@@aiTheVulture You might want to look up the definition of toxic ;) The correct word for metal snot glue is "dangerous" or "hazardous". Yes I know, just trolling here, sue me.
Jer, very nice!. I have one safety concern. Wire colors are coded on purpose. Please wrap the green wire from the switch with some red electrical tape or heat shrink to indicate that it is a hot wire. Green should never be used for anything except for grounding. The white wire should be wrapped with black for the same reason.
Agreed, very nice work. Additional considerations for future builds: When painting the enclosure, do a small paint mask for the head of the contactor mounting screw where all the ground wires tie together. You might have done this and I missed it. Commercially made metal enclosures often have an inward facing 10-24 stud or similar with no surface finish surrounding the stud for ~1/4” radius for tying grounds together and bonding the enclosure ATST. Ideally, avoid use of a momentary switch for the stop circuit. It's going to be more mechanically complex to realize with your hip bar switch operation scheme, but not impossible. When you smash the bar in, it should open the stop circuit and that circuit should remain open and not rely on the contactor successfully dropping out to keep it open. When you pull the bar forward it could close the stop circuit and then momentarily close the start circuit. These are just typical machine control schemes.
The easy access to the power switch is a very good idea for convenience and safety. The control scheme, with two switches, one normally open and one normally closed is a good basic control idea. I remember doing the same to control a turntable in a small broadcast booth in 1969 or 1970. The biggest criticism I can offer is that you should be consistent with wire color codes. Using the green (normally a ground) as your common wire to the switches is generally a no-no - but if you wrapped some black electrical tape around a short portion of it, you'd be indicating it is not a ground wire. Same thing when using a white wire for hot or a black wire for neutral. You'd use white tape in that last situation. Your videos are always entertaining, you present your topics very well, and I very much enjoy watching them. Thanks, Jer!
A few thoughts, it would be a lot safer if the contactor coil was 12, or 24 volts, then you wouldn't have the potential for a short in the micro switch wiring causing a fire, as well, remove the risk of a hot wire energizing the metal push bar ! Other option, you can add a ground jumper from push car to lathe base pan (don't rely on pivot bolts for ground, you'll be lubricating them, an oil isn't a good conductor;) 3D print a plastic cover, and add fuses for power legs going to micro switches. Two last items Add a ground wire to switched outlet, the two screws holding it in are not a code approved grounding method And use a star washer under head bolt that's holding contactor to box, and a nylock nut, so you're guaranteed a solid ground years from now
Would you consider adding a secondary start-switch in series with the microswitch at 12:18 so that you cannot inadvertently switch-on the lathe (say - if your apron gets caught on the switch-rail, or if you have pesky visitors). The secondary (momentary) switch would be placed far away from the rail, of course, and switching on would become a two-handed affair.
This could be accomplished with a simple ON/OFF switch on the power cord to disconnect power to the whole thing without unplugging. The switch/outlet combo device might actually be able to be rewired to do this, or more simply, a handy box with a single switch could be added beside the micro-switch box in front.
@@kennethelwell8574 an on/off switch on the power cord would run the danger of a lazy or inattentive operator forgetting to or neglecting to switch it off every single time the lathe is stopped. and would be very inconvenient to do so. a momentary switch in series with the main switch to require two hands to power on would be both convenient and safe
A foot operated pedal would be an easy addition and used in industry. They have two levels of pressure, first level is normal operating procedure and bottoming it out breaks the circuit as a failsafe
@@kennethelwell8574 The problem with on/off switches is that they tend to be left in the on-position :) For the two-handed safety, the switch must be of the 'momentary' type.
Nice project! And nice south bend. My grandpa left me the exact one when he past. I bought your 2x72” grinder plans. That project turned out perfect! An brings a whole new level of quality to other projects now thanks again!
I love your videos Jer. Because you are not an electrician, here is an electrical tip for your consideration. Placing the ground wire on the contactor nut / bolt is not recommended, as it could be loosened over time, or during fault-finding etc. Better to relocate it to a unique place. A stud is always the preferred fixing for earthing purposes. This simple modification could be carried out when you modify the contactor enclosure for reversing the motor or when you modify it for variable speed etc in the future. I already see comments about the choice of wire colours, those issues can also be easily addressed in the future updates with coloured sleeves or tape. You know what these wires are today, but in decades you or the next owner will find it much safer and much easier to conduct fault-finding with the correct colour coding on wiring. Keep up the great content Jer.
Like the emergency stop feature and the NVR feature. I'd personally be tempted to add a lock-off switch (even just an SPST switch in the 'Stop' line) as I can see if being possible to knock it on as you're leaning over it. It shouldn't but all that's got to happen is your belt catches on the switch and it could be pulled - especially with such a short throw. Paranoid? Perhaps, but cheap insurance. Interesting way of doing it though; I'd never have thought microswitches for that problem...and that's not a criticism in case it comes across that way!
Maybe you already did it when I wasn't looking. But the metal lid on the box containing the micro switches needs to be grounded, or swapped for a non-conductive material. Love your work. 🙂
I can see a whole lot of this build is to allow for oil to flow into the pan. Cables are being routed over the table to avoid holes in the pan. This is a 9" lathe built around 1950, which doesn’t hit speeds you’d require coolant or make so many chips you’d have tons of oil. But it’s beautiful and who cares!
"...so that you can see my design process." Yep, always my favourite part of these videos! The thought and attention to detail you put into this stuff is always a joy to watch.
Good video! I'm not an electrician either. I am an electrical engineer but mostly I do electronics not electrician type stuff. I think the only violations were related to using green insulation wire for something other than ground, and using white for something other than neutral. Overall I feel like it was a pretty good installation. Way better than most DIYers. Maybe some of the wire termination and combining schemes are not technically allowed either (I'm not sure).
Your ideas, build quality and solutions are on such a high level, I sometimes ask myself how you are going to top that in the next Video and you do! Again and again! Your Channel is easily one of the Best in that Genre!
I love your videos, but a small critique is in order I think. You have a 3D printer available, which you used to make your switch box, but then you went and made the cover out of metal. There's 120VAC running through that, and having a metal cover with the exposed wires (crimp connectors) is an accident waiting to happen. I'd like to see you 3D print a cover for it to reduce that risk. Otherwise, great job. Love the whole setup.
Hiya Jer, Great video; thank you so much for perfectly demonstrating your build. I was an electrician in the UK for many years, and I have a few minor points. As we use 230v rather than 120v, they may not equate. The 1st point is non-voltage related. The crimp pliers you use, I used the same for many trouble-free years, but then the ratchet style was designed. These always apply the correct pressure to your crimp with much less hand pressure making for a better joint. I tried a pull-apart test using both pliers and the ratchet type won very easily. Worth noting. Where you have cut down the conductors to fit two wires into one connector? I would have used a yellow insulated crimp connector, which allows for a greater conductor size. Even with mA, it is worth developing correct habits. I can still hear my instructor telling us that over and over during my five-year apprenticeship. The 2nd point, which may be voltage related, is we were never allowed to have bare contacts against flammable materials, as in your contactor and the MDF. Something like mica had to be sandwiched between the two. This was made compulsory in the 80s. Even with the air gap you have, there is nothing non-inflammable between the two. The mechanical setup was very impressive; I can see where your head is at. Stay safe, Steve...
Interesting ... nice detail work and great explanations! It does seem that if you are, say, changing tools or in the process of mounting a workpiece in the chuck, and reach down into a drawer to grab a wrench or chuck key or shim, that you run the risk of clipping the horizontal switch on the upstroke from the drawer, and accidentally powering things up in an unsafe configuration. Just imagining; you will have a better feel for how it will work in practice. Cheers, John
Love the planning and the detail. It’s kinda like a chess game. You have to think several moves ahead on manufacturing and assembly or you’ll find yourself in a pickle….
You really should have clearly marked the green wire that isn't a ground wire. Sliding a colored length of shrink wrap would have been easy and much safer.
The only thing I'd change is some proper cord grip/strain relief. And circuit protection! You're probably going to be plugging that into a 20 amp outlet. If something goes wrong, it will melt, smoke and catch fire long before the breaker trips.
Really nice work Jer! There are a lot of useful comments about controls and wiring below so I won't add anything to them, Here's a couple of things that might help with future wiring, I have found Ratcheting Wire Crimpers work very well and look out for 'piggyback spade connectors' . Thanks for posting all your videos they make me want to do better
I was scrolling through the comments to see if someone else had mentioned it. For thread mounted spindles, any reverse operations can cause the chuck to come off at operating speed and therefore common practice is no reverse operations with this type of chuck. Do you know what type of chuck this is? Roman.
Great work Jer! Love electromechanical projects! I'd love more details on that lathe, from the few frames I saw it appears to have an "Atlas Machinery Canada" plate on it. That's a very well known machinery shop here in Toronto. Would love a walk through of that beast!
Dang Jer i thought this switch video was going be kinda dull but man your ability to get all this working and be so clean is amazing. Great Job and another great video -- and you said you aren't an electrician
Hi, Jer.. I wonder, why you did not weld a small tube into / trough the pan...right next to the motor... So you could thread the motor cable right through the table top.. Would be much neater... I think it is more likely for the cable to catch on something, the way you routed it... But anyway... The relais circuit fulfills the KISS principle... I tend to overcomplicate all of my homemade machines.. xD Greets from Germany..
Excellent idea for switching the motor! I would feel a lot safer if the microswitches would run only on 12V or 24V. At least you provide proper grounding. 👍
@@Jer_Schmidt I totally understand your point. You could get away without buying a new contactor if you buy two simple 12V relays. A 12V transformer you can find from any old device like a router. The microswitches would switch 12V to the relays and the relays then would switch power to the contactor. Btw: it's not my goal to nag around with safety issues. My main message is that I like your idea and how you solved the different problems to achieve it. Keep up your good work and creativity. I hope for more videos to come. 😉
Brilliant. You mentioned maybe using a VFD in the future, I've been wanting to put one on my drill press for a while so I don't have to move belts, but I'm not well versed in electronics! Would you ever consider a video walking through that whole process?
That could be a good quick video sometime. Especially since most people building my belt grinder need this info. I'm far from an expert though. Will consider it.
I love this. Great idea. If one wanted some addition safety in terms of the chuck key, you could use some sort of “key” based switch to cut power and attach that to the Chuck key. Then to use the chuck key you have to remove the power key, hence cutting power and preventing any restart (as the micro switches would be disabled) and vice versa.
The switch seems quite sensitive. Great for turning off, but are you not concerned about accidentally turning on? Brilliant design and video in any case :)
If it seems sensitive, that’s coming across wrong on video - it is quite hard to activate. If anything I’d want to make it easier to pull/push. Thanks!
Very nice Jer. I've been following you (as sub'd) since doing all that work developing the ultimate belt sander. You must have exhausted your thoughts on that subject and now your spending time and brain cells working on an antic lathe. Very interesting concept for dealing with the on and off of the power while being as versatile as you desire. I love following your thought processes as you develop the final product. Your workmanship is SPOT-ON! What will you be using the lathe for now?
Thank you! I am still working on some more niche belt grinder attachments in the background, but yeah I've mostly moved on from that project. The lathe is just for general use, I don't have anything specific in mind. I've had it for over a decade and it's just handy here and there. I will be using it on my upcoming cargo bike build though.
After having a clothes meets lead screw experience, I wired in a N.O. foot switch into my lathe and drill press and rigged the switches with latching relay so I can't start it without having my foot on the switch, and I can't just start it by stepping on the switch. Very mild inconvenience for big improvement in safety.
Might I recommend installing a locking stop station in series with your NC (stop) microswitch and placing it in a visible location. I'm only worried about accidental starting of the motor. Say you're leaning over the lathe and your belt gets caught on the paddle, you could easily start the machine and put yourself in harms way. A locking stop station would allow you to have a way to lock out the motor quickly without unplugging the unit. It would also allow for a layperson to stop the machine in an emergency without needing to be taught where the stop mechanism is.
I'd have wired the micro-switches in 24V DC, but that would imply buying a different contactor (or build your open/close around a 24 DC relay and have that relay command the contactor) and a 24V power supply. But that would be more secure. Using a relay before the contactor, you could even use a 5V DC relay, and have all your low voltage circuit runnig with 5V DC and that should become compatible with GPIO on a SBC computer. Oh, and reading the other comments, you could use different wire gauge for the switches if you are only switching 24V. like a length of telephone cable, and no one would be complaining about you misusing the colour scheme :) But nice work.
As usually, your design and execution is impressive!! Suggestion-- it has been my experience that Turing on a light with the motor (on a lathe or saw or drill press) is sub-optimal. I't nice to have that light remain on, even when the motor is off so you can see what you're doing while doing setup, changing bit, etc.
The thing I love about metalwork most is the glue dries so quickly!
If only that metal glue wasn't so toxic to skin and cloth.
@@aiTheVulture You might want to look up the definition of toxic ;)
The correct word for metal snot glue is "dangerous" or "hazardous". Yes I know, just trolling here, sue me.
Jer, very nice!. I have one safety concern. Wire colors are coded on purpose. Please wrap the green wire from the switch with some red electrical tape or heat shrink to indicate that it is a hot wire. Green should never be used for anything except for grounding. The white wire should be wrapped with black for the same reason.
Agreed, very nice work. Additional considerations for future builds:
When painting the enclosure, do a small paint mask for the head of the contactor mounting screw where all the ground wires tie together. You might have done this and I missed it. Commercially made metal enclosures often have an inward facing 10-24 stud or similar with no surface finish surrounding the stud for ~1/4” radius for tying grounds together and bonding the enclosure ATST.
Ideally, avoid use of a momentary switch for the stop circuit. It's going to be more mechanically complex to realize with your hip bar switch operation scheme, but not impossible.
When you smash the bar in, it should open the stop circuit and that circuit should remain open and not rely on the contactor successfully dropping out to keep it open.
When you pull the bar forward it could close the stop circuit and then momentarily close the start circuit. These are just typical machine control schemes.
Great work! Your videos are so well structured and thought out. So glad you are back on RUclips!
I'm in awe of your creativity, troubleshooting, craftsmanship and precision. Amazing work!
The easy access to the power switch is a very good idea for convenience and safety. The control scheme, with two switches, one normally open and one normally closed is a good basic control idea. I remember doing the same to control a turntable in a small broadcast booth in 1969 or 1970. The biggest criticism I can offer is that you should be consistent with wire color codes. Using the green (normally a ground) as your common wire to the switches is generally a no-no - but if you wrapped some black electrical tape around a short portion of it, you'd be indicating it is not a ground wire. Same thing when using a white wire for hot or a black wire for neutral. You'd use white tape in that last situation.
Your videos are always entertaining, you present your topics very well, and I very much enjoy watching them. Thanks, Jer!
it's nice to see you putting stuff out on a regular basis again. hope everything is going well for you buddy.
A few thoughts, it would be a lot safer if the contactor coil was 12, or 24 volts, then you wouldn't have the potential for a short in the micro switch wiring causing a fire, as well, remove the risk of a hot wire energizing the metal push bar !
Other option, you can add a ground jumper from push car to lathe base pan (don't rely on pivot bolts for ground, you'll be lubricating them, an oil isn't a good conductor;)
3D print a plastic cover, and add fuses for power legs going to micro switches.
Two last items
Add a ground wire to switched outlet, the two screws holding it in are not a code approved grounding method
And use a star washer under head bolt that's holding contactor to box, and a nylock nut, so you're guaranteed a solid ground years from now
Would you consider adding a secondary start-switch in series with the microswitch at 12:18 so that you cannot inadvertently switch-on the lathe (say - if your apron gets caught on the switch-rail, or if you have pesky visitors). The secondary (momentary) switch would be placed far away from the rail, of course, and switching on would become a two-handed affair.
This could be accomplished with a simple ON/OFF switch on the power cord to disconnect power to the whole thing without unplugging. The switch/outlet combo device might actually be able to be rewired to do this, or more simply, a handy box with a single switch could be added beside the micro-switch box in front.
@@kennethelwell8574 an on/off switch on the power cord would run the danger of a lazy or inattentive operator forgetting to or neglecting to switch it off every single time the lathe is stopped. and would be very inconvenient to do so. a momentary switch in series with the main switch to require two hands to power on would be both convenient and safe
A foot operated pedal would be an easy addition and used in industry. They have two levels of pressure, first level is normal operating procedure and bottoming it out breaks the circuit as a failsafe
@@kennethelwell8574 The problem with on/off switches is that they tend to be left in the on-position :) For the two-handed safety, the switch must be of the 'momentary' type.
@@AdityaMehendale two handed solution is the way to go.
Please please please continue making these amazingly well thought out tools and videos. You're one of the smartest out there.
Nice project! And nice south bend. My grandpa left me the exact one when he past. I bought your 2x72” grinder plans. That project turned out perfect! An brings a whole new level of quality to other projects now thanks again!
I never do any of the electrical stuff cuz I don't want to fry my brain but I love watching this video just the same
I love your videos Jer. Because you are not an electrician, here is an electrical tip for your consideration. Placing the ground wire on the contactor nut / bolt is not recommended, as it could be loosened over time, or during fault-finding etc. Better to relocate it to a unique place. A stud is always the preferred fixing for earthing purposes. This simple modification could be carried out when you modify the contactor enclosure for reversing the motor or when you modify it for variable speed etc in the future. I already see comments about the choice of wire colours, those issues can also be easily addressed in the future updates with coloured sleeves or tape. You know what these wires are today, but in decades you or the next owner will find it much safer and much easier to conduct fault-finding with the correct colour coding on wiring. Keep up the great content Jer.
Your problem solving skills and ingenuity is breath taking dude, keep up the good work.
Nice job. No left thread chasing for you:-0)
Like the emergency stop feature and the NVR feature. I'd personally be tempted to add a lock-off switch (even just an SPST switch in the 'Stop' line) as I can see if being possible to knock it on as you're leaning over it. It shouldn't but all that's got to happen is your belt catches on the switch and it could be pulled - especially with such a short throw. Paranoid? Perhaps, but cheap insurance.
Interesting way of doing it though; I'd never have thought microswitches for that problem...and that's not a criticism in case it comes across that way!
Maybe you already did it when I wasn't looking. But the metal lid on the box containing the micro switches needs to be grounded, or swapped for a non-conductive material.
Love your work. 🙂
I can see a whole lot of this build is to allow for oil to flow into the pan. Cables are being routed over the table to avoid holes in the pan. This is a 9" lathe built around 1950, which doesn’t hit speeds you’d require coolant or make so many chips you’d have tons of oil. But it’s beautiful and who cares!
Great video as always. 😀😀
Beautiful machine brother. I have the same exact Lathe. I have the Furnas forard and reverse switch though. Lol and of course the reverse doesn't work
as a machinist, i can not stress it enough you need to add guards over the belts!!! you will become ground beef!! But looks great
AYO!!!! was bored, now I got somethin worth watching 😁
Same!!!
Brilliant! Beautiful work!
"...so that you can see my design process." Yep, always my favourite part of these videos! The thought and attention to detail you put into this stuff is always a joy to watch.
Up to your usual high standards, Jer. Terrific video... I always learn something from you.
I was wondering how you were going to make a video even out a making a switch. Now I feel dumb.
Good video! I'm not an electrician either. I am an electrical engineer but mostly I do electronics not electrician type stuff. I think the only violations were related to using green insulation wire for something other than ground, and using white for something other than neutral. Overall I feel like it was a pretty good installation. Way better than most DIYers. Maybe some of the wire termination and combining schemes are not technically allowed either (I'm not sure).
Clicked like before watching. Was not disappointed.
Hey Jer, stunning video as always. your switch is very convinient to use. S+thanks for sharing 🥳
Legend thanks Jer. It's a beautiful switch
Al's Machinery... looks factory
I really hope you get into more metal projects!!
Very nice design. And it works perfectly!
Well done lad! Very nice design and layout!!
It's a "Schütz-Selbsthaltumg" circuit ... remembering things from my apprenticeship ;-)
Nice design and execution, thanks for the great video.
Your ideas, build quality and solutions are on such a high level, I sometimes ask myself how you are going to top that in the next Video and you do! Again and again!
Your Channel is easily one of the Best in that Genre!
You are amazing. Good job. Well done.
Excellent as usual.
This is clever. Thanks for sharing.
I really like the old lathe. Very classy. ✌
I love your videos, but a small critique is in order I think. You have a 3D printer available, which you used to make your switch box, but then you went and made the cover out of metal. There's 120VAC running through that, and having a metal cover with the exposed wires (crimp connectors) is an accident waiting to happen. I'd like to see you 3D print a cover for it to reduce that risk.
Otherwise, great job. Love the whole setup.
Hiya Jer,
Great video; thank you so much for perfectly demonstrating your build.
I was an electrician in the UK for many years, and I have a few minor points. As we use 230v rather than 120v, they may not equate. The 1st point is non-voltage related. The crimp pliers you use, I used the same for many trouble-free years, but then the ratchet style was designed. These always apply the correct pressure to your crimp with much less hand pressure making for a better joint. I tried a pull-apart test using both pliers and the ratchet type won very easily. Worth noting. Where you have cut down the conductors to fit two wires into one connector? I would have used a yellow insulated crimp connector, which allows for a greater conductor size. Even with mA, it is worth developing correct habits. I can still hear my instructor telling us that over and over during my five-year apprenticeship.
The 2nd point, which may be voltage related, is we were never allowed to have bare contacts against flammable materials, as in your contactor and the MDF. Something like mica had to be sandwiched between the two. This was made compulsory in the 80s. Even with the air gap you have, there is nothing non-inflammable between the two.
The mechanical setup was very impressive; I can see where your head is at.
Stay safe, Steve...
For reverse you can probably collaborate with Mathias Wandel. He has a very good understanding of electronics and moving stuff 😊
Practical E-stop Design by Jer Schmidt
Now slower, and with more bass!
(Not suitable for consumption by those allergic to stuffed squid)
Great job. Thanks for the videl keep on keeping on.
New project idea. A Jer Schmidt designed and built metal brake. AAA quality!!
Interesting ... nice detail work and great explanations! It does seem that if you are, say, changing tools or in the process of mounting a workpiece in the chuck, and reach down into a drawer to grab a wrench or chuck key or shim, that you run the risk of clipping the horizontal switch on the upstroke from the drawer, and accidentally powering things up in an unsafe configuration. Just imagining; you will have a better feel for how it will work in practice. Cheers, John
Love the planning and the detail. It’s kinda like a chess game. You have to think several moves ahead on manufacturing and assembly or you’ll find yourself in a pickle….
This WAS helpful. This summer is when I get the South Bend hooked up and running! Thanks, Jer!
You really should have clearly marked the green wire that isn't a ground wire. Sliding a colored length of shrink wrap would have been easy and much safer.
The only thing I'd change is some proper cord grip/strain relief.
And circuit protection! You're probably going to be plugging that into a 20 amp outlet. If something goes wrong, it will melt, smoke and catch fire long before the breaker trips.
Really nice work Jer! There are a lot of useful comments about controls and wiring below so I won't add anything to them,
Here's a couple of things that might help with future wiring, I have found Ratcheting Wire Crimpers work very well and look out for 'piggyback spade connectors' .
Thanks for posting all your videos they make me want to do better
Excellent! Thank you
Awesome work jer and practical too.
Great video buddy 👍🏽 👏 👌
needs a 5 second timer to delay start up. this will help to prevent accidental start up.
Nice work, good concept! Although starwashers on your ground terminals would be nice
Looks like that chuck is threaded onto the spindle. If that is the case reverse is of limited use, can even lead to some excitement.
I was scrolling through the comments to see if someone else had mentioned it. For thread mounted spindles, any reverse operations can cause the chuck to come off at operating speed and therefore common practice is no reverse operations with this type of chuck. Do you know what type of chuck this is? Roman.
I'm LOVING that you are back, Jer! Thanks for the videos!
Designed at Stand-for university. Good vibes, don't damp them.
matthias aint got nothing on you. And let me tell you thats as good a compliment as I can give a youtuber.
Thank you! I still prefer watching his videos to mine though ;-)
Great video and project!
Love it ,well thought out .
Great work Jer! Love electromechanical projects! I'd love more details on that lathe, from the few frames I saw it appears to have an "Atlas Machinery Canada" plate on it. That's a very well known machinery shop here in Toronto. Would love a walk through of that beast!
Glad to see you back :) Following you for a long time, love your stuff
Dang Jer i thought this switch video was going be kinda dull but man your ability to get all this working and be so clean is amazing. Great Job and another great video -- and you said you aren't an electrician
Hi, Jer.. I wonder, why you did not weld a small tube into / trough the pan...right next to the motor... So you could thread the motor cable right through the table top.. Would be much neater... I think it is more likely for the cable to catch on something, the way you routed it... But anyway... The relais circuit fulfills the KISS principle... I tend to overcomplicate all of my homemade machines.. xD Greets from Germany..
That would have been a good idea. Now I'm sad I didn't think of that because it would have been much neater. Thanks!
Love it! Seems super duper safe, robust and functional! Thanks for sharing! :)
FWIW the stock control arm reverse switch I have on SB 10 is quite convenient.
What a great idea. I am going to do this with my lathe. Thanks for dumbing it down enough that even I could work it out 😁
Very nice Jer as always .... Thank You Kindly for sharing
peace
Very satisfying!
Another great video my friend. Everything you create is impressive and inspirational as hell!
Excellent idea for switching the motor! I would feel a lot safer if the microswitches would run only on 12V or 24V. At least you provide proper grounding. 👍
I’d prefer too, but I’d have to buy a different contactor and use a step-down transformer. Not worth it to me. Thanks!
@@Jer_Schmidt I totally understand your point. You could get away without buying a new contactor if you buy two simple 12V relays. A 12V transformer you can find from any old device like a router. The microswitches would switch 12V to the relays and the relays then would switch power to the contactor.
Btw: it's not my goal to nag around with safety issues. My main message is that I like your idea and how you solved the different problems to achieve it. Keep up your good work and creativity. I hope for more videos to come. 😉
Well thought out! 👍👍👍👍🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🙏🙏🙏🙏
Brilliant. You mentioned maybe using a VFD in the future, I've been wanting to put one on my drill press for a while so I don't have to move belts, but I'm not well versed in electronics! Would you ever consider a video walking through that whole process?
That could be a good quick video sometime. Especially since most people building my belt grinder need this info. I'm far from an expert though. Will consider it.
@@Jer_Schmidt Thanks Jer, I appreciate you
Now it just needs a bold label etched into it. Nice work.
I love this. Great idea.
If one wanted some addition safety in terms of the chuck key, you could use some sort of “key” based switch to cut power and attach that to the Chuck key. Then to use the chuck key you have to remove the power key, hence cutting power and preventing any restart (as the micro switches would be disabled) and vice versa.
Very nice work!
Watching you work is like music for my eyes! ❤
Another great video. The power switch bar is a well thought out and engineered piece of work. Thanks for the video
The switch seems quite sensitive. Great for turning off, but are you not concerned about accidentally turning on?
Brilliant design and video in any case :)
If it seems sensitive, that’s coming across wrong on video - it is quite hard to activate. If anything I’d want to make it easier to pull/push. Thanks!
Can confirm, it's harder to switch on than I expected! !
Great looking and working setup Jer, thanks for sharing it with us!
Very cool, Jer!
Your “problem solving skills” are outstanding, well done!
Your problem solving and solutioning skills are amazing. Well done!!
You have such a brilliant mind Jer!
Great solution. This type of safety switch should be common more tools. We shared this video on our homemade tools forum this week 😎
Is it a public forum?
Super nice lathe and build. Thanks for sharing.
Great job!
Very NICE!!!
very tidy.
Jer, very nice!
Very nice Jer. I've been following you (as sub'd) since doing all that work developing the ultimate belt sander. You must have exhausted your thoughts on that subject and now your spending time and brain cells working on an antic lathe. Very interesting concept for dealing with the on and off of the power while being as versatile as you desire. I love following your thought processes as you develop the final product. Your workmanship is SPOT-ON! What will you be using the lathe for now?
Thank you! I am still working on some more niche belt grinder attachments in the background, but yeah I've mostly moved on from that project. The lathe is just for general use, I don't have anything specific in mind. I've had it for over a decade and it's just handy here and there. I will be using it on my upcoming cargo bike build though.
After having a clothes meets lead screw experience, I wired in a N.O. foot switch into my lathe and drill press and rigged the switches with latching relay so I can't start it without having my foot on the switch, and I can't just start it by stepping on the switch. Very mild inconvenience for big improvement in safety.
Interesting idea, I like that! Thanks!
I always enjoy seeing what you are up to. Always interesting and well done.
Might I recommend installing a locking stop station in series with your NC (stop) microswitch and placing it in a visible location. I'm only worried about accidental starting of the motor. Say you're leaning over the lathe and your belt gets caught on the paddle, you could easily start the machine and put yourself in harms way. A locking stop station would allow you to have a way to lock out the motor quickly without unplugging the unit. It would also allow for a layperson to stop the machine in an emergency without needing to be taught where the stop mechanism is.
YES!
Beautiful set up . We'll done .
I'd have wired the micro-switches in 24V DC, but that would imply buying a different contactor (or build your open/close around a 24 DC relay and have that relay command the contactor) and a 24V power supply. But that would be more secure.
Using a relay before the contactor, you could even use a 5V DC relay, and have all your low voltage circuit runnig with 5V DC and that should become compatible with GPIO on a SBC computer.
Oh, and reading the other comments, you could use different wire gauge for the switches if you are only switching 24V. like a length of telephone cable, and no one would be complaining about you misusing the colour scheme :)
But nice work.
I'm impressed with your design skills
As usually, your design and execution is impressive!!
Suggestion-- it has been my experience that Turing on a light with the motor (on a lathe or saw or drill press) is sub-optimal. I't nice to have that light remain on, even when the motor is off so you can see what you're doing while doing setup, changing bit, etc.