Is it possible that the film is pre-stretched so the final once-over with heat will relax that frozen stretch and put the entire surface under slight tension that helps lock it in place?
Good theory. I just found this video and technique after working with vinyl frog and realizing it’s pre stretched. But it does help wrap edges by just applying heat. Let’s say the gap between the front door and fenders. I can add heat to those and they wrap themselves in a way.
Hi Justin, great video as always. I'm going to be vinyl wrapping my motorbike tank which has some recessed areas, would you recommend taking the backing off and giving a good pre heat before placing on bike or just anchor first on the bike and then give some heat?
This method is mainly intended for mirrors and door knobs. Parts of the car with serious contours. A fender or a hood will not have such severe curvature therefore having to do the "zero stretch method" isn't necessary
@@LucasSi919 would it be a bad idea to zero stretch i.e. preheat an entire e.g. hood panel? so when you get to the edges you have more room to work a stretch over contours? Or maybe with a cold pre-stretch you instead end up laying an entire body panel in glass with some latent tension that is then activated by the final heating & so you get a better grip on the surface since the entire surface has shrunk to the car a bit? I kinda like the idea of cold pre-stretch for larger flatter surfaces, then start heating to relax when the glass area starts to approach sharp contours/edges. Does that make sense?
Amazing information.
(7:33) Justin said, "...left to right, vertical." 😆
(I'm sure he meant, 'horizontal'.)
Dude's a beast.
this is amazing, I like it. I am peruvian
Is it possible that the film is pre-stretched so the final once-over with heat will relax that frozen stretch and put the entire surface under slight tension that helps lock it in place?
Good theory. I just found this video and technique after working with vinyl frog and realizing it’s pre stretched. But it does help wrap edges by just applying heat. Let’s say the gap between the front door and fenders. I can add heat to those and they wrap themselves in a way.
Aren’t you just preheating? I’d like to see the temp at different points.
Hi Justin, great video as always. I'm going to be vinyl wrapping my motorbike tank which has some recessed areas, would you recommend taking the backing off and giving a good pre heat before placing on bike or just anchor first on the bike and then give some heat?
how do you 0 reset it, if, it like 1200mm - 1600mm Wide X 2m or 5m? Length. Or u just do it for small areas?
This method is mainly intended for mirrors and door knobs. Parts of the car with serious contours. A fender or a hood will not have such severe curvature therefore having to do the "zero stretch method" isn't necessary
@@LucasSi919 Thank you, And thank you for taking the time to respond =)
@@LucasSi919 would it be a bad idea to zero stretch i.e. preheat an entire e.g. hood panel? so when you get to the edges you have more room to work a stretch over contours? Or maybe with a cold pre-stretch you instead end up laying an entire body panel in glass with some latent tension that is then activated by the final heating & so you get a better grip on the surface since the entire surface has shrunk to the car a bit? I kinda like the idea of cold pre-stretch for larger flatter surfaces, then start heating to relax when the glass area starts to approach sharp contours/edges. Does that make sense?
BTW u the DUDE =)
Not why we call it the wrap matrix..simply it's wrap..it does what it's supposed to, WRAP. PUT THE PANEL INTO THE FILM, NOT WRAP THE PANEL. EZ
So you mean all these years the top manufacturers have been lying about their cast film properties. What a surprise 😂