I’ve frequented sometime ago.
Thank you very much!
I notice that the hat you show at the beginning of the video has beautiful, neat decreases in the 1X1 rib. Could you possibly do a video on how to do decreases for 1X1 ribbed hat?
Thank you! I show and explain it in the hat video that I have in my playlist "Knitting Patterns" - "The Northern Taurids Hat” - the inside out hat knitting. Please check it out. :)
You’re an amazing teacher - succinct but descriptive, and easy to follow! I can’t wait to try this for my socks! You gained a new subscriber today!
Thank you so much! Have fun with the socks!
So beautiful, thnx for sharing video, will try it
Thank you!
Thank you. It's easy to follow and play back.
Thank you so much for your feedback!
Clear and on point❤
Thank you!!😊
Nice video)) beautiful work👍2👍🔔😍
Thank you very much
Great tutorial, Irina!
Thank you, Irina!
Thanks again🌷 Merry Christmas🌲🎄💐
Thank you! Merry Christmas to you too! 🎄☃️
Thank you so much for this wonderful tutorial❤️
Thank you very much!
Thank you very much for this! NICE!!!
Thank you!
Thank you. Subscribed.
Very very clear Thankyou
Thank you very much!
Fantástico!!!! I'll use it Thanks
Thank you so much! Have a great time knitting!
Follow up comment/question, Irina. I used this cast on in my cuff down lace and cable socks and the cast on came out great. Unfortunately, my sock was just too snug even having gone up a needle size from the start (I did not work the heel flap yet so I just treated the cuff like a generous gauge swatch.) Now I will start again going up two needle sizes. In the meantime, I have been enjoying a thorough review of your excellent jogless series (I could not initially remember which of your videos I had followed). So one question arises that I would like to ask about before my do-over. In one of your jogless tubular cast on videos you mentioned using a smaller needle size to combat flare of the tubular cast on, then going up a needle size for the ribbing. In the case of the Italian cast on here, there does not appear to be a tubular portion, so does that needle size advice apply here? Or could I cast on with the same needle size I would work the ribbing and the sock with (in other words, no tendency to flare for the Italian cast on?). In my too-snug sock, the twisted rib cuff was not the culprit. It was the cable portion (the shin face of the sock is a lovely Japanese lace pattern and the calf face of the sock is a deeply cabled pattern with twisted stitches and I think that is what caused the fabric to suck in)..So now that I have a fresh chance to proceed with best practices for best outcome, I would love to hear your thoughts about whether I would need to take cast on needle size, vs twisted rib needle size, into account if I would like everything to look maximally even and avoid flare if that tendency is part of the Italian cast on similar to the tubular cast on. Hope I explained this clearly enough. Thank you so much! --Andrea Miller
Hi Andrea, usually for a simple/non-tubular Italian c/o I use the same needle size as for the rest of the ribbing. I cast-on snugly and don’t get any flair. But everyone’s hands are different, so for some using a smaller size for c/o helps to avoid the flare. What I usually do if I am not sure about the needle sizes, I make a swatch of the ribbing separately and a swatch of the main pattern separately. Then place them side by side and compare how many stitches of each I have per centimetre. Then I will know if I need to increase or decrease the number of stitches when I change from the ribbing to the main pattern. Also, in my experience both twisted stitches and cables do "shrink" the fabric. I hope I understood correctly your question. :)
@@irinarevo perfectly understood and perfect response and guidance. I cannot express enough how inspired and delighted I am with your tips. They are turning my work into such a polished result I am prouder than ever to create and wear ❤️
I am really happy that I could help! :)
Wonderfully, clear example! Thank you.
Thank you so much for your feedback!
Thank you so much Irina for this wonderful video. So many of the patterns have k1, p1 ribbing instead of p1, k1 ribbing. Would you be able to create a version for that option? Or, should I just follow this and move the beginning of the round later?
Thank you, Joseph! You can follow the way it is done in the video and later move the beginning of the round by one stitch. The connection is a circle is invisible (I show it in the video), so 1 stitch more (or less) will not matter. :)
@@irinarevo Thank you so much! I just finished making your Northern Taurids hat pattern with my fingering yarn scraps held double, and everyone wanted this hat. I have confidence in my tubular cast on now, thanks to you. Sim Kellner.
Thank you so much for sharing, Sim! I am so glad!
so clear, thank you
I am very glad!
Thank you!
Pierie Od Cupalunu You are welcome!
En España no entendemos bastante inglés para seguí todas las indicaciones. Antes salía un traductor, pero ahora no. Por favor arreglen ésto. Gracias, gracias. Me gusta tu trabajo.
Hello Anamaria! There is a button in the right upper corner of the video that looks like a spiky circle. If you press on it you can choose the captions in another language (other than English). This auto-translate is a function provided by RUclips. I don’t know if it is available in Spanish. It’s up to RUclips to provide captions in other languages. Unfortunately I don’t speak Spanish. You can also change the viewing speed and just follow the steps in the video, the talk is not too important as the picture shows all the steps. :)
Nice clear video. I would like the pattern. Where would i find it?
Hi Lynda, here is a link to my video: ruclips.net/video/YuuAfABALCs/видео.html
Thanks! I have returned to this excellent video as I am now ready to start the cuff of the 2nd sock of my lace sock pair (the first sock was beautified by your tutelage!). Two questions: in the first worked row before joining in the round where you work into the back loop of each knit stitch, is it ONLY the knit stitches in that row that you work into the back of (excepting the final one which you work as a regular knit stich) or are the purls also worked through the back loop? It did not look like it but I wanted to be sure. Next, when you fix the jog, how do you recommend weaving in the end at that point? In the usual way where you would spiral the end through one of the legs of the stitches of the adjacent knit column (like with any ribbing) or is it done differently? I will actually be working twisted ribbing for my cuff so I was checking on your thoughts. (I finished my first lace sock 4 months ago and I have forgotten how I did it). Thanks again!
Thank you so much Andrea for your support!
In the first row (unlike the regular rows when the knit stitches are facing left) the knit stitches are facing right. Or in other words, the front side of the knit stitches is turned right. So to avoid twisting them, just for the first row, I have to insert the right needle tip from right to left. I would not call this through the back loop, it’s still through the front of the stitches. The purls are worked as usual. The last knit stitch I work from left to right to twist it to get a sharp edge and jogless joining later.
For the twisted rib I did the weaving by splitting first the yarn tail into two finer strands (unless it’s mohair or similar yarn that you can’t split). Then either spiral, but along two different columns - this will prevent the columns from becoming too thick. Or, there is another way - "outlining" the twisted rib stitches. You basically follow the twist and alternate weaving it on the right and wrong sides of your rib, but sideways (not up the column). I am actually getting a video ready about it. This other way is going to be invisible and especially great for the stripes when you can’t go up the column because the colours of the stripes won’t match the colour of the yarn tail and it will show.
After your question I felt compelled to finish the "twisted rib yarn tail" video. I might be able to upload it in a week or so. Stay tuned! :))
@@irinarevo Much better stated, Irina, I am now understanding from you that the mount of the created knit stitches for the first row is with the leading leg in front, so it makes sense that they would be worked in the first row alone by knitting into the leading leg (which looks like knitting through the back loop in practice) except for wishing to twist that very last knit stitch for the sharp corner, so that very stitch alone on the first row is knit into the trailing leg (which in practice look like knitting it the "ordinary" way left to right). And now I understand that the purl stitches created in the cast on already are mounted with the leading leg in front so they are worked as usual in the first row and in every further row during this cast on. I am excited about your upcoming video about weaving in ends in twisted rib. You are really making my knitting shine!
Thank you for your kind feedback! I am really happy that the videos help!
I was pointed here by you when I was inquiring about how to work this kind of cast on for twisted 1x1 rib - and now I understand why this is such an excellent choice for sock cuffs, not as bulky as a tubular cast on could be since it does not appear to be double knit, but it still has that beautiful "infinite" edge that looks like it rolls over from the outside to the inside. I am left now with just two questions: 1) How long of a tail do I need to leave with this cast on - it looks like it does consume the tail yarn like a long tail cast on would and 2) if the first row is worked flat and not joined in the round till after it is worked, is it only at the end, with the weaving in, that the gap area is seamed up? Is that the jog that you are fixing? And are the steps to fix the jog the same if the ribbing was worked twisted (because the twist does not start until after the cast on is joined in the round)?
Hi Andrea, I am very glad you like this method! 1) To c/o - wrap the yarn tail around the needle as many times as the number of stitches that you will c/o + 10cm, 2) because you start twisting the stitches from the second row where you connect in the round, the c/o and first row (the flat one) are exactly the same as in the video, and the jog fixing steps are also the same. You can do the jog fixing at any time - as soon as you worked 3-4 twisted rounds, or (you will just see it better, I think) after finished the rib, or after finished the sock 🧦
@@irinarevo I appreciate you so much - I am sitting here with yarn and 9" circ needle (with alternative DPNs) in hand to try this today. I am so excited to learn something new! I am a Western thrower but I can easily adapt your instructions for Continental for being a right hand yarn operator. I can't wait for the beauty about to unfold! ❤
Have fun! And may your socks turn out to be awesome!
BTW, I actually have a video for DPNs too: ITALIAN CAST ON for rib 1x1 with DPNs - NEW completely JOGLESS joining in the Round.
ruclips.net/video/eTjX_StgL0A/видео.html
@@irinarevo so I have succeeded beautifully to attain the Italian cast on (with zero tubular rounds) working a twisted rib for my sock cuff. But I am discovering that my twisted rib lacks stretch (which could just be how I am working it or maybe that is the nature of twisted rib). I chose this based on the sock designer's suggestion and do know I could simply make a different choice. If I wanted to retain the twisted rib, would a tubular cast on worked in twisted rib (stating the twists after completing the tubular rounds as normal) be more stretchy that the Italian cast on followed by twisting the knits and purling the purls as usual. All ribbing is 1 x 1 here. Still not ready to give up on twisted rib yet but I know I would like my cast on stretchier than it is turning out
beautiful knitting, thank you for explaining this, what pattern was that you knit for the hat? love to knit one thank you
I am so glad you liked it, Monique! The pattern is in this video: How to knit a HAT: "Northern Taurids" - an "inside out" unisex style ribbed hat. EASY, Step by step.
ruclips.net/video/YuuAfABALCs/видео.html
Awe thanks i appreciate you. Going to knit up this hat.
Happy knitting!
Wow that's impressive. How do you weave in the tail? Upwards along the ribbing?
Thank you! Yes, you are right. I also show it in this video: ruclips.net/video/GllWlcq_PpQ/видео.html
@@irinarevo Great thanks!
How do you determine how long the tail should be? I keep trying this method, but the tail is always too short... is there a strategy?
You can check out this video: How to measure length of yarn for casting on
ruclips.net/video/TPvYLoyaqt0/видео.html Wrap the yarn tail around the needle as many times as the # of cast-on stitches + 10cm. For a larger # I wrap half of the # of stitches, double up that length + 10cm.
Great video! Love it ! Sara.k
Thank you so much!!
hi, could you tell me how much stiches you need in the beginning? is it about 30?
Hi, the number of stitches depends on the pattern, the yarn thickness, needle size, gauge, etc. This video is only about the cast-on method. If you are asking about making the hat shown in this video, please check this video (all the step-by-step instructions about making this hat are there): ruclips.net/video/YuuAfABALCs/видео.html
Как раз к сезону....а закрывать иглой-
очень ценная инфа.
Я очень рада, что видео полезное.
Hello, I just want to know if I start the cast on with a purl stitch first and then knit stitch will it give me the same result? Or is it gonna be completely different?
Hello! This cast on starts with a purl stitch - no need to change anything.
@@irinarevo wait sorry i'm confused, at 1:05 you started with a knit stitch after creating the first knot right?
The first "knot" - it is a purl stitch (but it is made without a knot - by twisting the yarn around the needle). It is followed by a knit stitch. Then continue to alternate purl and knit stitches as you cast on. And the last stitch to cast on is a knit stitch. :)
@@irinarevo Ohhh ok so that first knot is considered a purl stitch. I was following your other video of the italian tubular cast on and realized that I was watching the wrong video cuz i was trying to knit a beanie, is it ok if I keep the cast on row from that video and keep knitting the beanie with this video?
Yes, of course! You can use any cast-on technique you like - only the cast on edge will look different. Tubular is very nice and the difference is minimal. It will not affect the rest of the hat. To me the regular Italian is better for a tight fitting turtleneck for example as it is very stretchy - to get the head through. For a beanie it is not critical - so either one is good.
Is this cast on really tubular? I watched your other video for the tubular 2x2 cast on and there was 2 setup rounds slipping every second stitch and then doing it again.
In the description under the video I specified that it is an Italian tubular cast on, but with "0" tubular rows. Tubular rows (or the double knitting) can be added after casting on, if desired, usually 2 or 4 rounds. Then continue the rib 1x1 - same as in the 2x2 video, but without swapping the stitches. Most of the time I just skip the tubular rounds and go directly to the rib - I just like the minimalistic look of the edge. :)
@@irinarevo If you add the rows of tubular stitches, when do you join in the round?
@@HollyTriedIt I show it here: ruclips.net/video/EYOnWwNuFRg/видео.html
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Do you size down for ribbing ever?
Check out here: Top Down PERFECT RIBBING - no gathering, no baggy stitches or flared edge (knitting tips and tricks)
ruclips.net/video/WStYDMl8XAc/видео.html
How does this work if the first stitch in my round is supposed to be a knit and not a purl? Is it the exact same?
You can later on move the beginning of the work by one stitch. The cast-on edge is completely jogless and it will not matter.
Knitting machine in Italy?
You have to count your stitches very carefully as you create them on the cast-on row, because they are difficult to count after the fact.
When you are casting on, you can place a very thin marker after every 10 stitches - it might help. These markers look like safety pins, very thin.
@@irinarevo - I did manage to finish, but that is a great idea! I have tons of them. I love the edge, thanks so much for the video. :)
Great!
1:09 - 1:24 repeat
6:44
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Thank you!
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